Build a Rolex 1680 replica based on a milk case

[matzemedia]

I'm going to build a 1680 Rolex replica based on the milk case. In this thread I like to document the progress of the building with my up and downs. Hopefully this helps some of you with their similar project and me if I struggle at any point.


Disclaimer: I'm not a professional watch builder. I have some experience with other custom project - but still learning.

So, starting with the current part list:

• Case: milk for 5513 / 1680 Rolex
• Insert & Bezel: milk
• Movement: VS 3135
• Dial: 1680 red submarine from Cartel (MK?)
• Crown: Cartel
• Hands: 16610 Hands for 3135 movement from WHO
• Datedisc: Inlay with open 6 & 9 from ebay
• Crystal: aftermarket 1680 plexi from flume (germany)

Apart from the hands, everything arrived. So far, I can start already with the build.

Challenges in the project will probably be the plexiglass. It is far too loose and does not clamp. It will also be exciting to see how well I can fit the 3135 movement into the case.


OK I'am starting with some straightforward steps:

• fitting the dial feet
• gluing the datedisc

 

[matzemedia]

Fitting the dial feet
My cartel dial is made for an 2836 movement. So the dial feet are not at the correct position for the 3135 movement. 2836 movements have their feet at minute 12 & 42, the 3135 at minute 12 & 36. There for I use some standard dial feet, put them in the movement and use a drop of glue to fit them at my dial.

Gluing the Datedisc
It is hard to find 3135 datedisc with open 6&9. My way to get a datedisc with the old school look is to glue a datedisc over the existing. I use a glue that needs at least 5 minutes drying time. So I have enough time to align the datedisc. The overlay is not clamped by the movement - it lays over the clamp.

 

[matzemedia]

Mounting the 3135 movement
After reading all the good response to the VS 3135 movement, I decided to use it for this build. I ordered it at AliExpress. The milk case is build to fit a gen 157x movement or a 2836 with movement ring. I have had good experience with a 1675 milk build in conjunction with a 3186 movement. So decided to go the same way with the 3135 movement. The case diameter, close to the dial, is too small to fit the 3135. To change this, I have to increase the diameter. I used a lathe and changed some diameters at the case. I think you can also use a dremel. At the end, it was a trial and error process till it fits. But it was not much to remove - I could leave it without shaving and the dial would have a small space to the ring. You can see it at the picture.

Furthermore, the winding stem is not exactly at the position for the crown. As closer the dial sits into to movement (in direction of the crystal) the stem is in the middle.

The original case mount doesn't work with the 3135 movement. The high of the screws are not matching the case. So I will use standard movement clamps.

Next step will be mounting the crystal. And this is not easy with the milk case. But we will see - I've got a nice idea.

 

[p0pperini]

Really enjoying this. Bravo on the sterling work you've done to this point. Can't wait to see the finished article.

 

[tripdog]

Seems such a waste to use a Cartel dial in a build like this. Pay for the shipping and I'll send you a much better dial than that - no charge, just pay for shipping.

 

[matzemedia]

Seems such a waste to use a Cartel dial in a build like this. Pay for the shipping and I'll send you a much better dial than that - no charge, just pay for shipping.

What a great offer! Thanks! I send you a PM and will compare both dials.

 

[matzemedia]

Mounting the crystal
This is a nightmare. Some of you may know, that I cracked more than 5 crystals at my 1675 build. I have seen some users who have glued the crystal in a pinch. I would like to avoid this.

The crystal at a gen 1680 case fits tight. I got two different crystals from two different manufacturer. Both with the size 303.430 (cyclop 127). The inner diameter of the crystal is bigger than the outer diameter of the milk case and the bezel ring is bigger than the crystal. This won't clamp! So I machined a small 0,3 mm spacer ring and glued it at the case. Now the outer diameter of the case is 28,3mm and I can press the crystal as it should. Pressing the crystal also increases the outer diameter of the crystal and the bezel ring can be clamped.


Gluing the spacer ring


After cutting the protruding spacer


Final the pressed insert ring



I really would like to know the outer diameter of a gen 1680 movement. Is the milk case wrong or are the aftermarket crystals all in wrong size?

I'am really happy with this solution.

 

[matzemedia]

During the work I built a new press tool for crystal and bezel ring. In the past, I used a simple press tool with screw thread. This has had a lot of lateral play and you could not build up pressure.
Here you can see how I abuse my pillar drill. The plastic blocks from my old press tool can be easily clamped.
It works like a charm!

 

[p0pperini]

During the work I built a new press tool for crystal and bezel ring. In the past, I used a simple press tool with screw thread. This has had a lot of lateral play and you could not build up pressure.
Here you can see how I abuse my pillar drill. The plastic blocks from my old press tool can be easily clamped.
It works like a charm!

That, sir, is rather brilliant. Bravo!

 

[Slowman4130]

I really would like to know the outer diameter of a gen 1680 movement. Is the milk case wrong or are the aftermarket crystals all in wrong size?

I've used the clark brand crystals 25-127 and they fit the JK 1680 case perfect. I tried a different brand and had the same issue as you, crystal was too big. In my research, it seemed some people were selling 1675 and 1680 crystals as the same, but I believe the 1675 crystal was slightly larger.

 

[matzemedia]

1. diagnosis of the pointer
Instead of the classic 1680 hands from Rolex or the 2836 hands, I had to choose hands with the appropriate hole diameters for the 3135 movement, of course. I decided to use hands from the 16610 series. They are at 1st look very similar to the 1680 hands and fit on the 3135 movement. My hands are from WHO and here's the first impression. On the right, in beige, the 1680 hands from Cartel (for 2836 movement) for comparison - unfortunately, I don't have gen hands.
Except for the second hand, everything is in tolerance. The lengths and widths are correct for me. The second hand unfortunately varies a bit. Unfortunately, the hole diameter does not fit (2836 = 0.25mm, 3135 = 0.18mm).

In comparison, here is a second hand from a 116610 series. The size is closer to the cartel 1680. Currently I have the 116610 second hand only in gold. Can I remove the gold color of the second hand and polish it?

As soon as the new dial of tripdog is arriving I will use coffee and blood to relume the hands.

 

[kilowattore]

As soon as the new dial of tripdog is arriving I will use coffee and blood to relume the hands.

are you using blood???

Hands are made of brass, sanding the gold plating will not result In a steel hand.

 

[matzemedia]

are you using blood???

No just kidding! ;-) Here you can read my colour experiments - and bloody red plays a part!


relume colour experiments
This is my 3rd attempt to relume pointers. They look good except for the matching colour. That's why I wanted to do some tests before.

I use the following materials:

• Luminous powder (green)
• watercolour in yellow, red and green
• Strong espresso
• Uhu glue

experiment setup


Findings:
It is not easy to get the same colour as on the dial. The first attempt (top left) with only espresso was already one of the best. The best result was achieved with a mixture of the colours yellow, red and green and espresso (bottom right).



In the picture you can see: the more watercolour is mixed in, the lower the luminosity.

 

[matzemedia]

Today I received the dial from tripdog . What a fast shipment. Thank you very much!
I do not know a lot about dials - especially about the Version of a dial (Mark x). There is a german spelling page where someone explains the different versions. Just a short translation:

• There are 6 different Versions of a red sub
• A distinction is also made between dials that show the metres first in the lower section under the red "Submariner" lettering (Marks I to III) and those that show the depth in feet first (Marks IV to VI).
• There are also variants with "open sixes" (Mark II to V) and "closed sixes" (Mark I and VI) in the depth indication.

So, as I understand the the left (cartel) is representing a Mark V and the right a Mark VI.

I already added the feeds at the new dial:

 

[freebalkany]

Nice, this is all looking very good!

 

[wubsub]

trips dial is a huge upgrade! nice one

 

[matzemedia]

reluming hands
The next step is to relume the hands. As you can see, the hands I've bought are silver and white. The white doesn't match the color of the dial, and I have to mix the luminous compound. I decided to use the new dial instead of the Cartal, because there is a typo error at the Cartal dial. The letter spacing of "SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER" do not match the original and looks weird. (By the way: what a decadent advertising slogan SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER ;-) ).
There are a lot of tutorials here in this forum and at YouTube where you can learn how to relume your hands. I will just give you a short overview of how I did the job:

• Scrape off old paint with a knife
• Clean hands with alcohol
• Fix on toothpick
• Mix luminous paint (here I wrote some more details)
• Apply luminous paint on the back

And here some pictures:

 

[Saulgman]

Good work so far. Enjoyed following this process. Good luck with the rest

 

[matzemedia]

Mounting case
I just thought I can put everything together and enjoy the look of my new watch. Sometimes things go differently. First the easy part, the crown: This goes straight forward. Putting some Loctite on the tube and screw it into the case - done. The first problem is the insert. I use the milk insert. It is a very nice insert with big letters. But the inner and outer diameter do not fit the case. The outer diameter is too small to clamp into the bezel and the inner diameter is too small, and it does not fit over the crystal. So I have to reduce the inner diameter and glue the insert into the bezel. To increase the insert diameter, I use a file, and it takes time to increase the diameter by 0.2mm. For the glue I use a flexible UHU. It gives me the possibility to change the insert later again. Far away from plug and play.
​​​​​​
Next problem - mounting the movement into the case. Some days ago I already changed the case in the inner diameter to fit the 3135 movement. As it now turns out, not enough! The dial is not sitting deep enough into the case. There is a small space between the dial and dial ring. Without changing the diameters of the case with a lathe, this won't get better. I decided to leave it for now.
In order to describe the build completely, it should be mentioned that I have mounted the case back and the straps. Currently, I use a seal which is too flat and does not seal the watch waterproof. For the case back, I have to buy the original, bigger seal. Or someone knows a fitting aftermarket part. The straps I mount with two fat spring bars. I really like the look of the old school spring bars.


Here are some pics of the current result:



Next step "regulate movement" and maybe some bleeding of the insert

 

[Holdingman]

Man, this is super