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Vintage Rolex and Tudor case bevels???

SpringerAThiker

Do not accept unsolicited offers
21/1/25
9
8
3
Hopefully this is.the correct forum for this topic, and plz let me if it would be more appropriate elsewhere, and ill move it...

As the title suggests, im.seeking guidance/how-to/tutorials on how to cut those amazing levels on the top (vertically from lug to lug) of vintage Rolex and Tudor Submariner, Sea Dweller, and GMT cases. (Im prob leaving out some ref #s, but that's all I could think of at the moment).

I've seen a myriad of sizes and shapes, some DEEP and WIDE, some delicate and barely visible, and, for the life of me, i cannot visualize any method other than filing by hand to make those cuts, and I know i would have one hell of a time cutting them into some side of the case, and then trying to match the size/shape on the alternate side, mirror image style. It would drive me (and my ocd) crazy, and come out looking like shit.

Does anyone know a method to get the job done with a dremel or other tools? The only answer I've come across so far is to use a "lapping" machine, and when i did a little research into lapping, I can't see how it could be done.

The only watchbuilder/modder that I've been referred to is a gentleman called DBANE, and I've seen pics of some of his case work, and its pure artistry. I haven't been able to locate him (heard he moved on from reps to 100% gens) or any other modders that could help me either find DBANE or another case magician, willing to give it a go, or pass.on the recipe for their secret sauce.

Any ideas?
 

KJ2020

Time Traveler
Supporter
12/3/18
36,506
75,178
113
I'm not sure from your post if you are referring to the diagonal brushing on top of the lugs, the mirror finish angle cut between the lugs and the case sides (called chamfers), or both. The diagonal brushing on top of the lugs can indeed be done by a lapping machine. There is a video here showing that. I will try to find it. I'm sure the chamfers can be be cut by machine also.

But by and large both accomplished modders and persistent DIY'ers here do both of these mods by hand. The diagonal lug brushing is pretty challenging to do because the surface is such a 3D shape that you have to do it in stages. You can't cover the entire lug top in a single stroke of sandpaper. So it becomes a matching game where you try to keep the overall depth even, and the grains at the correct 45 degree angle and parallel. The light reflections on the lug are a big clue to your performance, as they will be straightish when your surface is even and curved when there are different depths. I use the reflections a lot to guide where more material needs to come off.

The chamfers can be hand cut in many ways - file, sandpaper backed by a stick or rod, a dremel, etc. While this type of metal working may seem daunting at first, it's like most tasks in that you have to practice it to get better at it. Grab a cheap case from DHGate or AliExpress, get some tools and dive in. There are lots of threads here showing members' projects where these skills are demonstrated.

I am no expert case modder by any measure but have managed to complete a few projects decently after some practice on junk cases. Improving the appearance of Crown Guards (CG's) is another frequent mod members do. It can make a big difference in how much you like your rep. You just have to be patient and take it slow - many errors are correctable by taking a little more material off. It's a pretty forgiving experience as long as you don't take too much material away.

Here's a case that I modded the CG's on. I really hated the fat ugly stock CG's.
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There are some examples of lug brushing and chamfer work in the thread below.
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And you will find a ton of members' modding in this thread.
 
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JTB16635

Getting To Know The Place
Supporter
19/12/24
39
17
8
If you want to cut chamfers, get polishing sticks (they look like the foam core nail files) Get from 120-10,000 grit) You will also need to Dykem or protective lacquer the case. If you don't coat the case in one of these (Dykem is blue and lacquer is purple) you won't be able to tell how wide, even, and straight the chamfers are. Use magnification when cutting the chamfers. Start with the 120 grit sticks and get close to the width you want the flats on the chamfers, then start moving up grits. Each step up with require less pressure and strokes. After 10,000 grit use some green rough with a hard felt wheel (either on a motor or with a Dremel-mount the dremel in a vise and hold the case for more control). Pull the case towards you (opposite direction wheel is spinning) as the wheel is spinning down (cutting) and push the case in the direction of the wheels rotation to polish. Once you get to the polishing, use a light touch. It shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to an hour. Just go slow and be methodical.