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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

dpd3672

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every time I pick it up, I put it on...
then I remove it and wear the 1016 😅

the 1016 totally killed the game for me. It's so low profile and light.
Yeah, I don't know if it's the size or the simplicity...I just love a "luxury" watch that doesn't scream "LUXURY!!!" Almost no one notices a 1016.

One of the reasons my gen Air King 1002 has always been near the top of the list. It looks like a Timex from a sale table at a Department store, lol.

And another reason that the 34mm is always a soft spot for me, and the 36mm is when I feel like an "upgrade." I love a Sub or even a Panerai or Big Pilot, but those are for specific situations, not everyday (although the 551X series is close).
 

316lad

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Attempting to make the lume a little less translucent, more sold looking. I really wsnt to add some serifs to the indices as well. It's a throw away dial as it's far from accurate - the 3,6,9 styling are those from a Super Precision dial - never used on the 1016 and just adding some general dust and detritus to the whole.
Results from the kitchen this evening after 18:00 !
 
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dpd3672

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Found some alternates to our cases of choice (Raffles, TC, etc). All have lug holes drilled all the way through, and some are very attractive prices. Some of these might be the same case from different sellers, I didn't scrutinize them all, and one has a (bad) Datejust fluted bezel...but if you happen to have bezels on hand, or are ok with reworking them, it's an option.







None seem to have Rolex crowns or caseback engravings, they're sterile, and the bezels are just ok, but the lugs are actually a bit more gen than the unmodified Raffles case, imo.

Since many are replacing bezels and crystals and crowns anyway, and engraving isn't too hard to do (I'll be available to engrave any day now, going to do some of my own Raffles cases first to fine tune the technique, with others doing saltwater and photo etching for others and on their own), it's maybe the right option for some builds, especially on a budget.

I'm curious how cheaply one can actually build a passable rep 1016. With a 2813 or A2824 costing about $15-30, these cases going for about $20 or less, and a waterslide/photoresist dial going for almost free, once it's all set up, a good 1016 might actually come in for about $50, more or less.

So if one of these cases passes consensus approval (assuming, of course, some case work is done), what are your thoughts on this build? Again, not going for perfection, just a solid, no apologies, "how cheap can I build this and not have embarrassing tells from 6 feet away?" daily driver, beater.

1. Case ~$20 (from above list, $18 is the cheapest)
2. Crown/tube $1 or here, cheaper if bought in bulk (like $.40 per crown/tube)
3. Hands...tons of options on AliX for $2-3 per set. This isn't a bad option. I use these on a lot of builds, which work out to about $.50/set.
4. $4 here, or upgrade Crystal $15 (Clarks or Sternkruz or whatever you can get cheaply, or live with the sapphire that comes with the case, it's not awful. You could pop off the cyclops with a razor blade until you upgrade.
5. Movement $13 2813 or $21 2824
6. Dial $1-5 (Waterslide decal + Brass Blank + lume) or even Raffles ($35) if you want to splurge.
7. Nato or leather Strap (any number of $1, $2 up to ~$10 straps from AliX). Add a Rep Rolex buckle if unbranded leather bothers you for $3. You can get an absolute shitter Jubilee for $5 if you can stand to look at the clasp, lol)
8. Case engraving (free to $100, depending on how "DIY" you are)
9. Work required would be any case shaping, bezel and crystal tweaking or replacement, case engraving, making the dial from scratch, engraving, and assembly.

I'm getting under $40 at the minimum...maybe a hair under if the AliX coupons knock a buck or two off the order. For a complete, working, 1016 with a decent movement and a bit of passionate working of the various components...this is not intended for a purist, but for a builder that likes to add the perfection himself, rather than buying it. Reasonable, "bang for the buck" upgrades (2824 or NH38 movement, Raffles crown and dial, Raffles bracelet so you can skip the lug engraving) would add about $100, give or take.

Thoughts from my fellow enthusiasts? Anything I'm not seeing on these cases? I'm on the verge of ordering a few to play with, give me a green or red light, lol!
 
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Karbon74

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funny how we search the same on AliX 😂

I was looking at these to do Seiko mod reps with the 1016 vintage treatment, to test the waters on ebay. @Geonor

The point being to practice various techniques on the cheap and let them go with a small markup to the eBay crowd taht won't buy a 300-400€ Rolex vintage rep anyway

The key advantage I see from Raffles...it's a true and tested road. You know that you will end up with something nice without roadblocks. I have been experimebting AliX cases with the Moonswatches. I can say that they don't have the same manufacturing rigor as Raffles. Each case has its quirks and you need to adjust
 

dpd3672

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funny how we search the same on AliX 😂

I was looking at these to do Seiko mod reps with the 1016 vintage treatment, to test the waters on ebay. @Geonor

The point being to practice various techniques on the cheap and let them go with a small markup to the eBay crowd taht won't buy a 300-400€ Rolex vintage rep anyway

The key advantage I see from Raffles...it's a true and tested road. You know that you will end up with something nice without roadblocks. I have been experimebting AliX cases with the Moonswatches. I can say that they don't have the same manufacturing rigor as Raffles. Each case has its quirks and you need to adjust
Looking at the cases, I'm wondering if they're not unbranded Raffles cases...like from the same factory, minus the Rolex branding. I don't imagine Ken has an exclusive contract with the manufacturer.

Like the sterile cases he sells.

Maybe factory seconds or overruns, but for under $20, I'm going to pick a few up to see what I get. I can't imagine I'd have a hard time selling a custom vintage 1016 rep for the $50 or so I have into it on the M2M forums here, lol.

I think I'll order 5 and see what I get.
 
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Karbon74

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One thing about Raffles.
I see they list Omega dials and buckles but no case.
I wonder where to find cases that go with his Seamaster dials
 

dpd3672

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One thing about Raffles.
I see they list Omega dials and buckles but no case.
I wonder where to find cases that go with his Seamaster dials
Maybe for gen cases. I look at them once in a while on Ebay, although they don't seem to be too cheap, relative to the number of broken Omegas they sell.

He does sell a SMP kit, but that's all I've seen. The dials he has are mostly vintage.

It's odd he doesn't offer a Railmaster, since his vintage Seamaster dials are similar in style and era.
 
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1016 lover

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Found some alternates to our cases of choice (Raffles, TC, etc). All have lug holes drilled all the way through, and some are very attractive prices. Some of these might be the same case from different sellers, I didn't scrutinize them all, and one has a (bad) Datejust fluted bezel...but if you happen to have bezels on hand, or are ok with reworking them, it's an option.






None seem to have Rolex crowns or caseback engravings, they're sterile, and the bezels are just ok, but the lugs are actually a bit more gen than the unmodified Raffles case, imo.

Since many are replacing bezels and crystals and crowns anyway, and engraving isn't too hard to do (I'll be available to engrave any day now, going to do some of my own Raffles cases first to fine tune the technique, with others doing saltwater and photo etching for others and on their own), it's maybe the right option for some builds, especially on a budget.

I'm curious how cheaply one can actually build a passable rep 1016. With a 2813 or A2824 costing about $15-30, these cases going for about $20 or less, and a waterslide/photoresist dial going for almost free, once it's all set up, a good 1016 might actually come in for about $50, more or less.

So if one of these cases passes consensus approval (assuming, of course, some case work is done), what are your thoughts on this build? Again, not going for perfection, just a solid, no apologies, "how cheap can I build this and not have embarrassing tells from 6 feet away?" daily driver, beater.

1. Case ~$20 (from above list, $18 is the cheapest)
2. Crown/tube $1 or here, cheaper if bought in bulk (like $.40 per crown/tube)
3. Hands...tons of options on AliX for $2-3 per set. This isn't a bad option. I use these on a lot of builds, which work out to about $.50/set.
4. $4 here, or upgrade Crystal $15 (Clarks or Sternkruz or whatever you can get cheaply, or live with the sapphire that comes with the case, it's not awful. You could pop off the cyclops with a razor blade until you upgrade.
5. Movement $13 2813 or $21 2824
6. Dial $1-5 (Waterslide decal + Brass Blank + lume) or even Raffles ($35) if you want to splurge.
7. Nato or leather Strap (any number of $1, $2 up to ~$10 straps from AliX). Add a Rep Rolex buckle if unbranded leather bothers you for $3. You can get an absolute shitter Jubilee for $5 if you can stand to look at the clasp, lol)
8. Case engraving (free to $100, depending on how "DIY" you are)
9. Work required would be any case shaping, bezel and crystal tweaking or replacement, case engraving, making the dial from scratch, engraving, and assembly.

I'm getting under $40 at the minimum...maybe a hair under if the AliX coupons knock a buck or two off the order. For a complete, working, 1016 with a decent movement and a bit of passionate working of the various components...this is not intended for a purist, but for a builder that likes to add the perfection himself, rather than buying it. Reasonable, "bang for the buck" upgrades (2824 or NH38 movement, Raffles crown and dial, Raffles bracelet so you can skip the lug engraving) would add about $100, give or take.

Thoughts from my fellow enthusiasts? Anything I'm not seeing on these cases? I'm on the verge of ordering a few to play with, give me a green or red light, lol!
I gave a try to those and its a no go if you want to have a gen spec crystal, only th third linkyou gave is ok if you want to have a t21 or a t22, thé middile case diameter is smaller.....

The build if thé date model IS pretty cool, thé IS a gasket in the bezel assembly, surprising....
 

dpd3672

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I gave a try to those and its a no go if you want to have a gen spec crystal, only th third linkyou gave is ok if you want to have a t21 or a t22, thé middile case diameter is smaller.....

The build if thé date model IS pretty cool, thé IS a gasket in the bezel assembly, surprising....
I don't understand "the middle case diameter is smaller." Do you mean the opening for the dial, inside the rehaut?
 

Karbon74

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Karbon74

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I don't understand "the middle case diameter is smaller." Do you mean the opening for the dial, inside the rehaut?
I think he refers to where the crystal sits. If you can't put a ST crystal, then you can't use his bezels either. So you are stuck with stock.
No issue though if the point is a Ryanair/Spirit Airlines level build 😅
 

dpd3672

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I think he refers to where the crystal sits. If you can't put a ST crystal, then you can't use his bezels either. So you are stuck with stock.
No issue though if the point is a Ryanair/Spirit Airlines level build 😅
How bad is it? If it's less than a mm, it might be worth a little sanding. More than that and maybe not worth the trouble.
 

Karbon74

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He says "smaller"
so sanding won't help.
But hey, let's build a cheapo seikexplorer 1016 rep with the full vintage treatment

I will do it too, I swear 😁
 
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dpd3672

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He says "smaller"
so sanding won't help.
But hey, let's build a cheapo seikexplorer 1016 rep with the full vintage treatment

I will do it too, I swear 😁
I'm a sucker for a project, lol, in for one, although at the rate I'm taking on projects vs the rate I'm finishing them, it may be 2030 before it's wearable, lol.
 
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Karbon74

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yeah. he sells vintage dials but only the modern cases

this looks like a contender
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dial size would fit
found it 😍
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