SS R0lex bracelet conditioning

[vantri]

Ready to break in the new SS band on my Sub and GMT II.
Not really grasping the oiling procedure. Soaking or just wiping on/off.
Also, what kind of oil?
Is there a link I'm missing?

I'm concerned about the coloring on the bezel being affected by my choice of oil.

Thanks!

 

[vantri]

Bump

Anyone care to share their preferred oil and how to apply?

Thanks!

 

[rangie]

I wrap the case with plastic wrap. The I use WD40. I spray both top and underside of the bracelet liberally. I then let it sit for about 30 seconds. The I take each link and move it to spread the oil. Then I wrap the bracelet with paper towels and shake. The last step is I rinse the bracelet lightly then dry and your done.

 

[vmena]

Any spray oil (most usual ones) but before wash the bracelet (soap), clean it with CapeCode, wash again, dry, spray oil, put inside a plastic bag for 1 hour, wash again (very strong, take your time), dry with paper towels, clean with Turtle wax and finally wash again.

Big difference form starting to end... you will think you have a new bracelet. For brushed ones, use capecode carefully, just for cleaning not for shining (apply for 2 minutes gently).

 

[vantri]

Vmena;
Thanks for detailed instructions.
I couldn't wait, so I used some Militec (military grade oil) and worked it into and between the links.
As I worked it between the links the oil on my fingers turned black.
I let it sit heavily oiled for a couple hours, wiped it down and then did it again the next day.
Now I know why people describe the Oyster links as "silky" after treatment.
VT

 

[Jumbie]

How often do you guys repeat this oiling process?

Thanks.

 

[amptor]

umm wd40 is a penetrating fluid, not a lubricant..if you want real oil, you might want to get something like teflon lube. wd40 will dry out over time. of course if you're trying to penetrate and loosen things up that's what it is for.

 

[pugwash]

I'm concerned about the coloring on the bezel being affected by my choice of oil.

You take the bracelet off the watch first.

umm wd40 is a penetrating fluid, not a lubricant..if you want real oil, you might want to get something like teflon lube.

Firstly, WD40 is a lubricant. This is from the WD40 website:

What does WD-40 do?
WD-40 fulfills five basic functions:

1. CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape and excess bonding material.
2. DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
3. PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.
4. LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.
5. PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.

Secondly, since when is PTFE an oil? :shock:

 

[Jake48]

Ready to break in the new SS band on my Sub and GMT II.
Not really grasping the oiling procedure. Soaking or just wiping on/off.
Also, what kind of oil?
Is there a link I'm missing?
I'm concerned about the coloring on the bezel being affected by my choice of oil.
Thanks!

Treat the bracelet as described earlier in the thread but use a silicon based spray instead of oil or WD40. WD40 & oil work fine, but will eventually leave a black residue in between the links and around the case. Silicon keeps the watch cleaner and will give a much more silkier feel than oil or WD40, plus it lasts longer too. After I treat my bracelets it is easy to go back every couple of months, spray the bracelet and then wipe it off with a soft terry cloth towel. This will keep the shine bright and after a few of these treatments your bracelet will develope that shiny look just like the Gen Rolex SS.

I use Maxima SC1 - it is by far the best silicone based spray for this applicaton, although any silicone base spray will work. Maxima can be found at most motorcycle shops. It looks like this:

Here is thier web site:
http://www.maximausa.com/products/cleaners/sc1.asp

 

[JCM1662]

This topic always gets a wide array of reply's. I've tried quite a few methods and IMO, the best is hands down, mothers car polish.

wd-40, silicone, cape cod cloths, other oils are all second to mother's.

As Pug said, you have to remove the bracelet first w/o question. Why even chance a water leak or getting the movement damp?

Then I apply mothers and rub in with the finger tips for a minute or so, then rise with basic hot water and soap and then dry it. It not only removes scratches, but it gives the watch an amazing shine and feel. You can also add a little dab and buff shine it after the wash.

THE best and easiest on your watch process - again - imo.

 

[Jake48]

This topic always gets a wide array of reply's. I've tried quite a few methods and IMO, the best is hands down, mothers car polish.

wd-40, silicone, cape cod cloths, other oils are all second to mother's.

As Pug said, you have to remove the bracelet first w/o question. Why even chance a water leak or getting the movement damp?

Then I apply mothers and rub in with the finger tips for a minute or so, then rise with basic hot water and soap and then dry it. It not only removes scratches, but it gives the watch an amazing shine and feel. You can also add a little dab and buff shine it after the wash.

THE best and easiest on your watch process - again - imo.

Hmmmmm, if I read correctly, vantri started this post with the question of how do I break in my bracelet and more specificaly that he wanted advice on how to OIL his bracelet.

Ready to break in the new SS band on my Sub and GMT II.
Not really grasping the oiling procedure. Soaking or just wiping on/off.
Also, what kind of oil?
Is there a link I'm missing?

I'm concerned about the coloring on the bezel being affected by my choice of oil.

Thanks!

If you want to polish a bracelet, well that is a whole nuther enchilada...

If you are a perfectionist the best thing is to do both, oil or silicon AND polish your bracelet. No matter how much you polish a bracelet you will never get rid of that cheap clanky feel unless you oil/silicon it and no matter how much you oil/silicon your bracelet you will never get it as shiny as a nice polished bracelet (well maybe, but it will take a long time and a lot of rubbing) I wouldn't really compare the two as being the same or one better than the other, as the reason for doing each process is to obtain two distinct and separate results.

Mother's - Been there done that (I could go down a list of polishes, Semi-Chrome, Wenol, Metal Brite, mag polishes et al...) No doubt Mothers is at the top, but if you like Mother's - FLITZ will blow you away. Flitz is creamier than Mothers and does not dry out as quick as Mothers and is way (and I mean WAY) easier to clean off. The only problem with polishes on bracelets are that you run a high probability of over polishing the metal and ruining the brushed look that a Rolie sub is supposed to have. Polishing will make your bracelet shine nice and new, but be carefull!

Also, I have found that when used on a polished SS finish (not brushed) FLITZ can make the SS shine as bright as white gold or platinum and FLITZ keeps the shine longer than any of the other polishes I have tried.

If you haven't tried FLITZ, try it. I got a very nice size tube from a seller on the bay and they threw in a really cool soft micro fiber Flitz polishing cloth that is the best polishing cloth I have found for my watches.

FLITZ:

 

[vantri]

I agree with the car polish idea as I go as far to apply to my BMW's wheels to keep them clean and make them easier to clean. For that matter, there is a product called Wheel Wax which comes in a small tin/jar that may work well.
In sum; I still cannot believe the difference in the feel of the bracelet since applying the gun oil (Militec) and will most likely look for a wax to use that won't leave a bunch of cakey residue behind. If there is no such thing I will stay with oil or silicon. (WD40 IS a penetrating "oil")

 

[pugwash]

Oh, for those that think their Rolex bracelets are still cheap-feeling, go try a gen. The reason they feel so cheap off the wrist is because, just like Seikos, they're very comfortable on the wrist. Omega are the other way around, with solid-feeling but ultimately comparably uncomfortable bracelets.

Why do you see so few Rolexes on leather?

 

[JCM1662]

Jake - Mother's polishes and conditions the metal it comes in contact with, so while not, by definition "oiling" his bracelet if the question was how to improve the sheen/feel/and movement of the bracelet, mothers would do the trick.

If you want to "OIL" the bracelet, try a good 10W-30 high mileage, it has better viscosoity.

 

[Jake48]

Secondly, since when is PTFE an oil? :shock:

Pug - First, Silicone is NOT a PTFE. PTFE is commonly refered to as "Teflon"

Neither (silicone/Teflon) are oils, but all three (oil/Teflon/Silicone) are "LUBRICANTS"

Here is some info you might be interested in and I think you can see why SILICONE works so good on metal bracelets. Besides the reality of the physics behind silicone as a lubricant on your watch bracelet, it just plain works. Try it. I think you might be suprised!

Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) lubricants dispersed into a thermoplastic base resin greatly improve surface-wear characteristics. Molecular weight and particle size of the PTFE lubricant are designed to provide optimum improvements in wear, friction, and PV values for selected resin systems. PTFE has the lowest coefficient of friction (0.02) of any known internal lubricant. Its static coefficient of friction is lower than its dynamic coefficient, which accounts for the slip/stick properties associated with PTFE/metal sliding action. During the initial break-in period, the PTFE particles embedded in the thermoplastic matrix shear to form a high-lubricity film over the mating surface. The PTFE cushions asperities from shock and minimizes fatigue failure.

Silicone fluids are chosen for their ability to perform as boundary lubricants and for partial compatibility with a particular base resin. The silicone is sufficiently compatible with the base resin to form an alloy, yet incompatible enough to cause migration to the surface of the compound. The silicone moves to the surface of a molded or extruded part by two mechanisms: diffusion by random molecular movement, and exclusion from the matrix (migration) because of its limited compatibility. The result of the migratory action is a continuous generation of a silicone film, which serves as a boundary, or mixed-film lubricant.

 

[pugwash]

Pug - First, Silicone is NOT a PTFE. PTFE is commonly refered to as "Teflon"

I was replying to amptor's comment: "if you want real oil, you might want to get something like teflon lube."

I know PTFE is Teflon and it's not an oil. That was my point.

 

[Jake48]

Oh, for those that think their Rolex bracelets are still cheap-feeling, go try a gen. The reason they feel so cheap off the wrist is because, just like Seikos, they're very comfortable on the wrist. Omega are the other way around, with solid-feeling but ultimately comparably uncomfortable bracelets.

Why do you see so few Rolexes on leather?

Pug - I too find it amazing how many people will hold a Rep in thier hand and proclaim "I can tell this Rolex is fake because the bracelet has that cheap light feel to it" They have absolutely know clue as to the real weight of a Gen bracelet, as you have correctly pointed out that a Gen bracelet is essentially as light as a Rep bracelet.

The cheap clanky feel that I am talking about and what I believe most people notice about a Rep bracelet, especially if they have ever held a Gen Rolex, is the the fact that a Rolex has a very silky smooth movement to it when you move the links and the exterior of the bracelet also has a "silky" feel to the metal.

I believe this is in large part due to two major factors. Rolex uses a proprietor based Stainlees Steel which appears to have a higher nickle content. This makes the bracelet "feel" heavier as the metal is denser than the standard 316L SS used on Reps. It also gives the Gen bracelet that look of being "brighter" than a Rep bracelet. The second factor is the smoothness of which Rolex finishes thier metal surfaces. Reps just aren't as refined.

This is why both polishing and oiling will get your rep bracelet close to Gen. The reason I choose silicone over all the other methods is primarily for the two reasons the Gen feels different than a Rep bracelet. As the silicone adheres to the metal (one of silicone's properties that set it apart from oil) it fills in all the micro-scopic imperfections and not only lubricates the metal friction points, but gives the metal that Gen silkyness on the surface. I have even found that multiple applications of a silicone spray can even build up on the metal and make it too shiny and silky. In which case light polish with something like Mother's or Flitz will bring the bracelet back to the metal surface.

The only thing you will never obtain with a rep bracelet is that "dense" or as most people put it that "heavy" feel. It is detectable in your hand, but if you do a good job of oiling and polishing your bracelet you will find that it can look and feel exactly like a gen!

 

[JCM1662]

good points Jake...we'll said.

Last year maybe and I believe it was By-Tor who did an actual weight comparison of a gen rolex sub v a rep rolex sub and then weighed the bracelets seperatrely also and took pics of both. Yes, indeed they are the EXACT same weight. I was astonished...I thought the gen would be heavier.

I guess its the feel of the metals everyone is talking about.

 

[tootall]

I have been reading through this thread and others on how to oil a SS bracelet. I am still confused.

Pugwash you seem to have answered in all of these threads, but I haven't seen yet where you say what you do to oil a bracelet. Please let us know how you do it. And just to clarify, by oiling I mean , taking a SS bracelet that feels a bit like the links don't rotate smoothly and "stick" together, and making it a smooth rotating feeling.

I think there are many ways to skin a cat, but I would like to know what others do. I am leaning towards the silicone route, but I'm not sure if that would smell or rub off on my wrist after I was done.

 

[Zebulon]

I've used Silicon Spray too, with a good result.

I've tried 3in1 and the best result is Silicon.

What I do:

1. Take of the bracelet from the watch.
2. Watch it with toothpaste and toothbruch
3. dry it with paper (kitchen paper)
4. spay Silicon
5. make mooving the links, spray again.
6. wait 15 minutes
7. dry it well.

Silicon Oil spray is very thin and fluid, 3in1 is heavier.