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Noob Daytona vs ARF Daytona
- Thread starter guru
- Start date
- 21/2/16
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guess what I do with this dial?
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Paint the sub-dials black (as in the gen white gold) and be done with it!
It will be a fantasy model without the gen white gold bezel, but looks awesome!
What a brilliant idea, guru !
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- 30/9/06
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nothing beats a gen bezel. I think the crystal is still too high.
You should only see the facet. Anyhow, watch looks great.
I will upload a picture this afternoon from my.
Does anybody have a good source for a good aftermarket bezel?
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- 30/9/06
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Here are the instructions for the crystal mod on the noob daytonas.
The watch is 12.8 mm thick, gen spec needs to be 12.4.
So you need to reduce the thichness by .4 mm.
Rep bezel is 2.75 mm compare to gen bezel of 2.5 mm.
So you need to shave the bezel down to 2.5 mm.Now the
crystal,sits even higher, so you need to shave the gasket down from 2.5 mm to 2.1 mm. That will lower the crystal so that the facete is even with the bezel. The watch now has 12.4 mm.
When you do this, the hands needs to be pressed down. Don‘t know why noob didn‘t press them down from the beginning. When they are pressed down, they look even more gen. It is an incredible mod, rehaut looks smaller and handstack look much better.
I have not done this on the ceramic because of tooling issues.
These ceramic bezel are easy to break without the right tool to remove and press the bezel.
I am reposting some of the pics again
Original rep bezel
shaved bezel
gen size
side view
compressed handstack
original noob crystal without modding, see the edge below the facete?
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The watch is 12.8 mm thick, gen spec needs to be 12.4.
So you need to reduce the thichness by .4 mm.
Rep bezel is 2.75 mm compare to gen bezel of 2.5 mm.
So you need to shave the bezel down to 2.5 mm.Now the
crystal,sits even higher, so you need to shave the gasket down from 2.5 mm to 2.1 mm. That will lower the crystal so that the facete is even with the bezel. The watch now has 12.4 mm.
When you do this, the hands needs to be pressed down. Don‘t know why noob didn‘t press them down from the beginning. When they are pressed down, they look even more gen. It is an incredible mod, rehaut looks smaller and handstack look much better.
I have not done this on the ceramic because of tooling issues.
These ceramic bezel are easy to break without the right tool to remove and press the bezel.
I am reposting some of the pics again
Original rep bezel
shaved bezel
gen size
side view
compressed handstack
original noob crystal without modding, see the edge below the facete?
Sent from my iPad with Tapatalk
"These ceramic bezel are easy to break without the right tool to remove and press the bezel."
:indeed:
:indeed:
- 12/3/18
- 34,664
- 66,756
- 113
- 12/3/18
- 34,664
- 66,756
- 113
Here are the instructions for the crystal mod on the noob daytonas.
The watch is 12.8 mm thick, gen spec needs to be 12.4.
So you need to reduce the thichness by .4 mm.
Rep bezel is 2.75 mm compare to gen bezel of 2.5 mm.
So you need to shave the bezel down to 2.5 mm.Now the
crystal,sits even higher, so you need to shave the gasket down from 2.5 mm to 2.1 mm. That will lower the crystal so that the facete is even with the bezel. The watch now has 12.4 mm.
When you do this, the hands needs to be pressed down. Don‘t know why noob didn‘t press them down from the beginning. When they are pressed down, they look even more gen. It is an incredible mod, rehaut looks smaller and handstack look much better.
I have not done this on the ceramic because of tooling issues.
These ceramic bezel are easy to break without the right tool to remove and press the bezel.
I am reposting some of the pics again
Sent from my iPad with Tapatalk
Thanks for reposting pics - really nice improvement!
Just had the back off as the rotor was noisy and free spinning a little too much. Caseback threads were gritty and I struggled to unscrew but got there in the end. This movement is a thing of beauty! Checked all the screws and dropped a minute drop on Mobeus on the rotor bearings and now it winds perfectly. Greased the seals and cleaned the back much happier now!
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Crystal is perfect actually. Have a look at a gen and you will always see the base of the gasket. When my gen returns from service I will compare!
I used a 2.30mm gasket and have just measured my Noob now the caseback is screwed tight and it reads 12.42 which near enough for me! I do think the case is a fraction thicker than gen to be honest and that may now be the difference.
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- 30/9/06
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I have tried to mark the crystal edge which should be below of the bezel. It is just 0.2 mm so just forget it. But gen crystal doesn‘t have it. From 10 inches/ cm you do not see it. I haven‘t done this on my ceramics but posted it because 90 % of you guys use a microscope to look for flaws.
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Wonder if any of you gurus have a side to side comparison of an art 116500 and noob 4130v2 116500?
- 30/9/06
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guru, would you agree that this modification is mostly cosmetic? I did not notice much of a difference in wearing comfort, as dramatic as one might experience in thinning a caseback. This is because we are just making one element of the watch a little lower to make the geometry of the crystal in relation to the tachymeter a bit better. There is not much lowering of the center of gravity.
Here a few photos of a ceramic bezel model with the same modification, more or less:
If you thin the ceramic bezel (not really necessary), you will remove the crown hallmark underneath (yes, Noob even reproduced that):
You can of course use the replica crystal gasket. To thin it, you can work it across a 240 grain piece of paper with a crystal installed on it. Make sure to get it equal width on all sides. You start with 2.5mm gasket, but thinning further than 2.3/2.25mm is not really necessary unless you machine down the rehaut and are ready to lower the handstack. It also pays off to smooth the outer portions of the gasket to allow the ceramic tachymeter to slip over it without too much force, and to inspect the gasket for any remaining splinters at bottom to be removed.
I did not notice the need for lowering the handstack, as the chrono second hand was below the top of the unmodified rehaut. The sides of these replica Daytona hands are pretty poorly finished, BTW:
Here you see the thinned gasket slightly elevated above the mid-case. No further thinning is necessary. The gasket will of course compress further towards the mid-case when the tachymeter is pressed over it, but unless one machines the rehaut thinner, there is a limit to how much one can really thin the overall width of the watch with this modification.
Final positioning. I left a little vertical portion of the crystal peak out over the tachymeter. Gasket is hidden from outside view. Final thickness is something like 12.52mm. The watch initially measured 12.86mm.
Here a few photos of a ceramic bezel model with the same modification, more or less:
If you thin the ceramic bezel (not really necessary), you will remove the crown hallmark underneath (yes, Noob even reproduced that):
You can of course use the replica crystal gasket. To thin it, you can work it across a 240 grain piece of paper with a crystal installed on it. Make sure to get it equal width on all sides. You start with 2.5mm gasket, but thinning further than 2.3/2.25mm is not really necessary unless you machine down the rehaut and are ready to lower the handstack. It also pays off to smooth the outer portions of the gasket to allow the ceramic tachymeter to slip over it without too much force, and to inspect the gasket for any remaining splinters at bottom to be removed.
I did not notice the need for lowering the handstack, as the chrono second hand was below the top of the unmodified rehaut. The sides of these replica Daytona hands are pretty poorly finished, BTW:
Here you see the thinned gasket slightly elevated above the mid-case. No further thinning is necessary. The gasket will of course compress further towards the mid-case when the tachymeter is pressed over it, but unless one machines the rehaut thinner, there is a limit to how much one can really thin the overall width of the watch with this modification.
Final positioning. I left a little vertical portion of the crystal peak out over the tachymeter. Gasket is hidden from outside view. Final thickness is something like 12.52mm. The watch initially measured 12.86mm.
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- 21/2/16
- 1,078
- 276
- 83
I find the opposite, and it's not even close in my view. But, aesthetics are a personal thing.
What I see at a glance:
ARF ceramic bezel:
- tics are a bit too thick
Noob ceramic bezel:
- tics and arc much too thin
- text and numbers font is much too thin
- all markings / printing is too far inward (except the UNITS PER HOUR perhaps)
- "I" in UNITS doesn't line up with the "H" in HOUR (that one drives me crazy)
I really WANT to like the Noob 116500, because I would love that movement, but the dial and bezel are not appealing to me.
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