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The Ultimate Daytona Buying Guide (Ref. 116520/116500)

Cheeps

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Dear fellow members of RWI,

since I see many new threads by new members about the Daytona, I decided to write a guide on how to choose the suitable Daytona for you. Additionally, the current Daytona threads are close to 100 pages and I think gathering the current information available will benefit the whole community.

Please note that this guide is mainly referring to EU when it comes to modders and genuine piece prices. Also, I won’t do photo comparisons between models since they are available in other threads. I think it is safe to say that you can follow this guide since I’ve been reading all available information on Daytona, but if you want in-depth research with pictures please do your own research.
I will also include links to all the parts I’m mentioning. The links will take you to JTimes store. I am not affiliated or sponsored by him (lol) but he’s my go to TD, so I use his links. Generally, any TD can get you any watch, just FYI.

The agenda for this guide is as followed:
  1. Daytona’s worth buying on the market
  2. Decide what’s important for you and figure out your budget
  3. Different options for modding or frankening including current prices
  4. Conclusion
With that being sad, lets dive in.

1. Daytona’s worth buying on the market

There are currently two makers who build the best Daytonas. Those are either BTF or CF, with both offering either the 116520 or 116500 version of this watch.

2. Decide what’s important for you and figure out your budget

116520


For the 116520 there is still more feedback required on BTF vs CF, however I believe both versions are good ootb.

116500

In general after looking at all the feedback, BTF is said to have a better case and better pushers, whereas CF has the better hands and dial. I believe if you don't want to go the modding or frankening route CF is best ootb for both black and white dial.

3. Different options for modding or frankening, including current prices

Here it gets interesting and you now have to figure out what you want to do. If you are already happy with what I described in chapter 2, go ahead and buy whatever watch fits your needs, if not, make sure to extend your budget.

Modding means that you add other replica parts to the original watch to improve the looks of it, frankening means that you add genuine Rolex parts, also to improve the looks.

Note: in my opinion it does not make any sense to mod or franken an ARF.

116520

First you have to figure out whether you want blue (Chromalight) lume or green (Superluminova) lume. Chromalight lume dates back to watches produced after 2008/9, whereas Superluminova is the old lume. Both models linked above have Chromalight lume.

Note: If you opt for the SL lume, prices for genuine parts will be slightly cheaper, but parts like the clasp will not match the build.

Modding

Needs more feedback.

Frankening 116520

First of all, there is no limit to Franken a watch. I will only focus on what I consider to be the most important genuine parts for Frankening the 116520. Please keep in mind that the prices stated below are from my personal experience. Side note: as of January 2020, pieces like a Dial are exchange only (before it was like that on most parts of the EU except Italy). Now the regulations hit Italy too and prices are rising while parts are getting more and more scarce. As of End 2022 prices for genuine parts have increased due to the scarcity since 2020, updated.

Superluminova (prices for dial and hands outdated as I do not have the correct SL prices on hand right now, so please disregard them)

Parts I would definitely suggest getting:
  • Genuine Dial (700€ used – 1.000€ new)
  • Genuine Hands (300€ used – 350€ new)
  • Genuine Bezel: (500€ used – 800€ new)
Optional parts:
  • Genuine clasp to match the correct SL period (around 500€ but hard to get)
  • Genuine crown + tube (around 200€ – 250€)
  • Genuine crystal + gasket (around 300€)
  • Genuine chrono wheel (4130-820) to fit the chronograph seconds hand (around 120€)
  • ARF bracelet without clasp (150€ for the bracelet – 50€ for reselling the clasp)
Optional services:
  • Repolishing and rebrushing the bracelet by Tomrep makes the bracelet look extra nice
  • Servicing the 4130 movement by either red1 or dmuit
As you can see, frankening can get very expensive. Even with the basic build and used parts you would spend around 2.000€, not considering the price for your watchmaker.

Chromalight (updated)

Parts I would definitely suggest getting:
  • Genuine Dial (2.500€ used – 2.900€ new)
  • Genuine Hands (500€ used – 600€ new) note: those hands are very hard to find right now
  • Genuine Bezel: (600€ used – 900€ new)
Optional parts:
  • Genuine crown + tube (around 200€ – 250€)
  • Genuine crystal + gasket (around 300€)
  • Genuine chrono wheel (4130-820) to fit the chronograph seconds hand (around 120€)
  • ARF bracelet and clasp (150€)
Optional services:
  • Repolishing and rebrushing the bracelet by Tomrep makes the bracelet look extra nice
  • Servicing the 4130 movement by either red1 or dmuit
Same here, Chromalight prices are even higher as compared to Superluminova. But the genuine parts definitely make a huge difference in comparison to replica parts. If you want to spend that much is up to you.

116500

This version only has chromalight parts, so it gets easier on that end. However, finding genuine parts like the dial or the bezel is very hard or rather close to impossible. I only saw one sale of a 116500 bezel which went for 2.000€ used (in 2020).

Modding Light

There is a problem with the black dialed BTF version as we already learned. The current BTF sub dials are too shiny. You would have to buy CF dial from your TD. Then swap the CF dial into the BTF base and call it a day.

Depending on how important this is to you, I would probably wait for updated sub dials on the black dialed version.

For the panda version I dont think you have to do any modding. Just buy the 116500 stock.


Modding/ Frankening

As already mentioned above, genuine 116500 parts like a dial and bezel are impossible to get and will not be considered. However, you can still improve your 116500 BTF with other parts and make it as good as it can get:
  • Genuine Coronet from donor dial on the CF dial (~100€)
  • Genuine Hands (500€ used – 600€ new) note: those hands are very hard to find right now
  • Genuine crown + tube (around 200€ – 250€)
  • Genuine crystal + gasket (around 300€)
  • Genuine chrono wheel (4130-820) to fit the chronograph seconds hand (around 120€)
Optional services:
  • Repolishing and rebrushing the bracelet by Tomrep makes the bracelet look extra nice
  • Servicing the 4130 movement by either red1 or dmuit
With this build the watch is as good as it gets without going for a full gen movement or even bracelet. Again, it depends on you how much you plan on spending. I went for this route with the full optional services since the Daytona is by far my grail watch.

4. Conclusion

It all depends on what you want from your rep. For the 116520, both makers offer a great value for what it is.

For the 116500 however I believe going the BTF route (for Panda) is the best out of the box. If you want to go further you can get an 116500 CF dial when going black dial or prepare your wallet.

If you want to reach out to any of the modders/ watchmakers I mentioned, their details are here:
  • Domi (dmuit): I tend to use Domis services for all the frankening I do since he lives in driving distance to me and I don’t like shipping expensive stuff. Here is his RWI profile: https://forum.replica-watch.info/member/14529-dmuit
  • Red1: He recently serviced my Daytona, highly recommended: https://forum.replica-watch.info/member/100224-red1
  • Tomrep: He does not have an RWI account and prefers to be contacted via WhatsApp. Note: he is neither trusted nor untrusted on RWI and does not have his own section. His number: +49 1520 2031421 (he told me to post it here)
  • Apart from that I want to emphasize that those are only the people that I specifically was in touch with. There are more watchmakers and modders in the EU who can perform the same services for you
With that being said, I joined RWI a year ago with the plan of getting a Daytona rep. During this time the threads were all not too long and it was somewhat easy to get an idea of what’s happening in the Daytona world.

Nowadays it is getting harder and harder to keep an overview with 5 different threads going on with all around 50 – 100 pages long. I summarized all the information I gathered in my head since the last year and I hope this guide summarizes all the findings without it being too long.

So long,
Cheeps
 
Last edited:

srhoque

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28/11/18
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Great write-up Mate!! This article along with MScott dial comparison articles should be sticky and the first read for anyone going down the Daytona Mod/Franken route.

Good job again and appreciate your contribution here!!
 

Adrenix

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Great post. I joined for the exactly the same reason but bought a 5 digit sub instead!
 
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SOLEX

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Great work, whoever is on the fence on the Daytona read this carefully and have no fear, it is an awesome rep in any version.

I am curious who can do Daytona work in the USA if it is just a swap of parts (dial, bezel etc.) and/or movement servicing.
 
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Countess Koscowicz

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Quality write up- Daytonas have never been my thing but this is an excellent guide for anyone looking to purchase and or mod a recent Daytona rep!
 

Suux88

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Excellent write up
Wish I had this information some months back ago
 

nennca

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Great info bro. This should definitely be a sticky. All you need to improve your Daytona in just one page instead of reading through tens of them! :drinks_cheers:
 
Last edited:

M4STERBATUR

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Thank you very much.
I've been gathering this exact info for close to 2 months.
OP is making it easier for new Daytona lovers.



Sent from my iPhone using RWI
 

M4STERBATUR

Getting To Know The Place
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Thank you very much.
I've been gathering this exact info for close to 2 months.
OP is making it easier for new Daytona lovers.
I wish someone can do this for GMT.


Sent from the RWI App
 
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dashing

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Cheeps Great summary to the multiple mega threads!

Curious, what is your opinion on the rep crystals?

While it was mentioned in some threads that the ARF has better crystal, not many people do the crystal swap between ARF and NOOB.
Would it be that the differences are negligible, and both are on par?
 

Cheeps

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Cheeps Great summary to the multiple mega threads!

Curious, what is your opinion on the rep crystals?

While it was mentioned in some threads that the ARF has better crystal, not many people do the crystal swap between ARF and NOOB.
Would it be that the differences are negligible, and both are on par?

I don’t think the difference between either noob or arf is too big. You can see the coronet @6 on both the crystals. If you have the arf crystal you can swap it but I wouldn’t put too much effort in it.
 

Donatello89

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Hey this is exactly the info i have been looking for, minus the only thing left to know... where i can buy an ARF rep? Could someone please point me in thw right direction? And just before i buy a daytona..., is there any reason i should get a different rolex model thats a all round better rep? Thanks guys
 

Cheeps

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Hey this is exactly the info i have been looking for, minus the only thing left to know... where i can buy an ARF rep? Could someone please point me in thw right direction? And just before i buy a daytona..., is there any reason i should get a different rolex model thats a all round better rep? Thanks guys

Check out the trusted dealer section. You can order from there.

to your second question: it’s up to you.
 
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