-
Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!
ARF GMT 116710 SH3186 photo review
- Thread starter m5smg2
- Start date
How many you have pay for all ?If that is the watch of tony I can confirm it has a gen Datewheel, because I did the build. Numbers look different in different light but it’s 100% gen ;-)
- 12/3/18
- 32,783
- 59,021
- 113
Rolex datewheels are sold for movements, not for watch models. So a 16610 with a 3135 would use the exact same DW as a 116610 with a 3135. Obviously there would be some minor deviations between production runs, but those should be nearly imperceptible. Of course there could be some detectable minor font style differences if replacing a 1990 model with a new DW, but in no case should that include misshapen numeral elements like a fat sided 2 or serifs appearing only on one side of the number 1's for example.
In the case of the 3135, the same part number 3135-16200 is correct for 4 movements.
3135
3155
3175
3185
The 3186 does call for a different part number 3186-16201 but I've never seen one of those for sale by an aftermarket or Ebay vendor. Most of them just include 3186 with the other movements above, claiming their 3135-16200 will fit those also.
This is what new gen Rolex datewheel numerals should look like
In the case of the 3135, the same part number 3135-16200 is correct for 4 movements.
3135
3155
3175
3185
The 3186 does call for a different part number 3186-16201 but I've never seen one of those for sale by an aftermarket or Ebay vendor. Most of them just include 3186 with the other movements above, claiming their 3135-16200 will fit those also.
This is what new gen Rolex datewheel numerals should look like
- 12/3/18
- 32,783
- 59,021
- 113
A couple of other things to consider.
Rep crystals can distort how a DW looks due to optical imperfections.
Sometimes vendors get hold of Rolex products that are discarded for various reasons (factory seconds) and those are then sold with or without disclosure to those of us buying or building.
Rep crystals can distort how a DW looks due to optical imperfections.
Sometimes vendors get hold of Rolex products that are discarded for various reasons (factory seconds) and those are then sold with or without disclosure to those of us buying or building.
Last edited:
- 21/4/19
- 1,799
- 2,089
- 113
Slight tangent. The 2x magnification really looks awful sometimes in comparison to the 2.5x haha! Waiting for the Prof to offer his 3x crystal.
ARF sure did pull a weird one with this discrepancy.
P.S: aye the bracelet is tighter here, humidity got to me
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
ARF sure did pull a weird one with this discrepancy.
P.S: aye the bracelet is tighter here, humidity got to me
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Would appreciate if people with Gen Datewheel on their GMT Master 2 ARF could show me some different dates to compare 
thanks
thanks
reptime101
Active Member
- 15/9/18
- 389
- 139
- 43
How are your movements holding up guys? just got mine serviced by the great OASCOM hope it lasts for a solid year
hope it lasts for a solid yearWas hoping the experts here could just confirm a couple things before I make a big mistake. I was hoping to realign the insert as it's a bit off and is really bothering me. What to confirm the correct procedure to remove the bezel is to use a bezel removal tool. I read to put some tape on the case to help protect from scratches.
From there is the insert simply pressed out? Is it held with tape or adhesive?
When putting it back on do I first reinstall the bezel without the insert and once the bezel is installed do I then align the insert and press it back in? Or do I reinsert the insert to the bezel and then out it on the watch. If the latter how do I make sure it lines up correctly?
Any help and tips are greatly appreciated.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
From there is the insert simply pressed out? Is it held with tape or adhesive?
When putting it back on do I first reinstall the bezel without the insert and once the bezel is installed do I then align the insert and press it back in? Or do I reinsert the insert to the bezel and then out it on the watch. If the latter how do I make sure it lines up correctly?
Any help and tips are greatly appreciated.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
A good idea to use some masking tape to prevent some scratches - you can just gover the teeth on the bezel remover.
The ARF bezel insert is press fitted - so you can use a stanley knife to wedge between the bezel and insert and slowly work your way to pop it off. (Other makers can be adhesive - so much of the same process - but warming the insert will help with softening the glue).
When putting it back - reinstall the bezel without the insert. the insert can crack when pressed - so always do it as a last step.
- 21/4/19
- 1,799
- 2,089
- 113
- 12/3/18
- 32,783
- 59,021
- 113
ARF w/prof crystal vs RXF w/stock crystal
The difference in mag is striking. Wondering if the dial/crystal height can be influenced to increase the magnification on the ARF.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
Only thing you can do is try a taller height crystal gasket bro. Obviously that has some potentially negative cosmetic implications. Maybe a happy medium is achievable.
Decided to try my hand and swapping the SH3186 movement for the VR3186 movement and I'm really have some issues. I've swapped out A2824 movements before so I thought I could take it. My first issue came with the second hand sitting too high and touch the crystal when cased and stopping the watch, I think I've resolved that problem but now I've noticed the hand moving on each other. I've also noticed that the hour hand sits very close to the gmt hand. Also, when I removed the dial the SH hand nothing underneath not and the VR came with a bronze thin washer that the SH did not have. I left it in place when I installed the dial. Is there any tips or tricks anyone might have to help me out?
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Decided to try my hand and swapping the SH3186 movement for the VR3186 movement and I'm really have some issues. I've swapped out A2824 movements before so I thought I could tackle it. My first issue came with the second hand sitting too high and touch the crystal when cased and stopping the watch, I think I've resolved that problem but now I've noticed the hand moving on each other. I've also noticed that the hour hand sits very close to the gmt hand. Also, when I removed the dial the SH hand nothing underneath not and the VR came with a bronze thin washer that the SH did not have. I left it in place when I installed the dial. Is there any tips or tricks anyone might have to help me out?
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
guybythelake
Active Member
- 13/7/14
- 299
- 122
- 43
I did a VRF swap recently, seconds hand was a royal pain in the rear to install. And the hour hand and GMT hand is closer than the GMT to the minutes hand but nothing should be touching. I had to squeeze the minute hand hole but if you do you must approach it very lightly from sides so that it does have minimum impact on the way hand sits. You should examine the movement from side and determine if any of the hands installed crooked. Also be careful that hour hand is not touching the dial. Do you have a pic of the movement with dial and hands on from side?
- 12/3/18
- 32,783
- 59,021
- 113
The copper washer is under the GMT cover plate in the SH3186, also in gen. It's directly under the dial in the 3185. The 3185 hour wheel does not have a bump stop to rest the hour hand on like the 3186 does. So maybe you aren't pressing the hour hand down far enough to separate it from the GMT hand. You have to be really careful pressing this hand though because too far down and the hand will scratch the dial.
The SH seconds hand is almost always too tight to fit the VR second wheel. It can be broached slightly (hole made larger) with a sewing needle. It needs to be opened up only slightly. You can use a tiny drop of blue locktite either in the hole before pressing or through the hole after pressing. Dab off excess with rodico if needed. Let the locktite congeal a little before pressing if using it under the hand.
Last edited:
I did the VR swap into the ARF last week. The second hand was slightly tight but went on fine without excessive force. You need to use a loupe looking side on to ensure each hand is sitting straight and not touching each other.
Loving this watch now it’s working properly. I can’t take it off and my others are getting neglected.
Loving this watch now it’s working properly. I can’t take it off and my others are getting neglected.
[/urll. Can anyone recommend someone in US that I could reach out to swap in the VR movement? Seems quite a few people have had a little trouble with this, and it’s beyond my skill set.
- 9/12/17
- 1,092
- 389
- 83
Hi, take a look here, they're trusted by RWI, if any unfortunate dispute arise the staff can get in to render help. Look for one that near to you, but I highly recommend misiekped . He is very skillful I only have good experience with him. he is in NY, and his section is here https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/watchservicesny
Good luck!