Noob Yacht-Master bezel insert fitment

[ROXOLO]

I have this Noob Yacht-Master (older version, a2824 316L) purchased through M2M and that I initially was quite disappointed with: SEL fitment was terrible, so was bracelet finish, and bezel insert looked extremely fake and wasn't lining up good with dial markers.

Sent the watch over to Tomrep for premium bezel mod (200€) bracelet refinish (100€) and SEL fix (20€).

Got the watch back yesterday. Thoroughly very happy with Tomrep's work (that bezel insert, while expensive, has a finish quality and a color only a get could wish for) BUT there's one thing about that watch I was hoping would get fixed in the process, and didn't (although it seems slightly less pronounced): bezel insert sits slightly recessed in bezel; there's a "staircase" between insert and outer ring, which creates a shadow / gap. It seems to be and "issue" with that batch of Noob because I've seen a review on Repgeek for that same watch and the issue was there (although not mentioned in the review, where the watch was apparently awarded "super rep").
A gen 6 digits yacht-master has an insert that sits flush, and because of the light color of the insert, the difference is quite obvious (no shadow vs shadow).

Now I have no idea how the Noob watch is built and how the insert is fixed in the bezel (glued in?) but, is it something that can be changed, or should I just stop obsessing about that tiny flaw and enjoy what's still a very very nice watch? It seems stupid to get stuck on this, because a rep will never
be 100% perfect, but on the other hand, I've invested some money into modding it, so if the last tiny flaw CAN get fixed, I'd rather go all the way

Here are some pictures; it has to be noted that the problem gets more apparent on photos (probably due to higher contrast) than in real. I'd like to have people's opinion.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Raddave]

I think the real ones are like that

 

[KJ2020]

I agree that a nearly flush insert fit in a bezel looks best. So that is always my goal. Most gen inserts will sit slightly recessed below the bezel rim, often this is nearly imperceptible. Gen inserts are pressure fit needing no glue or adhesive. Rep Rolex inserts with very few exceptions (ARF and ZZF and V10 Noob Subs) are glued in.

The insert has to come come out to reposition it. This requires removing the bezel. You should have a quality bezel removal tool to do this.

https://m.pt.aliexpress.com/item/328...7e90ebf&is_c=Y

I taped dial protectors on the blades to further protect the case from damage. The bracelet should be removed. The tool is metal so extreme care is needed to do this without scratching up the case or the bezel. The watch head goes in dial side down. Turn the wheel very slowly and watch the blades closely as they approach the bezel to make sure they advance inward UNDER the bezel and don't get caught on the outer bezel rim or the bezel can get gouged up.

After the bezel is off, use a toothpick or small plastic pry tool to separate the insert away from it. You can use a razor blade if you are careful. You must cut through the glue or tape bond. Then all the residual glue needs to be completely cleaned away from both the underside of the insert and the bezel well. WD-40 works well but I wouldn't get it on top of a treated insert, or into insert cutouts on a ceramic one. You can also use very strong tape like Gorilla tape to pull the glue off the pieces.

Next, the bezel should be re-pressed onto the case. Care needs to be taken that the bezel gasket does not get mangled up. These are pretty fragile if mishandled and replacements are virtually impossible to find. Aftermarket ones are not compatible and the exact sizes and shapes (edge profiles) of rep bezel gaskets (called a hytrel ring) are not all the same. A crystal press and a bezel die should be used to re-press the bezel.

At long last you are ready to re-fit the insert. Glue is too messy and uncontrollable. I use 3M tape rings.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCS-3M-AD...-/223979706440

These come in a couple different sizes but it really doesn't matter for how I do it. No matter what size you get they often don't fit perfectly so I cut them up in about 30 degree arcs and place 6 of the arcs around the bezel well. You do not need complete coverage. You can also use the tape ring middles as it is all the same material.

Here is where you need to determine how many adhesive layers you need to get the height you want. The tape is ultra thin, I have used up to 3 layers to get my height. Start by putting a wide piece of masking tape sticky side up on the underside of the lower 1/3 of the insert. You can fold the outer edges in on themselves to make little tab handles.This lets you easliy lift the insert back up out of the well as you test different layer heights.

Cut small strips of the 3M tape (10 degree arcs) and remove the backing from one side. Put the sticky side in the well, then remove the backing from the other side. Removing these backings can be tedious and frustrating but is made much easier by using a loupe, a razor blade and two pairs of tweezers. Like any motor skill, it becomes much faster with repetition. Test fit the insert by laying just the top half into the well on top of the one layer of tape strip. It will likely not be enough. Remove the insert using your masking tape pull tab without peeling off your first layer of test tape out of the well. Add a second or more layers til you get the height you want.

Now place your 30 degree arcs of 3 layers (for example) of tape around the bezel well, butted up against the outer perimeter wall. Don't let the tape layers get bunched up against or climb the wall. Here comes the money shot.

GENTLY lay the insert triangle at 12 oclock and make absolutely sure its perfect. Your masking tape pull tab is still on at this point. If the alignment is off, remove the insert and re-position it. When satisfied, press the triangle in a little more firmly and hold it down while you peel away the masking tape from the underside of the insert. Then press the insert home onto the 6 three layer 30 degree arcs of double-sided tape. This stuff is mega strong but I wouldn't get it wet repeatedly as that will weaken its adhesion.

There are other ways and variations on how to do this. This is just my preferred method after doing a number of them. If all goes well it usually takes about an hour. I strive for the insert to be exactly flush, that's where I Iike it even though my gen sits slightly recessed down.

Good luck, and remember we are all counting on you, haha.

 

[bc1221]

I agree that a nearly flush insert fit in a bezel looks best. So that is always my goal. Most gen inserts will sit slightly recessed below the bezel rim, often this is nearly imperceptible. Gen inserts are pressure fit needing no glue or adhesive. Rep Rolex inserts with very few exceptions (ARF and ZZF and V10 Noob Subs) are glued in.

The insert has to come come out to reposition it. This requires removing the bezel. You should have a quality bezel removal tool to do this.

https://m.pt.aliexpress.com/item/328...7e90ebf&is_c=Y

I taped dial protectors on the blades to further protect the case from damage. The bracelet should be removed. The tool is metal so extreme care is needed to do this without scratching up the case or the bezel. The watch head goes in dial side down. Turn the wheel very slowly and watch the blades closely as they approach the bezel to make sure they advance inward UNDER the bezel and don't get caught on the outer bezel rim or the bezel can get gouged up.

After the bezel is off, use a toothpick or small plastic pry tool to separate the insert away from it. You can use a razor blade if you are careful. You must cut through the glue or tape bond. Then all the residual glue needs to be completely cleaned away from both the underside of the insert and the bezel well. WD-40 works well but I wouldn't get it on top of a treated insert, or into insert cutouts on a ceramic one. You can also use very strong tape like Gorilla tape to pull the glue off the pieces.

Next, the bezel should be re-pressed onto the case. Care needs to be taken that the bezel gasket does not get mangled up. These are pretty fragile if mishandled and replacements are virtually impossible to find. Aftermarket ones are not compatible and the exact sizes and shapes (edge profiles) of rep bezel gaskets (called a hytrel ring) are not all the same. A crystal press and a bezel die should be used to re-press the bezel.

At long last you are ready to re-fit the insert. Glue is too messy and uncontrollable. I use 3M tape rings.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCS-3M-AD...-/223979706440

These come in a couple different sizes but it really doesn't matter for how I do it. No matter what size you get they often don't fit perfectly so I cut them up in about 30 degree arcs and place 6 of the arcs around the bezel well. You do not need complete coverage. You can also use the tape ring middles as it is all the same material.

Here is where you need to determine how many adhesive layers you need to get the height you want. The tape is ultra thin, I have used up to 3 layers to get my height. Start by putting a wide piece of masking tape sticky side up on the underside of the lower 1/3 of the insert. You can fold the outer edges in on themselves to make little tab handles.This lets you easliy lift the insert back up out of the well as you test different layer heights.

Cut small strips of the 3M tape (10 degree arcs) and remove the backing from one side. Put the sticky side in the well, then remove the backing from the other side. Removing these backings can be tedious and frustrating but is made much easier by using a loupe, a razor blade and two pairs of tweezers. Like any motor skill, it becomes much faster with repetition. Test fit the insert by laying just the top half into the well on top of the one layer of tape strip. It will likely not be enough. Remove the insert using your masking tape pull tab without peeling off your first layer of test tape out of the well. Add a second or more layers til you get the height you want.

Now place your 30 degree arcs of 3 layers (for example) of tape around the bezel well, butted up against the outer perimeter wall. Don't let the tape layers get bunched up against or climb the wall. Here comes the money shot.

GENTLY lay the insert triangle at 12 oclock and make absolutely sure its perfect. Your masking tape pull tab is still on at this point. If the alignment is off, remove the insert and re-position it. When satisfied, press the triangle in a little more firmly and hold it down while you peel away the masking tape from the underside of the insert. Then press the insert home onto the 6 three layer 30 degree arcs of double-sided tape. This stuff is mega strong but I wouldn't get it wet repeatedly as that will weaken its adhesion.

There are other ways and variations on how to do this. This is just my preferred method after doing a number of them. If all goes well it usually takes about an hour. I strive for the insert to be exactly flush, that's where I Iike it even though my gen sits slightly recessed down.

Good luck, and remember we are all counting on you, haha.

Pretty much what kJ said. That is probably just glued on but rep factories use double sided tape. If you want it flushed, you may need to test a few different thicknesses of double sided tape. I would prob just buy the thinnest one and add another layer > test fit > another layer > test fit. Rinse and repeat until you get it flushed.


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[ROXOLO]

Thank you guys, makes sense - disappointed to read that a Noob insert holds in place with tape ^^lol I thought it was mainly lower end reps. That makes potential waterproofing of the watch useless... but OK it's not a sub so not that important.
I guess I will live with it the way it is right now, I don't have the tools to take the bezel apart and I don't think I would dare to!
Someday I might ask someone to take care of it for me.

 

[KJ2020]

Someday I might ask someone to take care of it for me.

Noob factory fit for comparison. If Tom reinstalled yours that way, I would let him know. I wouldn't be happy with it sitting that low. He might even be willing to correct it for you. I know shipping back and forth is a pain, but for how much you paid it should be re-installed properly.

 

[ROXOLO]

Noob factory fit for comparison. If Tom reinstalled yours that way, I would let him know. I wouldn't be happy with it sitting that low. He might even be willing to correct it for you. I know shipping back and forth is a pain, but for how much you paid it should be re-installed properly.

I'm guessing those are last generation Noob. Mine is a previous 316L - a2824 model. Maybe fit and finish were not as good then - according to reviews from 2016 they were all like mine then. So Tom isn't responsible... but yeah maybe for the price he could have corrected it... :-/

 

[KJ2020]

I'm guessing those are last generation Noob. Mine is a previous 316L - a2824 model. Maybe fit and finish were not as good then - according to reviews from 2016 they were all like mine then. So Tom isn't responsible... but yeah maybe for the price he could have corrected it... :-/

Those are both 316L A2824s, bought new in May 2018. Not trying to badmouth a vendor but regardless of how an insert was previously seated it should be re-fitted to look as close as possible to gen IMO. Yours looks like one layer of double-sided tape, quite obviously not sufficient.

 

[ROXOLO]

You are right... I sent him a message.

 

[KJ2020]

 

[ROXOLO]

I've talked to Tom about my issue; wasn't easy as I hate being that annoying person ^^ but yes spending 300+ euro for modding a fake watch that sells for 350, that's a little bit crazy in itself, and the result should be near perfect IMHO otherwise it's not really worth it.
Tom, while stating that the stock Noob watch has an insert that sits too flush compared to gen, admits my insert sits a tiny bit too low.
I wanna insist here on how nice and easy my whole Tomrep experience has been, and nobody should take this thread as blatant criticism over his work or his person. His modded insert is absolutely gorgeous, his brushing and polishing spot on, and he is a pleasure to deal with. The watch looks great and 1000x better than before.
What we are discussing here is a "flaw" that represents probably 0,1mm depth, but I can be extremely OCD and once I've seen it... I can't unsee it :-/

 

[bc1221]

Thank you guys, makes sense - disappointed to read that a Noob insert holds in place with tape ^^lol I thought it was mainly lower end reps. That makes potential waterproofing of the watch useless... but OK it's not a sub so not that important.
I guess I will live with it the way it is right now, I don't have the tools to take the bezel apart and I don't think I would dare to!
Someday I might ask someone to take care of it for me.

They’re all fitted with double sided tape bro. Even gen subs, GMTs, SDs.. etc (ceramic bezels). The bezel itself is just a plate on top of another plate that rotates and has the grooves for the clock spring. The 5 digit subs GMTs, SDs all had the snap fit inserts. That doesn’t work with ceramic bezels.

Yachtmasters bezels are just a chunk of platinum on a similar set up as the ceramic bezels.

It seems like a cheap workaround but there really isn’t any other way to be able to remove and reinstall a ceramic insert without it aside from friction fitting like they do with daytonas. Then again, Daytona bezels don’t turn.


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[KJ2020]

Gen ceramic inserts do not use tape or glue to remain in place. They are pressure fit. ARF, ZZF, and Noob V10 Subs have adopted the gen system, which includes an additional insert support ring that fits inside the bezel well to lock the insert in place.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/modification-repairs/8689930-ceramic-insert-removal-guide

 

[bc1221]

Gen ceramic inserts do not use tape or glue to remain in place. They are pressure fit. ARF, ZZF, and Noob V10 Subs have adopted the gen system, which includes an additional insert support ring that fits inside the bezel well to lock the insert in place.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/modification-repairs/8689930-ceramic-insert-removal-guide

Interesting. I always thought they were glued/taped on. I would be terrified to remove and install a pressure fit ceramic bezel on a gen. Phew!


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[KJ2020]

Interesting. I always thought they were glued/taped on. I would be terrified to remove and install a pressure fit ceramic bezel on a gen. Phew!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Indeed, even on a rep with gen system it's tricky business.