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Seamaster 300 Dial removal

JTB16635

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I just got a Seamaster 300 Summer Blue, and somehow I missed that one of the indices for the 12 O'Clock is crooked :mad:. It appears the movement is just a decorated 2824-2 clone. However the claws that hold the dial feet on seem to be buried under the decorated pieces. Is there a way to release the feet without removing the "extra parts"? Or do I need to pull the rotor and decorated plates to get to the claws? Also, if the rotor needs removed, any tricks to get that glued on screw cover off without bending or otherwise destroying it?

Thanks
 

KJ2020

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I just got a Seamaster 300 Summer Blue, and somehow I missed that one of the indices for the 12 O'Clock is crooked :mad:. It appears the movement is just a decorated 2824-2 clone. However the claws that hold the dial feet on seem to be buried under the decorated pieces. Is there a way to release the feet without removing the "extra parts"? Or do I need to pull the rotor and decorated plates to get to the claws? Also, if the rotor needs removed, any tricks to get that glued on screw cover off without bending or otherwise destroying it?

Thanks
If your movement is out of the case already, can you post a slightly elevated profile pic of it showing the space above the dial fastener? It's possible you can fashion a tiny hook tool out of a paper clip and pull the fastener out with it. I made the one below for accessing keyless parts externally - it works great. Yours would likely need a shorter length perpendicular hook on the end as that space above the dial fastener is shallow.

2dRRn8.jpeg
 
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JTB16635

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Thanks. It is not out of the case yet. I'm waiting for a day I have a block of free time, but I'm assuming from rebuilding the keyless works in a similar PO that it is the same movement. I was lucky enough to gently pry that dial off, but don't want to temp fait twice. LOL Thanks for the tip! and I actually read your tutorial linked above yesterday. The 3 o'clock might me slighty askew as well. joy!
 
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KJ2020

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Thanks. It is not out of the case yet. I'm waiting for a day I have a block of free time, but I'm assuming from rebuilding the keyless works in a similar PO that it is the same movement. I was lucky enough to gently pry that dial off, but don't want to temp fait twice. LOL Thanks for the tip! and I actually read your tutorial linked above yesterday. The 3 o'clock might me slighty askew as well. joy!
It's not so bad just take it slow. I just found out I gotta swap out a whole set of markers cause the ones on the dial are noticeably off white compared to the hands, ugh. Luckily I have another set that matches better.

2d0Lck.jpeg


It's worse than it looks in the pic. This is often an issue with a dial or hands swap that we realize only after the parts arrive.
 
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JTB16635

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It looks like the 3 is turned as well but when you put a straight edge of paper over it, I believe it’s the 9. Won’t be able to tell until I pull it. Wonky
 

KJ2020

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It looks like the 3 is turned as well but when you put a straight edge of paper over it, I believe it’s the 9. Won’t be able to tell until I pull it. Wonky
Your pic is straight. I use dial text at screen edge to verify. Then putting the markers at screen edge the 9 looks OK, the 3 looks just a tad left end high. The 12 left side marker is low end left. For tiny adjustments like these I sand off one pin, reglue with the good pin, then nudge the opposite side with no pin to be straight. And I always back up my eye with pics before leaving it to set.

2dJvKI.jpeg


2dJ71c.jpeg
 
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JTB16635

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thanks. You are correct. It is the 3. the hash mark is not centered on the 3 o'clock indices (the right side nearest the hash is low from center. That pic isn't dead to nuts head on. Kind of lame they cheeped out on the end links too. haha. Leaving one post is what I was going to try, as per your instructions in the tutorial you linked. I'll order some of that glue you recommend as well. I don't think the GS I have will work too well and CA is a no-no.
 
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Kerbus

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I’m wearing my Seamaster today and man, am I glad my dial is good! Here I am prepping to do an insert reinstall and that’s child’s play compared to this. I have my glue now but I want to use rings first at least

I will watch this one closely and I wish you much, much success in getting things just how you want them. I admire the skill very much!
 
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JTB16635

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It shouldn’t be too hard. Just patience. The biggest bitch is taking half the back apart to remove the sail feet clamps.
 

KJ2020

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thanks. You are correct. It is the 3. the hash mark is not centered on the 3 o'clock indices (the right side nearest the hash is low from center. That pic isn't dead to nuts head on. Kind of lame they cheeped out on the end links too. haha. Leaving one post is what I was going to try, as per your instructions in the tutorial you linked. I'll order some of that glue you recommend as well. I don't think the GS I have will work too well and CA is a no-no.
Fill the pin holes with glue. Then place the TINIEST amount you can possibly place in a ribbon between the holes. If you put too much on, drag it into a hole without letting the ribbon spread too wide. Also let the BSI epoxy sit for about 5-7 minutes after mixing so it isn't so runny.

I use a 0.25mm broaching file as a glue applicator. It's tip where the glue drop goes is crazy tiny, like 0.1mm. Here is a pic of a drop I used to fill a crystal chip to keep it from spreading and to improve the topside appearance. Previously tiny fractures were visible due to multiple facets in the chip. Afterward it looks totally smooth now on top. It would be hard to find with a loupe even if you knew it was there but not where to look.

2TPCxt.jpeg
 
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JTB16635

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I’m wearing my Seamaster today and man, am I glad my dial is good! Here I am prepping to do an insert reinstall and that’s child’s play compared to this. I have my glue now but I want to use rings first at least

I will watch this one closely and I wish you much, much success in getting things just how you want them. I admire the skill very much!
what happened to your insert that you have to reinstall it?
 

Kerbus

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16/3/06
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what happened to your insert that you have to reinstall it?
It suddenly fell off the watch after 16 years of ownership. Age I guess. I have adhesive rings on order to reinstall it. This happened once before to me with a GMT but because this is a nice watch I really want to study to be able to reinstall it right
 

Kerbus

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So as not to be confusing, the watch that needs a bezel reinstall is a Sub, not the Seamaster. That’s too new,I suppose, for it to happen to that one yet
 

JTB16635

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You might want to take a look at G.S. Hypo jewelers glue. I use it on inserts as it gives you some time to get it lined up perfectly. I put a little bit in a thin gauge syringe and apply it. Gives you more control than the tube it comes in.
 

Kerbus

Spring Bar Struggler
16/3/06
1,552
1,002
113
FL
You might want to take a look at G.S. Hypo jewelers glue. I use it on inserts as it gives you some time to get it lined up perfectly. I put a little bit in a thin gauge syringe and apply it. Gives you more control than the tube it comes in.
Yes, I do have it as an option, as I do 30 min epoxy as well,luckily I have a scrap watch with a bezel, actually, I found a second watch too with a rotating bezel, so I’m really going to try to practice on them first
 
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