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very slow minute and hours, seconds working

Karbon74

Pika Factory
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thanks guys.
Once I manage to demag, I will try to crimp the cannon pinion

I saw that the cannon pinion for the 2836 is attached with parallel bars to a wheel. Any tips on where to crimp?

I read that it should be on the collar in general, but I also saw people saying to tighten the parallel bars?
 

OnTheSly

Getting To Know The Place
24/6/23
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Best Coast
thanks guys.
Once I manage to demag, I will try to crimp the cannon pinion

I saw that the cannon pinion for the 2836 is attached with parallel bars to a wheel. Any tips on where to crimp?

I read that it should be on the collar in general, but I also saw people saying to tighten the parallel bars?
These aren't really meant to be tightened like a 'traditional' CP, ETA wants you to replace them. If you can source a replacement that is what I would do. If not, get a feel for how tight the CP currently is by holding the CP b/w your fingers on one hand and turning the wheel with the other. To tighten you can try to gently squeeze the arms of the wheel together with the wheel still on the CP and then compare the tightness to what it was before you tightened. If that isn’t working you can try to tighten by taking the driving wheel off the CP (don't distort the wheel when you do) and again squeeze the arms gently together. Also, flipping the wheel over before putting back on the CP will help to tighten the contact as this will create new contact points b/w the wheel and CP and act to tighten it. Once tightened it needs to be greased (9501/9504) on the underside.
 
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Karbon74

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These aren't really meant to be tightened like a 'traditional' CP, ETA wants you to replace them. If you can source a replacement that is what I would do. If not, get a feel for how tight the CP currently is by holding the CP b/w your fingers on one hand and turning the wheel with the other. To tighten you can try to gently squeeze the arms of the wheel together with the wheel still on the CP and then compare the tightness to what it was before you tightened. If that isn’t working you can try to tighten by taking the driving wheel off the CP (don't distort the wheel when you do) and again squeeze the arms gently together. Also, flipping the wheel over before putting back on the CP will help to tighten the contact as this will create new contact points b/w the wheel and CP and act to tighten it. Once tightened it needs to be greased (9501/9504) on the underside.
thank you. This matches what I read.
I used the first option. Squeezing the parallel arms.

I took the opportunity to clean up the hands wheels, remove all the calendar works and put a 2 position setting jumper 😅

Watch is reassembled now. So now I wait and see how the hands behave.
 
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Karbon74

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It has been 18 hours now since the operation
I am happy to report that the watch seems to be tracking fine on all hands

It seems that it was the CP indeed. I think that the combination of cleaning, oiling, crimping and removing the calendar works has done the job.

If this holds after I wear it, I will have crossed another level in my watchmaking apprenticeship 😁

thanks @OnTheSly @asusundevils1971 @dogwood your advice has been crucial
🙏😍🙏
 

Dohdoh

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30/10/13
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Glad that it worked out with the CP! Usually when a watch is magnetized, it runs faster as the hairspring clings together causing faster action.
 
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Karbon74

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Glad that it worked out with the CP! Usually when a watch is magnetized, it runs faster as the hairspring clings together causing faster action.
I did manage to demag it.
Going fast is indeed the usual, but from what I read, going slow can happen

In this case, I believe that the CP was indeed slightly loose and that the movement did not have enough force to push the calendar wheels. The slowing down issue was always happening at 10-11 on the dial (knowing that I had set the hands without bothering about date set as it's a nodate dial)

I think I got lucky 😃 but I take it
 
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