I ve sold my freshly serviced noob v10 and now i wanna give a try to the V9 F 126660 blue with clone VR 3135…… yet ordered and waiting for arrive…..
I let you know…
QC s were very good for me
I let you know…
QC s were very good for me
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"Official DSSD Club"
- Thread starter GC
- Start date
yeah majority of them are just using mix parts, sometimes I think its just renaming. One very common part is they still use noob 022 serial bracelet.
ARF hands are short, the other fact usually do not have aligned OGEV and use noob parts.
boring
The Noob v10 with improved lume pip, and built to suit a VR/S movement, would be the ultimate 126660, IMO. And for 116660, the ARF v2 with corrected OGEV ring alignment and improved dial colour, or the BPF with a VR/S movement and improved pip. Any of those would accommodate a Super Franken nicely.yeah majority of them are just using mix parts, sometimes I think its just renaming. One very common part is they still use noob 022 serial bracelet.
ARF hands are short, the other fact usually do not have aligned OGEV and use noob parts.
boring
The APF and V9F are pretty good, but both have gotten the pip wrong, the CGs aren't quite right, the OGEV is still badly misaligned and the incorrect font is used on the ring, too -- the 12 and 13 series should match the DEEPSEA font, whereas the 11 should match the SUPERLATIVE font; and, the DEEPSEA font is just wrong. Particularly the "S".
But, if any "factory" built the perfect rep, which they absolutely could, there would be no need for customers to keep buying future releases. So we play the game...
Edit: the BPF 136660 with VR/S would also be one that I would go for. Unfortunately, it's currently only available with the A3235, though.
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yet release?
bro….i know that no one is perfect and every piece has his flaws…but i think that v9 or other has so little that you couldn t see them with naked eye….and …..i m not an expert of oll particulars but i don t see neither of what you mention upon
Sorry, my last comment about the BPF was unclear. I meant that I would like a BPF 136660 with VR or VS movement, but it's only available with the A3235 at this time. I've edited my post to clarify that.
Yes, some of the imperfections on other watches I mentioned are not obvious; they are things that changed between models (e.g., different font on the OGEV ring on the 11 vs 12/13, but on some 12 and 13 reps, they used the 11's font), and some need a loupe, such as the "S" on DEEPSEA on the APF and V9F 126660 are flat at the top -- more like a back to front 'Z' than an 'S'.
I realise I'm being fussy, but if I were to build a Super Franken, I would want those things to be accurate.
Update: Here's the OGEV ring of an 116660 next to a 126660. Note the different font. The majority of 12/13 reps still use the 11 font.
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Yes i ve seen bro….. there are a slight difference between the two fonts……..i think that noob has the correct one for 126
It sure does. Hence my comment about it being the perfect 12, if it had a VR/S movement.
I'm sorry guys . . . my BK-modded Deepsea has a Swiss ETA, which I consider to be the perfect movement for a multitude of watches. I don't see the point in having a Chinese clone movement that may fail eventually on a watch that nobody will open except at the Rolex headquartes in Switzerland as they are the only onces who can pressure test a watch case to 20,0000 feet debt.
A clone movement makes sense on a watch with an open caseback, but for watches that are closed forever I take a bullet-proof Swiss ETA or Selita any given day over a Chinese clone.
A clone movement makes sense on a watch with an open caseback, but for watches that are closed forever I take a bullet-proof Swiss ETA or Selita any given day over a Chinese clone.
I don't disagree that an ETA movement is a good choice. I have several reps with gen ETAs in them. Solid movement, easier to service and parts are interchange with Selita if you can't get genuine ETA replacement parts, etc.
But, ETAs fail, too. And clone movements are improving at a pretty steady pace, and they're easy to replace.
If you don't plan on modify your rep with genuine dial, hands, DW, then there is probably no need to get a rep with a VR/S movement, unless you want your time-setting crown action to be clockwise instead of anticlockwise (for 31x movements), or if the sound of the ETA rotor bothers you.
A rep with a VR/S clone movement means you have options that aren't available with the 2836/2824 movements. And I would like to build a Super Franken DSSD at some point.
I know this has been said before, but I never saw it first hand till today: the colour of the Noob 116660 JC dial looks so different to the ARF depending on the lighting, even though the lighting is the same.
The Noob dial looks almost black without direct light on it.
Excuse the plastic - still deciding whether to C&R or keep.
The Noob dial looks almost black without direct light on it.
Excuse the plastic - still deciding whether to C&R or keep.
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I maintain . . . some folks are really overthinking this to a point that borders on insanity. Any of these latest generation watches is so well made that they'll pass for a GEN unless compared directly to a GEN, which will never happen in real life. For every Deepsea there are 20, perhaps 30 or more Submariners out there in the wild. I've never seen one with my own eyes, and I meet people wearing GEN Submariners and GMTs almost daily in my line of work.
Which shade of blue is the most correct cannot be shown in photos. Again, only next to a GEN Cameron could one determine which factory got it closest. I had several Deepseas now and I don't know which one is best because I can't compare it to a GEN.
If anything, a modder can fine-tune a Deepsea. The most important mod is a GEN bezel insert purely for the Platinum inlay.
Which shade of blue is the most correct cannot be shown in photos. Again, only next to a GEN Cameron could one determine which factory got it closest. I had several Deepseas now and I don't know which one is best because I can't compare it to a GEN.
If anything, a modder can fine-tune a Deepsea. The most important mod is a GEN bezel insert purely for the Platinum inlay.
StrangwaysAtoll
Getting To Know The Place
Did anyone run a pressure test and have issues with the HEV on the Noob or ARF?
Are the gaskets source able to replace with gen or “to spec Swiss” aftermarket ?
Looking to take the plunge but would like to get decent 10 or 20 bar resistance out of the DSSD..
Are the gaskets source able to replace with gen or “to spec Swiss” aftermarket ?
Looking to take the plunge but would like to get decent 10 or 20 bar resistance out of the DSSD..
I can't speak for all, but I had a Seagull movement installed in one of my my Noob v7 watches, and tests run at that time confirmed it was water tight to 50 metres.
I don't know about gaskets/o-rings. BK would likely be able to confirm.
BespokeBezel
Getting To Know The Place
- 31/7/21
- 21
- 3
- 3
Hello all,
First, thank you for the wealth of info on these watches. Big wrist at 21cm so this watch looks like the avg sub on me.
I've got my eyes on a 126660 ARF V4 with 2824 in black. TD has confirmed it is indeed an ARF. From my research, this seems to be the "best" workhorse combo for me currently available.
Question: is the titanium case back on the ARF true titanium or painted. I asked TD and their response was " not sure about case back, but since it's from ARF, it must not have been painted."
First, thank you for the wealth of info on these watches. Big wrist at 21cm so this watch looks like the avg sub on me.
I've got my eyes on a 126660 ARF V4 with 2824 in black. TD has confirmed it is indeed an ARF. From my research, this seems to be the "best" workhorse combo for me currently available.
Question: is the titanium case back on the ARF true titanium or painted. I asked TD and their response was " not sure about case back, but since it's from ARF, it must not have been painted."
Believe was just the noob v10s that were painted,though uncertain re true titanium of any