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New Noob daytona 904L V2
- Thread starter Deathminder
- Start date
- 13/5/16
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I know a lot of you have removed or replaced the ceramic bezel on the Noob Daytona. I just need to realign mine. Seems I got a newer stock so I believe the 60 & 120 are in a straight line, but they are both a fraction off proper 12 & 6 alignment.
Is removing the movement and popping the crystal & bezel from the inside the only/best way? I've heard trying to pry it with a bezel knife can cause the crystal to come with it. I've also read it requires a crystal press to properly seat it back on. Elucidation is always greatly appreciated.
Is removing the movement and popping the crystal & bezel from the inside the only/best way? I've heard trying to pry it with a bezel knife can cause the crystal to come with it. I've also read it requires a crystal press to properly seat it back on. Elucidation is always greatly appreciated.
jakekrait
Active Member
- 19/1/17
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Not a typo. It turns out it was due to the included watch boxes (three watches + three boxes. I never used to buy boxes but the new Rolex box version looks kind ok to my eyes).
Tschacko
Active Member
- 1/8/18
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Yes, if you are gentle you can easily do it even with a case back knife. The bezel holds the crystal in place so for sure it is loose. But you don't need a crystal press to put it on. The press is rather needed to press the bezel back in place. A cheap 20$ press does the job if you are careful.
- 24/3/17
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i intend to swap mine because i like the thickness of the numbers better and also no sheriff R's
Yes, and it required a lot of case work. Not worth the hassle
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That seems pretty reasonable when you consider my 16622 cost close on what a second hand one would now and has a shitty sh3135 in it
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- 30/7/16
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That seems pretty reasonable when you consider my 16622 cost close on what a second hand one would now and has a shitty sh3135 in it
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Sure enough. I imagine it would be worth it for sure.
Hi thanks for the replyThe watch is not underwound - please do not excessively wind the watch manually - If you go beyond 30 half rotations you run the risk of jamming the movement - I actually did it - it did not appear to damage the movement - but after that manual wind did not have a silky smooth operation like it did before - to start a dead watch manual wind 10-15 half turns and give it a little shake. If you ever start feeling the crown getting “tight” don’t wind any further - just shake set the time and wear.
10 seconds per hour is way way off. Out of the box the movement should be within 10-15 seconds per day. An amplitude of 270-310 is fine - 300 is about perfect. Beat error below 0.5 is acceptable - most out of the box are 0.0 - 0.2.
Your watch needs to be regulated - easily done by yourself with a little patience. A 29.5mm lug to remove the back case and a timegrapher (order from Otto Frei in Oakland) are all you really need. To regulate the movement (ie make it run faster or slower) you need to adjust to regulator arm - which is the top arm of the scissor like set of arms at the 9 o’clock position in the pic below. Start by putting it on a timegrapher to see wear you are. If you’re gaining 10 seconds per hour you’ll see a heinously large number like 500 sec per day. Rotate the lever clockwise a millimeter at time until you get with it 30-40 seconds per day. You’ll see that the lever is incredibly sensitive - if you narrow it to 30 sec fast and then push another 1mm you can easily overshoot to 30s/d slow. Try to as best you can to get writhin 10-15 sec. Then put the case back back on hand tight and wear for 10-15 min to let it settle in - then out on time grapher - keep repeating this process until you get it to +3-6 sec - you’ll find that it’s so sensitive you’ll almost never be able to “put it there” - you’ll have to hit that number through luck and trial and error. Once you get it there put the case back on again and check the time over the next few hours - if after 6 hours you’re still wishing a couple of seconds - just leave it alone - unless you’re really OCD like me and you keep working it until you’re within 3 s/d. It’s better to be a little fast than slow because it makes setting exact time super easy - if after 3 days your 15 sec fast - simply hack the second hand for 15 seconds.
Thats really it in a nut shell.
BTW - this pic is from one of my watches - google 4130 and compare it to gen. They’ve done a good job but the finish isn’t as good as gen - you’ll also see that the regulating and beat error arms (the scissor levers) are different on the gen and a fairly obvious instant giveaway. Never the less - this is a fantastic vertical clutch chrono movement!
It is only running slow when the chronograph is on, without it is quite accurate, within +-10s a day
Does it still need to be regulated?
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- 30/7/16
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Maybe it would benefit from a full service if it’s running slow when the chronograph is running. I was told by a rep watchsmith that those rep movements are often dirty and under oiled when sold from China. A proper service should get it running smoother and will extend it’s lifetime.
Can anyone recommend a watchmaker who will work on these in the UK? - I have parts arriving and would like them fitted - I have messaged Ado but im not getting any response - Please PM me any recommendations you may have!
Thanks
Adrian is on holiday
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kopite81
Active Member
- 2/12/18
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Desertwanderer
Getting To Know The Place
- 13/2/19
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M Scott
Renowned Member
- 22/9/18
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The newly revised Black dial is looking really good...
kopite81
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