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Omega V2 Ploprof Review and Comparison to the V1

ThinkBachs

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Hello, and welcome to my overview of the Omega Ploprof. First, we start with the history of the Ploprof, which you can read about here >>>.
Now, on to the good stuff. :)

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Both versions are available in three colors: Black, White, and Orange. WE offers a Blue version, but Omega never created a Ploprof 1200 in this
color, so it's a fantasy version.

There was great excitement when it was announced that the V1 Ploprof was introduced. So what that it had happy feet, it was new and unique.
Excitement soon waned for this as people got there hands on it. Looks great, but there were issues.

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The logo was nice, but them damn happy clown feet were just wrong. On both versions, I have a feeling that the hour hand is off in color also,
but I haven't seen a gen in person so can't confirm this.

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The V2 fixed the logo. For some reason, the image above shows that the "M" has an "Alfalfa" hair doo, but I don't see this on mine.

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Side by side, it seems that the V2 has a better AR than the V1. The V1 has issues with the crystal in that it is a lamination of two crystals using a
water based glue that when wet, wicks water between the laminates. When this happens, you get a hazing that is not repairable. Some have tried
to avoid this by removing the crystal (with extreme force as it's in there TIGHT!) and sealing the outer edge of the laminate but this is a PITA.

Some of the first V2's had issues with the AR, which showed tiny scratches very easily. The factory became aware of the issue and I believe that it
has been corrected. They also corrected the V2 crystal by using a solid version, eliminating the lamination problem on the V1.

Other changes to the V2 included the bezel lock upgrade, improved deployant and two piece case back.

On the V1, the bezel lock (orange pushy thing) is short and non-functional. The bezel is able to turn in either direction simply by turning it. On the
V2, you need to push the release to turn the bezel. This is really neat, but a challenge to do when wearing the watch.

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Fun time.

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The deployants side by side, V1 on the left, V2 on the right. The V2 has a better, and clearer engraving- very nice. Gen deployant below...

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Gen deployant.

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Is there something missing on the V1 (left)? Yep! It's missing the extension that is included on the V2 deployant. Notice also the PUSH on the V2,
which is missing on the V1. The V1 deployant is a huge disappointment. Both deployants slip, but the V2 doesn't slip as much. No worries though
because it can be modded to keep from slipping.

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V2 deployant

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The case back on the V2 is a two piece affair, as it should be. The V1 is a "fake" case back which looks like it could be two pieces but is not.

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Here we have a shot of the V1 showing the laminated crystal and one piece case back. The V1 is infamous for having issues with the glue used to
put the two pieces together. Once water has seeped in around the crystal, the result is a hazing that cannot be repaired easily, if at all.

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V1 insert removed using a heat gun to soften the glue tape. You can also see that the bezel insert uses tape to hold it in place, and the back of
the insert is painted over the lume.

Here's the V2 with it's insert removed...

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Heat was also used to remove the insert. You can see where the lume is applied directly to the bezel, which gives the insert a "hollow" look in
bright light. For more on this, here's what I did:

This is going to Goin for a complete relume, but he asked me to take the insert off before sending- so I did. :)

1. Remove rubber strap
2. Use a heat gun and hold over the insert going in circles around the insert
3. Use my handy dandy mechanics gloves to hold the watch and work the insert back and forth with my thumbs
4. When the insert is moved as far as it can go with a little effort, heat again
5. Work the insert some more
6. When it spins around, take some duct tape and press down gently on the insert all the way around
7. Lift the insert out.

Ta Da! :)

Ploprof-Bezel-Insert-Removal-1.jpg


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The leather on the finger of the glove works fine for working the insert. I didn't press very hard at all, not wanting to scratch the painted underside.
This worked perfectly and was easy to do.

Now to get some peanut butter and clean the glue off the back of the insert. As far as applying the correct super-lume, I doubt that it will bother
the paint if it's dabbed on and not brushed on firmly then pushed around. One thought might be to apply a thin coat of sealer but I really don't
think that's necessary. Once I get the watch back from Goin, I'll post the new lume shots.

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It's not as noticable in normal light but never looks as nice as the V1. Luming the back of this with a good super-lume will fix this right up!

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This gen shot may explain why the factory thought doing this would be a good idea. This is probably a good point to mention that the teeth on the
V1 bezel are thicker than those on the V2. If you compare the V2 to the gen photo above, you can see that they made the ribs/teeth/things that
stick out so you can grip the bezel are thinner. So the V1 got that wrong.

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Talking about lume, here's the gen.

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And the V2 rep. From what I can tell, the V1 and V2 have the same lume. The lume can start out bright enough for a rep, but doesn't stay bright.
I have noticed that it does last enough during the night that I can still tell what time it is after several hours, but it has to be pretty dark. The
bezel lume is a little worse than the dial. A super-lume for this watch will make a huge improvement and is recommended.

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The watch comes with a rubber strap that will fit the jolliest of giants!

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Should you decide that you'd like to put a gen deployant on the strap, you can order these no problem from Ofrei.com for a mere $272 >>>

If you'd rather wait, or mod the V2 deployant, then here's what I did...

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Push the PUSH button and slide the thing apart (after removing the straps of course).

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On the side of the PUSH, remove just one of the teeny-tiny screws. This will allow you to work on the teeth. I don't have a before shot of this, but
there's a bit of extra material that needs to be removed.

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I used a Dremel on it's lowest speed, but still could have done a better job. Since this area is covered by the buckle, I don't see it so I guess it
didn't go too badly. Doing this allows the teeth to bite into the corresponding teeth in the buckle. We're not done yet though...

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I took an extra windshield wiper blade and trimmed a sliver of the rubber (better than a rubber band!)

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Then inserted it in the slot so that the PUSH button couldn't go as far down as it can. Then put it back together and slide it into the buckle. If for
some reason you have trouble getting it back in, turn it over and push the little "slide guide" thing down and it'll go in just fine. This mod works
perfectly.

Another great idea for this fix can be found here by MartyD >>> using a Bic lighter flint spring cut to just a little longer than those shown above.

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Some of you may want to replace the rubber strap with a mesh. There is a very popular mesh available for $50 from Suppaparts.com found here >>>
It takes about two weeks to get to the states so be patient. You may find others on eBay and elsewhere, but they are the same thing and cost more.
Personally it didn't do it for me. The rubber strap does a great job of keeping the heavy Ploprof case were it's suppose to be, and the mesh is a little
narrower than the rubber. I also didn't care for having the extension pieces on the mesh. It was distracting from the flow of the bracelet and didn't
feel right. So, it's gone to a new home. On the other hand, there are those that are very happy with it.

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That's all I can think of right now. Next step for me is to find someone to do the bezel insert and dial/hand lume and I'm a happy camper.

Important Update:

mike00 just posted a review of the updated V1 21J version offered by Andrew that may be of interest to you cheap.... :p

"What can I say... Same watch compared to the ultimate besides the movement/faux bezel lock button/2 piece caseback.

So it has:

* correct logo
* new style clasp
* new style strap (improved compared to the V1)
* improved crystal (no delamination issues compared to the v1)
* perfect lume, no doubt about that

You can't go wrong with this watch for 148 USD IMO. (this one came from Andrew, again perfect QC)"

Since he "steals" my pics, I guess it's Ok to steal his. :)

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Details:

MOVEMENT: Asian 2813 Automatic movement, 21J , Steel Movement Holder,
CASE DIAMETER: 48mm
THICKNESS: 18mm
**Case Profile 1:1 with Genuine Case
DIAL COLOR: Black Dial with Stick Markers
**Blue Lume on Markers, Hands & also Bezel
CASE MATERIAL: Brushed Stainless Steel 316L
BRACELET: Orange Rubber Strap With Single Fold Deployant with pressed glide diver's extension Clasp
FRONT GLASS: Sapphire Crystal with AR Coating
BACK GLASS: Solid Case Caseback With Detail Seamaster Insignia
BEZEL: Black Bezel with White Numerals
HACK MOVEMENT: Yes
CLASP TYPE: Deployant Clasp (Single Fold)
DATE INDICATOR: at 4:30 location

TrustyTime >>>
http://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/awards.php
 

todaystheday

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Well what can we say what a great review been waiting a while for good review like that ;)
 

Lex2009

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29/10/09
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Have to say the same ... very good review with some extra tipps ...

SHOULD BE STICKY ...
 

SMIDSY

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amazing review... we need more of this type of review... +1 rep!
 

Wiz

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Very nice review!

About the V1 crystal issue. Does anyone ever tried to use a UV sealant to replace the water-based glue they used?

If not, I'll be more than happy to give it a shot!
 

ThinkBachs

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Looking for the UV sealant fix on RG but haven't found it yet.

To remove the crystal from the case:

You can use a 20mm deep socket with paper towel on the end or t-shirt material and chunk of wood to whack it with. I laid my case over the center of a roll of mesh dry wall tape and let the crystal fall onto a towel underneath. :)

Here's a link to some great pics with the mesh bracelet on it >>>
 

SMIDSY

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thats not a bad idea wiz.......
 

Wiz

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Wiz

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No need for a wood rod when you have a crystal press :)
 

Dr.Verylong

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2/8/09
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System won't let me add reputation ("You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to ThinkBachs again.")

Thank you for the review and the modding advice. I suppose that reluming the dial is a helluva job, though :(
 

GC

I'm Pretty Popular
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Thank you ThinkB!!!

Now I'm ready to buy one!!!!!!!!

Bravo on the excellent review...
joker.claping.2.gif
 

todaystheday

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just got my ultimate ploprof strap to stick on my V1 for now so so so much better than v1 strap well impressed
 

bewart1

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2/10/09
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Top review!!!! ****

Nice One Thinkbachs for a great review, i've got one on order !

Maybe going for a genuine Omega mesh with the older clasp ( $247 delivered ), cant decide!!
:picard:
 

duskrikk

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24/9/10
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Hi Thinkbachs, got passed a link to this thread from RepGeek as I've just bought this PloProf as my first rep. I'd mentioned the only thing I noticed was clasp loosening on its own, well just completed the remedy as per your advice/pics and seems sorted:)!!.....nice1 thanks.
 

ThinkBachs

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I wear this all the time, even sleeping, just to make sure that the fix works and I haven't had it slip once. Before, if I shook the watch on my wrist hard enough I could make it slip. Neat if you're lazy and need it to be a little bit bigger, but not the way it should be.

One of the things that I really like about this watch is that I don't care if it gets marks on the deployant or elsewhere- it's a work watch that IMHO looks better when it shows wear! :)
 

ThinkBachs

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First post updated with how to remove the bezel insert for reluming. IMHO, don't add more lume to the bezel, add it to the back of the insert. Some have wondered if the binding component in the lume would mess up the paint on the backside of the insert, I believe that if it is applied without pressure or brushing it around over the paint, it'll be just fine. Pics of the upgrade will be coming soon...
 

xeebot

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Great review! Thanks for putting this together. I just ordered one a few days ago.