Swiss ETA 2836/2834 vs Yuki/SH/SA 3135 (Durability)

[gamba66]

Hi guys,

Quick question here: Would a stock swiss eta 2834 or 2836 be more reliable and durable than a Yuki/SH/SA 3135 counterpart, even when modified with gen parts?

I have been considering using a yuki or similiar for my franken 18239 because it would enable me to use gen hands, day and datewheels versus just a gen dial on the eta. (If anybody knows if its possible to mod the gen daydate hands to fit the eta, please let me know)

But after reading into the 3135 I think a swiss eta would be alot more durable and reliable?

Many say 3135 clone movements need to be frankened and serviced to work reliable but are they then more reliable than a standard swiss eta even with all the gen parts? The 3135 would still be a chinese made lower quality movement albeit with some genuine parts?

Just to clarify I am talking serviced genuine Swiss ETA versus Modified/Frankened and serviced SH/SA/Yuki 3135

I am thinking soft rep metal vs hard genuine metal (frankened 3135) and overall build quality would still be less in terms if durability and reliability.

Another Point would be service life. Do Standard watchmakers even service the 3135 clones or is it only a handful of modders on these boards? With a eta watch you can nearly go to any watchmaker around the world if you get them to service your franken.

I am looking forward to your replies, thank you

 

[ShovelnTC]

I think you have already answered the question and that is also the way I think.

There are good reasons for going 3135 but even so I don't have any watches with the 3135 for the reasons you have noted.

IMHO only of course.

 

[ssouthall6]

A serviced Swiss movement will always be better than a serviced Chinese movement. Every non-Rolex watch I own pretty much has had an eta transplant. You especially notice the difference on 7750 vs a7750 but you can still mess up the gear train inadvertently on the Swiss so they ain't bulletproof. But they are better without a doubt.

With Rolex I always buy with sa3135 or sh3135. My watchmaker, who is active here, services them. Many guys on here will not only service but replace parts. The knowledge on here is amazing. For example, most people think that you can't switch gen parts on the sa3135, but @maxracingshox proved that by grinding the jewel you can put gen rolex driving and reversing wheels on the sa3135. The sa3135 had lots of bad press because noob had a load of old v1 stock which they put into the v6s release. These had a weak stem and were badly assembled - dirty and over or under oiled. The weak stem was fixed in the v2 and most of the time this is the version you see in the watches we buy today. This is the problem you also see on the sh3135. Jf remove the plate to engrave and then it is reassembled in conditions that aren't really suitable for assembling a watch.

With the sa3135 and sh3135 you get the gen functionality - ie the turning of the crown is same as genuine rolex. When you service these moments most of the time they are absolutely fine, no more or less reliable than Asian etas.

I have 3 sa3135's currently and none have given me any trouble. One is four years old and still running strong after a service. They aren't bad movements at all but again I re-iterate, getting them in the ultrasonic cleaner, re-oiled and re-assembly by someone who actually knows what they are doing is essential for any Chinese replica regardless of movement.




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[Omagad]

A serviced Swiss movement will always be better than a serviced Chinese movement. Every non-Rolex watch I own pretty much has had an eta transplant. You especially notice the difference on 7750 vs a7750 but you can still mess up the gear train inadvertently on the Swiss so they ain't bulletproof. But they are better without a doubt.

With Rolex I always buy with sa3135 or sh3135. My watchmaker, who is active here, services them. Many guys on here will not only service but replace parts. The knowledge on here is amazing. For example, most people think that you can't switch gen parts on the sa3135, but @maxracingshox proved that by grinding the jewel you can put gen rolex driving and reversing wheels on the sa3135. The sa3135 had lots of bad press because noob had a load of old v1 stock which they put into the v6s release. These had a weak stem and were badly assembled - dirty and over or under oiled. The weak stem was fixed in the v2 and most of the time this is the version you see in the watches we buy today. This is the problem you also see on the sh3135. Jf remove the plate to engrave and then it is reassembled in conditions that aren't really suitable for assembling a watch.

With the sa3135 and sh3135 you get the gen functionality - ie the turning of the crown is same as genuine rolex. When you service these moments most of the time they are absolutely fine, no more or less reliable than Asian etas.

I have 3 sa3135's currently and none have given me any trouble. One is four years old and still running strong after a service. They aren't bad movements at all but again I re-iterate, getting them in the ultrasonic cleaner, re-oiled and re-assembly by someone who actually knows what they are doing is essential for any Chinese replica regardless of movement.

But what if your SA3135 dies ? What can you do ?

 

[Versaceboy54]

Bro I don't think the yuki would work bc you need a day function which the yuki doesn't have.

Unless it can be modded some how?


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[nightwalk]

Toss it out

 

[ssouthall6]

But what if your SA3135 dies ? What can you do ?

Define 'dies'?

As I've said, we've already exposed the myth that you can't use any gen parts on them. You can, it's been recently proven. Many watchsmiths or modders on here are happy to work on the sa3135 now.

If the movement is beyond repair I would email my TD and ask for a new one. I've already asked him before because I wanted to put one in a TC. He was happy to supply it.

Or if I have enough spare money I contact @Tickleshoes and buy an sh3135 already serviced to replace it.

If my Asian eta died I would contact my watchsmith and ask for a swiss eta to replace it so this is pretty normal for me.

If you are talking about cheap shitty reps then that's one thing but most of my watches are heavily frankened, and this was what the OP was alluding to. In that instance why not pay a bit more for gen functions?


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[Omagad]

Define 'dies'?

As I've said, we've already exposed the myth that you can't use any gen parts on them. You can, it's been recently proven. Many watchsmiths or modders on here are happy to work on the sa3135 now.

If the movement is beyond repair I would email my TD and ask for a new one. I've already asked him before because I wanted to put one in a TC. He was happy to supply it.

Or if I have enough spare money I contact @Tickleshoes and buy an sh3135 already serviced to replace it.

If my Asian eta died I would contact my watchsmith and ask for a swiss eta to replace it so this is pretty normal for me.

If you are talking about cheap shitty reps then that's one thing but most of my watches are heavily frankened, and this was what the OP was alluding to. In that instance why not pay a bit more for gen functions?

Ok then we agree.

Thanks for helping people to understand all that.

 

[maxracingshox]

A serviced Swiss movement will always be better than a serviced Chinese movement. Every non-Rolex watch I own pretty much has had an eta transplant. You especially notice the difference on 7750 vs a7750 but you can still mess up the gear train inadvertently on the Swiss so they ain't bulletproof. But they are better without a doubt.

With Rolex I always buy with sa3135 or sh3135. My watchmaker, who is active here, services them. Many guys on here will not only service but replace parts. The knowledge on here is amazing. For example, most people think that you can't switch gen parts on the sa3135, but @maxracingshox proved that by grinding the jewel you can put gen rolex driving and reversing wheels on the sa3135. The sa3135 had lots of bad press because noob had a load of old v1 stock which they put into the v6s release. These had a weak stem and were badly assembled - dirty and over or under oiled. The weak stem was fixed in the v2 and most of the time this is the version you see in the watches we buy today. This is the problem you also see on the sh3135. Jf remove the plate to engrave and then it is reassembled in conditions that aren't really suitable for assembling a watch.

With the sa3135 and sh3135 you get the gen functionality - ie the turning of the crown is same as genuine rolex. When you service these moments most of the time they are absolutely fine, no more or less reliable than Asian etas.

I have 3 sa3135's currently and none have given me any trouble. One is four years old and still running strong after a service. They aren't bad movements at all but again I re-iterate, getting them in the ultrasonic cleaner, re-oiled and re-assembly by someone who actually knows what they are doing is essential for any Chinese replica regardless of movement.




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I couldn't agree more.
The only difference between 3135 and eta clones is the availability and cost of replacement parts in the event of a failure.
The SH/yuki is no doubt the winner in any comparison to the SA variant as I showed pretty much in my thread and many others have before, but I still like both movements.

Edit: Any 3135 route you go is more expensive than the eta way. 3135 reps are for passionate people, period.

 

[gamba66]

Bro I don't think the yuki would work bc you need a day function which the yuki doesn't have.

Unless it can be modded some how?


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Oh I assumed there were versions with a Day function? Anyone care to chime in?

Its still very interesting to read some first-hand experiences.

I couldn't agree more.
The only difference between 3135 and eta clones is the availability and cost of replacement parts in the event of a failure.
The SH/yuki is no doubt the winner in any comparison to the SA variant as I showed pretty much in my thread and many others have before, but I still like both movements.

Edit: Any 3135 route you go is more expensive than the eta way. 3135 reps are for passionate people, period.

Cost-factor was never a point I considered, if I am going for the best I do not care about the cost associated. Thats why in my original post I mentioned serviced and frankened 3135 clone (read that it costs between 600 and 1000 dollars) because I already assumed this would be necessary to get a reliable movement.

I am strictly talking reliability and durability. I am thinking what if I want to have this watch fixed or serviced a few years in the future? Obviously the modders here are very very good (imo better than many in my city) but alot of them come and go due to a multitude of reasons and also you would be dependant on these.

It seems while the SH/Yuki 3135 offers great advantages (compability to gen parts) it is still a class below a Genuine Swiss ETA in terms of Reliability, service-friendliness (as any watchmaker can service them) and build quality (quality of the rep metal and assembly).

Thank you everyone for your insightful comments they helped to clear up alot of questions I had!

Thank you @ssouthall6 for your objective and thorough explanation

I greatly appreciate any upcoming input!

 

[Versaceboy54]

No unfortunately it's a completely different movement.

You got me curious though so I looked it up and found a posting on watchtalk about someone asking if he could convert his dj (3135) to dd (3035,3155) and was told it's not possible because of different movement plate thickness and the need to add extra gears and bridges to make a day function.

Still I would ask one of our amazing modders maybe it's possible that they can do it? For reference I know mike can convert the 3135 to 3185 for the added gmt function so maybe it's possible.




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[pompompurin]

In terms of cost of repair, spare parts availability and spare part cost..
2824-2 / 2836-2 <<<<<<<[Yuki is more expensive in every way]<<<<<<< Yuki 3135

The only reason why I have a Yuki 3135 in my TC is because I don't want to cut off the dial feet from a gen rolex dial.

In my opinion and experience, a serviced 2824-2 and 2836-2 are less prone to problems than a Yuki 3135 in many ways:
1. The current yuki 3135 batch doesn't seem to like gen date disc.. unless you start sanding the gen date disc and make it thinner (because the date disc frequently pops out due to not enough clearance)
2. The total extra cost needed to swap gen Rolex parts and make the yuki reliable (e.g. the date wheel for date change durability, reverse wheels, certain pinions, etc...) with mike's servicing cost me $500 originally (excluding the movement)
3. The yuki 3135 isn;t entirely compatible with gen rolex parts, it is more like 90% compatible so if certain parts are screwed (like what happened to my first yuki), then you have to buy a new one. ETA parts are available everywhere on the other hand (hell, you could even buy a new balance or mainplate easily)

Believe me if I could find a way to save those dial feet from a 2824-2 movement, then I would have happily done so and use a 2824-2 with H4 pinions

I have seen gen 3135 being converted into day-date, e.g.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-3135-...nd-Dial-Double-Quickset-Convert-/332122963987

@gamba66 I don't recommend converting a yuki 3135 into day-date... the watch case that you will be using for your daydate build will not likely be made out of precious metal, so there is no point in dumping money into a steel day-date franken

It cost $600 to convert a Yuki 3135 into 3185 with extra gen parts. Think that is around the approximate ballpark/price to convert a yuki 3135 into daydate

 

[rolexdd1]

In the end for me reliability outweighs crown position and winding functionality. If ETA is goof enough for IWC, Breitling, Tudor and even Hublot, then it's good enough for me. Aesthetics/tell wise the SH and SA movements are in theory more accurate. Most people including myself from distance (which is the only length you ever really see anyone's watch from) however, look for the famous 'Rolex sweep' [of the seconds hand], and a Swiss eta achieves the smoothness best. All IMHO

 

[Versaceboy54]

Cool I stand corrected I guess it can now be done!
I guess the only remaining question is if the TW Best case can fit a Yuki/SH 3135?


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[maxracingshox]

Oh I assumed there were versions with a Day function? Anyone care to chime in?

Its still very interesting to read some first-hand experiences.



Cost-factor was never a point I considered, if I am going for the best I do not care about the cost associated. Thats why in my original post I mentioned serviced and frankened 3135 clone (read that it costs between 600 and 1000 dollars) because I already assumed this would be necessary to get a reliable movement.

I am strictly talking reliability and durability. I am thinking what if I want to have this watch fixed or serviced a few years in the future? Obviously the modders here are very very good (imo better than many in my city) but alot of them come and go due to a multitude of reasons and also you would be dependant on these.

It seems while the SH/Yuki 3135 offers great advantages (compability to gen parts) it is still a class below a Genuine Swiss ETA in terms of Reliability, service-friendliness (as any watchmaker can service them) and build quality (quality of the rep metal and assembly).

Thank you everyone for your insightful comments they helped to clear up alot of questions I had!

Thank you @ssouthall6 for your objective and thorough explanation

I greatly appreciate any upcoming input!

If money is no object a frankened SH3135 or gen 3135 is the only option.
I currently have about € 1100 in my SH3132 Explorer and it's worth every penny.
Gen Etas are superb movements, but lack gen functionality, so this option is obsolete to me.
I am sure you could convert a yuki/SH to a 3155 day date, but have never done it myself. @misiekped is the man in this case.

 

[nightwalk]

In terms of cost of repair, spare parts availability and spare part cost..
2824-2 / 2836-2 <<<<<<<[Yuki is more expensive in every way]<<<<<<< Yuki 3135

The only reason why I have a Yuki 3135 in my TC is because I don't want to cut off the dial feet from a gen rolex dial.

In my opinion and experience, a serviced 2824-2 and 2836-2 are less prone to problems than a Yuki 3135 in many ways:
1. The current yuki 3135 batch doesn't seem to like gen date disc.. unless you start sanding the gen date disc and make it thinner (because the date disc frequently pops out due to not enough clearance)
2. The total extra cost needed to swap gen Rolex parts and make the yuki reliable (e.g. the date wheel for date change durability, reverse wheels, certain pinions, etc...) with mike's servicing cost me $500 originally (excluding the movement)
3. The yuki 3135 isn;t entirely compatible with gen rolex parts, it is more like 90% compatible so if certain parts are screwed (like what happened to my first yuki), then you have to buy a new one. ETA parts are available everywhere on the other hand (hell, you could even buy a new balance or mainplate easily)

Believe me if I could find a way to save those dial feet from a 2824-2 movement, then I would have happily done so and use a 2824-2 with H4 pinions

I have seen gen 3135 being converted into day-date, e.g.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-3135-...nd-Dial-Double-Quickset-Convert-/332122963987

@gamba66 I don't recommend converting a yuki 3135 into day-date... the watch case that you will be using for your daydate build will not likely be made out of precious metal, so there is no point in dumping money into a steel day-date franken

It cost $600 to convert a Yuki 3135 into 3185 with extra gen parts. Think that is around the approximate ballpark/price to convert a yuki 3135 into daydate

Well.if this is the case noob or jf can get started to convert the 3135 to.make a reliable movement for the gmt series and make a decent ceramic bezel they would sell thousends of them.

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[FastPaced]

A serviced Swiss movement will always be better than a serviced Chinese movement. Every non-Rolex watch I own pretty much has had an eta transplant. You especially notice the difference on 7750 vs a7750 but you can still mess up the gear train inadvertently on the Swiss so they ain't bulletproof. But they are better without a doubt.

With Rolex I always buy with sa3135 or sh3135. My watchmaker, who is active here, services them. Many guys on here will not only service but replace parts. The knowledge on here is amazing. For example, most people think that you can't switch gen parts on the sa3135, but @maxracingshox proved that by grinding the jewel you can put gen rolex driving and reversing wheels on the sa3135. The sa3135 had lots of bad press because noob had a load of old v1 stock which they put into the v6s release. These had a weak stem and were badly assembled - dirty and over or under oiled. The weak stem was fixed in the v2 and most of the time this is the version you see in the watches we buy today. This is the problem you also see on the sh3135. Jf remove the plate to engrave and then it is reassembled in conditions that aren't really suitable for assembling a watch.

With the sa3135 and sh3135 you get the gen functionality - ie the turning of the crown is same as genuine rolex. When you service these moments most of the time they are absolutely fine, no more or less reliable than Asian etas.

I have 3 sa3135's currently and none have given me any trouble. One is four years old and still running strong after a service. They aren't bad movements at all but again I re-iterate, getting them in the ultrasonic cleaner, re-oiled and re-assembly by someone who actually knows what they are doing is essential for any Chinese replica regardless of movement.




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I have to say I agree with this 100% but that is just my 2 cents

 

[gamba66]

It ultimately comes down to accuracy to genuine (yuki sh/sa 3135) vs reliability, cost and repairibility (swiss eta). So in either case it would be a compromise except if you go genuine 3135.

Godkillers excellent post made clear that the 3135 clones are only up to 90 percent replacable with gen parts which could result in a totail failure, even if most parts are frankened.

Incase of the daydate it would only be gen day/datewheel compability and the turning of the crown in the right direction, which IMO are not that major factors. I think crown height isnt an issue for the dj/dd. Also genuine hands can be fitted on a swiss eta supposely but I havent found a tutorial yet. With a modified movement ring the gen daydate dials fit and do not have to have their feet cut.

If I had a genuine whitegold case I would get a gen movement instead of a 3135 clone. I have seen gen 3135 for 1.700 usd sold before. The cost difference to a frankened and serviced 3135 clone wouldnt be worth it imo.

In any case, no matter accurate the 3135 clones may be, I would personally choose a gen swiss eta over the clone because I wouldnt want to sacrifice reliability and have the possibility to repair/service the watch (by any watchmaker and not just the forum modders) in the next 5 to 10 years.

But I understand people that want to have a more accurate representation of their favorite watch especially in the case of the subs and yachtmasters.

 

[watchservicesny]

Sh/yuki 3135 could be converted to 3155 as the gen 3155 use 3135 mainplate as a base
Several parts has to be replaced and add it to get the date day functionality, but is possible and I done it before
Question is if the rep case will take the movement? As the day plate is larger then standard sh date plate


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[watchservicesny]

Sh/yuki 3135 could be converted to 3155 as the gen 3155 use 3135 mainplate as a base
Several parts has to be replaced and add it to get the date day functionality, but is possible and I done it before
Question is if the rep case will take the movement? As the day plate is larger then standard sh date plate


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