What other steps should be taken if leaking from crystal? After you have tried to reseat the crystal?
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What other steps should be taken if leaking from crystal? After you have tried to reseat the crystal?
Thanks,
Do I have to take the crystal fully out and re insert it or can I just press it a tad more while still installed?
With a ceramic sub, carefully. If the crystal gasket is leaking, the first step is to try and reseat it. The leak could be due to the crystal not being pressed in correctly, or due to issues with machining. Because of the ceramic insert, this is a task you might want to defer to a watchsmith for.
As far as the soapy bubbles, this is not recommended in a dry pressure test and can damage the equipment. Also, by adding soapy bubbles, that could potentially introduce moisture in the case. A dry pressure test only looks at the deflection of the crystal by first pressurizing and then depressurizing the vessel. A positive deflection of the crystal is normal. The concern is when a vacuum is introduced if the deflection of the crystal swings to negative (IE the pressure inside the case drops below baseline at 1 ATM), then you have a definite leak. Only a wet pressure test will allow you to pinpoint the source(s) of the leak. if you have a confirmed leaking piece, it would be advisable to remove the movement. If you are unsure, you can test with the movement in place, just be attentive and if you see a steady stream of bubbles, pull it out of the water before the pressure inside equalizes. Water will not enter until after pressure equalizes. Bear in mind that some air might be trapped under the bezel, so don't panic if you see a couple of large bubbles develop. A stream of small bubbles are what you are looking for. I posted a couple of random pictures I've taken of pressure tests for your reference.
My 088, you will notice one bubble forming from under the bezel....
LMPO, if you look closely, you will see one bubble starting to form from under the bezel by the crown.
WM9 yachtmaster
My 243. This is the most pronounced case of bubbles from under the bezel I've encountered. I tested it a second time after this and it passed without any additional bubbles, so they were all from under the bezel...
I've just bought a pressure tester like this on ebay (waiting for it to arrive) My Sub V9 has been tested OK at 3Atm, I would like to test it further may be upto 6atm, i'm nervous however of blowing of the crystal. I'm assuming the best way is to test at small increments, and i'm also assuming that you just look for bubbles at each step and stop if and when you see any bubbles am I on the right track??
My V9 failed at 5 MPs on the same tester...I started right at 5 MPs as you need to release air for bubble to leak out. With lower pressure you barely have time, remember when You have no more pressure it’s too late and the water could leak into your watch. Best bet is to remove your movement to test or start high like I did. I modded the crystal too. You can see the leak pretty clear.
5MP's is that the same as 5bar &5atm? so if my watch passed at 3Bar do I not just start upwards from there? I don't think I want to go straight to 6 incase the crystal blows, am I making any sense?
I've just bought a pressure tester like this on ebay (waiting for it to arrive) My Sub V9 has been tested OK at 3Atm, I would like to test it further may be upto 6atm, i'm nervous however of blowing of the crystal. I'm assuming the best way is to test at small increments, and i'm also assuming that you just look for bubbles at each step and stop if and when you see any bubbles am I on the right track??
I re-pressed the crystal of my 116622 noob and 116610 ( after taking off the bezel ) and they both did 85 m WR perfectly. I didn’t test higher because I didn’t have time.
( I didn’t remove the crystal and reseat it , just took the insert off and gave the crystal some gentle presses. ).
Incredible how both went from not being able to pass 30 m test to 85 ( and more)
That's awesome..are your crystals stock or are they gen with gen gaskets?
All stock from rep factory.
All I did when the watches arrived was take out movement, use silicon on caseback gasket and the crown's internal one ( not the one on the tube)
Then remove the bezel+insert from both watches, use the crystal press to lightly press the crystal whilst still installed.
The first time, without pressing the crystal, they didn't pass 30m.
After pressing the crystal, they passed 85m and I'm sure they would have passed even more.
It's incredible as using the crystal press I used very very very little force, and that made a lot of difference in terms of WR.
On the other hand, I had a BP day date 40 that when it arrived, I just greased the caseback gasket and it did 100m ( as much as the gen is certified to ).
In that case, I didn't test further as I didn't have the equipment to do more than 100m.
So this underlines the importance of having reps WR tested. A noob submariner ( gen is 300m WR) didn't pass 30m, whilst a day date ( gen 100m ) did the same as the gen
Yes, I agree with you. You must get your watch tested. The factories can say anything to you but no need to go into the pool to find it goes boom as the cost goes up. It's pretty cool to hear that from you. I've swapped out my crystals therefore compromising the water resistance. I had just received my two new gaskets and uv crystal glue, just in case. I will try to fix my leak this weekend if I get a chance. Appreciate your feedback.
what watches are you talking about?
Any reps bought from a TD.
Sorry I didn't explain myself too well. I was asking what watches are you going to try to fix this weekend