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Viet Gen-Spec 16710 Frankens are here to stay - byebye BP!

WatchSmith.US

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That's some precision work bro with a perfect outcome. Nicely done, congrats!

Thank you bro! I’ll be anxious to get it off the bench and into a case. Leftover 3135 parts might go into a VS3135 movement.
 
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Seolite

Getting To Know The Place
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I shouldn’t have come to this part of the forum.. Seeing this makes you burn a hole into your wallet.
 
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WatchSmith.US

-- Watchmaker --
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Gen bracelet restoration to repair and replace worn links. Some of the solid side links were deeply worn resulting in considerable sag and gaps between the links, and a couple of hollow center links were worn as well. Replacement parts from the parts bin and now she’s tight and good for another 20+ years.

The bracelet puller tool is very handy for times like this.
 

Danza1813

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keisuke_z

Renowned Member
22/1/13
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Gen bracelet restoration to repair and replace worn links. Some of the solid side links were deeply worn resulting in considerable sag and gaps between the links, and a couple of hollow center links were worn as well. Replacement parts from the parts bin and now she’s tight and good for another 20+ years.

The bracelet puller tool is very handy for times like this.

Hey [mention]Triplock [/mention] if you don’t mind me asking, how do you avoid marking/scratching the links when you’re using the bracelet puller tool? Is it just a factor of tightening down the clamps as much as possible so there’s no slipping? Otherwise I was afraid that too much vertical tightening would also damage the link..
 
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WatchSmith.US

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Hey [mention]Triplock [/mention] if you don’t mind me asking, how do you avoid marking/scratching the links when you’re using the bracelet puller tool? Is it just a factor of tightening down the clamps as much as possible so there’s no slipping? Otherwise I was afraid that too much vertical tightening would also damage the link..

I was concerned at first too, but the clamping surfaces are precision ground to identically match the curvature of the links, so the most I get are some light burnished marks and no scratches. The side links are what you pull and they’re solid and there’s no way to crush or deform them. I was thinking I’d make some copper shims but I’ve not found them necessary. I still might make them though.
 
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keisuke_z

Renowned Member
22/1/13
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I was concerned at first too, but the clamping surfaces are precision ground to identically match the curvature of the links, so the most I get are some light burnished marks and no scratches. The side links are what you pull and they’re solid and there’s no way to crush or deform them. I was thinking I’d make some copper shims but I’ve not found them necessary. I still might make them though.

Cool, thanks! After trying mine out tonight, yea I only wound up with some marking on the finishing, which a couple hits with sandpaper took care of. Thanks!
 
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WatchSmith.US

-- Watchmaker --
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Cool, thanks! After trying mine out tonight, yea I only wound up with some marking on the finishing, which a couple hits with sandpaper took care of. Thanks!

The 5mm hex wrench that comes with the bracelet tool is a joke. It’s soft steel and strips easily. Get a good one.
I also changed the cap screws to better quality stainless steel ones. The stock ones are really crap like the hex key. You have to tighten everything down super tight and the screw heads have too much play in them and I wore the hex out after a few uses. Aside from that the tools themselves are outstanding.
 
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LetMeHearItNow

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Pepsi all day. It’s more accurate to the gmt master dial you have.


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Agreed as far as the accuracy.

I’m personally a fan of the 16760 so I vote Coke. But, I have an insert that faded to where the black looks blue when light hits it. You can have the best of both worlds.

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WatchSmith.US

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Pepsi all day. It’s more accurate to the gmt master dial you have.


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I admit I'm not up on all of the details that make one bezel more appropriate for one dial. I've seen coke and Pepsi dials on CH24 that have SWISS MADE and drilled lugs. I'm a huge fan of Pepsi bezels too. I guess I'll get a second bezel ring so I can swap them out without having to remove the insert.
 
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WatchSmith.US

-- Watchmaker --
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Agreed as far as the accuracy.

I’m personally a fan of the 16760 so I vote Coke. But, I have an insert that faded to where the black looks blue when light hits it. You can have the best of both worlds.



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That's an awesome color change bro! What a freaking cool bezel! Are you planning to use it on a build?
 

Danza1813

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I admit I'm not up on all of the details that make one bezel more appropriate for one dial. I've seen coke and Pepsi dials on CH24 that have SWISS MADE and drilled lugs. I'm a huge fan of Pepsi bezels too. I guess I'll get a second bezel ring so I can swap them out without having to remove the insert.

The gmt master only had Pepsi and all black bezel. Gmt master 2 had the coke and the other 2.


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LetMeHearItNow

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The gmt master only had Pepsi and all black bezel. Gmt master 2 had the coke and the other 2.


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There’s also the burgundy/brown, yellow/brown (Rootbeer) and the highly disputed all-blue bezel (Blueberry). I believe the first 2 were for two tones and gold though as was the black with yellow or gold numbering.