Ratchet wheel drive wheel troublesome on 2824-2 clone

[Dark12]

Had this same issue.....but foolishly cranked on the winder with too much enthusiasm one day when had zero patience-- -winder no lumpy & free-wheels but auto wind is ok --with movement it keeps great time --but i fear the gear on the stem is stripped....dial off job --or can it be removed from the back?

 

[sickopsycho]

Had this same issue.....but foolishly cranked on the winder with too much enthusiasm one day when had zero patience-- -winder no lumpy & free-wheels but auto wind is ok --with movement it keeps great time --but i fear the gear on the stem is stripped....dial off job --or can it be removed from the back?

Pretty sure it's the really fine teeth of either the reversing wheels or the ratchet wheel driving wheel that strip out when that happens. If you have steady hands and don't mind getting a few tools, it's not an extremely difficult repair. The parts are relatively cheap, too. Chances are, you'd open the watch up and it would be apparent pretty quick what stripped.

 

[kennygconspiracy]

Same happened to me. Mainspring barrel teeth got work down. Need a new omega movement. Sigh.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

[Specter1000]

You can fix reversing wheels and ratchet wheel without removing the dial...but I would not recommend it. The reason being, ETA clones tend to leave a lot of brass fines in the movement when the gears strip and really the movement should be cleaned and not just have parts replaced.

 

[sickopsycho]

Ok, gents. I'm wondering what I'm missing here. I got the two "new ETA" reversing wheels from the bay in the mail. I finally opened my watch back up today, and after removing the automatic assembly, I noticed that my watches reversing wheel and aux RW are larger than the ETA gears I received in the mail. See the pictures... in the first picture, the automatic assembly is still in one piece, with the 2 gears next to it. The next picture shows the RW and Aux RW next to the ones that came from my watch. I'm not sure what is wrong here, maybe someone with a more experienced eye can help?
The wheels I ordered are for the ETA2824 #1488 and #1530. Did I receive the wrong wheels, or am I just an idiot?
https://imgur.com/a/rs5DfEG

 

[Specter1000]

I have certainly worked on a lot of ETAs but have never run across this. I double checked my documentation and it appears you ordered the right parts. I am not sure why the winding bridge has larger arbor spacing on the reversing wheels. All I can think of is there must be another ETA model that uses same concept but different wheel sizes, but I couldn't find it. Hopefully someone else here can chime in....maybe KJ2020 or oascom ....those guys have a wealth of information as well and may know.

 

[KJ2020]

Looks like they sent you the wrong parts. The two reversing wheels are only slightly smaller than the reduction wheel.

 

[sickopsycho]

Ok, so it turns out that I am an idiot. I ordered this...
ETA 2671, 2641, 2651, 2661, 2677 reversing wheel #1488 and aux reversing wheel #1530

So obviously not the correct movement at all. It's a shame, I was so excited to find an auction selling both at once that I jumped on it. I'm starting to think that since mine is working now, I'm just going to leave well enough alone. I don't suppose anyone on here has use for these tow parts and would swap for 2824 parts of the same number? Otherwise they are going to sit on my workbench until the cows come home, lol.

I was looking around for a cheap seagull ST2130 movement to take apart, clean and put back together, and ran across an even cheaper movement that apparently is a clone of the seagull? It's the P903, and runs about $25 on aliexpress. Anyone got any experience with those? If it's very similar to the ST2130, I'd like to get a low cost one to practice on. One day, I'd like to swap out the movement in my ARF 116622 with an ETA movement... but I'd like to practice more than a few times so when I buy the new movement, I don't mung it up on installation. I also have a couple other watches I'd like to be able to service myself- and I plan to buy more in the future.

Thanks for the help, guys- I did apply the appropriate oils to the automatic assembly upon reinstallation. I also dropped a tiny amount of 9010 to the rotor, and it seemed to spin a little easier after that oiling. I didn't go any further into the movement for oiling, but maybe I'll get a timegrapher and try it if I ever get the seagull to practice on. =)

 

[Specter1000]

what I tell everyone wanting to dive into the art of watchmaking...go on fleabay....find Ramon, aka thewatchcollector from PI...go and buy a dozen Seiko 7S26 movements and strip them down, clean them and rebuild them....then buy one of his "full" Seiko 5 watches and strip it down, build it up, replace the crystal...do it all, then do one of his 6309 or SKX divers (you'll have a great diver when done).

you can do all this for about $50...and you'll be an expert when done....ETA's will be a piece of cake after that.

 

[Oascom]

Kudos for trying to fix it yourself.

Like you mentioned it's a wrong part.

I have to earn you learning how to disassemble and assembly watches is addicting.

You going to make a lot of mistakes along the way and it's frustrating sometimes but from my experience patience is the key.
Never rush, when you are tired and frustrated leave it and comeback another day.

Cheers mate

 

[sickopsycho]

what I tell everyone wanting to dive into the art of watchmaking...go on fleabay....find Ramon, aka thewatchcollector from PI...go and buy a dozen Seiko 7S26 movements and strip them down, clean them and rebuild them....then buy one of his "full" Seiko 5 watches and strip it down, build it up, replace the crystal...do it all, then do one of his 6309 or SKX divers (you'll have a great diver when done).

you can do all this for about $50...and you'll be an expert when done....ETA's will be a piece of cake after that.

I found Ramon, but don't see him selling any 7s26 movements. I have several Seikos, including the SKX diver. In fact, the watch that got me hooked was a Seiko 5 I bought with a broken date complication. I tore it down, found that the date driving wheel and intermediate wheel (i think it was) were chewed up. I made an assumption that the previous owner attempted to adjust the date in the time period that you're not supposed to (10pm-2am) and broke the plastic wheels. I purchased replacements, put it back together, and it runs properly now. I did not attempt to regulate it, but it is not particularly in need, either.

I will grab a couple more of them, and keep on practicing. Thanks for the advice =)

Kudos for trying to fix it yourself.

Like you mentioned it's a wrong part.

I have to earn you learning how to disassemble and assembly watches is addicting.

You going to make a lot of mistakes along the way and it's frustrating sometimes but from my experience patience is the key.
Never rush, when you are tired and frustrated leave it and comeback another day.

Cheers mate

Thanks for the words of encouragement. Yes while I was motivated by the money I would save doing this myself, I have found that I really enjoy the satisfaction of doing this work myself. Putting a broken watch back together and watching it start keeping time is a very good feeling. =)

 

[Dark12]

Thanks, I'll check it out --i managed to fix my PO a while back when winding got stiff---2824 clone ---but anyone had success removing the Omega "'cage'' on the new SMP's ?