I posted some quick pics a couple weeks ago of this U-Boat Flight deck that I acquired from a member on another forum. I was quickly impressed, but wanted to give it some time before actually writing any type of review.
Most people assume that the 50mm size makes the watch uncomfortable, and cumbersome on the wrist. I would tend to disagree with that assumption. I have a 7.5 inch wrist which is not small or large... And I find the watch to be comfortable, but HEAVY. Its one of those watches that you remember that you have on!
It is rather difficult to find an AD for U-Boat in Southern California, so I would think its difficult everywhere. Being as we are the largest buying population for obscene watches, you would think they were more readily available here. But they are not.
I was able to find an AD about 80 miles North of me, so I made the trip up to see what they had, try on several and mentally compare my replica to the genuine. My first observation was that there are ALOT of different dial variations on the 50mm Flight deck. The case construction has several variations, but then each case variation has several dial variations with in that group. In all I counted 14 different dials in a single line (Flight deck). The differences are very subtle. it can be the difference between a lume dot being at each marker or not. It can be the difference of where the minute text is, and of course color.
Once I finally found the dial that matched mine perfectly, I was very happily surprised to see that it was actually in the same case also. Mine is an all stainless steel case with black dial. The exact combination does exist, and I cannot find a single variation in the text, markers sizes or numerals... With the exception of ONE... The stem of the 6 numeral is slightly shorter on the replica than it is on the genuine. But it is SO small of a difference that I think I might be able to have it fixed when it goes out to be re-lumed at the end of this week.
The date font is also spot on!
The BIG disappointment is the lume... Of course these only come with rep lume, and that can be changed... I am not even sure that the best of lume can compare to what is on the genuine article. I specifically asked to see several watches in the dark and was allowed to take them in to a dark room. The lume on the genuine is the brightest Ive ever seen on a watch. We did not overly charge them before taking them in, and they glowed like they were LED lights in them. I would not have been surprised if I could have read something on a piece of paper using the watch as the light. I hope that my request for the brightest possible lume is taken seriously!!!
The case structure is very good. The genuine has the look and feel of a $4200 watch, and amazingly so does the replica. The one difference that I found was in the actual brushing of the case. The lines are much more pronounced on the genuine than they are on the replica. But again, with the right effort this could be matched. The screw down cap on the stem and crown is slightly heavier on the genuine than it is on the replica. And I found why... There is a large cavity between the inside back wall of the cap and the crown on the replica. On the genuine, the inside of the cap is shaped very closely to the crown. Thus giving it a little more weight. The shape and size of the crown itself is very close, if not identical. I did paint the U-Boat text on the cap. YES it is wrong... But I like it. And if I had a gen, I would do the same AND the U-BOAT name on the side of the case.
One issue with the replica is REALLY poor quality screws. It replicates the genuine well, but the threads were stripped on this watch when I bought it. It uses screws similar to the AP ROO with only one screw on one side. The screw threads into the long tube. It was probably thought to be odd as I spent so much time in the shop talking about buying one... But at the end of the visit I asked to buy a set of screws. They had them, and they sold them to me. I joked that I was going to buy the watch a piece at a time, and that the screws were all I could afford that day. The genuine screws fit perfectly and are of much better quality. Unfortunately, the cost was nearly $40 for the two...
The shape, size and location of the pushers are very close. In fact, the only fault I could find with them is the little effort that is needed to push the genuine. You can definitely tell the difference between an Asian 7750 and the real Swiss 7750 here. But I think that is evident on all replicas with the A7750. Im not sure what can be done to change this, as I "think" it is the movement and not the construction of the pushers... If anyone thinks otherwise, I would be willing to hear how it could be remedied. I love this watch enough that I may consider putting a Swiss movement in it.
The engraving between the lugs at the 6 oclock position is exact. The serial number and metal content even is marked with the correct font and location.
Now we all know the quality difference between an Asian 7750 and a Swiss 7750, so I wont go in to much detail here. This 7750 has the same errors as most, no fine regulator and no large rotor bearing... FRANCISCO???? If I dont put a Swiss in here, I will most likely have someone do these transplants. Anyone have a dead 7750 with a regulator???? The movement in mine winds very smoothly, smoother than most A7750 Ive had. It keeps time to within 4 seconds per 24 hours and they did do a good job of putting the correct text on the rotor.
NOW, for the record the pics I have here show a Ted Su dive strap and buckle. I think that this combination looks AWESOME on the watch. I think that they should be putting these on the watch from the factory! The genuine U-Boat straps are pure crap in my opinion. Considering they charge $150 apiece from them shocks me. The stitch quality was not great, the leather quality was not great and they just seemed CHEAP to me. The replica strap was even WORSE... SO it had to go as soon as possible. I picked up this strap today from my buddy CzarCzar! Thanks buddy!
The quality of this strap and buckle is purely incredible. The finish of the strap is great and the buckle matches the heft of the watch perfectly. BUT, it is a Royal Pain in the Arse to put on. I am not kidding when I say that I had to call my 4 year old son in to pull the buckle in one direction while I pulled the strap in the other direction. I dont see how this could be done by oneself... I just dont see it. Its a matter of the tolerances being so tight between the strap and the buckle, its just really tight and cant be done with one hand.
As I said, my first impression was WOW... and after a couple weeks of wearing it almost every day I it WOW WOW... I will surely make the mods to this one and keep it for a good long time. Some might think I am wearing this watch because I like to see peoples faces when they notice it. The simple fact is, I love the way it looks, I love the way it feels and it IS FUNNY to see what people think about it.
Enjoy the pics...
Most people assume that the 50mm size makes the watch uncomfortable, and cumbersome on the wrist. I would tend to disagree with that assumption. I have a 7.5 inch wrist which is not small or large... And I find the watch to be comfortable, but HEAVY. Its one of those watches that you remember that you have on!
It is rather difficult to find an AD for U-Boat in Southern California, so I would think its difficult everywhere. Being as we are the largest buying population for obscene watches, you would think they were more readily available here. But they are not.
I was able to find an AD about 80 miles North of me, so I made the trip up to see what they had, try on several and mentally compare my replica to the genuine. My first observation was that there are ALOT of different dial variations on the 50mm Flight deck. The case construction has several variations, but then each case variation has several dial variations with in that group. In all I counted 14 different dials in a single line (Flight deck). The differences are very subtle. it can be the difference between a lume dot being at each marker or not. It can be the difference of where the minute text is, and of course color.
Once I finally found the dial that matched mine perfectly, I was very happily surprised to see that it was actually in the same case also. Mine is an all stainless steel case with black dial. The exact combination does exist, and I cannot find a single variation in the text, markers sizes or numerals... With the exception of ONE... The stem of the 6 numeral is slightly shorter on the replica than it is on the genuine. But it is SO small of a difference that I think I might be able to have it fixed when it goes out to be re-lumed at the end of this week.
The date font is also spot on!
The BIG disappointment is the lume... Of course these only come with rep lume, and that can be changed... I am not even sure that the best of lume can compare to what is on the genuine article. I specifically asked to see several watches in the dark and was allowed to take them in to a dark room. The lume on the genuine is the brightest Ive ever seen on a watch. We did not overly charge them before taking them in, and they glowed like they were LED lights in them. I would not have been surprised if I could have read something on a piece of paper using the watch as the light. I hope that my request for the brightest possible lume is taken seriously!!!
The case structure is very good. The genuine has the look and feel of a $4200 watch, and amazingly so does the replica. The one difference that I found was in the actual brushing of the case. The lines are much more pronounced on the genuine than they are on the replica. But again, with the right effort this could be matched. The screw down cap on the stem and crown is slightly heavier on the genuine than it is on the replica. And I found why... There is a large cavity between the inside back wall of the cap and the crown on the replica. On the genuine, the inside of the cap is shaped very closely to the crown. Thus giving it a little more weight. The shape and size of the crown itself is very close, if not identical. I did paint the U-Boat text on the cap. YES it is wrong... But I like it. And if I had a gen, I would do the same AND the U-BOAT name on the side of the case.
One issue with the replica is REALLY poor quality screws. It replicates the genuine well, but the threads were stripped on this watch when I bought it. It uses screws similar to the AP ROO with only one screw on one side. The screw threads into the long tube. It was probably thought to be odd as I spent so much time in the shop talking about buying one... But at the end of the visit I asked to buy a set of screws. They had them, and they sold them to me. I joked that I was going to buy the watch a piece at a time, and that the screws were all I could afford that day. The genuine screws fit perfectly and are of much better quality. Unfortunately, the cost was nearly $40 for the two...
The shape, size and location of the pushers are very close. In fact, the only fault I could find with them is the little effort that is needed to push the genuine. You can definitely tell the difference between an Asian 7750 and the real Swiss 7750 here. But I think that is evident on all replicas with the A7750. Im not sure what can be done to change this, as I "think" it is the movement and not the construction of the pushers... If anyone thinks otherwise, I would be willing to hear how it could be remedied. I love this watch enough that I may consider putting a Swiss movement in it.
The engraving between the lugs at the 6 oclock position is exact. The serial number and metal content even is marked with the correct font and location.
Now we all know the quality difference between an Asian 7750 and a Swiss 7750, so I wont go in to much detail here. This 7750 has the same errors as most, no fine regulator and no large rotor bearing... FRANCISCO???? If I dont put a Swiss in here, I will most likely have someone do these transplants. Anyone have a dead 7750 with a regulator???? The movement in mine winds very smoothly, smoother than most A7750 Ive had. It keeps time to within 4 seconds per 24 hours and they did do a good job of putting the correct text on the rotor.
NOW, for the record the pics I have here show a Ted Su dive strap and buckle. I think that this combination looks AWESOME on the watch. I think that they should be putting these on the watch from the factory! The genuine U-Boat straps are pure crap in my opinion. Considering they charge $150 apiece from them shocks me. The stitch quality was not great, the leather quality was not great and they just seemed CHEAP to me. The replica strap was even WORSE... SO it had to go as soon as possible. I picked up this strap today from my buddy CzarCzar! Thanks buddy!
The quality of this strap and buckle is purely incredible. The finish of the strap is great and the buckle matches the heft of the watch perfectly. BUT, it is a Royal Pain in the Arse to put on. I am not kidding when I say that I had to call my 4 year old son in to pull the buckle in one direction while I pulled the strap in the other direction. I dont see how this could be done by oneself... I just dont see it. Its a matter of the tolerances being so tight between the strap and the buckle, its just really tight and cant be done with one hand.
As I said, my first impression was WOW... and after a couple weeks of wearing it almost every day I it WOW WOW... I will surely make the mods to this one and keep it for a good long time. Some might think I am wearing this watch because I like to see peoples faces when they notice it. The simple fact is, I love the way it looks, I love the way it feels and it IS FUNNY to see what people think about it.
Enjoy the pics...
