Just bought my first Daytona 116500 from Hont!

[WatchFan13]

Hi guys, I am new here. Just bought my first rep (BTF V3 Panda 116500) from Hont.

Still waiting to receive QC pics. Hont gave me an indication that QC time accuracy is slow by around 2-8 secs. So, I assume he has one already available, probably was rejected by someone else.

If end up seeing -8s/d in QC pics should I reject the watch and seek for more something more accurate like +/-2s/d? Or should I still accept it?

 

[Tucker]

Hi guys, I am new here. Just bought my first rep (BTF V3 Panda 116500) from Hont.

Still waiting to receive QC pics. Hont gave me an indication that QC time accuracy is slow by around 2-8 secs. So, I assume he has one already available, probably was rejected by someone else.

If end up seeing -8s/d in QC pics should I reject the watch and seek for more something more accurate like +/-2s/d? Or should I still accept it?

You are buying a replica Rolex, not a real Rolex. COSC standards are -4 sec to +6 sec off. A replica with +/- 8 sec is good. These replicas are usually tested in one position. Don't put too much stock in the timegrapher results provided by the TDs. Look at your QC photos to make sure you are getting the watch you purchased and make sure there are no significant flaws with the watch such as a scratched crystal or damaged bezel. Relax and enjoy your replica watch for what it is.

Read this article on timegrapher results:

How To Use a Timegrapher

How To Use a Timegrapher

www.bobswatches.com

 

[rolex4me]

hi, as tucker mentioned, if that's the only problem then everything is fine. rest easy and look forward to your new watch (and be patient)

 

[Feefo]

Hi, welcome to RWI!
This is your second post but I get you've already read around a bit. I suggest, continue reading, especially the sticky threads in the New Members area (which you at least started reading), lots of uesful information and a couple of rules that are good to know and comply to. A good example:

You are welcome

If you've just joined and are reading this, welcome to RWI. If you stop here, or read just the next few lines, that's on YOU, but don't ever say you weren't warned. If you are approached by ANYONE, absolutely ANYONE, offering you a watch, or a deal, via Private Message, exercise common sense...

forum.replica-watch.info

And specifically related to your query:

The purpose of QC pictures

At RWI, we're fortunate to have a few dealers who take the time to individually procure, inspect, and photograph watches for potential buyers. This has not always been the norm, and in fact, it's a recent development. Up until about two years ago, all of the dealers drop-shipped everything and...

forum.replica-watch.info

A little on QC pics.

QC pics are to satisfy YOU that the watch is OK to YOUR standards, that there are no crooked indices, missing lume, offset chrono hands etc. QC pics are not for picking tells or things that are present in every example of a model such as spelling errors, happy feet, wrong lume colour etc. These...

forum.replica-watch.info

+8 secs is as good as it gets, don't overthink it. As already suggested, that is a momentary snapshot, timegrapher readings may vary a lot when you get it.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out, @eBoy and I will be happy to assist.

 

[p0pperini]

So, I assume he has one already available, probably was rejected by someone else.

Love that assumption/presumption combo there.

 

[eBoy]

Hi guys, I am new here. Just bought my first rep (BTF V3 Panda 116500) from Hont.

Still waiting to receive QC pics. Hont gave me an indication that QC time accuracy is slow by around 2-8 secs. So, I assume he has one already available, probably was rejected by someone else.

If end up seeing -8s/d in QC pics should I reject the watch and seek for more something more accurate like +/-2s/d? Or should I still accept it?

That's well within specs for a rep. Very well, actually. I'd even green light a watch with worse deviation in timing, because it would still be within what's normal for a replica watch that costs 5% of the real thing...

So what if someone rejected it, based on a perfectly acceptable accuracy/performance? Their loss, your gain: No waiting time for you!

 

[TESLA760]

Love that assumption/presumption combo there.

It's unreal the things we see posted here

 

[WatchFan13]

You are buying a replica Rolex, not a real Rolex. COSC standards are -4 sec to +6 sec off. A replica with +/- 8 sec is good. These replicas are usually tested in one position. Don't put too much stock in the timegrapher results provided by the TDs. Look at your QC photos to make sure you are getting the watch you purchased and make sure there are no significant flaws with the watch such as a scratched crystal or damaged bezel. Relax and enjoy your replica watch for what it is.

Read this article on timegrapher results:

How To Use a Timegrapher

How To Use a Timegrapher

www.bobswatches.com

You are buying a replica Rolex, not a real Rolex. COSC standards are -4 sec to +6 sec off. A replica with +/- 8 sec is good. These replicas are usually tested in one position. Don't put too much stock in the timegrapher results provided by the TDs. Look at your QC photos to make sure you are getting the watch you purchased and make sure there are no significant flaws with the watch such as a scratched crystal or damaged bezel. Relax and enjoy your replica watch for what it is.

Read this article on timegrapher results:

How To Use a Timegrapher

How To Use a Timegrapher

www.bobswatches.com

Thank you. Just wanted to be little careful before making first replica purchase

 

[WatchFan13]

Hi, welcome to RWI!
This is your second post but I get you've already read around a bit. I suggest, continue reading, especially the sticky threads in the New Members area (which you at least started reading), lots of uesful information and a couple of rules that are good to know and comply to. A good example:

You are welcome

If you've just joined and are reading this, welcome to RWI. If you stop here, or read just the next few lines, that's on YOU, but don't ever say you weren't warned. If you are approached by ANYONE, absolutely ANYONE, offering you a watch, or a deal, via Private Message, exercise common sense...

forum.replica-watch.info

And specifically related to your query:

The purpose of QC pictures

At RWI, we're fortunate to have a few dealers who take the time to individually procure, inspect, and photograph watches for potential buyers. This has not always been the norm, and in fact, it's a recent development. Up until about two years ago, all of the dealers drop-shipped everything and...

forum.replica-watch.info

A little on QC pics.

QC pics are to satisfy YOU that the watch is OK to YOUR standards, that there are no crooked indices, missing lume, offset chrono hands etc. QC pics are not for picking tells or things that are present in every example of a model such as spelling errors, happy feet, wrong lume colour etc. These...

forum.replica-watch.info

+8 secs is as good as it gets, don't overthink it. As already suggested, that is a momentary snapshot, timegrapher readings may vary a lot when you get it.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out, @eBoy and I will be happy to assist.

Thank you for offering your assistance. After going through above QC related links, I have an idea what I should be inspecting in QC pics. Appreciate for sharing those links

 

[WatchFan13]

QC pics received. All looks good except the Bezel alignment. 60 and 120 markings look little off. Maybe it is just me or the angel of the pics.

Any input experts @eBoy, @Feefo ?

 

[eBoy]

Not an expert , but lemme try:

Uh, yeah, damn.. Looks definitely off. I'd say RL, but wait a bit for more input by actual experts.

 

[eBoy]

At 120 it's not immediately visible, only at a second glance. But holy cow, at the top... No man, I would not approve with the TD, which is a shame because everything else seems okay. Except for some of the markers not being 1000% aligned, but not to a degree definitely calling for RL. But the bezel needs to be realigned or the watch returned & replaced if the TD doesn't have a watchmaker on-site ...

 

[WatchFan13]

At 120 it's not immediately visible, only at a second glance. But holy cow, at the top... No man, I would not approve with the TD, which is a shame because everything else seems okay. Except for some of the markers not being 1000% aligned, but not to a degree definitely calling for RL. But the bezel needs to be realigned or the watch returned & replaced if the TD doesn't have a watchmaker on-site ...

Thank for prompt reply. Hont confirmed no issues with Bezel alignments. I am waiting for him to share pics from different angel to confirm it.

 

[eBoy]

Thank for prompt reply. Hont confirmed no issues with Bezel alignments. I am waiting for him to share pics from different angel to confirm it.

Wow, really? Hmmm okay. But honestly, from those photos it doesn't look like a camera angle issue, but it's not like that's 100% impossible.

That's what makes photo-based QC so difficult. Images can be very deceiving...

 

[p0pperini]

That bezel is way off. If it was a camera angle issue, the 60 and 120 wouldn’t be off in opposite directions.

 

[Feefo]

But isn’t that an easy fix though? No Daytona expert, but other fix bezel watches you can just pop it off, realign and press tight. Would this work with a Daytona, too?

 

[p0pperini]

just pop it off, realign and press tight.

And then have a little cry because it's made of ceramic, and you didn't apply even pressure, and it snapped.

Which I did... Albeit while trying to get a not-fully-seated one (which was how it came back to me from a watchsmith) fully pressed on, without doing what I should've done - take it off, get it level, then press it back on.

So, be aware... these things are brittle, and fragile when not installed. And you need to use care, and the right tools for removal and installation (various thin bladed tools for removal - I use single sided razors, Stanley blades, caseback knives (all taped), crystal/bezel press and the correct size dies to install).

 

[Feefo]

And then have a little cry because it's made of ceramic, and you didn't apply even pressure, and it snapped.

Which I did... Albeit while trying to get a not-fully-seated one (which was how it came back to me from a watchsmith) fully pressed on, without doing what I should've done - take it off, get it level, then press it back on.

So, be aware... these things are brittle, and fragile when not installed. And you need to use care, and the right tools for removal and installation (various thin bladed tools for removal - I use single sided razors, Stanley blades, caseback knives (all taped), crystal/bezel press and the correct size dies to install).

Noted, thanks for pointing out!

 

[p0pperini]

NP - it's always worth considering the potential difficulty of a modification before taking it on. Is it an "easy" DIY job? Or am I going to have to pay someone to fix this for me?

 

[Feefo]

Well, I’m not a diy person for this kind of stuff yet, making baby steps but really relaxed. This kind of hobby takes to catastrophe without the right tools, so I wouldn’t venture into anything I hadn’t all the (proper quality) equipment for and I hadn’t ever seen doing or tried myself on some sacrifice pieces. So, I would maybe try on a steel bezel, with ceramic as you say it’s another story.