NOOB Pepsi GMT 126710 BLRO mini review

[m5smg2]

A couple of us are working on a repair to 2824 CHS movements. The repair would keep the correct hand stack but would lose the independent GMT hand. Welcome back to the old days, where you use your bezel for a second time zone! One could achieve a 3rd time zone with this repair if desired by manually setting the GMT hand to GMT time when pressing the hands. Then the GMT offset would be permanent unless you press the hands again. The good news is that also with this repair you can regain the quickset date feature. I just completed a really minor mainplate mod that allows for that feature to be restored. AFAIK, there is no upgrade to new CHS movements, and I've read about people breaking theirs within days of receiving them. So treat them with kid gloves and NEVER use crown position 2 unless absolutely necessary, and then ONLY anti-clockwise to move the hour hand forward.

@ KJ2020 this is a smart mod. I only use the GMT hand for am/pm anyway. But getting back the quickset date function is a big deal. I know quickset date is not gen function but who cares—it makes life easier—and thanks to you—reliability. Setting the hour hand 24 clicks per one date change is a pain. Life is too short lol

 

[atozzotas]

Humm what do you guys think?


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[molivio]

that is not ceramic piece, I see the line

 

[Tobel]

that is not ceramic piece, I see the line

It is ceramic, but made with 2 halves glued together, which is why you see the line

 

[botsyboy]

Humm what do you guys think?


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Left justified date


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[Mark1937]

Left justified date


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Is it possible to adjust?

 

[MKTimer]

True, I've been wondering whether the new noob has stronger springs. Worth looking into. This should be dissected by a professional and commented upon.

IF the spring ends up being strong, then the watch will no longer be a time bomb (correct me if I am wrong lads)

THUS the price increase would be somewhat acceptable, because it would be the first working non-time grenade CHS

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I second this! I am in London. Mine should be here 10 or so days. If there is an experienced watch maker in London that’s willing to pick it up and tear it down to comment. I’m game. PM me.


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[MKTimer]

Can any one experienced comment if a gen DW will fit this movement or not?


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[atozzotas]

Is it possible to adjust?

Nope, new DW needed possibly


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[KJ2020]

Nope, new DW needed possibly


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There's nothing wrong with the datewheel. It's all in recognizing the angle at which the picture was taken. Look at the cyclops / date window relationship first. A wide cyclops border on any edge will make a correspondingly wide white space next to it.

This is a parallax error. It makes the numbers APPEAR to be left justified, they are not. The only way to SEE the actual number position is by having a pic where the cyclops border is nearly even all the way around. If you don't have that, you need to interpret what you are seeing with what you know to be true.

Wide cyclops borders make wide white spaces!

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...o-better-determine-if-a-datewheel-is-centered

 

[botsyboy]

Possibly but nearly every pic I’ve seen of this watch has left justified dates including OP. It’s a well known Noob issue and maybe just a qc issue for better alignment.
In this case it has nothing to do with angle. It is clearly left of centre!

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[Hazing]

Oh you are by no means the only one and in fact I probably have seen more reports like yours of people having no problems than people who do. It is just that I did not want any trouble from my first and so far only GMT so I ordered a ICHS with the solid ETA clone as I also did not want to have to treat the movement with silk gloves. If I were to order any others I might well go the CHS route.
I am interested in the longevity of the low-beat CHS movement.
KJ2020 also mentioned in one of his threads that if or when the CHS fails you can replace it with a ICHS pretty cheaply.

Yeah, I care more about a functioning gmt feature and a not having to be extraordinarily gentle with the movement than the CHS. I mean if anyone is aware enough to recorgnize the hand stack is out of order, they’re going to be knowledgable and aware enough to see and find other details.

Ive never been a fan of the GMT master line, although I really would like a GMT in my collection at this point. A good one. No specific brand.

 

[KJ2020]

There's nothing wrong with the datewheel. It's all in recognizing the angle at which the picture was taken. Look at the cyclops / date window relationship first. A wide cyclops border on any edge will make a correspondingly wide white space next to it.

This is a parallax error. It makes the numbers APPEAR to be left justified, they are not. The only way to SEE the actual number position is by having a pic where the cyclops border is nearly even all the way around. If you don't have that, you need to interpret what you are seeing with what you know to be true.

Wide cyclops borders make wide white spaces!

https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...el-is-centered

As a follow on statement to the this post, if a datewheel APPEARS centered and there IS a wide cyclops border, then the datewheel is NOT centered. Almost any datewheel can be made to appear centered by slightly changing the angle of the pic. Think about that the next time you are QC'ing your new watch.

 

[KJ2020]

Possibly but nearly every pic I’ve seen of this watch has left justified dates including OP. It’s a well known Noob issue and maybe just a qc issue for better alignment.
In this case it has nothing to do with angle. It is clearly left of centre!

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This DW may be slightly left justified, but moving the pic angle will absolutely shift the appearance of it. If the wide cyclops border on the right is reduced so it is even with the border on the left, the numbers will appear to move to the right. This is simple optics.

 

[MKTimer]

As a follow on statement to the this8 post, if a datewheel APPEARS centered and there IS a wide cyclops border, then the datewheel is NOT centered. Almost any datewheel can be made to appear centered by slightly changing the angle of the pic. Think about that the next time you are QC'ing your new watch.

I just got my QC and I was worried that the bottom of the “2” is not parallel to the date window square. But I thought it may just be the angle of the picture. Can the DW be swapped for a gen on this movement?

My bigger concern on my qc is the speed “mountain” at 18. Andvtgere appears to be red bleed on to some of the numerals - but this may just be shadows from a poor quality photo.

Feel free to comment

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[TonySoprano1]

I just got my QC and I was worried that the bottom of the “2” is not parallel to the date window square. But I thought it may just be the angle of the picture. Can the DW be swapped for a gen on this movement?

My bigger concern on my qc is the speed “mountain” at 18. Andvtgere appears to be red bleed on to some of the numerals - but this may just be shadows from a poor quality photo.

Feel free to comment

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Not to mention the slanted DW

 

[Hazing]

MKTimer that is definitely the new noob insert.


As far as the color, I would think it is more of a lighting issue than anything else. But it does go to show how how dark the red is on th enoob. In “normal” lighting conditions.

 

[KJ2020]

I just got my QC and I was worried that the bottom of the “2” is not parallel to the date window square. But I thought it may just be the angle of the picture. Can the DW be swapped for a gen on this movement?

My bigger concern on my qc is the speed “mountain” at 18. Andvtgere appears to be red bleed on to some of the numerals - but this may just be shadows from a poor quality photo.

Feel free to comment

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In the first pic, your DW was made to look centered by changing the pic angle slightly. If the DW was really centered and appeared that way, all the cyclops borders would be nearly even, like this

Applying what we just learned about cyclops borders (hehe), your DW is actually left and low. The wider cyclops borders left and low give the number more white space left and low than what it will have when viewed with equal cyclops borders (dead center).

Your number 2 of 21 has a downward slant to it. It's likely this is the only number affected, I've seen this before. Ask to see another number if you want, that may give you another look at what the DW really looks like.

This is an ETA 2824 movement. The only way you can use a gen DW is to glue it to the ETA DW, effectively using it as an overlay. This would normally be a problem because 2824 cases don't have a lot of clearance below the dial. But these GMT 2824 CHS movements use a 2836 case and a high rise tooth ring DW, plus a really thick dial spacer so although I've never seen it done, if there was ever a case well suited to this mod, this is it.

I don't see a mountain at 18, looks a little bumpy but probably ok.

 

[CybNoX]

That’s crazy. Are you asking about using a gmt 3285 to try and build a Submariner? Why not just get a Submariner and save yourself...

coz i thought the case set and SEL looks good. lol

 

[m5smg2]

Regarding the DW, my 2x fonts may be a tick to the left. But rest of numbers look centered. Then of course there’s the angle and cyclops distortion like KJ2020 pointed out. Hope these pics help: