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To the experts: how to obtain the satin finish? ( brushed as per gen)

stufuse

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Rolex bracelets taper in towards the clasp. The links will also allow side ways movements a little. The jig has to allow for this or any small discrepancy on brushing will show


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mascob1

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Yes, look course and uneven and can see where it starts and stops on the links.


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Thanks for your reply.
two things: first you're right, the brushing is still far away from a gen and don't forget it made on a cheap rep,
And second the photo I took is volontary in grazing light to see the defaults...
That's why I ask to the experts what are their méthods...
Just to show the importance of the light:
 
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mega12

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Wow, what a great discussion. Many thanks.
I read somewhere that a Bergeon 5444-A is a good option for hand brushing as well but never tried. Maybe someone else knows better
 

JDM180

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Came across this pic on here and it is exactly the finish I was talking about when I said the stock rep and gen brushing is almost polished grain, I've never seen a refinished one look like this

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mascob1

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6/11/16
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This also works great for me


https://www.esslinger.com/bufflex-fb6-satin-finish-buff-choose-grit/

Medium finnish. It's soft enough so it can reach between links.

Go in circular motion but keep it straight with the buffing wheel and move whatever you brushing up or down to continue brushing lines. Don't know how to explain it better but this is foolproof method

Thanks mr oascom !
I looked at all your work and it's amazing ! You really have a great talent!
that reinforces my idea that you really have to master the different techniques to get the right results...
I bought the bufflex fb6...but can't manage to have correct results with...
what rotation speed do you recommend?
 

Oascom

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Thanks mr oascom !
I looked at all your work and it's amazing ! You really have a great talent!
that reinforces my idea that you really have to master the different techniques to get the right results...
I bought the bufflex fb6...but can't manage to have correct results with...
what rotation speed do you recommend?

Hard to say I just go and check after every pass. Go from bottom up and top to bottom I mean after you complete going one direction turn it around and do another pass. This way it stays uniform and you hit all spots .

Also please remember to prepare your wheels before you use them. For example this buffflex I had to run it high speed and cut all lose fibers with scissors to make it nice and square.
 

mascob1

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Hard to say I just go and check after every pass. Go from bottom up and top to bottom I mean after you complete going one direction turn it around and do another pass. This way it stays uniform and you hit all spots .

Also please remember to prepare your wheels before you use them. For example this buffflex I had to run it high speed and cut all lose fibers with scissors to make it nice and square.

Thanks mate ! I appreciate your advices and your knowledge sharing!:notworthy:
 

BreatheNBeat92

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This is my first try at re brushing a bracelet. Looked like a fully brushed on so i used just scotch brite green pad. Then a quick cape cod run-over. Have ordered sand papers and a dremel tool too. Any guidance for improvement will be highly appreciated
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Dr Fun Socks

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This is my first try at re brushing a bracelet. Looked like a fully brushed on so i used just scotch brite green pad. Then a quick cape cod run-over. Have ordered sand papers and a dremel tool too. Any guidance for improvement will be highly appreciated.
Theres a lot of good advice in this thread if you read back through it. I posted a whole guide with pictures and a tool list, just follow the link on page 1 or 2.
 

BreatheNBeat92

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Theres a lot of good advice in this thread if you read back through it. I posted a whole guide with pictures and a tool list, just follow the link on page 1 or 2.

Yes sir I’ve seen your tutorial, my dremel, polishing compounds and garryflex 120,240 is on the way. Takes about 3-4 weeks to reach Canada. Dremel will here tomorrow ????
I meant to ask if theres any way i can improve it with the current tools i used.
I think the clasp is fully brushed now and the logo seems to be fading slightly after brushing.
 

BreatheNBeat92

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Theres a lot of good advice in this thread if you read back through it. I posted a whole guide with pictures and a tool list, just follow the link on page 1 or 2.

Also for the dremel tool, i tried to look for both felt wheel and cotton wheel on Amazon but i see something like “felt wool polishing buffing wheel” can you guide me which ones to order for mirror polishing and for buffing scratches
Thanks you
 

Dr Fun Socks

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Lutaito i think, dont quote me on this, but im pretty sure it’s because scotchbrite is a relatively soft flexible material and your logo is so wide and shallow, the scotch brite has touched inside your logo. Other than using a laser etcher or some form of mask and sand blasting i dont think theres a lot you can do to save the logos now. Id say just wait until the rubber blocks come, literally 10-20 strokes and you’ll question why you started with scotchbrite. Sorry its not good news. Im sure someone could save the logo etching but i cant think of any other solutions than the two i mentioned. The key is to take off the bare minimum to remove the scratches but not to go heavy and remove too much material.
 

Dr Fun Socks

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Im not sure if we can post links to ebay so ill pm you the ones i used.
 

beau7816

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I recently received this Sub and like all my watches i always perform a rebrush and on this watch i limited myself to using a scotch pad only to see the results. After lightly brushing in one direction i then polished with a cloth using heavier pressure. So whats the verdict of the forum?
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tribal

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Use abrasive fleece, it works well its cheap and it's done in minutes.????
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Dr Fun Socks

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beau7816 i think it looks alright mate. What do you normally use to brush? Obviously at a super macro level im sure there are differences but if it looks good on the wrist crack on!