Rolex 1680 Tritium Franken Project - any advice/sources/modder appreciated

[weathermanGTS]

After 2.5 years of trying more than 100 modern watches (like Rolex, PAM, AP, PP, Omega and so on), I learned that my preferences lie more with vintage watches. I purchased a 5513 super franken and this brought me (yesterday) to the idea to build a 1680 franken (I love having a date). My plan is to have it on my wrist at x-mas 2024!

As I am not having any experience in watch modding/assembling my only task will be in sourcing the parts. When this is done, I am looking for someone who could assemble the watch, plus perform some case works if necessary. Before I start sourcing parts, I have a few questions (see below):

planned gen parts:
- complete bracelet with 580/501b endlinks [93150 - done]
- xtal [T-127 - done]
- tritium dial (white liner, I think it's for the years from 1976 - 1979) [done]
- datewheel [done]
- hands [done]
- bezel
- insert
- (pip if missing)
- crown + tube

planned rep parts:
- case [Milk case - done]
- movement [Gen 1570 - changed my mind and bought a gen]


Question 1:
Regarding the case, I planned to get a Vietnam Case but have no idea where to source it. And does it take easily the gen parts (dial, bezel, xtal)? Is there any rework necessary?

Question 2:
What rep movement would be best for that project and where can I buy it?

Question 3:
Anything you would recommend, like not using a gen dial, because a raffles dial would be perfect too?


Any other input is highly appreciated. Like to learn now, before I spend the money!


I will update the thread step by step with pics. Thanks!

LAST UPDATE: 08.02.2024​

 

[Endo]

Interesting project, I always enjoy seeing these vintage builds!

1. There are many Vietnam part sellers, as a starting point; Ruby's, Phong, Vintage MQ and their is a seller on RWI who goes by Milk.
I would suspect the case would need reshaping.

2. Maybe something like a 2824, I'd consider going genuine for the cost and if you want it to be a low beat movement

Hope this helps

 

[weathermanGTS]

Hope this helps

absolutely, already checking out the sellers websites!

thanks for the kickstart into the project!

 

[can65]

The project sounds great. Please update us.

 

[Endo]

absolutely, already checking out the sellers websites!

thanks for the kickstart into the project!

Look forward to seeing it!

 

[weathermanGTS]

another question: do I need a seperate retaining ring for the crystal or it it usually coming with the case?

 

[369mafia]

Over 100 watches in 2.5 years? what is that like one every 9 days? lol I build watches and I haven't even touched that many watches in that time frame

good luck with your project. seems completely doable as budget allows.

 

[brahmabull]

Good luck on the project. Very excited for you. I’ve started to consider building my own but still very much in the learning/observing phase and a number of great modders/builders here to commission a build while I slowly learn.

looking forward to seeing your first build come to fruition.

 

[Winni1611]

Viet case is very expensive but need work too to be genlike. I used a milk cse for my 1675 project. Tripdog did a great job on it.
You could also think about using a Cartel case as a base. Needs work too, but as far as I know it takes all gen parts.
Enjoy your jouney

 

[Singapore9]

Milk does a 1680 and would be my first port of call over Viet, as the others have said.

 

[weathermanGTS]

I just contacted Milk... thanks guys! This is such a great support here!

I am afraid, sourcing parts goes faster as my budget allows

 

[369mafia]

I just contacted Milk... thanks guys! This is such a great support here!

I am afraid, sourcing parts goes faster as my budget allows

a common problem we all have here lol

 

[weathermanGTS]

Milk Case is on stock and already ordered. Price is fabulous! You guys rock!

 

[ahungslos]

Just my 2 cents but I would not recommend using a gen dial with anything but a gen movement because the dial feet have to be removed which would decrease the value of the rather expensive gen dial significantly or the movement plate has to be modified in order to keep the dial feet. Depending on the dial type I would use a Ruby or bivintage Vietnam dial.

The same goes for the hands. Gen hand sizes are different from ETA movements. It can be done but I would just go with an ETA handset by rafflestime.

 

[weathermanGTS]

good point! I was already thinking about that... and in addition the aftermarket dials look pretty good in my eyes, so I am really thinking about to use a rep dial (gen movement is not an option).

 

[Endo]

You'll also need to consider a DWO also, if you haven't already

 

[weathermanGTS]

yeah, I forgot to mention it above

 

[Geonor]

@369mafia is talking to Raffles and got him to get in contact with a factory that can produce more accurate hands for the 1016. If I understand it correctly, they should be pretty accurate for the 1680 as well. Especially the hour hand will have the correct lume hole shape and an almost perfect length which has been the hard one to find up until now.

They aren't released yet but keep an eye out on the 1016 thread and you'll see when they drop.

 

[weathermanGTS]

hm... I am really tempted to get this gen 1570 caliber and stay as much on gen parts as possible:

[SOLD] - Gen 1570 Cal

Hello gentlemen! I am selling this "jewelry" cal in excellent condition, fully functional, ready to use. It was bought by M2M and I wanted to blame my own 1680 red superfranken, but I changed my mind in the end. I bought it from a jeweler in my city and it is guaranteed to be 100% genuine...

forum.replica-watch.info

on the one hand this would be a huge change of the project budget, but on the other hand it will be more gen as originally planned... decisions, decisions...

before I hit the button here: any show stopper with that Cal?

 

[Singapore9]

Not to put another member's sales post down as that seems to be at around advertised rate but there are cheaper ways into a 1570 and you get to sell the rest of the watch on

But it's a hell of a step up in project budget! Then again, if you're doing all those other GEN parts, might as well go the full hog!