Noob V4 Daytona's

[ubi]

hello everyone, I would like to have your opinion. is this noob v 4? and if so are they acceptable, I wonder if the word "chronograph » is not misaligned. Thank you !
link : https://imgur.com/a/7d5cmgF

I think it's the sunburst of the dial and the shadowing that is making the COSMOGRAPH appear to be misaligned. But I think it looks lined up.

 

[Cowboy45]

Got another one on the way. GL already. Looks better then the last one. So ill have 2 to franken oh and clean wrappers thats a win ????

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[bertieng]

Got another one on the way. GL already. Looks better then the last one. So ill have 2 to franken oh and clean wrappers thats a win ????

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You got it from Trusty too?

 

[Cowboy45]

You got it from Trusty too?

Yeah i did when it was $998

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[BoatBoat]

Got another one on the way. GL already. Looks better then the last one. So ill have 2 to franken oh and clean wrappers thats a win ????

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Very nice mate

 

[Burbizia]

Are these 1188$ now?
I see the logic, but seems high nonetheless.

I guess their appeal is not only to use them OOTB, but also to create Franken 116520
for both these uses I found the 420$ more asked (compared to the past) hard to justify (note: that this is just my 400$ opinion) and I'll try to discuss why.

Creating a 116520 Franken became almost the standard until raids of March-April.
Genuine Dial, maybe hands, Bezel (genuine or ARF) and most people thought to have a very good replica.
Most of the build I saw (90% of the ones with Luminova indexs, that had cheaper dials) were way off because the specific dials required short clasp (almost impossible to find).
Also (and most important) the Rehaut is the main tell. Way more than Dial.
This can be solved only brushing the engraving (but then you need to also find slim hands).
Not only, but case is totaly off.
A 2000$ gen case might be a better investment than 1500$ dial (also = white APH are not rare, are the standard.. listing this as a characrestici is most of the time asinine).
Sad enough, case are very rare.

Many people also replace noob bracelets with ARF (with terrible endlinks as a result)

Case are so off that I think an ARF with a CF Bezel (550-600$) might not be so different when wore (no, the fake minutes ans hours functions are not an issue. Nobody uses them).

To me:

116520
Genuine: 100% looks like genuine (28.000$)
N00b Heavy Franken: 80% genuine (3.000$)
N00b Out of the Box: 75% genuine (1.200$)
ARF with CF: 70% like genuine (600$)

116500
Genuine: 100% looks like genuine (32.000$)
N00b Light Franken: 85% genuine (5.000$)
N00b Heay Mod: 80% genuine (1.200$)
N00b with transparent gasket: 75% genuine (1.250$)
N00b Out of the Box: 50% genuine (1.200$) white gasket is junk
ARF with light mod CF: 70% like genuine (600$)

this are rough estimations....

The mantra of the forum is "Wear your replica being happy about quality of it and do not care too much about it being impossible to spot".
This approach is a good and heathy one, but applying it to my tastes, an ARF with a CF bezel is money better spent than a noob for 1200$ (before any other operations).


P.S. I own a Genuine white 116520 and ARF V2 116500, planned to build a Franken 116520 with black dial, but the rehaut and the case were sooo off, that spending 3000$ seemed silly.

 

[BoatBoat]

Are these 1188$ now?
I see the logic, but seems high nonetheless.

I guess their appeal is not only to use them OOTB, but also to create Franken 116520
for both these uses I found the 420$ more asked (compared to the past) hard to justify (note: that this is just my 400$ opinion) and I'll try to discuss why.

Creating a 116520 Franken became almost the standard until raids of March-April.
Genuine Dial, maybe hands, Bezel (genuine or ARF) and most people thought to have a very good replica.
Most of the build I saw (90% of the ones with Luminova indexs, that had cheaper dials) were way off because the specific dials required short clasp (almost impossible to find).
Also (and most important) the Rehaut is the main tell. Way more than Dial.
This can be solved only brushing the engraving (but then you need to also find slim hands).
Not only, but case is totaly off.
A 2000$ gen case might be a better investment than 1500$ dial (also = white APH are not rare, are the standard.. listing this as a characrestici is most of the time asinine).
Sad enough, case are very rare.

Many people also replace noob bracelets with ARF (with terrible endlinks as a result)

Case are so off that I think an ARF with a CF Bezel (550-600$) might not be so different when wore (no, the fake minutes ans hours functions are not an issue. Nobody uses them).

To me:

116520
Genuine: 100% looks like genuine (28.000$)
N00b Heavy Franken: 80% genuine (3.000$)
N00b Out of the Box: 75% genuine (1.200$)
ARF with CF: 70% like genuine (600$)

116500
Genuine: 100% looks like genuine (32.000$)
N00b Light Franken: 85% genuine (5.000$)
N00b Heay Mod: 80% genuine (1.200$)
N00b with transparent gasket: 75% genuine (1.250$)
N00b Out of the Box: 50% genuine (1.200$) white gasket is junk
ARF with light mod CF: 70% like genuine (600$)

this are rough estimations....

The mantra of the forum is "Wear your replica being happy about quality of it and do not care too much about it being impossible to spot".
This approach is a good and heathy one, but applying it to my tastes, an ARF with a CF bezel is money better spent than a noob for 1200$ (before any other operations).


P.S. I own a Genuine white 116520 and ARF V2 116500, planned to build a Franken 116520 with black dial, but the rehaut and the case were sooo off, that spending 3000$ seemed silly.

Quality thoughts and input here.

 

[big_polarbear]

(no, the fake minutes ans hours functions are not an issue. Nobody uses them).

I, for one, use my chrono all the time :fuelfire:

 

[ettorefranco]

I, for one, use my chrono all the time :fuelfire:[/QUOTE

I don't, but if I ever need to use it, I want to be able to use it :B:

 

[Bobi01]

 

[Nikz19]

To me:

116520
Genuine: 100% looks like genuine (28.000$)
N00b Heavy Franken: 80% genuine (3.000$)
N00b Out of the Box: 75% genuine

Yeah well, if only the 116520 noob didn’t have shitty hands, very shitty bezels, horribly wrong dials it would have been 75% gen looking.
Out of the box a noob 116520 is not even close to 30% of the real deal. Not even close to an arf lol

 

[zewthenimp]

To me:

116520
Genuine: 100% looks like genuine (28.000$)
N00b Heavy Franken: 80% genuine (3.000$)
N00b Out of the Box: 75% genuine (1.200$)
ARF with CF: 70% like genuine (600$)

Appreciate your input! This is interesting... it was always my understanding that for 116520 (and most Daytonas), the ARF's looked more gen like than Noob. (And the appeal of Noob was mostly due to being thinner and working chrono). Not so, in your opinion?

I just ordered a CF bezel for my 116520. Need to find someone to swap it for me (not sure I'd trust myself)!

 

[Keishara]

116519LN superfranken (ongoing build), on custom alligator strap and gen oysterflex / clasp.

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk

 

[Stuart Pitt]

My interest in the Daytona started after finding the Submariner bezel cumbersome for cook times, so a working chronograph is a must.

 

[Burbizia]

Yeah well, if only the 116520 noob didn’t have shitty hands, very shitty bezels, horribly wrong dials it would have been 75% gen looking.
Out of the box a noob 116520 is not even close to 30% of the real deal. Not even close to an arf lol

Appreciate your input! This is interesting... it was always my understanding that for 116520 (and most Daytonas), the ARF's looked more gen like than Noob. (And the appeal of Noob was mostly due to being thinner and working chrono). Not so, in your opinion?

I just ordered a CF bezel for my 116520. Need to find someone to swap it for me (not sure I'd trust myself)!

I admit I had no clear idea about arf/n00b 116520 (having Genuine, never put so much time studying them).
I read they were used almost totaly as a base for modding.
Bezel was terrible as was dial, but I thought that after V2 they enhanced manythings (as for 116500)

Sticking to Panda (since Black dial have shining and not MAT subdials), the Noob V4 improved dial (almost on the same level of ARF), has better Bezel (worse than CF, but not that much), and is thinner.


All the above are my personal opinion / taste / what my eyes are used to spot...

 

[butler182]

116519LN superfranken (ongoing build), on custom alligator strap and gen oysterflex / clasp.

Nice hands...are those upgraded aftermarket?

 

[Keishara]

Nice hands...are those upgraded aftermarket?

They're gen hands

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk

 

[Mark1937]

Are these 1188$ now?
I see the logic, but seems high nonetheless.

I guess their appeal is not only to use them OOTB, but also to create Franken 116520
for both these uses I found the 420$ more asked (compared to the past) hard to justify (note: that this is just my 400$ opinion) and I'll try to discuss why.

Creating a 116520 Franken became almost the standard until raids of March-April.
Genuine Dial, maybe hands, Bezel (genuine or ARF) and most people thought to have a very good replica.
Most of the build I saw (90% of the ones with Luminova indexs, that had cheaper dials) were way off because the specific dials required short clasp (almost impossible to find).
Also (and most important) the Rehaut is the main tell. Way more than Dial.
This can be solved only brushing the engraving (but then you need to also find slim hands).
Not only, but case is totaly off.
A 2000$ gen case might be a better investment than 1500$ dial (also = white APH are not rare, are the standard.. listing this as a characrestici is most of the time asinine).
Sad enough, case are very rare.

Many people also replace noob bracelets with ARF (with terrible endlinks as a result)

Case are so off that I think an ARF with a CF Bezel (550-600$) might not be so different when wore (no, the fake minutes ans hours functions are not an issue. Nobody uses them).

To me:

116520
Genuine: 100% looks like genuine (28.000$)
N00b Heavy Franken: 80% genuine (3.000$)
N00b Out of the Box: 75% genuine (1.200$)
ARF with CF: 70% like genuine (600$)

116500
Genuine: 100% looks like genuine (32.000$)
N00b Light Franken: 85% genuine (5.000$)
N00b Heay Mod: 80% genuine (1.200$)
N00b with transparent gasket: 75% genuine (1.250$)
N00b Out of the Box: 50% genuine (1.200$) white gasket is junk
ARF with light mod CF: 70% like genuine (600$)

this are rough estimations....

The mantra of the forum is "Wear your replica being happy about quality of it and do not care too much about it being impossible to spot".
This approach is a good and heathy one, but applying it to my tastes, an ARF with a CF bezel is money better spent than a noob for 1200$ (before any other operations).


P.S. I own a Genuine white 116520 and ARF V2 116500, planned to build a Franken 116520 with black dial, but the rehaut and the case were sooo off, that spending 3000$ seemed silly.

Very good post! I have 2 franken 116520 chromalight (gen dial, bezel, hands, crystal and crown) perfect Noob sels and ARF removable parts and clasp.

the case problem how can I solve it? Cases that have been modded, do you think they look more like gen?

 

[butler182]

My light mod (and recommended) journey: stock noob ($675 old pricing) + translucent gasket ($5 at Ofrei) + CF bezel $125 + Upgraded aftermaket Hands ($95) + buff and polish dial markers ($0). All in $900. End result is fantastic in IMHO and not too hard on the wallet.

 

[KJ2020]