Question about hand setter tools

[jmb]

I have decided that the movement in my noobmariner is terminal and have ordered both 2813 and 4813 movements from Cousins. I will use the 4813 if it is a direct swap for the el-cheapo noob movement.

Is a "hand setter" needed? I was going to order one but there are a lot of different sized ones and most say "ideal for quartz movements" so I didn't. If I know how they are supposed to work I can probably turn one out on the lathe as I have aluminum and Delrin round stock. I got the impression that the diameter and depth of hole in the nylon/plastic end is specific to particular movement types? Is this to make sure the hand is pressed to the correct "depth"?

 

[fakemaster]

That is correct. The holes are designed to fit over certain pins. Not only that the diameter is important because you don't want the thing sliding around and scratching the hands. I have like six of them in varying sizes.

 

[jmb]

OK, that's kinda what I thought but wasn't sure the actual depth of the hole was important. I think what I'll do is to take a chunk of aluminum round stock, bore each end and insert a Delrin rod into the bored section. I will then drill an itty-bitty hole perfectly centered in the end of the Delrin rod.

I'm assuming that when I get the hands off it will be somewhat obvious what diameter I need to drill the holes to?

 

[d4m.test]

Well doesnt that sound like a fancy tansy way to go about making hand setters... I wish I had all that ability and time... Blahzee blah blah blah.
Simple folk like me just use a piece of tissue paper and a toothpick with a dimple drilled in to the end of it. Nothing fancy like delrin inserts and perfectly bored out little holes.

I hope you know Im just bustin your you know whats! That sounds like a very good idea, and there is probably some money in it for you if you were to produce these (hint hint hint)

T

 

[fakemaster]

I wouldn't use metal on metal myself.

 

[jmb]

Delrin <> metal, it is similar to nylon only stronger.

Sure, I'll add hand-setters to the current crop of motorcycle gadgets I cobble together and flog on the 'Bay! :wink:

Hmmm, if I start cranking these things out how soon before I'm able to retire? :mrgreen:

 

[d4m.test]

Delrin is an amazing material!!! It is basically a plastic material that is super strong and wears down very very slowly.
When I had to replace the timing chain tensioners in my Porsche 944, 944s and 951's they were all Delrin parts. They were typically good for 15000 miles of wear (the timing chain literally runs over these Delrin pads constantly for 15000 miles).
Put me down for a set...

 

[jmb]

Delrin is also useful in suspension bushings if you want almost zero deflection and don't mind whatever you're in riding like an old buckboard! I had a '71 240Z with Delrin suspension bushings and it cornered like a go-cart!

Are you serious about wanting something? I don't even know how big to make the holes!!! [smilie=icon_geek.gif]

OK, I found some info on a site that listed hole sizes of 1.5 mm, 1 mm, .8 mm, and .5 mm. I'll convert them to "real" measurements and see if I have the drill bits...

 

[d4m.test]

Absolutely I would buy a set! If the design is what I am imagining from your description it would make all of my pre-drilled toothpicks obsolete!

 

[jmb]

OK, I ordered the drill bits and will try to make up a prototype set this week and post the results. I decided to order the correct size metric bits instead of using my existing "pretty close" fractional drills as I didn't have anything close in the two smallest sizes anyway. Also, the 1/4" looked/felt a bit skinny so I ordered some 5/16" stock to make the handles out of.

I e-mailed Cousins to add a movement holder to my order as well but if they miss it I may have to make one of those as well. I have no idea of dimensions but looking at some pics on the forum I can probably "guesstimate" pretty close...

 

[d4m.test]

JMB, several years ago I knew a watchmaker in Laguna Beach, CA. He was a fairly young guy who had an incredible knack for fixing watches others said could not be fixed. He restored several vintage American watches for me including a platinum Hamilton doctors watch...
I once asked him how it was that he fixed these watches when others could not and he said that it was all in the tools that he used. His father was also a watchmaker and made almost ALL of his own tools. He showed me tools that were nearly 100 years old that were still very accurate and did the job that store bought tools could not.
I am intrigued by your interest in doing this, and as I do not know your skill level or interest level... I may have a list of tools I would like to have made.
T

 

[jmb]

I'm not really very skilled. I spent most of my life in electronics and computers but always liked tinkering, modding guns, and restoring cars/motorcycles. Late in life I decided I'd had enough of the IT and support business so I quit, took a few semesters of welding and machine shop and changed careers. I've been a machinist, now, for a couple of years and really enjoy it as I don't have to put up with whiny computer users anymore! :wink:

I have a small assortment of machine tools out in my shop that I make stuff with and generally keep myself amused. This watch thing is something that came on all of a sudden and I can't really explain it. I was just looking for a replacement watch and stumbled across this "rep thing", and I was kind of immediately addicted! So, building watch related stuff is a logical branch for me to explore...

 

[trailboss99]

I predict that jmb is gunna become a very busy bloke!
Reseating hands is by feel BTW. You will feel when it's down firm.
The other problem you may come across here is the the new MVTs do not use the same hand sizes as the old ones. Most CN MVTs are 152/100/17 but it can vary with some older/cheaper MVTs.


Col.

 

[jmb]

That is something I've been wondering about. I just ordered current 2813 and 4813 movements from Cousins and the easiest one will be going into my new "current" noobmariner. D4ME advised me the noob uses an A21J but a lower end one than the 2813 so I reckon even the 2813 will be an "upgrade"! Do you think the hands will fit in this case or is this something I have determine whan I get stuff apart?

 

[jmb]

I got an e-mail from Cousins informing me they couldn't manually add anything to a web order so I guess I'll "whittle" one once I get the old movement out...

 

[jmb]

The drill bits for my hand-setter project arrived today. Geeze, those .5mm suckers are little bitty suckers! The aluminum stock should be here in a day or so and I have the Delrin already. If nothing else, this will give me something to keep me busy while recovering from knee surgery in a couple of weeks...

 

[jmb]

CBR's 1.5 mm / 1 mm Hand Presser Tool

I got a few spare minutes today so I turned out the "large" tool for CBR and will hopefully finish the other and get them in the mailbox before I head into surgery Monday morning. The presser body/handle is 5/16" 6061 aluminum and the presser inserts are 3/16" Delrin. Here's what the final design looks like:

The business end of the 1.00 mm tip:

I decided to drill and tap the handle for stainless steel set screws instead of gluing in the tips:

 

[otakki]

Wow!

 

[CBR]

I will say it again... these hand setters are incredible. They are so comfortable and easy to use.
I took mine in to my watchmaker and had a hard time getting them back from him. He has a $300 hand setting press that sits under a cover and hasnt been used for 2 years. He uses a home made set also, but they are no where near as well made as these.

 

[alvinado]

those are incredible, you made these yourself?