The Vintage DateJust Thread

[1016_idiot_savant]

I have noticed a lot of interest in vintage DateJust builds recently, and I thought it a good time to start a dedicated thread to collect experiences and options... and, of course, to showcase some of the amazing builds on this forum.

To get the ball rolling - this is my recently completed franken, blue dial DateJust 16030:

• Gen dial and bezel
• Raffles case and Jubilee
• SternKreutz XS 307.457
• Raffles "higher" DateJust hands (to clear the indices
• NH35 movement
• Raffles "open 6 and 9" datewheel overlay
• Athaya tube and crown
• Opened lug holes to accept larger gen-spec spring bars

This was a little more challenging than a 1016 build, but not by much. Gen dials and bezels are reasonably affordable and easily sourced.... LET'S SEE WHAT YOU HAVE BUILT - BUILD DETAILS APPRECIATED

 

[flashu]

Subscribed, very interested in the vintage DJ’s

I think their flavor is unmatched by the current offerings in Rolex line of DJ

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

Subscribed, very interested in the vintage DJ’s

I think their flavor is unmatched by the current offerings in Rolex line of DJ

Agreed - vintage Rolex have a special feeling, from when watches were a necessity and their design ethos was about reliability and practicality.

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

A few build shots of the 16030:

 

[Karbon74]

I am starting to warm up to DJ too
The thing is that the date wheel and DWO freak me out

I hate those finigly alignement stuff

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

I am starting to warm up to DJ too
The thing is that the date wheel and DWO freak me out

I hate those finigly alignement stuff

Alignment was easier than I thought, and if it does not align it is easy to lift the DWO and try again. A tip: align the "3"s as they have a line in the middle of the number... it's a bit easier. Incidentally, I had a Gen 1603, which had a slightly off-center date wheel and even a misaligned coronet... by searching online, I found quite a few linen dials 1603s with misaligned coronets!

Also, the good thing about the NH35 is that the gray holder give plenty of clearance for a DWO... no spacer needed! The most difficult part has been finding DJ (minute) hands that clear the high applied makers... not a problem we are accustomed to with our 1016 builds

 

[Karbon74]

do you remove the DW to align? or do you do it directly on the movement?

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

do you remove the DW to align? or do you do it directly on the movement?

Directly on the movement - a 2-minute task.

 

[Karbon74]

just saw the pic. seems not so hard.
At least I won't have to replace the setting lever jumper and dismantle the whole date works

 

[automatico]

"I had a Gen 1603, which had a slightly off-center date wheel and even a misaligned coronet...by searching online, I found quite a few linen dials 1603s with misaligned coronets!"

The 'date jumpers' on 15xx Rlx date movements have an eccentric screw that holds the DW in position and it can be turned with a screwdriver to center the DW in the window.
The dial maker may have cranked out a batch of linen dials like yours by not having the dial feet soldered in the proper location on the dial blank. This would cause the date window and coronet to be out of whack. The applied markers were probably out a little bit too.

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

"I had a Gen 1603, which had a slightly off-center date wheel and even a misaligned coronet...by searching online, I found quite a few linen dials 1603s with misaligned coronets!"

The 'date jumpers' on 15xx Rlx date movements have an eccentric screw that holds the DW in position and it can be turned with a screwdriver to center the DW in the window.
The dial maker may have cranked out a batch of linen dials like yours by not having the dial feet soldered in the proper location on the dial blank. This would cause the date window and coronet to be out of whack. The applied markers were probably out a little bit too.

Thanks for the clarification on both points - excellent information!

Regarding the date wheel positioning, the tension spring on my 1603 had lost its tension, and the transition was slow (1-2 hours around midnight) ... this lack of "snap" apparently caused the misalign as it disappeared when I had a new spring fitted (or my watchmaker knew about the eccentric screw!)

 

[dpd3672]

Gen 1603

Gotta love those end link gaps, lol

 

[qjai89]

I got some raffles parts coming in the mail. Gonna join dj builds soon!

 

[asusundevils1971]

I had this 16014 built by a member here:
Raffles DATEJUST case w cyclops
Raffles Onyx dial with gilt details
Raffles DJ Gilt Hands
Asian ETA 2824 - Edit: watch was sent back to put in a VS3135
raffles dwo
raffles jubilee bracelet with 555 end links

 

[brahmabull]

Oh boy….. another rabbit hole to go down. Can’t wait to see what you guys build….

 

[nickelodeon]

Nice thread!
I've just ordered a faded Gen Dial and a VS3135.

 

[freebalkany]

Mine says hi!
16013 with gen dial and vs3135 in a raffles case.



Next one in the pipe will be a 16000 Buckley

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

Mine says hi!
16013 with gen dial and vs3135 in a raffles case.



Next one in the pipe will be a 16000 Buckley

Nice - which case did you use, and did you have to change the crystal to get the cyclops in the right place?

 

[Replicated]

My two builds, it was a really nice experience building these:

- Raffles 2824 cases
- Raffles open link bracelets
- VS3135 movements
- Cheap hands from CousinsUK
- Genuine dials
- Upgraded crowns and tubes

Only difference is that the silver one got a "Sternkreuz 135" plexi-crystal and the gold one got a gold date wheel.

 

[freebalkany]

Nice - which case did you use, and did you have to change the crystal to get the cyclops in the right place?

Hey, I used the standard 16200 case.
I did get a new bezel from ebay (isn't as tall as the raffles one).
I also got a sternkreuz crystal for it, forgot the ref.



I'd say, it's pretty close to gen

Of course a lot of dremeling was involved: bezel, rehaut, caseback.
Honestly, a lathe would be recommended here