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Stuck Caseback – ARF Rolex Submariner 116610LN w/ GEN ETA 2824 Stopped Working – Need Advice

Professorman

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24/2/25
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I need some advice on getting into my ARF Submariner 116610LN to troubleshoot an issue. It was originally a Chinese movement but was upgraded to a GEN ETA 2824 Top Grade by previous owner. I bought it here and it had been running great up until this past weekend when it stopped working.

Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
  • Manual winding does nothing
  • Let it fully run down and rewound again, still nothing
  • Tried gently shaking and tapping, no signs of life
I decided to open the caseback to investigate, but I’m having trouble getting it open.
  • I removed one side of the bracelet for access
  • Tried using a rubber ball from my son’s toy room – no movement
  • Tried using 3M tape with the cap from a crazy glue bottle for grip – tape ripped apart, no rotation
  • The caseback feels torqued on very tight, more than I expected based on the youtube videos I watched.

Looking for advice on:
  • Any techniques or tools that have worked for others to get a tight ARF caseback open without damaging it
  • Once I do get it open, what should I be checking for inside the movement (GEN ETA 2824)
  • What signs would indicate the movement is dead, dirty, or has a broken part
  • If I end up needing a replacement, what’s the best place to buy a GEN ETA 2824 Top Grade movement (or a trusted clone like Sellita or ST2130 if that’s more cost-effective)

Appreciate any help or shared experiences. Trying to go step-by-step before I go down the movement replacement path.
 

Hor-Fan

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If you don’t have the proper case back wrench, you can try using a ball of duct tape, rolled up sticky side out. If it still won’t budge, you can super glue a bolt nut to the case back to wrench it off then use super solvent to remove the nut.
Once you get the case back off, inspect the balance wheel for obstructions, like a case screw lodged in the wheel well.
 
Last edited:

Bearmarketrader

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Sounds like you will need a better tool than the rubber ball to remove the case back. I find this one to work quite well. Here

If you need even more power you may need something like this (but at this cost you might as well send it off to a RWI watchsmith for repair)

Either option will require the 29.5mm adapter.
 
Last edited:

Professorman

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I was finally able to get the caseback off. I ended up super-gluing a nut to the back, then used a spanner to unscrew it. I protected the case with a microfiber cloth to avoid scratches, and it worked perfectly.


Once opened, here’s what I observed:
  • The movement isn’t running at all.
  • The mainspring barrel doesn’t appear to be moving or tensioning.
  • The rotor doesn't spin freely—it feels like it needs a little tap to get going.
  • I gently leaned the watch and had to tap it for the rotor to spin. It doesn’t rotate smoothly with gravity alone.

Based on this, I’m leaning toward replacing the movement entirely. This was a GEN ETA 2824-2 (Top Grade), and I’d rather swap in a fresh one than try to service this unless someone thinks it’s worth opening up further.

Questions:
  • What’s the best source to buy a new GEN ETA 2824-2? I’m looking for something reliable and authentic.
  • Can I install it myself? I have basic tools and decent hands but haven’t done a full movement swap before.
  • Or should I find a watchmaker to do the install and regulation?
 

Hor-Fan

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A top grade Eta is a fairly pricey movement, well worth having it serviced. Definitely sounds like your auto-winding device needs lubricating.
What happens when you manually wind the watch? Does the oscillating rotor flip around?
 
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Karbon74

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Ask @Energo

A gen eta movement is worth servicing

Cleaning and lubricating the autoworks and the keyless works is not that difficulty.
However, the price of the oils if you only will do it once is absolutely not worth it. You will die if you see how much a 2ml flask costs, and you need three types.

If you extract the movement, any watchmaker will accept to service it

You can also check out the Service Provider section to find a trusted RWI watchmaker. Don’t give this to a random modder dude
 
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Professorman

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24/2/25
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A top grade Eta is a fairly pricey movement, well worth having it serviced. Definitely sounds like your auto-winding device needs lubricating.
What happens when you manually wind the watch? Does the oscillating rotor flip around?
Yes, the rotor flip around when I wind it. Here is the video:
 

Professorman

Do not accept unsolicited offers
24/2/25
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Gen ETA Elaborate Grade
Ask @Energo

A gen eta movement is worth servicing

Cleaning and lubricating the autoworks and the keyless works is not that difficulty.
However, the price of the oils if you only will do it once is absolutely not worth it. You will die if you see how much a 2ml flask costs, and you need three types.

If you extract the movement, any watchmaker will accept to service it

You can also check out the Service Provider section to find a trusted RWI watchmaker. Don’t give this to a random modder dude
I havent figured out how to extract the movement. I havent found a good youtube video. I also have the original chiense movement, but it had some issues.
Are you recommending Energo to service it? I can reach out to him.
 

Karbon74

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I havent figured out how to extract the movement. I havent found a good youtube video. I also have the original chiense movement, but it had some issues.
Are you recommending Energo to service it? I can reach out to him.
Energo can source gen eta
Not service them

Remove a mvt is easy

- press the stem release
- unscrew the two spacer screws on the side
- remove the spacer
- put a mvt pad on the back
- turn over, the mvt will drop by itself


But frankly, if you don’t knwo or have the tools to remove the hands, and put them back, just contact a service provider

 

tripdog

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2nd pic up from the bottom, there is no screw in the movement tab opposite the crown.
This is probably going to sound crazy, but rather than replacing the entire movement you should probably send it to a watch maker who can remove that screw from wherever it is inside the movement.
 

Hor-Fan

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2nd pic up from the bottom, there is no screw in the movement tab opposite the crown.
This is probably going to sound crazy, but rather than replacing the entire movement you should probably send it to a watch maker who can remove that screw from wherever it is inside the movement.
Good eye!