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Noob v10 VS Gen

mari115

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9/6/18
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Nearer than you think
Btw, if you guys didn't see a member posted a thread about the V10, and apparently the fading bezel numbers problem has been addressed and they won't fade anymore :drinks_cheers:
 

Logixa

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Tucker thanks buddy

TudorGstaad Due note that the angle of which the picture has been taken has a great impact on how it looks like. For example, the rehaut may seem unaligned on the X on the left, but if you turn the watch around and have the X in front of you, you will see that its not that misaligned at all.

hqEvF.jpg


Same applies for the bezel insert. Look how the 3'o clock insert square is straight on the 3 o clock dial marker. But the 7 o clock insert marker is not spot on. This is due to the angle that you are looking. Turn the watch around and it will be on the spot.

It is your own choice to accept or reject a watch on any flaw, how big or small it may be. But note that the rehaut is the least of your worries. I asked you to ask your TD for pictures of the SEL recession and you asked what that means. SEL recession is the BIGGEST giveaway of a rep and can be seen from meters away.

sel-initial-explanation.jpg


If you dont know the SEL recession is, then buddy the submariner rep game is not ment for you. Nobody can even see your rehaut withouth holding it in their hands, but everysone sees your SEL recession. The gen has perfect sel recessions, the noob v10 can have really good sel recessions too but it depends per watch, thats why I said you should focus on that.

lets talk a bit about the rehaut mate. This is done by a machine in the factory. It is 90% the same on every watch done as its done by a machine. The movement, with the dial on it, has quite a lot of play in the case and can move around. We use movements holders to keep in firm in its place. But before the movement holder keeps it in place, the movement+dial can be moved around and turned around in the case to align the rehaut+crystal cyclops+crown. Note that the movement can only move a little bit due to the crown being stuck at 1 position.

So you have 3 things to align with eachother to get the absolute perfect. Trust me, 95% of all gen subs dont even have this 100% :) there will always be some margin. Ask Rolex themself. They will say it is within margin.

I, as a hobby watchmaker, like to make the movements work as good as possible while retaining or improving the minor details like rehaut+cyclops. 100% perfect with each marker in the middle of the ROLEXROLEXROLEX is not feasible and takes more time and most of the time put a lot of pressure on the crown.



For that reason, since this minor detail seems so important to you while the biggest tells of SEL recession and not having a black hole gen crystal is not, I hereby will not be touching your watch for whatsoever. Sorry, I wont accept going into this rabbit hole that is going to give me more stress than positive results.


PS:
Even a Ferrari/Lambo/Bugatti has minor flaws if you pay close enough attention. Dont even start on the shit of BMW/Mercedes/Audio. Tesla is 1 big shithole XD
 
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acmcc

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TudorGstaad - This could be a common problem with all this batch run (or possibly the majority of V10's) its likely the guy that set the machine up did a large run. This is quite a common problem with many Rolex reps. Personally I cant see it on the wrist but if it bothers you - look at others in the batch to see if it is a common problem, this may be the best way forward.
What many members are saying is that all reps have small problems and it's about deciding what level is acceptable to you, this piece looks to be a good one, nice centred date etc.
You could always change to another watch for now if they are all similar and get one latter when this might be rectified, but be aware that they will likely mess something else up that is even more obvious.

On a side note the last time I went through Amsterdam airport they had one in! €5640 duty free, I would have brought it but I already have a few gens and I just brought the gen SD43. If you have the spare cash keep an eye out when you go through airports. I travel a lot and always see something interesting. These are good at holding value as you will know, other nearly purchases over the years have been.... A new Kermit when it was released - in Dublin €3850ish an SD4000 I think it was 2003ish I still have the brochure! with £2350 listed below it! lol
 

acmcc

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Yes Logixa - sel recess is one of the most important things (and gaps) it needs a gen xtal for sure!. Noob generally are flush, that's why I prefer if possible to go with ARF.
 

TudorGstaad

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Guys sorry about all the stuff.

I'm a bit of a perfectionist and I understand the v10 won't be the same like a gen but that's logical for the 1/10th of price. I did so much reading on all the topics that I might took things a bit to seriously and began to see things that don't exist like a rehaut flaw :picard:

Next to that I only owned Tudor reps, and this would be my first sub 116610ln and there is so much to know what beginners like me don't know ..
 

KJ2020

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Here's a watch with a rehaut engraving off enough to reject, especially since it was a $1K full wrapped version. The X at 43 belongs at 44, the R's at 34 and 39 belong at 35 and 40. Plus the letter spacing is uneven.

IMG-7249.jpg


I'm pretty picky but I wouldn't have taken more than about a minute to be OK with yours. The crown is nicely centered, the other letters are all "pretty close" to their correct minute tic marks. That's the criteria you will eventually become OK with if you buy enough reps. So just start now and save yourself a lot of grief, lol. You will never see this on the wrist and you'll quickly forget about it after you put a scratch or two on your watch.
 
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TudorGstaad

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Here's a watch with a rehaut engraving off enough to reject, especially since it was a $1K full wrapped version. The X at 43 belongs at 44, the R's at 34 and 39 belong at 35 and 40. Plus the letter spacing is uneven.

IMG-7249.jpg


I'm pretty picky but I wouldn't have taken more than about a minute to be OK with yours. The crown is nicely centered, the other letters are all "pretty close" to their correct minute tic marks. That's the criteria you will eventually become OK with if you buy enough reps. So just start now and save yourself a lot of grief, lol. You will never see this on the wrist and you'll quickly forget about it after you put a scratch or two on your watch.

Yes exactly I see it now, thanks
 
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Rawbe

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TudorGstaad It’s okay bro, a post like the one you just made shows true character. We are all here to help one another. I’m sure you will learn more and more as you go and maybe even get a name change .. RolexGstaad ;)

Just pray to the horological Gods that the next watch doesn’t have bigger flaws lol, and check the SELs this time!
 
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TudorGstaad

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TudorGstaad It’s okay bro, a post like the one you just made shows true character. We are all here to help one another. I’m sure you will learn more and more as you go and maybe even get a name change .. RolexGstaad ;)

Just pray to the horological Gods that the next watch doesn’t have bigger flaws lol, and check the SELs this time!

Thanks bro, I got a perfect one with good sels. Can't wait till I have it here :)
 

Ulfred55

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5/5/19
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Thanks OP for the detailed review. Would you say that this is the best available case for franken now or maybe the ARF v3?
 

rocko

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5/10/19
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Thank for the review. Received my nodate v10 and the clasp has a gap...need to be replaced to ARF clasp. Are there any TD that could support only the clasp? My TD told me he only order full bracelet.
thanks
 
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museguy

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Logixa thank you for the great review and photos !

Hope you don't mind a few questions.
  1. What are your thoughts on 3135 vs 2836 ?
  2. Is it better to buy a Noob V10 2836-2 and swap to a Swiss ETA 2836-2 or buy a 3135 and swap to a Swiss ETA 2836-2 ? I understand that the case of the 3135 is slightly different than the 2826.
  3. You mention "clasp is shit, replace it with arf" I have tried to order just the ARF clasp and all of the TDs that I have contacted will only sell the whole bracelet, can you recommend a TD for just the clasp ?
Thank you ! Would love to work with you on my replicas, but I live in Mexico City and would worry about the shipping Mexico to Netherlands.

Happy Holidays.
 
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Logixa

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1. 2836 is better. 3135 is a shit replica movement. Inferior metal and prone to problems.
2. Just buy the 2836 version. Don't bother with changing it to Gen eta 2836, just have it serviced. Don't buy the 3135 noob to put a 2836 in. Nobody can tell the difference in crown guards etc. Only rep people even know about that...
3. Arf only sell the full bracelet, it's everywhere like this.

Ulfred55 noob always has been the best to go Franken with.
 
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museguy

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1. 2836 is better. 3135 is a shit replica movement. Inferior metal and prone to problems.
2. Just buy the 2836 version. Don't bother with changing it to Gen eta 2836, just have it serviced. Don't buy the 3135 noob to put a 2836 in. Nobody can tell the difference in crown guards etc. Only rep people even know about that...
3. Arf only sell the full bracelet, it's everywhere like this.

Thank you Logixa !

Very kind of you, happy holidays.
 
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TudorGstaad

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Thank for the review. Received my nodate v10 and the clasp has a gap...need to be replaced to ARF clasp. Are there any TD that could support only the clasp? My TD told me he only order full bracelet.
thanks

do you have a picture of the gap for me?