My thoughts on: the IWC Mark XVIII by MKS Factory, Miyota 9015

[optical]

After one of these also, I would take a Miyota over any asian movement, they are made in Japan by Citizen under good conditions and standards (unlike asian clones, who knows..). They have been the most reliable movements I have had in my reps by a LONG shot. Being a non moder, and someone that just wants a watch with minimal mechanical fuss and solid consistency, they are my movement of choice.

 

[asiparks1]

sandpaper ? Dear god !
Seriously, go nuts & blow the $12 for these fiberglass pens- easier to use and harder to F up.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fibergla...erglass+pen,aps,265&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-da-p_3_14

I bought a set of 3 to replace a Bergeon, they work as well...

For sharp edges :

if $16 is too steep for one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Bergeon-Flex...&qid=1609818345&sprefix=berge,aps,255&sr=8-56

then go $8 for a lifetime of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Buffer-Buffe...=1609818239&sprefix=nail+buff,aps,246&sr=8-18

 

[miscusi]

thanks for the suggestions of various brush, nail care products, but I am already good on using sandpaper... like, sandpaper is what I use, and used for a long time so the results are stunning.

 

[asiparks1]

great for you, posted more to help people who might want sensible and easy to use, hard to f'up alternatives, especially for brushing in not straight lines - ie around bezels, circular brushed cases and casebacks

 

[miscusi]

sensible and easy to use, hard to f'up alternatives, especially for brushing in not straight lines - ie around bezels, circular brushed cases and casebacks

You do have a good point.. I been using sandpaper because they come in labeled textures and etc.. I have to fold them, tape them, roll them into tubes and etc.. so yeah it is more work than it have to be to simply polish up something.. Would you be able to maybe link a video or web page of the techniques in using those items, and the resulting finishes?

I myself for example, to remove a light scratch on a polished surface (like side of link) would be taping sandpaper to a desired shaped surface and using 1000 grit, 2000 grit, 3000 grit, 3000 grit wet-sand, then jeweler's green rouge...

 

[SgtFigRed]

This watch was the reason I started looking at Reps and why I joined this forum in particular!

The sound of the Myota troubles me though so I'm inclined for the V7F (with the a2892 movement). On the other hand that blue tint in the AR coating (MKS) makes it closer to the gen.

Tough choice

 

[peterpl]

This watch was the reason I started looking at Reps and why I joined this forum in particular!
The sound of the Myota troubles me though so I'm inclined for the V7F (with the a2892 movement). On the other hand that blue tint in the AR coating (MKS) makes it closer to the gen.
Tough choice

There is no way I'd pay double for the V7F. The MKS is pretty much a perfect watch. I'll repeat it for you again the Miyota is a proper Japanese auto movement that is stable as anything it will last you > 5 years without even touching it and when it does get broke just replace the movement.

And again if the rotor noise bothers you THAT much its literally a 15min fix with the proper oils. Or pay a watch smith $50 and he will get rid of the noise. You'd be a fool to buy the V7F imho.

 

[Mark_I]

There is no way I'd pay double for the V7F. The MKS is pretty much a perfect watch. I'll repeat it for you again the Miyota is a proper Japanese auto movement that is stable as anything it will last you > 5 years without even touching it and when it does get broke just replace the movement.

And again if the rotor noise bothers you THAT much its literally a 15min fix with the proper oils. Or pay a watch smith $50 and he will get rid of the noise. You'd be a fool to buy the V7F imho.

What are the flaws of the MKS black dial?

 

[NetworkMick]

There is no way I'd pay double for the V7F. The MKS is pretty much a perfect watch. I'll repeat it for you again the Miyota is a proper Japanese auto movement that is stable as anything it will last you > 5 years without even touching it and when it does get broke just replace the movement.

Thanks for your comments on the MKS. I'm new to the rep community and the IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII will be my second purchase. And after reading all the comments here, I'm certain that the Miyota version will be perfect. Love this community and thanks.

 

[miscusi]

nd after reading all the comments here, I'm certain that the Miyota version will be perfect.

yah, the 9015 is considered good stuff: https://youtu.be/V_jwDLhT9hQ?t=284

 

[hosanci]

Thanks everyone - this has been a really helpful thread. I am about to buy a Mark XVIII, but I can't figure out what the difference is between the original version and version 2. It looks like both are from MKS, but version 2 is $10 less! What am I missing?

 

[miscusi]

Thanks everyone - this has been a really helpful thread. I am about to buy a Mark XVIII, but I can't figure out what the difference is between the original version and version 2. It looks like both are from MKS, but version 2 is $10 less! What am I missing?

get the V2

 

[hosanci]

Thanks everyone - this has been a really helpful thread. I am about to buy a Mark XVIII, but I can't figure out what the difference is between the original version and version 2. It looks like both are from MKS, but version 2 is $10 less! What am I missing?

Sounds like the way to go. Do you know what the differences are between the two versions?

 

[mpx]

Just got two in, a black one on bracelet and a blue one on the leather strap for my brother. Really a nice rep, I needed a bit to figure out how to adjust the bracelet, but once I got that it was really easy. And both are really silent, nothing compared to the other reps with Miyota-Movements I had before.
The factory just screwed up and they mounted the LPP-Bracelet on my black one, but so far I can live with the brushed parts on the bracelet. But maybe one day I will take the bracelet apart and brush the links.

 

[miscusi]

I will take the bracelet apart and brush the links.

i use masking tape..

 

[mpx]

I took it completely apart and brushed the polished parts. The whole process took me a good hour and I'm really happy with the result. I thought about buying a fibre pen as linked in the previous page, but I had scotch-brite lying around anyway and wanted to give it a try. I can't imagine it being any easier with the pen, especially as you can disassemble this bracelet, it might be different on others.

 

[thenut]

Nice!
i am looking Forward for QC for this Model, ordered Last week.

 

[merowinger]

I also brushed the polished parts.

Looks much better now imo

 

[peterpl]

I took it completely apart and brushed the polished parts. The whole process took me a good hour and I'm really happy with the result. I thought about buying a fibre pen as linked in the previous page, but I had scotch-brite lying around anyway and wanted to give it a try. I can't imagine it being any easier with the pen, especially as you can disassemble this bracelet, it might be different on others.

Thats a good job mate. Its much much easier to brush the bracelet with the scotch bright. Dont use the pen - its difficult to get uniform lines. The scotch bright does wonders.

 

[museguy]

Thats a good job mate. Its much much easier to brush the bracelet with the scotch bright. Dont use the pen - its difficult to get uniform lines. The scotch bright does wonders.

Dear peterpl and mpx

Thank you for the post !

I have a V7 black dial Mark XVIII on order and plan to brush the bracelet and the bezel.

​​​​​​​Can you please offer guidance on how to use the scotch bright ? Can I also use the scotch bright on the bezel without removing the crystal ? Thank you !

Cheers