kilowattore
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Clamps should go beneath the lip, not above. I can see a space on the tab near the stem but not on the opposite side. Your movement holder likely needs to be modified to allow proper clamps fitment.
Thanks kilowattore! Clamps are beneath the lip, if they would be above, movement would drop away from the case without crown stem... But I bet the lip you mean is the very first (observed radially from center of the movement towards edge of the case) lip right after adapter ring? (marked with green arrows in pic)Clamps should go beneath the lip, not above. I can see a space on the tab near the stem but not on the opposite side. Your movement holder likely needs to be modified to allow proper clamps fitment.
Yes I mean the adapter ring. And yes clamps must be shorter and be fitted right where you pointed with the green arrows
Many thanks to Mr Seamaster and kilowattore, now the movement is secured for good and I am very confident its done properly now!Clamps should go beneath the lip, not above. I can see a space on the tab near the stem but not on the opposite side. Your movement holder likely needs to be modified to allow proper clamps fitment.
Many thanks to Mr Seamaster and kilowattore, now the movement is secured for good and I am very confident its done properly now!
I had to modify movement adapter ring clamp grooves little deeper, because movement was almost at the same level as the case lip and as soon as I install one clamp, it was impossible to fit other clamp under the case lip, there was no lip or space visible at all. I am sure that this movement will no longer move anywhere, possible radial movement is blocked by adapter ring and clamps and possible tangential movement is blocked by clamps laying low in the adapter ring groove.
If I understood correctly, youre saying that its a bad thing that movement retaining screws are not fully screwed in? May I ask why its bad thing? I always thoughts its a good idea to screw those fully down in order to have maximum spring force (From the movement clamps) to keep movement in place inside the case.
ps. Can you refresh those pics, cant see em anymore and would have been cool to see the pics
@tripdog I am doing a unlimited budget build. I got the Phong Case. If you had an unlimited budget excluding getting a genuine... How would you build it?
I have authentic movement already.
I want it to be as close to perfect as possible.
1. Wouldn't it be the 702 crown and tube? or is the phong case good enough where I only need the 702 crown and not the tube?Genuine T19 crystal, Rolex 703 crown, genuine Omega sword hands, you'll never find genuine insert or dial so Crown Art Customs insert and Minh Quy dial.
Yes use Rolex crown & tube, 702 crowns aren't water resistant now after all this time.1. Wouldn't it be the 702 crown and tube? or is the phong case good enough where I only need the 702 crown and not the tube?
2. How do I get in contact with Minh Quy. Already spoke to Crown art. He is super nice.
Awesome! I’m going to start a build thread. I’ll tag youYes use Rolex crown & tube, 702 crowns aren't water resistant now after all this time.
Google 'vintage watches Minh Quy.
I will tag you in the new thread so you can follow. When I am ready I may message you for those parts
Been trying to get in contact with him hahaSlightly offtopic but maybe it helps - I recently got used gen 7020 / 702 combo for two of my vintage builds and with newly installed gaskets it is waterproof - I tested it up to 5 bar.
Good luck with your build!
Btw, tripdog is THE MASTER in case reshaping - he helped me with several franken 4 digit and 5-digit cases and his work is outstanding - highly recommended.
Haha I’m trying. I have no clue how to get in contact with him.I was going to say; if budget is no issue - send the case to Tripdog - His work is always impressive!