Modded ZF 15500 Blue Dial Review

[zerodreamy]

If this thread is for any reason inappropriate, please let me know. I thought it would be nice to share my experience with a watch and modder.

In the middle of last year I had my first foray into replica watches. I decided to go for a Royal Oak, with ZF's 15500 being the preferred unmodded option as their dials were a bit more intricate at the time. I had no intention of modding a fake watch at the time.

Over time its slight visual issues definitely irked me, but the most concerning part was the fact that the movement didn't seem like it was put together with a lot of care or attention to cleanliness...A problem waiting to happen, I worried.

So naturally I turned to the person on this forum that contributes more than his fair share - completely free - and receives endless kudos for his modification work. He was more than gracious and willing to help me.

Below is a breakdown of said work and not-so-scrupulous observations.
Overall my opinion is clear: We are lucky to have Legend, his services and frankly inexpensive price-points. With that said, I have kept exact prices unmentioned.

If you've ever visited less-than-savoury watch repair shops you'll immediately understand what a blessing people like this are, especially when we are talking about watches that look like other watches and cannot be serviced just anywhere.

1. Complete Movement Overhaul
The movement had originally come pretty nasty looking, and while it was running fine enough before servicing, it made me very uneasy seeing dirt/grime on the plates - what else was hiding in there? I shudder just thinking about it.

Pros

• The price here seems very competitive relative to other offerings of other modders I have looked into, which definitely counts for something.
• Legend was able to regulate it to a very acceptable range, which he showed me once completed.
• The movement came back noticeably cleaner. The movement was clearly not among ZF's finest, just the plates were smudged/dirty when first received. I don't want to imagine what the internals were like.

Cons

• Previously the date reset would happen between 11:53 and 11:54. Now it seems to consistently happen at 11:47.

2. Bracelet/Case edge beveling + polishing
Definitely one of my bigger problems with the base, not to mention the brushing which I didn't bother Legend to improve despite being clearly told the base brushing wasn't accurate.

Pros

• Both the case and bracelet came back smoother. The latter less so, it is still "sharp" as far as watches go, but not quite a shiv like it was before. Is this intended? I am unsure.
• On the other hand the bracelet is definitely a huge improvement in both the feel and the fluidity of its movement off-wrist. No issues there from me.

Cons

• The case featured some very minute scratches/dings in a few areas on one side, though nothing egregious or unlikely for me to create while wearing later anyway. For some this kind of thing may be an issue, and perhaps why both polishing and brushing are recommended together. For me, only worth mentioning to be thorough.

3. Polish, align, level bezel screws (including machining longer screws)
This, along with some other things, made me think perhaps this particular watch was assembled by ZF in the last minutes of a Friday night shift, or a very early Monday morning. Legend let me know that this would be an additional cost because some of the screws needed to be machined.

Originally top four screws were noticeably long/protruding out of the bezel.. When considering what this aims to emulate, the acceptable average length seems to be either slightly below bezel surface or perhaps just flush with it. Perhaps this isn't universally true, so clarity would be nice here.

This problem is mostly of my own making, it was hard to tell during QC and it seems like ZF is more guilty of this than APS?

Pros

• The bezel screws came back better aligned.
• Polishing is apparent and appreciated. The levelling, while imperfect, is a marked improvement from before.

Cons

All the problematic screws heads still stick out, just to a lesser degree.

Rather than being slightly rounded at the head these (and presumably all) screw heads are now completely straight-edged. I don't know how difficult it is to make these screws flush or make them sink into the case, so I have no comment.

• All the problematic screws heads still stick out, just to a lesser degree.
• The screw closest to 4 came back with a scratch/scrape that extended onto the bezel. In some lights this scratch is visible, in others not at all. Again, maybe one reason why rebrushing may be wise to tack on to a project like this.

Perhaps I can simply get all of these screws replaced entirely? Feel free to let me know, guys.

4. Procure SW Dial
This was a big one for me, and I made sure to annoy Legend with that fact. I didn't really like the stock ZF blue dial in the end. He recommended SW over DP offering (when they were still around) and I understand why. I was promised that he would find an excellent SW dial since I am told they can often enough come with slightly askew text.

Pros
Legend's keen eyes. From my perspective the above quality promise was met, and I am not sure how many SW Dials he rejected on my behalf.
The dial itself seems great, and a decent enough emulation of some of the very early 15500 blue gulloiche dials. Reference pictures are few and far between, but from what I can tell the original has a slightly deeper/richer black and blue to it, on top of true guilloche specific to their brand. Overall, this early genuine dial too leans towards a darker blue/almost black than later genuine iterations that most if not all factory/third parties aim to emulate now.
As far as accuracy goes, it does a fine job and about as good as one can expect from a mimic in this colour. Perhaps expectations will be exceeded by factories down the line.

Cons
Isn't 1:1 with the genuine product, obviously. Accuracy is subjective. I will include photos below to compare.
For those that are looking for later iterations of the dial that are definitely much "bluer" or lighter, this will not please.

5. Swap and align SW Dial
Not going to bother looking at alignment under a microscope, at the very least to my naked eye it seems "perfect" enough. Maybe someone here has better eyes than I do.

6. Overall "Customer Service" & Treatment - Priceless
This is an area where I've seen Legend in particular get a lot of flak, despite his otherwise gleaming reputation.

I definitely understand that the way his work-related messages can be interpreted/read into can rub people the wrong way but I find any negativity attributed to his character or his service/care is patently false. In my experience he was very knowledgeable, straight-forward, reliable and patient.

That last one is particularly important because I have a tendency to ask him questions via WhatsApp that are probably better directed to the forums instead.. Yet he continues to humour me and those incessant questions. Thank you, A.

Finally, turnaround time. I was expecting it to take much longer than it did, and I didn't bother to message Legend about progress at all. He definitely has a lot on his plate, so why bother him and just let him work, right?

He finished his work within a month of receiving the watch. I understand that relative to other projects this may have been simple, but that is an excellent timeframe to me. Really 10/10.

Thank you again to Legend for all the support, knowledge, and of course services provided here. As well as this forum as whole for being a great source of knowledge and help in this interesting hobby.

Some photos of what I assume to be genuine reference photos of an earlier blue dial along with two of my own of the modded rep. If anything stated here is incorrect, please feel free to mention/correct me. I'm far from an expert, just enjoying this niche as best as I can.

 

[zerodreamy]

Unfortunately clicking a combination of control and enter (I believe?) meant this got posted before I could finish fully editing/formatting. Regardless, I hope this is post is of some service to someone out there. Thanks again RWI & Legend.

 

[Endez]

I have an APSF 15500 modded by the man, and I can only recommend..! The aesthetic of the watch (except the dial that I didn’t change) is perfect!

Good to see a SW dial 15500 as I just bought one and will install it soon. As you mention, it is really dark, almost black. But for me, even if the color is incorrect it feels more AP like. The small changes of color on sunlight.

For the forum members, if you have the chance (and the money) to have a Legend modded AP, don’t hesitate, he knows exactly what he is doing. BTW I am thinking to ask him for a 15510

 

[trongducmen]

Could you take picture of old dial side by side with sw? I’m not sure if ZF dial has strong sunburst

 

[zerodreamy]

Could you take picture of old dial side by side with sw? I’m not sure if ZF dial has strong sunburst

I absolutely can do this for you sir. I will quote you again tomorrow with a photo of both under direct sunlight (weather permitting). I think it would do more justice than any of my own subjective views or descriptions.

Hello again everyone,

An update on this interesting journey and an extension to the above review. Thank you for reading, I hope the sharing of these experiences proves useful for those reading now or in the future.

After posting this review Legend reached out to me. In my review there were a few "cons" floating amidst a genuine sea of "pros".

Legend made it clear that when he undertakes a project he wants to make sure the end result is to the person's liking. This includes rectifying relatively minor gripes to ensure maximum satisfaction.

So, in part, he reached out to learn more and address each of these issues in a way that only a man of integrity and passion would: offering to re-examine and provide his services in the areas outlined earlier in this review completely free of charge. Including shipping back to me, at his own cost.

I believe that this kind of response is a testament to one's character as well as further proof that this gentleman is worth every ounce of respect they have earned in this community as well as anyone's consideration for modifications of this nature (or those more advanced than this).

It would be remiss of me if I did not share these details and my own experience when reviewing a service and its outcomes, so at the very least let this single thread reiterate something that has become perfectly obvious to many by now: Legend aims to go above and beyond always.

In fact he did also offer services I had not initially paid for at all (re-brushing) as further gratuity, but we did agreed that since I never intended to baby this toy, it would be impractical to go these lengths.

This experience has only continued to be a pleasure, interactions with Legend have been nothing short of brilliant.

If you did read my review above, the minute "cons" were the following:

1. Date turnover post-servicing being farther out from midnight than expected
2. Case felt a little sharp to the touch, and featured minor hairline scratches on one side.
3. Problem bezel screws, while noticeably improved, still stuck out to a noticeable degree.

I have received the watch back, of course in record time, and have been able to observe it closely.

Regarding Point 1
The watch's date now turns over at 11:57PM. From my observation this is between ~11:57:10 and 11:57:32. I imagine as my sample size grows so too does the variance. I understand that some people are perfectionists and want their watches to turn over exactly at 12 but this is well within expected tolerances, to my understanding, and I am not so concerned with a minute here or there. Thank you Legend.

Regarding Point 2
We settled that the re-brushing of the watch was a frivolous modification considering the context in which it is going to be used. To be honest, it wouldn't sit quite right with me to receive a service I have not previously paid for at all, even though this entire scenario is a magnanimous gesture itself... This was left untouched and, again, a non-issue for me.

The case's edges that meet the bracelet (this was tricky for me to properly explain, not knowing the correct terimology) was, according to Legend, not very much sharper than one might expect from a genuine piece. Despite this, he did agree to soften it. I think now it does feel just a touch softer, making my fingers less liable to a less-than-savoury rub against it every now and again. Thank you Legend.

Regarding Point 3
We agreed to have all of the screws re-examined and redone, the thought being that if you're re-doing 4, removing the other 4 and reviewing them too is not an issue. It is very clear to see that the screws previously standing a bit too proud are now very flush with the case, so this issue of mine has been address as well. Thank you Legend.

In conclusion, I am ecstatic at the service I have been provided and I would love to take this moment to remind readers that the cost of the original services and beyond, to me, are terribly affordable. I understand that word is one of the most subjective in life, but the service, experience, and knowledge on display is far above the price tag paid. If you are considering modifying one of your AP look-alike toys, there is but one answer in my mind, and he is on this board often.

Below are some follow-up photos and well as a few questions for those that are more "horologically inclined"?





Finally, for everyone I have three questions (I'm likely to ask this again elsewhere if there is a lack of response here)

Question 1
I was told that in the genuine piece these screws tend to sink into the case just a touch. Judging by genuine models this does seem to hold true when looking very closely, whether or not it this is 100% the case in all examples is another matter I imagine.

On my watch, though, the screw closest to 2 o'clock does display a level of "sinking" others do not. What are some of the most basic tools I would need access to in order to achieve the same across the remaining screws myself? I don't think raising this screw to match is feasible, though perhaps replacement is?

Question 2
I have a minor dent/surface imperfection on the bezel, closest to the screw at 11 o'clock. Similar to the previous question, what may be some of the best ways to reduce this imperfection further?

Is it the kind of damage that is practically speaking, not worth correcting to regain uniformity? I'm all for using these toys, so it isn't exactly the end of the world if that is the case.

Question 3
Often enough (once a week as an approximation) I find myself winding the watch manually. Whenever I've had a watch, it has been a mechanical with a rotor for winding. Is this need for manual winding outside of the expected power reserve because the genuine piece's rotor, intended to be full gold, is instead faked as gold-plated? To get to the point - is this a common issue/feature of this specific fake model? Is there anything I can have done to this rotor to improve its winding efficiency?


Thanks very much RWI for reading as well as being an incredible source of information. This very minor review of my great experience is my rather meager way of contributing back.

 

[grillbrill]

I absolutely can do this for you sir. I will quote you again tomorrow with a photo of both under direct sunlight (weather permitting). I think it would do more justice than any of my own subjective views or descriptions.

Hello again everyone,

An update on this interesting journey and an extension to the above review. Thank you for reading, I hope the sharing of these experiences proves useful for those reading now or in the future.

After posting this review Legend reached out to me. In my review there were a few "cons" floating amidst a genuine sea of "pros".

Legend made it clear that when he undertakes a project he wants to make sure the end result is to the person's liking. This includes rectifying relatively minor gripes to ensure maximum satisfaction.

So, in part, he reached out to learn more and address each of these issues in a way that only a man of integrity and passion would: offering to re-examine and provide his services in the areas outlined earlier in this review completely free of charge. Including shipping back to me, at his own cost.

I believe that this kind of response is a testament to one's character as well as further proof that this gentleman is worth every ounce of respect they have earned in this community as well as anyone's consideration for modifications of this nature (or those more advanced than this).

It would be remiss of me if I did not share these details and my own experience when reviewing a service and its outcomes, so at the very least let this single thread reiterate something that has become perfectly obvious to many by now: Legend aims to go above and beyond always.

In fact he did also offer services I had not initially paid for at all (re-brushing) as further gratuity, but we did agreed that since I never intended to baby this toy, it would be impractical to go these lengths.

This experience has only continued to be a pleasure, interactions with Legend have been nothing short of brilliant.

If you did read my review above, the minute "cons" were the following:

1. Date turnover post-servicing being farther out from midnight than expected
2. Case felt a little sharp to the touch, and featured minor hairline scratches on one side.
3. Problem bezel screws, while noticeably improved, still stuck out to a noticeable degree.

I have received the watch back, of course in record time, and have been able to observe it closely.

Regarding Point 1
The watch's date now turns over at 11:57PM. From my observation this is between ~11:57:10 and 11:57:32. I imagine as my sample size grows so too does the variance. I understand that some people are perfectionists and want their watches to turn over exactly at 12 but this is well within expected tolerances, to my understanding, and I am not so concerned with a minute here or there. Thank you Legend.

Regarding Point 2
We settled that the re-brushing of the watch was a frivolous modification considering the context in which it is going to be used. To be honest, it wouldn't sit quite right with me to receive a service I have not previously paid for at all, even though this entire scenario is a magnanimous gesture itself... This was left untouched and, again, a non-issue for me.

The case's edges that meet the bracelet (this was tricky for me to properly explain, not knowing the correct terimology) was, according to Legend, not very much sharper than one might expect from a genuine piece. Despite this, he did agree to soften it. I think now it does feel just a touch softer, making my fingers less liable to a less-than-savoury rub against it every now and again. Thank you Legend.

Regarding Point 3
We agreed to have all of the screws re-examined and redone, the thought being that if you're re-doing 4, removing the other 4 and reviewing them too is not an issue. It is very clear to see that the screws previously standing a bit too proud are now very flush with the case, so this issue of mine has been address as well. Thank you Legend.

In conclusion, I am ecstatic at the service I have been provided and I would love to take this moment to remind readers that the cost of the original services and beyond, to me, are terribly affordable. I understand that word is one of the most subjective in life, but the service, experience, and knowledge on display is far above the price tag paid. If you are considering modifying one of your AP look-alike toys, there is but one answer in my mind, and he is on this board often.

Below are some follow-up photos and well as a few questions for those that are more "horologically inclined"?





Finally, for everyone I have three questions (I'm likely to ask this again elsewhere if there is a lack of response here)

Question 1
I was told that in the genuine piece these screws tend to sink into the case just a touch. Judging by genuine models this does seem to hold true when looking very closely, whether or not it this is 100% the case in all examples is another matter I imagine.

On my watch, though, the screw closest to 2 o'clock does display a level of "sinking" others do not. What are some of the most basic tools I would need access to in order to achieve the same across the remaining screws myself? I don't think raising this screw to match is feasible, though perhaps replacement is?

Question 2
I have a minor dent/surface imperfection on the bezel, closest to the screw at 11 o'clock. Similar to the previous question, what may be some of the best ways to reduce this imperfection further?

Is it the kind of damage that is practically speaking, not worth correcting to regain uniformity? I'm all for using these toys, so it isn't exactly the end of the world if that is the case.

Question 3
Often enough (once a week as an approximation) I find myself winding the watch manually. Whenever I've had a watch, it has been a mechanical with a rotor for winding. Is this need for manual winding outside of the expected power reserve because the genuine piece's rotor, intended to be full gold, is instead faked as gold-plated? To get to the point - is this a common issue/feature of this specific fake model? Is there anything I can have done to this rotor to improve its winding efficiency?


Thanks very much RWI for reading as well as being an incredible source of information. This very minor review of my great experience is my rather meager way of contributing back.

To your questions. Owning altogether ca. 90 gen and rep watches including modded and franken ones I do understand the rabbit hole of your perfectionism. However, if I were you I'd spend zero money and time for those miniscule issues and I'd save funds for a gen dial instead. My 2 cents, ofc.

 

[zerodreamy]

Could you take picture of old dial side by side with sw? I’m not sure if ZF dial has strong sunburst

Hello again. Here are photo comparisons under direct sunlight.

Some things to note:

1. I could not get the angle for both dials to be perfectly identical. I did my best in the moment available to me.
2. This ZF dial is, of course, not in a watch. The case and stock crystal will naturally obfuscate, so this dial may look slightly different out of a watch than inside one at times.
3. Consider what your personal preference is. Each of the fake dials look slightly different than one another both in terms of construction, shine, and colour. None are 1:1 with a genuine piece in all three categories (or any three?). That is a costly and skilled endeavour, well beyond the scope of "cheap toy watches".

grillbrill, thank you very much for your advice. I appreciate it very much. Amassing 90 pieces is staggering, at least to me.

I have my own personal gripes with putting authentic parts in fake watches, as popular as it is (and for good reason). So, I while I have definitely considered it multiple times, I still have much deliberation to do on that front. Perhaps if I find an example and deal I can't refuse, who knows? Thanks everyone.

 

[gilrob]

SW dial has a much better sunburst look for sure.

 

[grillbrill]

Hello again. Here are photo comparisons under direct sunlight.

Some things to note:

1. I could not get the angle for both dials to be perfectly identical. I did my best in the moment available to me.
2. This ZF dial is, of course, not in a watch. The case and stock crystal will naturally obfuscate, so this dial may look slightly different out of a watch than inside one at times.
3. Consider what your personal preference is. Each of the fake dials look slightly different than one another both in terms of construction, shine, and colour. None are 1:1 with a genuine piece in all three categories (or any three?). That is a costly and skilled endeavour, well beyond the scope of "cheap toy watches".

grillbrill, thank you very much for your advice. I appreciate it very much. Amassing 90 pieces is staggering, at least to me.

I have my own personal gripes with putting authentic parts in fake watches, as popular as it is (and for good reason). So, I while I have definitely considered it multiple times, I still have much deliberation to do on that front. Perhaps if I find an example and deal I can't refuse, who knows? Thanks everyone.

Yep, your custom dial is a very good alternative to the gen one. I did a similar thing with my 15202 rep. Unfortunately the blue APRO dials were and most probably will never be cheap so I understand your decision. Maybe if you are bored by your blue faced watches you can then switch to a a white or a black gen dial. Wear your watch in good health, mate.

 

[pam63C]

Finally, for everyone I have three questions (I'm likely to ask this again elsewhere if there is a lack of response here)

Question 1
I was told that in the genuine piece these screws tend to sink into the case just a touch. Judging by genuine models this does seem to hold true when looking very closely, whether or not it this is 100% the case in all examples is another matter I imagine.

On my watch, though, the screw closest to 2 o'clock does display a level of "sinking" others do not. What are some of the most basic tools I would need access to in order to achieve the same across the remaining screws myself? I don't think raising this screw to match is feasible, though perhaps replacement is?

Question 2
I have a minor dent/surface imperfection on the bezel, closest to the screw at 11 o'clock. Similar to the previous question, what may be some of the best ways to reduce this imperfection further?

Is it the kind of damage that is practically speaking, not worth correcting to regain uniformity? I'm all for using these toys, so it isn't exactly the end of the world if that is the case.

Question 3
Often enough (once a week as an approximation) I find myself winding the watch manually. Whenever I've had a watch, it has been a mechanical with a rotor for winding. Is this need for manual winding outside of the expected power reserve because the genuine piece's rotor, intended to be full gold, is instead faked as gold-plated? To get to the point - is this a common issue/feature of this specific fake model? Is there anything I can have done to this rotor to improve its winding efficiency?


Thanks very much RWI for reading as well as being an incredible source of information. This very minor review of my great experience is my rather meager way of contributing back.

Thanks for the very interesting review.

I have three Royal Oaks from Legend and agree with everything you said about the man and his service. Even months after I accepted a 15500 from him, he gladly took it back to re-assess the rotor after I mentioned that the winding was not smooth.

On your three questions :

1. My friend has a gen 15500 and most of the hex screws are flushed except one which is a bit recessed. Same as my gen 15400, most flushed but two are recessed slightly. So, don't bother with yours as even the gen is not perfect.

2. A dent need to be filled up with material first and then sand down and brush to specifications. I has a bad dent on my AP repaired at APSC before and that's what they did. So, for a rep I will not be bother with a dent if it is minor.

3. Other than a gen full gold rotor which cost more than $500, you have no other choice. I looked around for a tungsten rotor but such is not available. Having said so, I am now more comfortable and satisfied with the 4302 SC after knowing from Legend that it is not meant to spin round and round like the Miyota but rather oscillates 52 degree to either side for winding. I typically keep a working watch for a week or two, wearing it in the day and having it in a winder (set to bi-directional) in the evening. And the APSF 15500 I have always keep its reserve for the entire 1-2 weeks.

On the dials. I have a refinished/enhanced ZF 15500 blue dial from Legend. And have the opportunity to compare this with my drinking buddy gen 15500 blue and I must say, the color and brilliance is close and there is zero possibility anyone can spot the difference with the watches on the wrist. Of course if you look close and know what to look for, there are differences in the tapisserie construct and the way lights are reflected. Again, without a gen by the side, only an expert can tell.

 

[Endez]

Thanks for the very interesting review.

I have three Royal Oaks from Legend and agree with everything you said about the man and his service. Even months after I accepted a 15500 from him, he gladly took it back to re-assess the rotor after I mentioned that the winding was not smooth.

On your three questions :

1. My friend has a gen 15500 and most of the hex screws are flushed except one which is a bit recessed. Same as my gen 15400, most flushed but two are recessed slightly. So, don't bother with yours as even the gen is not perfect.

2. A dent need to be filled up with material first and then sand down and brush to specifications. I has a bad dent on my AP repaired at APSC before and that's what they did. So, for a rep I will not be bother with a dent if it is minor.

3. Other than a gen full gold rotor which cost more than $500, you have no other choice. I looked around for a tungsten rotor but such is not available. Having said so, I am now more comfortable and satisfied with the 4302 SC after knowing from Legend that it is not meant to spin round and round like the Miyota but rather oscillates 52 degree to either side for winding. I typically keep a working watch for a week or two, wearing it in the day and having it in a winder (set to bi-directional) in the evening. And the APSF 15500 I have always keep its reserve for the entire 1-2 weeks.

On the dials. I have a refinished/enhanced ZF 15500 blue dial from Legend. And have the opportunity to compare this with my drinking buddy gen 15500 blue and I must say, the color and brilliance is close and there is zero possibility anyone can spot the difference with the watches on the wrist. Of course if you look close and know what to look for, there are differences in the tapisserie construct and the way lights are reflected. Again, without a gen by the side, only an expert can tell.

Could you please post a pic of your 15500 blue dial? Curious to see it. Thank you!

 

[pam63C]

Could you please post a pic of your 15500 blue dial? Curious to see it. Thank you!

Here it is.....

 

[Endez]

Here it is.....

Really Nice one! Is it a apsf modded dial or ZF modded dial?

In my opinion both are to « light blue »

I have the APSF base modded, and I am now installing the SW as well. It is too dark in my opinion, but feels more AP.

At the end, you can wear any blue dial, only few people have seen Gen blue dials as they are not common.

But for gen owners, both APSF and ZF dials, when you see them in person you know something is wrong

 

[pam63C]

Really Nice one! Is it a apsf modded dial or ZF modded dial?

In my opinion both are to « light blue »

I have the APSF base modded, and I am now installing the SW as well. It is too dark in my opinion, but feels more AP.

At the end, you can wear any blue dial, only few people have seen Gen blue dials as they are not common.

But for gen owners, both APSF and ZF dials, when you see them in person you know something is wrong

Mine is ZF modded.

I honestly think an upgrade could only be a gen dial. But each to his own as long as you are happy and contended.

 

[Roguetheory]

Cons

• Previously the date reset would happen between 11:53 and 11:54. Now it seems to consistently happen at 11:

This seems to be happening to mine too unfortunately. Is this something which happens on gens too? Or should the date flip be at exactly midnight?

 

[zerodreamy]

Thank you Pam and Endez for your very kind and insightful replies, as well as continued discussion here. I'll attach a photo of many blue dials all together for future reference. This from a video on bilbili (I believe) from many months ago - before APSF updates to 15500 dials.



The SW dial could do with leaning a bit more into the midnight blue than the steel blue, but personally I enjoy the darker tone compared to other options. Most people will associate the 15500 blue with that rather than the steel found on SW, whether it is meant to reference a very early 15500 or not.

Legend has shown and recommended a refinishing of the stock ZF dial, and I do think it is beautiful, but not necessarily for me. I tend to fall into the Endez camp that ZF is too light of a blue hue for me to enjoy. I do wonder if repainting is a viable strategy for these dials?

What also might be very interesting is a hand refinishing of the new APSF 15500 blue dial.. I would definitely appreciate more photos of that new stock dial in general, too. I have it on good authority that SW is still nicer, but out of the box improvements are the end goal for us as consumers of these fakes.

This seems to be happening to mine too unfortunately. Is this something which happens on gens too? Or should the date flip be at exactly midnight?

This was post-servicing for me. Someone please correct me if I am wrong but you need to place the hands pretty precisely to get an appropriate turn over. In my case, Legend corrected this and actually brought it a touch closer to 12 than it was out of the box.

If what you are describing is that you have a watch that one day turns over at 11:57 but another day it turns over at 11:47, or seemed to just roll back earlier and earlier.. There is an issue there, for sure. I would recommend consulting our friendly "AP internist", Legend, in hopes that he can remedy whatever is going on.

 

[Ludwig79]

I prefer the colour of the dial on the right. I find it more vibrant and I think it makes a better pair with the SS case..

I have a cheap quartz rep with a similar colour and I love it.

Just my tuppence

 

[Ludwig79]

I was referring to this image

 

[Ludwig79]

Gorgeous!

 

[zerodreamy]

That is totally fair, and more power to you, Ludwig. I think people will better resonate with a deeper blue than a darker blue. You should go with what you like most. In the end, any and all of these dials are are ersatz AP bleu nuit. Attempts. Not the real thing.

I think this will be my last photo op - people get the idea by now.

My final remark for those curious about SW is that, like most anything, photos are just photos and in person is in person. What is not shown here, is the dynamic actual blue that can be seen in certain lights and certain angles. This is best seen in medium light (white or yellow) conditions.



Despite being miles from the real thing, all of these dials are dynamic in their own way and worth your consideration.

At its core this SW dark steel dial is actually very blue yet rarely presents itself as such. The closest way I can reach to an objective truth is to call the fundamental colour somewhere between RGB (89, 104, 186, 255) and RGB (87, 112, 139).

Objectively speaking these individual colours themselves do line up with an AP bleu nuit well enough, but somewhere along the line the SW falters. It does not produce the same exact look as most 15500 dials. If you like the steel-black-blue look that is perhaps more reminiscent of a very early 15500 as shown in the first post, this may meet your needs.

At the end of the day you can use all the same/similar ingredients, recipes, timing as a Michelin chef but still produce a meal that does not at all taste or present like that chef's plate.

Thanks again everyone for the continued discussion, photos, and exchange of information. It is a great sight, and this is a great site.