It’s the small wheel below. Make sure you have it in the correct orientation. The small teeth need to be facing down.
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Rolex Sub from ZF - BROKEN in three weeks
- Thread starter JNSD
- Start date
- 12/3/18
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A couple other things you can check:
There is a post on the date finger that engages the teeth in the datewheel every 24 hours. I had a ZF Sub where that post sat too low to reach the teeth. I used a longer one I had from spares but it wouldn't stay put even when epoxied. There is so little room for glue contact. I ended up using an ARF complete part, which has worked even though that post is the fuscia colored plastic on ARFs and they are known for popping out on occasion.
Also, below the top plate of the date finger, there is a fuscia jewel that sits on the yoke. Make sure it is there, but don't lose it in the process! Put your datewheel back on and watch as the date finger rotates around to see if its post engages the DW teeth.
There is a post on the date finger that engages the teeth in the datewheel every 24 hours. I had a ZF Sub where that post sat too low to reach the teeth. I used a longer one I had from spares but it wouldn't stay put even when epoxied. There is so little room for glue contact. I ended up using an ARF complete part, which has worked even though that post is the fuscia colored plastic on ARFs and they are known for popping out on occasion.
Also, below the top plate of the date finger, there is a fuscia jewel that sits on the yoke. Make sure it is there, but don't lose it in the process! Put your datewheel back on and watch as the date finger rotates around to see if its post engages the DW teeth.
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Ok team, firstly thank you for all the advice, you're spot on, kinda...
Got it apart again today and had a good look as now I know what to look for. However, when I got it apart and knew what to look for there is NO DATE FINGER! I am perplexed as this worked perfectly when I got the watch, and from all the illustrations in the manual and the video here: https://youtu.be/nUZ3xB5fI-k it seems that the post should be built into the washer, not something that comes out. So as you can see in my images below, something is very strange/wrong.
I'm getting closer team, but I feel like this is going to end in me needing to buy MORE parts as this looks like it's a ZF mistake...?
Another point I want to ask you about is how the hell do you very carefully clean the watch face, e.g.g the enamel black of the Rolex face? I have been using the Rodico but am at the point where I am worried I am going to cause micro scratches (I have a lot of experience in car detailing/polishing so have a basic understanding of mirror finishes).
Seems using a wiping technique is risky... Would love some guidance or videos to help.
Video of the mechanism working properly, but it doesn't have the post built-in like I think it is supposed to:
https://youtu.be/u7DDRjupXNA
Got it apart again today and had a good look as now I know what to look for. However, when I got it apart and knew what to look for there is NO DATE FINGER! I am perplexed as this worked perfectly when I got the watch, and from all the illustrations in the manual and the video here: https://youtu.be/nUZ3xB5fI-k it seems that the post should be built into the washer, not something that comes out. So as you can see in my images below, something is very strange/wrong.
I'm getting closer team, but I feel like this is going to end in me needing to buy MORE parts as this looks like it's a ZF mistake...?
Another point I want to ask you about is how the hell do you very carefully clean the watch face, e.g.g the enamel black of the Rolex face? I have been using the Rodico but am at the point where I am worried I am going to cause micro scratches (I have a lot of experience in car detailing/polishing so have a basic understanding of mirror finishes).
Seems using a wiping technique is risky... Would love some guidance or videos to help.
Video of the mechanism working properly, but it doesn't have the post built-in like I think it is supposed to:
https://youtu.be/u7DDRjupXNA
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Also, went back through the images and the one below is when I first disassembled the watch, seems that there was never a post on that part to begin with. So confused...
So it looks like I need a new Rolex 3535-623 date finger....
Seriously can't believe this!
So it looks like I need a new Rolex 3535-623 date finger....
Seriously can't believe this!
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What I want to know is how did it work before? Do you think there was a tiny post sitting in that vacant hole? Still so confused. Total nightmare.
Covered that jewel straight away back to how it was…
So I guess all I really want to know from anyone who's pulled apart a 3135 ZF movement before or if on the odd chance that anyone has images of their rep movement apart, do you have the post built into the date finger like it is supposed to be or is there some kind of removable pin on these Reps????
Would love your advice as well KJ2020 and oascom
Would love your advice as well KJ2020 and oascom
So I guess all I really want to know from anyone who's pulled apart a 3135 ZF movement before or if on the odd chance that anyone has images of their rep movement apart, do you have the post built into the date finger like it is supposed to be or is there some kind of removable pin on these Reps????
Would love your advice as well KJ2020 and oascom
There was once one there before. It clearly broke off. It may have broken off the last time you flipped the date. There is no other way for the date to flip other than the quick change.
All the ones I have serviced, and yours is a VR3135, have the post there.
Maybe when I first pulled the date wheel out it broke off… that’s the only thing I can think off now.
Will a Gen 3535-623 date finger fit this? Please say yes!
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- 12/3/18
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A gen date finger should work but really it could be fixed much more cheaply. All it needs is a little metal post friction fit in the hole - that's all it was to begin with. Since you are thinking about a replacement part anyway, it wouldn't hurt to try to implement a homemade solution. A piece of aluminum wire or a paper clip for example are potential sources of material. You would need a pin vice to hold the paper clip piece while shaping and shortening it. A pin vice is cheap and quite useful in watchmaking. Tiny pieces can be easily shaped with a pin vice and a dremel. They can also be hand sanded with flat paper on a bench. Make the post approximately the right height and a little thicker than the hole. Then taper one end slightly so you can tap it into the hole and it will hold. Just wrap a thin strip of 600 grit paper around the pin and twirl the pin vice around to decrease diameter for both the exposed section and then a little more for the tapered section. You can leave it la little long then sand it down to proper height after its embedded. It can even be taller than the original by 1mm or so. It won't hurt if it's diameter is increased slightly when tapping it in with a jeweler's hammer.
Example of detail sanding with a dremel
Alternately, you can scavenge the part from a dead movement.
Example of detail sanding with a dremel
Alternately, you can scavenge the part from a dead movement.
LOVE THIS!
I have pin vices and all sorts of metalworking stuff from a past life. I normally try to make stuff but for some reason this whole watchmaking stuff is freaking me out.. It's JUST. SO. SMALL!!!!
I will give this a shot though as the cost and waiting for a gen part will be likely timely and painful.
Thanks so much again for the help, it's painful and fun all at the same time.
Also, did another waterproof test after replacing the crown o-ring (wanted to try to replace the others as I have them all but the internal crown tune o-ring I got was way too thick and the back seal o-ring seemed too thin, so I'm a little confused as they're from a watchmakers supplier).
Seems that I may have a small leak from the actual crystal which upsets me as that's the hardest to fix from what I gather and would require more tools...
Have a look at the video and let me know your thoughts.
https://youtu.be/amTGurwieS8
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- 13/3/16
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Are you sure that’s not air that was behind the bezel? I can’t see water inside the case. I’ll look again later on a larger screen. My waterproof tests look very similar to yours.
- 12/3/18
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- 59,037
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My thoughts exactly. The case holes for the click and ball springs also trap air.
- 1/11/17
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I'm not sure if this will help you but if you are in Sydney this guy comes as advertised and does a lot of rep work. You can pm him here. marrickville
It’s sucks your in Australia!
I have a ton of those date fingers as spare parts…
Give what KJ mentioned a shot. You may be able to friction fit something in there that will work.
Allthenamesweretaken
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Tribefan
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