The 34mm thread...the red-haired stepchild of the Oyster Perpetual family.

[dpd3672]

It is hard to describe quantitatively but the gen cases seem to flow organically. The lines are pleasing to the eyes, whatever the models

The Raffles cases always look like sculpting blanks.

The biggest "tell" for me on a vintage Rolex is the lug from the side. Gen always has a smooth, graceful, narrow "point" that somehow never seems sharp to the touch. Reps rarely nail this detail, and always feel too thick or too sharp.

 

[Karbon74]

For me it’s the small uplift at the end of the lugs when seen from the top, and the « bulge » where the lugs start to curve down when seen from the side. The gen has a gentler more gradual curve. It’s like a natural curve vs a geometric curve

 

[dpd3672]

For me it’s the small uplift at the end of the lugs when seen from the top, and the « bulge » where the lugs start to curve down when seen from the side. The gen has a gentler more gradual curve. It’s like a natural curve vs a geometric curve

I'm starting to wonder now how much was done by hand at the original factory. You can only machine stuff so much with jigs in the days before CNC machining, I suspect much of the finishing work was done the old-fashioned way.

 

[Karbon74]

I'm starting to wonder now how much was done by hand at the original factory. You can only machine stuff so much with jigs in the days before CNC machining, I suspect much of the finishing work was done the old-fashioned way.

I think I read that it actually was hand finished until some point

 

[Karbon74]

I like the modern watches for the bling factor and the engineering precision.

But there is something about the vintage Rolex, the light hollow bracelets, the soft sleek lines and the patina of time.

 

[dpd3672]

I like the modern watches for the bling factor and the engineering precision.

But there is something about the vintage Rolex, the light hollow bracelets, the soft sleek lines and the patina of time.

I have some modern watches that I like for various reasons, but watches are obsolete technology. Vintage...when watches were at the apex of design, manufacturing, and utility, are what makes my heart skip a beat.

I've got some modern watches, but I keep finding myself drawn back to the 4 (and sometimes 5) digit Rolex watches, and the other contemporary designs by their competitors. I can't actually think of a watch made in the last 20 years that I prefer to the same model from eariler in the line.

 

[C1957V]

Enlarge the internal diameter of the stock rafflesdial 34mm case bezel (using a dremel) to make it fit a plexi

I think this should fit the stock tube without modification. Get the "116234 silver" one

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007501126228.html

Good advice thanks...

Expanding the ID of the bezel is definitely a wallet friendlier option than purchasing a GEN bezel.

I will also have a look at the suggested Crown. I have used Athaya for SUB and Explorer builds in the past and they have been pretty good, but always looking for good parts to use for builds.

Of note, there were some posts here and on RWG stating that the GS PA459-37 didn't fit the Raffles 34mm case (ID of the Crystal was too small). I guess I will just have to wait until it arrives to test for myself. In the event that is is a no-go I can use Clarks 25-12 (T-12).

Have you had any luck at enlarging a crystal ID without destroying it?

Thanks for your advice/assistance... I've only been at this about a year.

 

[Reaps]

I like raffles but I can't the deep dish rehaut on all of their models

 

[pompompurin]

Have you had any luck at enlarging a crystal ID without destroying it?

Give the case set to a machinist with a lathe to increase the internal diameter of the bezel and rehaut. That is the best way to do it.

If you only plan to use a dremel, then you got to hold them by hand and make many circular motions to gradually shave the metal. This is risky because the dremel can slip easily

 

[pompompurin]

I like raffles but I can't the deep dish rehaut on all of their models

their 14060/ 16610 submariner cases have this serious problem. They don't even seem to fit gen-spec crystals, and their lugs and very unsightly. It looks more like rafflesdial ordered a bunch of homage sub cases and slapped a replica rolex crown on it.

The rehaut on their 36mm and 34mm cases are fine, in my opinion and compared to my gen

 

[C1957V]

Give the case set to a machinist with a lathe to increase the internal diameter of the bezel and rehaut. That is the best way to do it.

If you only plan to use a dremel, then you got to hold them by hand and make many circular motions to gradually shave the metal. This is risky because the dremel can slip easily

Yes, I understand how to enlarge the rehaut using a dremel. I have done the hand held dremeling on Raffles 36mm cases for EXPL dials with a chapter ring near the outer edge of the dial. Plan to do same with the bezel.

I meant, have you enlarged the inner diameter of an acrylic crystal to fit on a case? Is there a way to go about it without destroying it. Sorry, this may be a noob question.

Thank you

 

[pompompurin]

have you enlarged the inner diameter of an acrylic crystal to fit on a case?

Never tried. Even if you can, it could cause micro cracks on the plexi. Plexi isn't that strong. If you must, i would do sandpaper sanding by hand but you will need to polish the plexi afterwards to get a clear finish.

I would just settle for a clarks 25 12

 

[johnchpark]

The Raffles cases are very good, but they do benefit from reshaping. Generally speaking, to my eye, the vintage cases offered tend to run a bit "thick" compared to gen cases. This might be by design, since gen cases had small variations from model to model, year to year, and since it's easier to remove metal than add it, it makes sense. I think there's a photo higher in the thread showing gen and Raffles cases side by side.

EDIT: This is the photo. The two cases on the left are gen 5500/1002 cases. The one on the right is a Raffles case unmodified.




You can see that even the gen cases have a little variation (although some may be due to wear/polishing over the years). The case in the center has the thinnest lugs, the Raffles on the right is the thickest, and the one on the left is in-between. The insides of the cases contain precise pieces...the outsides are a lot more open to variations.

Gotcha. So looks like I'm going to have to thin down the lugs, like his 36mm cases.

Btw, is there any way to resolve the white ring around the crystal/rehaut? Raffles cases with stock crystals always have a visible white 'halo' ring around the outer edge of the crystal when you look straight down at it.
Is going acrylic crystal the only solution?

 

[Dumbellbee]

Hi everyone, I have a question. Does the 34mm Raffles case need to be re-tap to fit the Athaya 530 tube crown?

 

[d4rkiez]

Went smaller today.

Was this a 34mm case? Where did you manage to get a 27mm albino dial?

 

[fnfalguy]

Was this a 34mm case? Where did you manage to get a 27mm albino dial?

You know what, you are 100% correct. I was mistaken on its size as it was hanging out next to a Pam and IWC.

To try and make up for it, I wore a definitive 34mm today.