A question came up in the VSF DJ41 thread about replacing the rep dial with one from an earlier generation model. My reply there is relevant here as well so I'm reposting it below.
"The rep VSF DJ41 dials are like the gen DJ41 dials in that there are no dial feet, but there is a non-continious rim on the underside at the edge. This rim hugs the movement with a friction fit and tabs protruding from the movement prevent the dial from rotating in either direction.
Pics are borrowed from other threads
So to use a previous generation dial on the VS3235, you could use dial dots. I've always hated those things, dials can shift laterally which risks paint scraping on the dial edges against the rehaut. This could occur while pulling or pushing the stem. Dial dots are also a PITA when you need to remove the dial for whatever reason as they are super sticky.
The other option would be to drill two holes in the date plate to accommodate the dial feet of the replacement dial. It's possible the dial feet on the replacement dial can't go on the VS3235 in the same place due to other parts of the VSF movement being in the way. So two holes could be drilled anywhere it's clear, and the replacement dial feet clipped and moved (new feet glued on).
However, here comes the real potential rub. I can't speak firsthand about the rep DJ41 dial face, but the rep VSF 126610 dials have a stairstep edge to them (probably like the gen), and the case is cut with a stairstep dial seat to fit the exact dial contour. I had never seen a dial like this before, with the stairstep face edge, and the non-continuous rim underneath, it's a much more elaborate construction than a flat plate dial.
So, if planning to use a flat plate dial, two things have to work:
1. The replacement dial has to fit completely within the very narrow bottom step of the case's stairstep dial seat or there would be a gap between the dial and the rehaut
2. The dial can't have more extra space outside the minute tics than the very narrow width of that bottom step of the stairstep dial seat or you will have displaced (floating) minute tics.
Basically for the Sub, a replacement dial would need to be the same size, and have the same minute tic placement as what's on the upper flat level only of the Sub dial pictured above. A dial could be shaved to those specs but there is precious little room for error.
I had toyed around with the notion of making a 126610 Hulk until I saw the 3235 Sub dial construction and the case grooves. Combined with the dial mounting issues to the movement, it's just not worth it IMO."
Edit: Note that there certainly are folks here capable of this type of precision work. I like to do my own work and can shave a dial but I don't have a lathe and I don't want to ruin my BP Miyota Hulk dial I've been saving for a special build. I guess it's going in the ZZF afterall. The ZZF markers will get swapped over.