JVS Omega Seamaster 300m

[kgerster]

There are two more shortcomings, I also saw on clones of other factories.

First, I guess, it has more to do with the date wheel of the movement. Some numbers (in particular the two-digit numbers) are correctly centered in the date windows. Leaning more to the left. What is not the case with the one-digit numbers.

Second. The 12-hour markers are not perfectly aligned.

 

[kgerster]

Some numbers (in particular the two-digit numbers) are correctly centered in the date windows.

I meant, NOT correctly

 

[jpchub]

The watch came with a SS bracelet and an "original" rubber strap. I replaced it with the Aqua Terra strap.

i like it with the AT rubber

 

[Valaj]

Used a rubber band of the Aqua Terra. Came with a stainless steel bracelet.

That actually looks very interesting. I like it. Guess I'll be going the same way!

 

[GrimReaper]

I mean you get what you pay for with JVS…ZF and VSF are the go to for a reason.

The money is worth it to go for the best in the long run than buying a cheap rep IMO…otherwise disappointing results you will have.

If it were only cheaper, I'm looking at blue and blue two tone and they are $40-60 more expensive than VSF.
Only flaw I found on JVS is the ugly lume pip, VSF's looks much better.

But I didn't take time to compare every pic. Are there any other major differences between VSF, JVS and ZF?

I already bought the JVS Tokyo 2020 as there is only ZF as alternative. On ZF I don't like the blue hands, they have white edges. And both don't have aligned caseback as ORF had. So choice was pretty easy as blue hands make this model.
But for a blue one I'm leaning towards VSF, because of the better lume pip. I don't know about ZF.

 

[kgerster]

Glad to report that (after first cleaning) the bezel action is quite good and rotating the bezel is easier.

 

[GrimReaper]

Does anyone know if I can regulate JVS same as VSF Nekton:

New Seamaster Diver 300 - Nekton

I once fitted the spring bars on my worldtimer with a spoon under 30 secs. A feat that shall never be surpassed. Bruh Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

forum.replica-watch.info

Flaws with my JVS Tokyo 2020:
-gains +47s per day (on QC it was +8s)
-bezel backplay
-sharp edges on case underside (I recently read somewhere this should be gen like, because I read some watch had them rounded too much)
-badly drilled edge of lume pip hole, knew that beforehand JVS has this problem from Trusty's pics and then also on my QC
-right 12 marker slightly below left one, already saw that on QC
-right 12 marker has a little hole in it
-date from 16 to 30 is positioned too far left, written already in first post on this page
-on 12 side of the bracelet I couldn't remove the half link, when I tried to connect full link to clasp link, it didn't go in, different tolerances than on the half link. I would guess it is the same on 6 side, so half links must stay in. I could size it to 175 mm, which is fine for my 16,5 cm wrist, though more for when my wrist swells up. I don't like to use the micro adjustment anyway as if you make it bigger, clasp also gets longer, so much that it protrudes from the edge of my wrist. So micro adjustment 5 and 6 (biggest 2) are not usable. And problem with 2-4 is that the clasp looks ugly then, you can see the middle narrower part between the clasp and the last link on the 12 side.

If I can only regulate the watch, it should be wearable. But not worth 367€ at all, should be 300€.

 

[GrimReaper]

The 12 hours markers are not perfectly aligned. The movement is beautiful and quite accurate. But do not know how to regulate the movement, as the usual method has no effect.

Regulating the movement is easy.

https://i.ibb.co/Tc2s89D/IMG-3523.jpg

Arm left of the bridge with fake arm - for regulating accuracy, clockwise to go faster, counterclockwise to go slower
Arm right of the bridge - for regulating beat error, clockwise lowers it. This one is directly below the bridge, so counterclockwise could be difficult, but I guess you don't need to touch the side of the arm to do that, end of the arm should also do it.

I managed to get mine from +49s to 0s and 0.0ms beat error. I needed 30 tries with the help of Watch Accuracy Meter mobile phone app.
And that was without fine adjustment as I don't know exactly which screws are for removing the decorative plate.


I'm missing 1 out of 3 screws for holding the movement to the outer ring, if anyone knows what's up with that?

https://i.ibb.co/znCjh95/IMG-3515.jpg

 

[GrimReaper]

Sometimes macro shots don't help, as most super clones are very close to the original and the differences are hard to see with the naked eye. However, it is often enough to feel a watch and immediately identify the fake. And here it is the rather sharp edges of the bracelet clasp that, although very well-made, betray the fake.

Edges of clasp are very nicely chamfered on my JVS Tokyo 2020. But what is not rounded are the case underside edges. At least they are rounded minimally so you don't cut yourself, so no biggie.

 

[GrimReaper]

Where is the edit button? I wanted to add all clasp edges are rounded, especially the two outer ones on the underside.

As for what tells this watch has that it is a fake, they are a lot. Anyone who is into watches, especially ones who have handled either the gen or rep Seamaster, should tell it is a fake having it in hands in less than 10 seconds. If I check what I wrote above, I would start with the bezel backplay and check the lume pip and the surrounding hole under the light. Then I would go check the 12 hour markers, those are very hard to position 100% for Chinese. And with loupe you can tell the fake right away by looking at almost any part of the dial.
You get what you pay for, it is either this or some Islander or other micro brand watch. They for sure have better QC than Chinese.

About bezel backplay, it's actually better it has it, otherwise it wouldn't be aligned like on my Pagani Design, Phylida and Watchdives watches. With a little backplay you can align it yourself.

 

[KermitTheFrog]

Regulating the movement is easy.

https://i.ibb.co/Tc2s89D/IMG-3523.jpg

Arm left of the bridge with fake arm - for regulating accuracy, clockwise to go faster, counterclockwise to go slower
Arm right of the bridge - for regulating beat error, clockwise lowers it. This one is directly below the bridge, so counterclockwise could be difficult, but I guess you don't need to touch the side of the arm to do that, end of the arm should also do it.

I managed to get mine from +49s to 0s and 0.0ms beat error. I needed 30 tries with the help of Watch Accuracy Meter mobile phone app.
And that was without fine adjustment as I don't know exactly which screws are for removing the decorative plate.


I'm missing 1 out of 3 screws for holding the movement to the outer ring, if anyone knows what's up with that?

https://i.ibb.co/znCjh95/IMG-3515.jpg

Can you point these (the arms) out with some arrows in the picture? I have an older NTTD that could use some adjustments. And I don't know what I'm looking for here ...

 

[GrimReaper]

Can you point these (the arms) out with some arrows in the picture? I have an older NTTD that could use some adjustments. And I don't know what I'm looking for here ...

These are the two ETA 2824-2 arms:

https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/who-regulates-their-own-eta-2824-2-movements.1060384/

Only problem with these reps is that they have a fake bridge covering them partially. Here they are:



I also managed to remove the half link. What you do is first remove it, then if clasp end link doesn't go in last full link of the bracelet, what you do is take only the one male part of clasp end link and push it into one female part of the bracelet link. Mine went only on the left half of the link first. On the right half I tried to push it in a couple of times and it went. Then I wiggled it up and down to make the female part wider.
I think you will get what I mean. Bracelet link is not made out of a single part, but 9 parts, 3 are large ones. So those 3 large ones have some wiggle room. If it doesn't go with the clasp end link, you can use some other tool to widen it.

 

[GrimReaper]

I still don't know about fine adjustment screw. I don't need it, I set the watch in the morning and it is now at only +2s.
I guess you this could help, you need to remove the decorative plate:

New Seamaster Diver 300 - Nekton

I once fitted the spring bars on my worldtimer with a spoon under 30 secs. A feat that shall never be surpassed. Bruh Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

forum.replica-watch.info

It's for VSF, but it should be similar.