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NoctiLumina vs Superluminova you decide! ;)
- Thread starter Thehitman
- Start date
rfireteanu
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- 19/12/12
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rfireteanu
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It's good to see people getting into this again. It's a scientific art! Just doing a small search for GloInc here.. https://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/search.php?searchid=3265102&pp= you will see how many people have entered the venture and left. 
Including me. lol https://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/49425-R2-s-making-of-a-PO-Pearl?highlight=GlowInc
The pigment sizes are "the" factor when comparing the same color lume and you have to get the camera right to really show it off. I like what I see here hitman, Kudos to you.
Including me. lol https://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/49425-R2-s-making-of-a-PO-Pearl?highlight=GlowIncThe pigment sizes are "the" factor when comparing the same color lume and you have to get the camera right to really show it off. I like what I see here hitman, Kudos to you.
GF Nocti is not an exact match for C3, but very close to Seiko's Lumibright (Lumibrite? LOL). Here's a Seiko SNZH, with G15 behind the hardlex bezel, and stock Lumibright on the hands and dial:
BF Nocti is virtually exactly like BGW9 (which seems to be $80/gram?!??). I'll post a pic later of a Mako relumed with BF17, with a GEN Omega hour hand with BGW9. They are virtually *identical* in color, emission, and duration.
For now, here's a relumed Raffles dial in Nocti (90/10 BF/GF) next to a Gen 9300 PO Chrono with SL (BGW9 on dial, hour, sec; C3 on minute and pip). The relume is brighter, just as long:
(all shots by cheap phone, no time exposures or processing)
FWIW, the SL binder is a little easier for me to work with than the Nocti Binder 3 (which is also very good!). I'm very new to DIY luming, and defer to the more experienced, but hopefully this is helpful.unk:
BF Nocti is virtually exactly like BGW9 (which seems to be $80/gram?!??). I'll post a pic later of a Mako relumed with BF17, with a GEN Omega hour hand with BGW9. They are virtually *identical* in color, emission, and duration.
For now, here's a relumed Raffles dial in Nocti (90/10 BF/GF) next to a Gen 9300 PO Chrono with SL (BGW9 on dial, hour, sec; C3 on minute and pip). The relume is brighter, just as long:
(all shots by cheap phone, no time exposures or processing)
FWIW, the SL binder is a little easier for me to work with than the Nocti Binder 3 (which is also very good!). I'm very new to DIY luming, and defer to the more experienced, but hopefully this is helpful.
unk:The B17 is an exact match to Rolex's recipe. I've relumed GMT IIc hands to match a Gen dial and also this DSSD dial/hands to match the Gen bezel.
MakoII, BF17 Nocti on dial, min, sec; SL BGW9 on stock Omega hour hand:
Some great lume jobs and info in this thread!! Rocketeer's posts on luming are really, really good! :thumbup:
...Very interesting that BF17 matches both Rolex and Omega so closely...:laugh:
Edit: Particle size makes a huge difference! Left PO homage in regular grain size Nocti green (GF), right in ultra-fine-grain Nocti green (GuF)... stripped and re-did that one!).
Some great lume jobs and info in this thread!! Rocketeer's posts on luming are really, really good! :thumbup:
...Very interesting that BF17 matches both Rolex and Omega so closely...:laugh:
Edit: Particle size makes a huge difference! Left PO homage in regular grain size Nocti green (GF), right in ultra-fine-grain Nocti green (GuF)... stripped and re-did that one!).
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Now this thread is going somewhere with proof and pictures! The particle size is key the bigger the better but it's not that simple. UF pigment is easier to apply and manipulate. But the F just blows it out of the water in brightness and duration... So whoever said SL is the best is not necessarily correct... Lume is more than just mixing some shit up and putting it on shit.. That's all technical talk by the way. Haha I have given up on my C3 C1 tests because I already know which I like better and it certainly doesn't cost $45 a gram. just from my preliminary tests the G15F is damn good! I might even go out on a limb and say it's the best... But that is my opinion. Whoever told me about NL must really know their stuff... Thank you Strodda. Now I have a gram of C3 and a gram of C1 that I won't be using...
I have given up on my C3 C1 tests because I already know which I like better and it certainly doesn't cost $45 a gram. just from my preliminary tests the G15F is damn good! I might even go out on a limb and say it's the best... But that is my opinion. Whoever told me about NL must really know their stuff... Thank you Strodda. Now I have a gram of C3 and a gram of C1 that I won't be using...
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Ok now we have gone to comparing SL to stock rep lume... Lol this is a stock lume Pam 286j it's a good lumer for a rep.
C3 left 286j right
286j is the left watch in my sig at full blast of course. These pics are of the lume after its initial blast.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
C3 left 286j right
286j is the left watch in my sig at full blast of course. These pics are of the lume after its initial blast.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great post. Thanks for all the effort to do this and to those with greater knowledge than I adding it.
It's fun to mix pigments. Green nocti is brightest but blue appears more white in daylight.
Cloudy daylight doesn't show the color difference too well, Orient 100% BF lume looks pure white in daylight, 90/10 BF/GF milsub looks very close to white, snowflake (80/20 BF/GF) looks a bit greenish.
Emission gets stronger the more green you add:
Hope this helps a few fellow lume junkies! :laugh:
Cloudy daylight doesn't show the color difference too well, Orient 100% BF lume looks pure white in daylight, 90/10 BF/GF milsub looks very close to white, snowflake (80/20 BF/GF) looks a bit greenish.
Emission gets stronger the more green you add:
Hope this helps a few fellow lume junkies! :laugh:
That might be because the modern gen color of a Panerai is not straight c3. It's a mixutre with little blue in it. Which is why that comparison you're referring to, shows the relume being too green.
I'll need to find the pics, but I have a few shots comparing a relume I did next to a gen 270 dial.
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But do rep manufacturers really mix them or only gen? I was trying to show the brightness of c3 vs stock rep lume not really the color.
Hey hitman, I've never done lumes myself but I'm very interested and is curious where do you buy these lume paints?