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Servicing a Yuki 3135 (How & Why)

J!m1

Renowned Member
6/6/14
536
64
0
Connecticut
What are you pricing a gen at? Lowest I've seen is $1.5k-$1.7k. And like any true luxury item it's a bitch to work on, parts/service are expensive and no AD will take the work while its in a rep watch. Kinda like a kit car vs the real thing. Anyone can work on a fiero, but I'd never put my wrenches to a real Ferrari.

Ps. If you do find a gen 3135 for a little more than a fully serviced/modded Yuki please PM me :D

Well to be honest if I find that, you'll see it in my next build...

But it your price, plus a few hundred in gen parts would be great if you could convert to the free sprung balance wheel. Maybe the pallet fork and that bridge would allow it- I don't know but another few hundred to collect those parts and the gap is quite small (again assuming you can change enough parts to get it to work).

Mia's far as service goes, I had the local AD service my 1560 without a case. No cheap, but no issues. See my 5512 sake thread- the receipt is displayed in the thread.
 

unreformed66

Known Member
7/11/15
165
19
18
United States, Ohio
Wow. I thought I was the only guy left on the planet using a Mastermatic. I've actually got 3 of them. I retired my Varimatic years ago, it was just too problematic to keep running and I've never been into the ultrasonic machines with no agitation. The Mastermatics have fit the bill for over 25 years for me now. I just finished servicing one of these movements and quite frankly they don't impress me a bit. Poorly made roughly finished parts and all the lint and filth right from the factory. Not to mention some pivots were flooded with oil and some were completely dry. Typical......;)
 

Tickleshoes

Renowned Member
19/8/15
932
302
63
45th Parallel
Wow. I thought I was the only guy left on the planet using a Mastermatic.
Nope. I started hunting for an upgrade to my $50 Amazon ultrasonic and was convinced that a Varimatic or even a Matador 4000 was the only way to go. Then I saw the old Master / Mastermatic and the positive reviews from the guys on the NAWCC forum. Decided to roll the dice and MAN am I glad I did. Solid construction and the results are amazing (with the proper L&R solutions of course). There is something to be said for tried and true tech!

I just finished servicing one of these movements and quite frankly they don't impress me a bit. Poorly made roughly finished parts and all the lint and filth right from the factory. Not to mention some pivots were flooded with oil and some were completely dry. Typical......;)
Yeah, I'm a little perturbed that the price keeps going up but the quality coming out of the factory doesn't. Dry and dirty. 2 years ago these were ~$200. Now they're just shy of $400 and STILL require a full service. The finishing is miles away from Swiss quality but I'd still take one over an ETA due to the robustness of the 3135 itself (or at least the keyless system). Just wish they had a better regulator system with micro adjustment. What a pain!
 

unreformed66

Known Member
7/11/15
165
19
18
United States, Ohio
Nope. I started hunting for an upgrade to my $50 Amazon ultrasonic and was convinced that a Varimatic or even a Matador 4000 was the only way to go. Then I saw the old Master / Mastermatic and the positive reviews from the guys on the NAWCC forum. Decided to roll the dice and MAN am I glad I did. Solid construction and the results are amazing (with the proper L&R solutions of course). There is something to be said for tried and true tech!

Yeah, I'm a little perturbed that the price keeps going up but the quality coming out of the factory doesn't. Dry and dirty. 2 years ago these were ~$200. Now they're just shy of $400 and STILL require a full service. The finishing is miles away from Swiss quality but I'd still take one over an ETA due to the robustness of the 3135 itself (or at least the keyless system). Just wish they had a better regulator system with micro adjustment. What a pain!

I just don't see the money for these replica 3135s. I could buy a brand new genuine for a lot less money, at least for the time being. And then there's always Selitta after those dry up. The fit and finish is quite frankly crap in the rep 3135s. As for the Mastermatics, I love mine. I literally bought them for 5 and 10 dollars 20 years ago, obviously these days they command significantly more than that. Of course I bought mine before Ebay was a big thing and the worldwide market opened up. I'd hate to have to replace my tools at today's prices. I got them all cheap when I started 26 years ago when nobody was buying used horological tools. I literally bought a C&E Marshall lathe complete with cross slide and collets for $15.00 at an auction back then, staking sets for $10 or $20 each and so on. It was a fun ride when knowledge actually counted for something back in the dark days before people could google items on their phones.
 

occb2

Rest Well. EOW 01/19/2024
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I agree with Tickleshoes. A Yuki 3135 kills over a ETA for the Rolex clones. A well cleaned and oiled Yuki with proper parts changed will last you a lifetime as will a Rolex 3135. I have a Rolex/Yuki combo 3185 running now for almost 2 years and I put her on the Timegraph and it was running 0-3 SPD with an amp of 280 0 beat error. This is a two year old yuki. I understand it has a lot of rolex parts but that is the second plus. A lot of Rolex watch makers wont work on eta clones. I believe that if we flood the market with super clones they will. It is identical as a Rolex 3135 but the balance. They know how to work on them already. Im not saying walking into Rolex USA with a clone and say fix this. There are plenty Rolex watch makers that are independent. So if my winding gear is shot. He can order a Rolex winding gear and it will work.
@unreformed66 I don't see how you can buy a brand new Rolex 3135 for a lot less money for the time being. A 3135 new cost over $2000 used I have seen them around $1650 then you need to service them and your back up to $2000.

If I get a yuki even for the $385 he wants now. And drop about $600 in all parts that I would like changed from the calendar stuff to the winding stuff and hours min pinions, and the $160 labor to clean and service which I don't really include because I do it myself. I am spending half of that. It's just over $1000. IF you keep it simple its $385 +around $300 plus service.

Your talking about having a watch movement that works like a rolex and acts like a rolex. Please tell me another movement that you can put in a 16710 case that works and runs like a 3185. Has the correct hand stack and jumping hour. Yea you can transform a Asian 2836 with a gear to run a GMT hand but hand that to any one who knows rolex and they will laugh at you. Sit next to someone on a cruise like me and by the first night we will have a conversation that will make you scared to wear it the rest of the cruise because I will find out its a fake. Or you can just say flat out like I would. Oh its a fake. Ask anyone that I know. Right now I am lucky. Every one of my fakes are all real but the case except the GMT witch is a real case an a fake 3185. I have a real 3185 sitting in my work shop but haven't changed it because the Yuki 3185 runs to good. My wife hates it. Everyone I meet, I start talking about TC and Yuki and Phong. Why because that is what I have. If someone asked me what kind of watch I have on. Its a Rolex that I made. Then they ask you make watches. Then I tell them that I retired at the age of 42 and picked up watch making as a hobby and I go into the story of starting with ETA then moving on to Yuki and then going to real movements and then how hard it is to find a real case and how you can build a rolex for about 1/2 the cost of what they sell for. I have made my friends god I can't even count, how many watches. They chose. Most of them stop at the TC water proof ones. But to each their own.

Each of us are different in this hobby. That is what makes it great. You can make a $200 dollar fake 16610 or a $2500. It is all up to the person. I have seen some amazing watches for amazing prices. Look at the Black bay's that are out right now. My god. Why would you go out and spend $3500 to $4000 on a black bay. You can make the exact watch at home for $400. Well not anymore because they have in house movements now. But till last year. ETA makes most of the movements for the big name companies. So what they dress it up to look they way they want it is still an eta 2800 series or a 7750 series. Buy a Swatch and you get the same movement. I have a movement that everyone wants. I have a swatch slow beat with two key settings. 1)winding 2)adjust hands. It is almost identical to the 1520 movement. It was in a $45 swatch. I could in theory get a phong case and a real dial and eta hands and build a hell of a Rolex 1520. With an amazing ETA low beat movement which cost a heck of a lot more than a $45 dollar swatch. I hope you get the point. I blabber a lot.

You get what you want out of this hobby. I will NEVER be happy with a ETA based Rolex. That is just me. I am a Yuki man. From Yuki I will build up a 3135. I have about $2000 in parts in my workshop of brand new 3135 parts waiting for a yuki. I am just learning to master the yuki first. I am getting there. I can clean it and put it back together and time it in. I just want to get so good at it that I know what the problem is by listening to it or hearing what the problem is.

I have 3 yukis in pieces that I work with every day. I have real 3135 and a real 3185 sitting there. I have a TC case, a ST case and a Phong case sitting in by workshop. I have real bands and I have real buckles. I can build a fully real 16610. If I had a dial and hands I can build a full 16710. They joy is now learning how to make them work. Funny thing is in the same work shop I have around 10-15 eta's torn apart into pieces. I have 21J's incase My father inlaw breaks his watches. He like the cheap ones. He wears them at work and treats them hard.

We are all different and that is what makes this hobby so fun. You have no idea how excited I am now that Noob is making Factory spec cases. The first thing I did with the V6S was tear it apart and put a real crystal and real bezel insert and a real dial and hands and date wheel and a real 3135. Also change the tube and crown. That is an amazing watch. It is fully water proof. That extra 3135 sitting there is waiting for the hulk. Just can't source the parts. They are crazy to find.

The bottom line is have fun. Yuki is an amazing product. It will teach you how a real 3135 works. You can fix a yuki 3135 you can fix a rolex 3135. Learn. Its all we have left.


Oh and I have 2 Mastermatics. Brought one from Mike for almost nothing and then found one on ebay from a guy who didn't know how it worked and said it was broken. Both work great.
 

unreformed66

Known Member
7/11/15
165
19
18
United States, Ohio
I agree with Tickleshoes. A Yuki 3135 kills over a ETA for the Rolex clones. A well cleaned and oiled Yuki with proper parts changed will last you a lifetime as will a Rolex 3135. I have a Rolex/Yuki combo 3185 running now for almost 2 years and I put her on the Timegraph and it was running 0-3 SPD with an amp of 280 0 beat error. This is a two year old yuki. I understand it has a lot of rolex parts but that is the second plus. A lot of Rolex watch makers wont work on eta clones. I believe that if we flood the market with super clones they will. It is identical as a Rolex 3135 but the balance. They know how to work on them already. Im not saying walking into Rolex USA with a clone and say fix this. There are plenty Rolex watch makers that are independent. So if my winding gear is shot. He can order a Rolex winding gear and it will work.
@unreformed66 I don't see how you can buy a brand new Rolex 3135 for a lot less money for the time being. A 3135 new cost over $2000 used I have seen them around $1650 then you need to service them and your back up to $2000.

If I get a yuki even for the $385 he wants now. And drop about $600 in all parts that I would like changed from the calendar stuff to the winding stuff and hours min pinions, and the $160 labor to clean and service which I don't really include because I do it myself. I am spending half of that. It's just over $1000. IF you keep it simple its $385 +around $300 plus service.

Your talking about having a watch movement that works like a rolex and acts like a rolex. Please tell me another movement that you can put in a 16710 case that works and runs like a 3185. Has the correct hand stack and jumping hour. Yea you can transform a Asian 2836 with a gear to run a GMT hand but hand that to any one who knows rolex and they will laugh at you. Sit next to someone on a cruise like me and by the first night we will have a conversation that will make you scared to wear it the rest of the cruise because I will find out its a fake. Or you can just say flat out like I would. Oh its a fake. Ask anyone that I know. Right now I am lucky. Every one of my fakes are all real but the case except the GMT witch is a real case an a fake 3185. I have a real 3185 sitting in my work shop but haven't changed it because the Yuki 3185 runs to good. My wife hates it. Everyone I meet, I start talking about TC and Yuki and Phong. Why because that is what I have. If someone asked me what kind of watch I have on. Its a Rolex that I made. Then they ask you make watches. Then I tell them that I retired at the age of 42 and picked up watch making as a hobby and I go into the story of starting with ETA then moving on to Yuki and then going to real movements and then how hard it is to find a real case and how you can build a rolex for about 1/2 the cost of what they sell for. I have made my friends god I can't even count, how many watches. They chose. Most of them stop at the TC water proof ones. But to each their own.

Each of us are different in this hobby. That is what makes it great. You can make a $200 dollar fake 16610 or a $2500. It is all up to the person. I have seen some amazing watches for amazing prices. Look at the Black bay's that are out right now. My god. Why would you go out and spend $3500 to $4000 on a black bay. You can make the exact watch at home for $400. Well not anymore because they have in house movements now. But till last year. ETA makes most of the movements for the big name companies. So what they dress it up to look they way they want it is still an eta 2800 series or a 7750 series. Buy a Swatch and you get the same movement. I have a movement that everyone wants. I have a swatch slow beat with two key settings. 1)winding 2)adjust hands. It is almost identical to the 1520 movement. It was in a $45 swatch. I could in theory get a phong case and a real dial and eta hands and build a hell of a Rolex 1520. With an amazing ETA low beat movement which cost a heck of a lot more than a $45 dollar swatch. I hope you get the point. I blabber a lot.

You get what you want out of this hobby. I will NEVER be happy with a ETA based Rolex. That is just me. I am a Yuki man. From Yuki I will build up a 3135. I have about $2000 in parts in my workshop of brand new 3135 parts waiting for a yuki. I am just learning to master the yuki first. I am getting there. I can clean it and put it back together and time it in. I just want to get so good at it that I know what the problem is by listening to it or hearing what the problem is.

I have 3 yukis in pieces that I work with every day. I have real 3135 and a real 3185 sitting there. I have a TC case, a ST case and a Phong case sitting in by workshop. I have real bands and I have real buckles. I can build a fully real 16610. If I had a dial and hands I can build a full 16710. They joy is now learning how to make them work. Funny thing is in the same work shop I have around 10-15 eta's torn apart into pieces. I have 21J's incase My father inlaw breaks his watches. He like the cheap ones. He wears them at work and treats them hard.

We are all different and that is what makes this hobby so fun. You have no idea how excited I am now that Noob is making Factory spec cases. The first thing I did with the V6S was tear it apart and put a real crystal and real bezel insert and a real dial and hands and date wheel and a real 3135. Also change the tube and crown. That is an amazing watch. It is fully water proof. That extra 3135 sitting there is waiting for the hulk. Just can't source the parts. They are crazy to find.

The bottom line is have fun. Yuki is an amazing product. It will teach you how a real 3135 works. You can fix a yuki 3135 you can fix a rolex 3135. Learn. Its all we have left.


Oh and I have 2 Mastermatics. Brought one from Mike for almost nothing and then found one on ebay from a guy who didn't know how it worked and said it was broken. Both work great.

I never said anything about buying a genuine Rolex movement for less than the rep 3135. I said I could buy a genuine ETA movement for a lot less. New, serviced, and ready to go. To each their own but I'm just not the least bit impressed with the replica 3135s that I've handled. The fit and finish is crap. From a watchmaking perspective they look like they were made in a dark shed with a dull file compared to even the lower grade ETA 2824s or 2836s. The wheels are rough, the plates are rough on the underside, the steel used for the pinions and winding wheels is soft, and so on. If you want to spend $1000.00 like you said on a replica 3135 to try and make it dependable and make it last then that's your money and your choice. Me not doing it is my money and my choice. I've been doing watch repair for 26 years now. I'm not new to this and I've seen the insides of literally thousands of movements. I've worked on more than a few genuine 3135s over those years. I knew "how they worked" long before the first Chinese rep ever rolled off the assembly line. And these Yuki movements don't come close in quality. In a watch that's never going to be seen with the back off what difference does it make as long as the movement fits and the beats per hour is correct? I wish I'd bought a ton of Rolexes about 20 years ago but back then I couldn't afford to keep them long. One in, one out as it were. You could buy genuine movements for a couple of hundred dollars from time to time but of course those days are long gone. Now it seems like a decent 3135 will run you a couple of thousand dollars so I see the attraction of using something else. For me it's just not going to be the rep 3135 unless they improve considerably. If they were a $100 movement I'd use them. At $400 and up, no thanks.
Now, those supposedly factory spec cases are interesting. I'm going to have to see about getting my hands on one of those.
 

occb2

Rest Well. EOW 01/19/2024
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I never said anything about buying a genuine Rolex movement for less than the rep 3135. I said I could buy a genuine ETA movement for a lot less. New, serviced, and ready to go. To each their own but I'm just not the least bit impressed with the replica 3135s that I've handled. The fit and finish is crap. From a watchmaking perspective they look like they were made in a dark shed with a dull file compared to even the lower grade ETA 2824s or 2836s. The wheels are rough, the plates are rough on the underside, the steel used for the pinions and winding wheels is soft, and so on. If you want to spend $1000.00 like you said on a replica 3135 to try and make it dependable and make it last then that's your money and your choice. Me not doing it is my money and my choice. I've been doing watch repair for 26 years now. I'm not new to this and I've seen the insides of literally thousands of movements. I've worked on more than a few genuine 3135s over those years. I knew "how they worked" long before the first Chinese rep ever rolled off the assembly line. And these Yuki movements don't come close in quality. In a watch that's never going to be seen with the back off what difference does it make as long as the movement fits and the beats per hour is correct? I wish I'd bought a ton of Rolexes about 20 years ago but back then I couldn't afford to keep them long. One in, one out as it were. You could buy genuine movements for a couple of hundred dollars from time to time but of course those days are long gone. Now it seems like a decent 3135 will run you a couple of thousand dollars so I see the attraction of using something else. For me it's just not going to be the rep 3135 unless they improve considerably. If they were a $100 movement I'd use them. At $400 and up, no thanks.
Now, those supposedly factory spec cases are interesting. I'm going to have to see about getting my hands on one of those.


That is because you haven't seen mine, or Mikes, or Subway, or any real hard core collector. Case work is just as strong of a part. And I am sooooo happy that you have been around so long to give us your wise advice but I will stick to my serviced and upgraded yuki with a real dial that I don't have to hack and real hands that fit like a glove with no glue. This cases are amazing. Check them out. A little work on the crown guards and man it is hard to tell. The best thing is EVERYTHING fits. The crystal the bezel even the stem distance. It is just wow. Guys like you are an asset to this hobby. Been around long enough to show us the ways it use to be but like in everything, thing change. If I was still out on the streets teaching these kids how we were taught how to do police work we would be arrested. Get a yuki in you hand. Clean it up and watch how well it runs. The past few yuki's I got ran great dirty and dry. I would still clean and oil them just for longevity. I have no doubt that the way this hobby is going, soon there is going to be a perfect clone of a Rolex. There will always be weak spots but for guys like me who have 9 watches that area all Rolex but the case which most are phong. I am happy. I have seen a few cases pop up on ebay for sale. I brought a GMT. If I want to I will buy them. God has blessed me enough to be able to walk into a rolex store and say I want that one. That is not why I am here. I love to see how the heck they take a bunch of wheels, bridges, and pinions and make them come to life to be able to keep time up to 1 second a day.
 

gmg_3

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It all depends. I can't be certain how much watchsmiths here would charge, but an established one is likely in the $150-$200 range. That might also include installation if they were doing a full build for you. Yuki used to charge $345 per movement but now the site is showing $385 and out of stock, so I'm not sure what's going on. (they also charge me $35 shipping too) I've always just charged $430 for the serviced movement (plus shipping at cost).

supply and demand. Yuki cant keep them in stock so why not increase the price?
 

occb2

Rest Well. EOW 01/19/2024
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@unreformed66, have you worked on a Yuki? Prior to the hike in price. It was $340. I spent $300 to $500 in parts. I clean it myself. I have them running +/- 2 sec. Reliable calendar and winding. I have one that My friend converted to a 3185 and it's running amazingly. So much that I have a brand new 3185 with the antimagnetic spring and balance and I haven't swapped it over. I have a Rolex 16710 that is all real minus the movement which is that Yuki/Rolex 3185 hybrid. So yea I can defeantly disagree with you on the quality. Rolex 3135 is a better movement than a Yuki. Undoubletlly but a well serviced and modified Yuki will run as well and give you a lifetime of service if taken care of.

Also so I don't know if you know but Yuki is the $ man. He doesn't "make" the movements. I was the first one to tell him that the balance of a Rolex won't work. The only reason I knew was because my friend Mike replaced every part using a Yuki main plate and the Rolex balance would only work for 20 -30,seconds. I have the email Between Yuki and I talking about it and he said he didn't know and that I was the first one to tell him that. He knows he has a great product and that with the right watchmaker or hobbiest is just amazing.

Yes if if you take a Yuki that comes from the factory and throw it in a movement it will work. I've seen them working amazingly from the factory. But you look at them with a loop and they are dirty as hell. Dry as hell. I've seen reversing wheels already wearing. I've seen hand pinions bent. I had a person here send me his brand new Yuki and wanted me to just throw it in a v6s. I alway check the calander work prior to installing a new date wheel because you WILL destroy it. Well the brand new Yuki calander wheel was slipping. I have the gear at home and you can see the teeth are destroyed. That is from the factory. I ended up feeling so bad for the guy I brought everything from him because he didn't want to or didn't have the money to put the gen Rolex parts.

Point being. If you are a hobbiest who wants a good sub that will pass with 99.9% of people go with a TC and a gen 2824. That watch will last you a long time. You want to be a hobbiest like me. Buy that TC and make it yours. Wether it be with a watchmaker or yourself. Upgrade the crap out of it. Slowly, quickly, what ever speed you want. But make it your watch. The Yuki is a upgrade IMO to the ETA. Works identically to a 3135. If I had it in my hands and adjusted the time I would think its a 3135.

Again in this whole thing is for a modern Rolex. If your looking to make a 16800 or prior then a ETA would be the way to go. Everything adjust the same from a 3035 and a 2824. I hope this helps. And sorry for typos. I'm on a iPad.

Cant wait to to be home with my laptop. Lol.
 

occb2

Rest Well. EOW 01/19/2024
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Thanks brother. There are so many of us in this hobby. I love it. Everyone from the guy who just got his first rep on canal street NY. To the people building life long watches. I just love the spectrum of people and the commonality of us all. I just don't like it when people judge.

If someone wants to take a 21j 60 dollar movement and build your own watch. God bless you. It's fun. I do it for friends and family. You want an Asian 2824 or 2836 build? Go for it. Again. A fun hobby no matter what you do or movement you use. But all that being said. Yuki is the first clone 3135 that EVERY part but the balance works. The balance fits..... Won't work. So that being said. This is a rep sitE and this hobby is a rep hobby. So a rep of a 3135 is just taking the hobby to a new level. Not "only" can we upgrade our watches, crystal, dial, bezel. We can now change the guts to real Rolex parts. Its exciting!!! And now Noob makes a gen spec 116610 case. My God it's amazing. I just wish someone would make a 16710 gen spec case!! I have a few of those I would love to build.
 

Retina

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You are right on that CHS - the only gripe I've had with the Rep GMT is the CHS and hour adjustment jump, good to know that the Yuki fixes that. My bro bought the gen GMT and the movement works like a Rolex should - on point with perfect SELs and Date alignment. Anyone who has ever wound a Rolex will know how smooth these movements are, amazing high quality movements. Glad to know that Yuki can mimic them well, might actually use that if I want a Franken GMT :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

occb2

Rest Well. EOW 01/19/2024
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You are right on that CHS - the only gripe I've had with the Rep GMT is the CHS and hour adjustment jump, good to know that the Yuki fixes that. My bro bought the gen GMT and the movement works like a Rolex should - on point with perfect SELs and Date alignment. Anyone who has ever wound a Rolex will know how smooth these movements are, amazing high quality movements. Glad to know that Yuki can mimic them well, might actually use that if I want a Franken GMT :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well im in talks with Phongs son on making a 16710 case. He wants me to send him my real 16710 and he will use that case as a mold. It's just he want a lot of money for the cases and I have to order 5 min and he wants 1/2 the cash now. Myself and another member are splitting the 5 cases. I just feel like I am giving him my real case and the 1/2 the money will most likely cover all his charges. So I feel like I am paying for something to be made that he will make a lot of money on. Now I have asked him to lower the price to under $1000 a case. Still waiting to hear back. I think that might be my calling. To do it myself. Just need the know how. He wants to charge $1450 a case. That is nuts. I'm more along the lines of $900 and I still think that is a lot. But I have all of the other parts to make a two tone GMT. Just need a case!
 

Retina

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Well im in talks with Phongs son on making a 16710 case. He wants me to send him my real 16710 and he will use that case as a mold. It's just he want a lot of money for the cases and I have to order 5 min and he wants 1/2 the cash now. Myself and another member are splitting the 5 cases. I just feel like I am giving him my real case and the 1/2 the money will most likely cover all his charges. So I feel like I am paying for something to be made that he will make a lot of money on. Now I have asked him to lower the price to under $1000 a case. Still waiting to hear back. I think that might be my calling. To do it myself. Just need the know how. He wants to charge $1450 a case. That is nuts. I'm more along the lines of $900 and I still think that is a lot. But I have all of the other parts to make a two tone GMT. Just need a case!

Have you tried tony watches? He might have some gen spec cases. I've read over next door that phong have some consistency issues.. 1450 is nuts for a case


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occb2

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Have you tried tony watches? He might have some gen spec cases. I've read over next door that phong have some consistency issues.. 1450 is nuts for a case


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Who is Tony watches? Do you have a website or email? PM it to me if you can.
 

occb2

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Also lots of people have the 1670 case for gen 1570 movements. It's the 167XX case. For the 3175/85. Or even an early one that will take a 3075