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Let’s build a Rolex Datejust 16030 Franken!

xray7

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After many years in the Rolex rep game, I’ve come to accept that liking a more vintage look is often a curse, but that cursed cloud can have a silver lining.

The rep factories and their arms race to get the modern models which the rep consuming public want that little bit better year on year is painful. They keep us coming back, and giving them money, while they go about keeping pace with the gen maker’s innovations. Gen and rep Subs went from aluminium to ceramic bezels, before that we had the addition of the absolutely awful, pointless rehaut engraving… movements have come on from nameless quartz to copies of Swiss ebauche movements with adjusted date wheels and dial apertures, to now successfully aping the entire movement.

The rep game is not a public service, the rep factories are in it for the money, rather than artistry, so they focus on the newer stuff. That means if you want an older watch, your choices will be limited, or you can find a way forward yourself.

Do you know what isn’t changing? Specs on watches made in the past.

I’ve spent a couple of weeks exceedingly unwell with Covid. Any sliver of concentration has been achieved in very limited bursts and all I’ve been able to do between hospital and my bed is browse on my phone and shop. So I’ve used that time to read, and read, and read some more, buy some parts, bother sellers in a few countries (isn’t the modern, internet driven, consumer commerce era amazing?) and get ready to put together my first Franken - and I’ve settled on a Rolex Datejust 16030.

Join me on this journey of amateur watchmaking as I set about documenting the parts and tools bought and the process of going from “I can vaguely gesture to the bonnet of a car if you ask where the spark plug is” level of technical savvy and manual dexterity to hopefully making a watch I’ll wear until I die.

I find Google SEO is unreliable in telling me where even a good restaurant is - the info served to me is that of the highest bidder on AdWords - so I’ve blundered my way forward for parts so far, and I’m still learning about the tools. I’ll write up chunks of what I learn here as I go.

I don’t have everything I need as far as tools and parts on hand just yet, but here is some of what I’ve chosen parts wise - you’ll see gen Rolex, Sternkreuz, Raffles, VSF, and Cousins in the UK well represented so far.



To be continued when I have the wherewithal…
 

Andrew_watchlist

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I'll follow along (if only to learn from your mistakes), kidding, good luck and hope you get the result you are after.
 
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xray7

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I'll follow along (if only to learn from your mistakes), kidding, good luck and hope you get the result you are after.
You are most assuredly invited to do as much, as is everyone else.

The utility in documenting my hits and misses is to make life that much easier for those who follow after. The building is only part of this journey. Things about the supply - options and suppliers - can and do change.

Seeing and documenting who sells or sold, as the case may be (because like TC one day quit making subs without handing over to anyone else, Ken at Raffles is the supply chain backbone of the vintage non-OEM parts Rolex rep game today, and I’ve absolutely no idea what we’ll all do if he tires of our detailed emails and stops trading one day) what, what works well, what didn’t work, or how something tried out looks, is all part of this minor tapestry I’m weaving.
 
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xray7

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You, sir, are clearly a gentleman of impeccable taste… a machine- turned bezel belongs with an Oyster bracelet!
In the way you’ve (allegedly and proverbially) got “business up the front, party out the back” with a mullet, the engine turned bezel Datejust on an Oyster bracelet speaks simultaneously to a dress watch which might be worn comfortably in a suit, even a tuxedo, but the Oyster bracelet says this watch is likewise capable of a day out motoring in a polo shirt or smart T-shirt. The jubilee would be too much in the latter.

It’s also an extinct combination in the retail sense, with the engine turned steel bezel, which is its own specific and particular touch… the casual observer probably doesn’t appreciate the difference between this and a fluted bezel, and those who know what it is, can fully appreciate it.

Also, just saying, I do like that trit burn on your dial.
 
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JotaMts

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I will follow closely this post as I enjoy to learn from “entrepreneur” people like you!
 

xray7

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I will follow closely this post as I enjoy to learn from “entrepreneur” people like you!
If by entrepreneur you mean a man frustrated by the lack of options in rep vintage watches, bored with waiting on the factories giving me things I actually want, tired of shoehorning my unfulfilled vintage rep desires into buying newer stuff I don’t want, who sees that building a watch out of a selection of parts is a viable option, and has no intention of making any money off my combined response to these issues manifesting in some amateur watch making - then I guess so. But that’s quite a ways off the dictionary definition.
 

JotaMts

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If by entrepreneur you mean a man frustrated by the lack of options in rep vintage watches, bored with waiting on the factories giving me things I actually want, tired of shoehorning my unfulfilled vintage rep desires into buying newer stuff I don’t want, who sees that building a watch out of a selection of parts is a viable option, and has no intention of making any money off my combined response to these issues manifesting in some amateur watch making - then I guess so. But that’s quite a ways off the dictionary definition.
Yes exactly, my definition of entrepreneur in this case is someone who does not conform to what already exists on the market, because it does not fit what might be the "perfect" fit, and decides to simply create it by himself!
As said will follow closely you and try to learn as much as possible :)

Regards
 

xray7

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Parts and tools acquisition continues.

Considering the application, I feel it only appropriate that I’ve gone with “homage to Bergeon” screwdrivers.


I could probably chance my arm on changing the date wheel on my single VS3135 at this point…
 

Drummania

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Subscribed. Curious how you are going to fit the 3135 movement into the 16000 case...
 

xray7

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A little slower this week as I’ve got another side project in comparing AliExpress crowns and bracelets with other major suppliers’ parts, and some more tools are stuck in customs right now - but it may well be time to start bringing it together.
 

xray7

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How it starts…

Top row - Raffles parts - caseback and mid case for the 2824, gasket from Raffles to use as a movement holder for the 3135 in the 2824 case, and a heavy bracelet.

Mid row - gen Rolex engine turned bezel, gen Rolex Beyeler dial, Sternkreuz pressed acrylic, VS3135 (undecorated)

Bottom row - no lume hands and open DWO from ewatch, fat springbars from Cousins in the UK.


 
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xray7

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My tweezers aren’t here so I’ve bashed through without them, this movement’s well decorated with my fingerprints now, as I just went through this fix…


 
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xray7

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Got it back together, but then the date wheel resumed slipping. Then partially put things together in the case after removing the temporary crown, put it back in, and now the crown won’t wind.

My first four hours of amateur training watch making have been inauspicious… but I’m learning!