Sorry, same as a you would a sb.
cut a section, fix it to a block of wood, and use a fixed edge to slide it against - constistent and straight. One direction.
I may have to order one of these. Thanks for the tip!Hi guys i strongly suggest to leave the scotch-brite in the kitchen and try a bergeon 5444-A block for rolexes, it's easier to go straight with a block and it's closer to the rolex brush!!
These are the ones I used...I just cut them into smaller pieces so they're easier to controlView attachment 40079
Do not use scotch brite pads or any shit like that. Buy a sheet of 400 grade wet & dry paper, with a pair of scissors cut out a square approx 3 x 3 cm/ 1 inch sq.
Fold it in 4 - this will make it rigid. Using the straight edge of the paper to guide you, line it up perfectly with the top edge of the case so that the strokes will be parallel with the brushed finish of the case.
Apply gently pressure, and keep the strokes and the paper parallel to the case top at all times.
There's nothing wrong with using scotch brite - it's great for bracelets.
But the part of the case with the scratch has sharply machined edges and a polished bevel on the lug. The fibres of the scotch brite pad, which are not compact but 'woolly', will go over the edges of the case and soften and scratch them - in the wrong direction/places - they will also pass over the polished bevel and scratch that as well.
The ideal way to remove that scratch would be to dismantle the case and run the case over wet & dry paper taped to a work surface - you can keep your movements parallel and the wet & dry has no fibres to 'wander' over the edges etc.
Sometimes 'wandering' fibres are useful - getting in between the links of a bracelet for example - you want that 'woolly' texture.
A very light wipe with a Cape Cod on brushed finishes improves the shine, but it's just a quick and light wipe. . .