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Rep and gen. What's the real difference?

timnic54

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I am not talking detail here. Detail is relatively easy to distinguish.

I love watches and I make no apology to the rep world or the gen world for loving both. The short time I have spent on this forum has shown me that the Rep world leads in understanding and accepting both worlds in their own right. Something which has always irritated me in the Gen world is the dismissive ignorance with which anyone prepared to accept the existence and applaud the work of Rep makers is dispatched.

Speak openly in admiration of Noob, JF or anyone else in the Gen world and the alacrity with which you are dismissed will take your breath away. I avoid it with diplomacy and not mixing the two world where possible.

If i thought for one minute that this attitude was based on anything but fear and embarrassment it would be more forgivable. However that simply isn't the case. The Rep world is continually pilloried by the gen world with lies and falseness which would defeat credibility were it not for obvious vested interest in it's vilification.

In some ways this is an understandable attitude were it not for some simple facts about making a great rep

To make a great rep which adequately emulates the Gen you need two things. One is great diligence and attention to detail by the Rep maker.The other is the full cooperation of the Gen maker. This coopertion is not willingly given by the gen maker but moreover it is delivered by the gen makers preparedness to supply its customers with something which makes almost an equal, and often less honest pretence than the rep. What I am taking about here is the myth of exclusivity, the myth that what is being supplied is something special and only really possible by their greatness. If what the gen makers produce is genuinely unique and special, then no Rep maker is going to succeed in producing a 95% accurate rep for less than one tenth of the price.
In other words If Gen makers insist on shoe horning ETA 2824 and the like in to average cases and continue to ask several thousand dollars for the watch, they will get copied very accurately.

This brings me back to the question of Rep/Gen what is the difference.

A rep is really one thing;

To varying quality and fidelity a rep is a watch built to emulate as closely as possible another watch. It is I believe a valid and honourable pursuit and within the business there are some people who do a magnificent job.

A gen however is many more things.

It can range from an utter pretence at exclusivity in the production of a watch which can be easily copied at a very much lower price to an immensely unique product which were anyone to attempt to replicate it with any degree of fidelity would cost not considerably less than the original, if indeed it were possible to come even close to emulating it.
Plus of course just about anything in between those divergent poles.

In my view there will always be watches which will be impossible to emulate with any success. The whole rep world depends on that being far from the case with many watches and makers

Setting aside the makers who effectively make it their business to assist the rep industry by default.

A true gen in my view is a watch which has been made to an individual design which is intrinsically and unto itself unique in some way ether by design, function or materials. A watch which therefore is virtually impossible to accurately emulate for a seriously reduced price. To me this is the true difference between Rep and Gen, though waters are muddied by the watches which lend themselves far too easily to copying.
 

Logan86

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27/12/14
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Gen owners that freak out about reps simply don't like that a man of less means can appear to be in the club.
 

atgm

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A true gen in my view is a watch which has been made to an individual design which is intrinsically and unto itself unique in some way ether by design, function or materials. A watch which therefore is virtually impossible to accurately emulate for a seriously reduced price. To me this is the true difference between Rep and Gen, though waters are muddied by the watches which lend themselves far too easily to copying.

I'm not a big fan of saying "gen" here -- I get what you're saying, but a genuine watch is a genuine watch regardless of the craftmanship or design that went into it. A $50 Casio isn't any less genuine because it's a mass-marketable easily-copied design.

On the other side of the scale, a plain old submariner isn't any more "gen" in my eyes because it's made of super expensive precious metals that you can't rep.

But I get what you're saying -- the gens that are worth admiring are somehow unique and interesting, something that's not another submariner spinoff, something that can really be admired for craftsmanship and/or originality. Watches like the Knights of the Round Table II or the Seiko Eichi II have a lot of craftsmanship in them that I would love to own as a gen.
 

jluisorozco69

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Gotta love both sides of the argument. Keep 'em coming


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Retina

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I admire the man who is contented with just that one watch.


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DiverFan

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In other words If Gen makers insist on shoe horning ETA 2824 and the like in to average cases and continue to ask several thousand dollars for the watch, they will get copied very accurately.

I think watches like the Tudor Black Bay is a case in point here. Unless I had a loupe to really get a look at the dial printing and engraving, I am not sure I could appreciably tell the difference. The premium you're paying for Gen, in that case, is warranty, guaranteed water resistance, service center, etc. If those things aren't important to you, spending $,$$$ starts to make less sense.

Tudor example here: http://www.timelessluxwatches.com/reviews/real-problem-fake-watches
 

tickedoff

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When I first started collecting gen watches, I have to admit that part of the obsession was being able to afford and wear something most could not. After 10 years of collecting , that part faded away, and what was left was an admiration for the time piece itself.
I never owned a gen Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin or Breguet, but I imagine that my admiration would be deeper, and that a good rep would be difficult to copy.
 

Texascat

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2/10/16
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For a lot of Rep's that get it 98% right, the only difference really is dollars!

I'm sure there are some Gens that have some impossible detail or exquisite craftsmanship that cannot be replicated but my opinion is that they are few.

It's hard for me to imagine how a watch could justifiably cost upwards of $15,000 and more. The people that are buying those admittedly live in a different world than me. I guess if you can afford it, that extra 2% is something to admire...
 

nalomb

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I think 'iconic' is the term that comes to mind when I think of a gen that I admire (or more accurately: lust over).
 

atgm

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I think 'iconic' is the term that comes to mind when I think of a gen that I admire (or more accurately: lust over).

That's exactly what it is for me. It's iconic and a homage often seems like a clumsy attempt to rip it off, like someone making a studio with the Paramount logo with a different mountain and different star styles called "EVEREST."

Edit: I just realized this isn't the thread where we were talking about the differences between reps and homages, oops.
 

nalomb

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That's exactly what it is for me. It's iconic and a homage often seems like a clumsy attempt to rip it off, like someone making a studio with the Paramount logo with a different mountain and different star styles called "EVEREST."
.

But the point is well taken -- reps of some brands just make you feel dirty when you think about buying them -- its the urge to have that icon on your wrist only to realize the supermodel you were wanting is a toothless $5 hooker haha
 

apottedplant

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I think within the gen and rep circle, there are people who seek to understand the details, and people who simply see it as a watch and a status symbol.

There's no right or wrong in this, simply a personal preference of where you choose to spend your time on. It takes real effort to read, understand and remember so much details for anything. Plenty of lazy rep 'lover' coming on here, asking for which is the best.

I respect the effort that goes into making a good rep. The amount of attention, craftsmanship, and manufacturing planning that goes into the details. And with good things, it's always in the details.

However, I think it's a fallacy to pretend that the rep is anything more than a rep. I choose to buy a rep, because I feel there are much better places to spend my money elsewhere, and the sheer variety of good reps available.

However, one day, when someone rips off your design and product, your heritage and 'mystic', with great attention to detail, you will do what is necessary to protect your brand, your product, and all your investment spent into building that brand and its designs. And you wouldn't be wrong.

A 50 bucks Casio is a gen. A 200 bucks Invicta is a ripoff. A 400 bucks noob or jf is a rep. Why fight over semantics? A shadow cabinet, however good, is not the government.

Justifications, like ultimatums, is for the weak.
 

ddlox

Getting To Know The Place
28/3/15
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I think the premium you pay for gen is simply the subjective satisfaction of owning original. For the most part, you never really see or feel the difference between rep and gen, it's just always in the back of your mind. That being said, the rep world gives you opportunity to wear great looking pieces that 90% of people cannot purchase (gen equivalents). That in itself has its own satisfaction. My 2 cents.
 

25minutestoolate

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I think I've expressed the view before - reps are like fake boobies. Its all subjective to the beholder as to whether they enhance a figure or not. Is natural great? Yes, for sure. But if one wants a certain idealised figure that one isn't inherently able to have (or afford in the case of some gens), going fake is the only way to get close.
 

nalomb

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I think I've expressed the view before - reps are like fake boobies. Its all subjective to the beholder as to whether they enhance a figure or not. Is natural great? Yes, for sure. But if one wants a certain idealised figure that one isn't inherently able to have (or afford in the case of some gens), going fake is the only way to get close.

Ha! This!! And my old lady's rack agrees.


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timnic54

Respected Member
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I think within the gen and rep circle, there are people who seek to understand the details, and people who simply see it as a watch and a status symbol.

There's no right or wrong in this, simply a personal preference of where you choose to spend your time on. It takes real effort to read, understand and remember so much details for anything. Plenty of lazy rep 'lover' coming on here, asking for which is the best.

I respect the effort that goes into making a good rep. The amount of attention, craftsmanship, and manufacturing planning that goes into the details. And with good things, it's always in the details.

However, I think it's a fallacy to pretend that the rep is anything more than a rep. I choose to buy a rep, because I feel there are much better places to spend my money elsewhere, and the sheer variety of good reps available.

However, one day, when someone rips off your design and product, your heritage and 'mystic', with great attention to detail, you will do what is necessary to protect your brand, your product, and all your investment spent into building that brand and its designs. And you wouldn't be wrong.

A 50 bucks Casio is a gen. A 200 bucks Invicta is a ripoff. A 400 bucks noob or jf is a rep. Why fight over semantics? A shadow cabinet, however good, is not the government.

Justifications, like ultimatums, is for the weak.

Great post and I agree with a lot of what you say.

I don't fixate on the IP ownership lobby. I find it rarely benefits the designers or artists who produced the work and is mostly used to strengthen the strong.
Interestingly the Chinese don't fixate on it either. Mostly the reason china is the land of Reps is that the polpulus is not philosophically attuned to the concept of IP.
Personally I think IP ownership is a generally negative force and overall does more for inhibition than it does for growth. This is just my personal view and many will disagree, I accept that.
I worked for many years as a session musician. My job was to add parts to existing recordings prior to completion and release. In effect I was composing those parts and often they were significant. Part of the reason I got a lot of regular work was I never even talked about credits, copyright or any such thing. Many people like myself worked n that way.
You paint a picture, it's pretty, everyone likes it. So what if a hundred people want to paint the same picture. Paint another!
If watchmakers don't want to get copied, they only have to give us real value for money, most of the motive to copy will disappear.
 

Tigerdragon

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The AP 15400 is a good example the movement is one of the shitiest i've ever seen. And then 15000 Dollar for just an simple Steelwatch? Ridiclious I mean yes it looks great but the price is a joke.
 

timnic54

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The AP 15400 is a good example the movement is one of the shitiest i've ever seen. And then 15000 Dollar for just an simple Steelwatch? Ridiclious I mean yes it looks great but the price is a joke.

True. As I said to make really good Reps you need the full cooperation of the Gen maker. AP are very big cooperators.

Get Gerald Genta to design for you a truly iconic watch. Make it in plain SS without any significantly complex work. Put a plain and cheap to produce movement in it, one which you have been making for many years. One in fact that is not even significantly reliable nor accurate. Give it a closed back option . Don't bother with too much QC, send them out with all kinds of issues. The ask $15000 for it.
What could possibly go wrong !
 

Tigerdragon

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I mean a Submariner costs like 8000 Dollar? I mean yes its "only" steel (ok its 904l steel) but you get a great ceramic bezel and one of the best movements ever made and you can dive with it for the half of the price :D
 

timnic54

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I mean a Submariner costs like 8000 Dollar? I mean yes its "only" steel (ok its 904l steel) but you get a great ceramic bezel and one of the best movements ever made and you can dive with it for the half of the price :D

Just interested to know where you got the idea that a Rolex 3135 movement is one of the best movements ever made.
I have been involved closely with watches and the industry for over 25 years and it is the first time i have heard that said

http://www.timezone.com/2002/09/16/the-rolex-explorer-ref-14270-part-1/

Maybe this review is a little hard, but "best movement ever made' would seem to be light years off the mark. A 2824 is arguably better than a 3135.

As for a ceramic bezel. I once bought a whole bathroom wall full of ceramic tiles designed by Wolfgang Joop for less than half the cost of a Rolex ceramic bezel!