JF 16610LV minor mods: questions

[ROXOLO]

Hi,

I've just ordered a JF 16610LV no rehaut.
I've decided to do some minor mods on it (well, my watchsmith is gonna do it, not me) as the movement is going to be serviced anyways...

I would like to install a Clark crystal; I suppose that's the best aftermarket crystal available? I do not really care about the absence of LEC, however (pardon my ignorance) I do not know the reference of the crystal I should order. I also suppose it shouldn't have AR on the cyclops, for that watch? And finally, while ordering I need to say which height gasket I need : 2,3mm, or 2,5mm?

Another question: is it worth buying a complete set of gen/aftermarket 16610 rubber gaskets, in order to make the rep more waterproof? Is the JF construction 1:1 and will those fit? or will it be a complete waste of cash? If I could swim with the watch it would be great (not dive, obviously). Should the crown/tube be changed for that, or is the JF crown/tube fine?

Thanks everyone!

 

[Dizzy]

Unless you want an AR cyclops, I wouldn’t bother replacing the crystal. If you want AR then get one from Prof here on the forum. It’s as good as the Gen Rolex crystal and way less money. As for the gaskets, you don’t need to replace them unless they aren’t sealing, and yes it takes genuine 16610 gaskets. The crown doesn’t need to be replaced unless you really want to. The JF is a very good watch out of the box. The only thing I replaced on mine was the insert with a Gen because I happened to have one laying around. I’ll probably put a Prob Black hole crystal in it soon. If you sent your 16610 to Rolex for service, it would probably come back with an AR cyclops, so technically it’s correct for the watch.

 

[ROXOLO]

Thanks for your answer! I couldn't wait and bought a Clark crystal with 2,7mm gasket, and a set of 16610 rubber gaskets as well. The price was reasonable so I thought, why not? I can't wait to receive it, but that's not gonna be before weeks and weeks, so I better be patient ^^ the Kermit has been my favorite Rolex for seemingly forever, so I wanna do things right.

 

[bc1221]

You’re not gonna be able to fit the retaining ring on the gen spec gasket. The JF gasket is thinner so the retaining ring isn’t gonna be wide enough. I ran in to this issue a few weeks ago. Good thing I had a gen spec retaining ring from ST.

I went with the AR’d version. Period correct or not. It was just $10 bucks more so I figured I’d at least give it a try.

It’s not bad.

I know, I need to re-align it. It was a quick job moving parts between that a my ST supply. For $35 bucks, Gary’s crystals are pretty damn good. The AR isn’t as good as profs or gen but it’s $35 bucks vs $200+

I like it.


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[ROXOLO]

Unless you want an AR cyclops, I wouldn’t bother replacing the crystal. If you want AR then get one from Prof here on the forum. It’s as good as the Gen Rolex crystal and way less money. As for the gaskets, you don’t need to replace them unless they aren’t sealing, and yes it takes genuine 16610 gaskets. The crown doesn’t need to be replaced unless you really want to. The JF is a very good watch out of the box. The only thing I replaced on mine was the insert with a Gen because I happened to have one laying around. I’ll probably put a Prob Black hole crystal in it soon. If you sent your 16610 to Rolex for service, it would probably come back with an AR cyclops, so technically it’s correct for the watch.

Hey by the way, did your get insert fit the watch without fuss?

 

[KJ2020]

I like the Clark's AR cyclops crystals. I have 3 or 4 of them and it's a nice improvement over many stock rep crystals. The AR on those is between the crystal and the cyclops which is perfect. AR scratches easily, especially on a cyclops. I work on reps and have seen a lot of scratches on AR that is exposed.

If a gen-spec gasket is too thick, it can be thinned easily enough. Put it on the crystal and put a piece of 320 or 400 grit sandpaper flat on a bench. Hold the crystal on edge and swipe/roll it toward you covering about 1/8 to 1/6 of the diameter. Then rotate it to the next section. Measure often to maintain uniformity and overlap sections. This is exactly the same technique used to decrease the outer diameter of an insert, which likely will need to be done to fit a gen-spec insert into the JF bezel.

This gasket had to be thinned to allow the bezel (which acts as the retaining ring) to be re-fitted.

 

[Aphung2]

I like the Clark's AR cyclops crystals. I have 3 or 4 of them and it's a nice improvement over many stock rep crystals. The AR on those is between the crystal and the cyclops which is perfect. AR scratches easily, especially on a cyclops. I work on reps and have seen a lot of scratches on AR that is exposed.

If a gen-spec gasket is too thick, it can be thinned easily enough. Put it on the crystal and put a piece of 320 or 400 grit sandpaper flat on a bench. Hold the crystal on edge and swipe/roll it toward you covering about 1/8 to 1/6 of the diameter. Then rotate it to the next section. Measure often to maintain uniformity and overlap sections. This is exactly the same technique used to decrease the outer diameter of an insert, which likely will need to be done to fit a gen-spec insert into the JF bezel.

This gasket had to be thinned to allow the bezel (which acts as the retaining ring) to be re-fitted.

Thank you very much for the information. I personally have a JF 16610lv without the rehaut engraving coming as well and I’ve ordered a gen insert to go along with it. I’ve referenced mega12’s 16610 franken build thread and he mentions the same experience as you in regard to having to sand the gen insert to fit it into the JF bezel. It seems that it really is YMMV as some have been able to get it done without sanding.. and I’m praying that is the case for me. I believe another solution may be to source an ST bezel which should allow a gen insert to snap on. I’m not doing the labor myself as I’m inquiring one of the esteemed watch modders on this board to help, but I’m still hoping things go smoothly.

In regard to the crystal, like some of the other members that have posted on this thread, I am electing to opt for the AR cyclops. The exact model of this crystal should be B25-295-CAR for reference, and from my research this should have the correct bevel measurement for the JF. There seems to be different schools of thought for these builds of being ‘period correct’ or just to look nice, and I’m personally opting for the nicer look. IMO this is one of the most transforming components of the watch

 

[bc1221]

Thank you very much for the information. I personally have a JF 16610lv without the rehaut engraving coming as well and I’ve ordered a gen insert to go along with it. I’ve referenced mega12’s 16610 franken build thread and he mentions the same experience as you in regard to having to sand the gen insert to fit it into the JF bezel. It seems that it really is YMMV as some have been able to get it done without sanding.. and I’m praying that is the case for me. I believe another solution may be to source an ST bezel which should allow a gen insert to snap on. I’m not doing the labor myself as I’m inquiring one of the esteemed watch modders on this board to help, but I’m still hoping things go smoothly.

In regard to the crystal, like some of the other members that have posted on this thread, I am electing to opt for the AR cyclops. The exact model of this crystal should be B25-295-CAR for reference, and from my research this should have the correct bevel measurement for the JF. There seems to be different schools of thought for these builds of being ‘period correct’ or just to look nice, and I’m personally opting for the nicer look. IMO this is one of the most transforming components of the watch

Whatever you do, don’t buy the WSO bezel kit. That crap is garbage. They say it’s all gen spec and they the insert will snap in like gen but when delivered, it’s glued on to the bezel. When you try to snap it back in, it doesn’t sit. It will spin and eventually fall out.

Their tension ring is about as stable as aluminum foil. It’s all garbage. For $100 bucks, I thought it would at least the insert would snap in to the bezel since they both come from the same supplier. NOPE.

thats like the 4th fail on parts I’ve bought from them. It’s garbage.

I wish Gary made bezels. His supply is usually completely gen spec.


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[Aphung2]

Whatever you do, don’t buy the WSO bezel kit. That crap is garbage. They say it’s all gen spec and they the insert will snap in like gen but when delivered, it’s glued on to the bezel. When you try to snap it back in, it doesn’t sit. It will spin and eventually fall out.

Their tension ring is about as stable as aluminum foil. It’s all garbage. For $100 bucks, I thought it would at least the insert would snap in to the bezel since they both come from the same supplier. NOPE.

thats like the 4th fail on parts I’ve bought from them. It’s garbage.

I wish Gary made bezels. His supply is usually completely gen spec.


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Definitely not the first time I’ve heard to avoid WSO parts.. hahaha. Really appreciate the advice!! Here’s to hoping that it works on the JF bezel from the get go...

 

[Dino2018]

I believe another solution may be to source an ST bezel which should allow a gen insert to snap on. I’m not doing the labor myself as I’m inquiring one of the esteemed watch modders on this board to help, but I’m still hoping things go smoothly.

Hello, the ST bezel needs to be machined to accept a gen insert. You can sand the bezel by hand also but is a time consuming work. You should never sand a gen insert.

 

[Aphung2]

Hello, the ST bezel needs to be machined to accept a gen insert. You can sand the bezel by hand also but is a time consuming work. You should never sand a gen insert.

Thanks so much for the input, and OP I’m sorry for highjacking your thread lol

After some reading and consideration.. it seems like a gen bezel assembly seems like a worthy endeavor to accept the insert without issues and also to improve the rotating action of the bezel. My search on eBay is showing me 16610 bezel assemblies with the black insert for around $600, and one seller posted a stated genuine retaining ring for $75.00. My guess is that buying only the retaining ring won’t solve the issue. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ro...251669?hash=item341f872bd5:g:3J4AAOSwvoBa0S69

Does around $600 sound about right for the genuine bezel assemblies for the 16610? Just trying to get a ballpark of what they normally go for

 

[bc1221]

Thanks so much for the input, and OP I’m sorry for highjacking your thread lol

After some reading and consideration.. it seems like a gen bezel assembly seems like a worthy endeavor to accept the insert without issues and also to improve the rotating action of the bezel. My search on eBay is showing me 16610 bezel assemblies with the black insert for around $600, and one seller posted a stated genuine retaining ring for $75.00. My guess is that buying only the retaining ring won’t solve the issue. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ro...251669?hash=item341f872bd5:g:3J4AAOSwvoBa0S69

Does around $600 sound about right for the genuine bezel assemblies for the 16610? Just trying to get a ballpark of what they normally go for

That shouldn’t make a difference tbh. If you’re modding a JF case, the retaining ring is just a bit smaller in circumference so you just need a thinner gasket or sand the inside of the retaining ring but the outer part is the same size. You can put gen bezel ring on it. Ive tested this on both JF and ST cases. ST cases are all gen spec and I thought JF was too but the gen spec crystal gasket is thinner on JF cases is pretty much the only difference as far as the retaining ring goes. The outer part is the same size. You just get a wider hole on the click spring.

Just stick with the JF retaining ring and spend that money on a gen bezel ring and insert.

Oh and JF’s crystal gasket goes all the way to the bottom of the rehaut, where as the ST case or gen spec has a small step the gasket sits on, which makes it a super pain in the ass to remove.

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[Daryl70]

Definitely not the first time I’ve heard to avoid WSO parts.. hahaha. Really appreciate the advice!! Here’s to hoping that it works on the JF bezel from the get go...

Whats wso stand for?

 

[KJ2020]

Whats wso stand for?

http://www.ebaystores.com/wholesaleoutlet990

 

[Daryl70]

http://www.ebaystores.com/wholesaleoutlet990

Oh them yes I have bought a crystal from them it didn't have any magnification and didn't fit my 116610ln arf also took months to arrive

 

[ROXOLO]

http://www.ebaystores.com/wholesaleoutlet990

Ohhh... those guys! I bought an aftermarket LV "fat four" bezel insert from them. Just received it two days ago. The thing looks like crap, really... I don't get it. A 30$ throw-away quartz movement 16610 would have a nicer looking insert than this. The pearl is absolutely awful.

 

[bc1221]

They straight up scam eBay too.
I ordered a few things from them. One was a datewheel for a 3035. I could tell by just looking at it that it wasn’t centered.

I didn’t even open the thing and returned it. They said that it was damaged and that they would only give me a partial refund until I told them I didn’t even open the damn thing.

Then they said to tell eBay that the item was damaged and eBay would cover it.

SMH.


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[bc1221]

Thanks so much for the input, and OP I’m sorry for highjacking your thread lol

After some reading and consideration.. it seems like a gen bezel assembly seems like a worthy endeavor to accept the insert without issues and also to improve the rotating action of the bezel. My search on eBay is showing me 16610 bezel assemblies with the black insert for around $600, and one seller posted a stated genuine retaining ring for $75.00. My guess is that buying only the retaining ring won’t solve the issue. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ro...251669?hash=item341f872bd5:g:3J4AAOSwvoBa0S69

Does around $600 sound about right for the genuine bezel assemblies for the 16610? Just trying to get a ballpark of what they normally go for

Gen retainer rings won’t fit a JF case + Gasket and crystal. JF uses a thinner gasket so a gen retainer ring would be loose so you would need a gen or gen spec gasket. It’s cheap but worth it for sure.

Gen retainer rings for $600 is a bit much imo. They’re not rare and STs retainer ring is just as good. It’s the bezel ring that’s a pain in the ass to find a gen spec aftermarket version of.


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[Aphung2]

Gen retainer rings won’t fit a JF case + Gasket and crystal. JF uses a thinner gasket so a gen retainer ring would be loose so you would need a gen or gen spec gasket. It’s cheap but worth it for sure.

Gen retainer rings for $600 is a bit much imo. They’re not rare and STs retainer ring is just as good. It’s the bezel ring that’s a pain in the ass to find a gen spec aftermarket version of.


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Thanks!! The $600 was for the complete assembly, not just the retainer ring. Fierygems on eBay located in CONUS has the retainer rings only in great condition for $75.

I have since sourced a genuine bezel ring and tension spring from another user on this forum (just my luck!!). I also purchased a genuine retaining ring from the store stated above and genuine b317-16800 click spring.. so I pretty much have an entire genuine bezel assembly. The amount I paid was much cheaper than the $600 that people are selling them for, and the person who sold me the rotating bezel threw in a genuine LN insert!

I also quickly realized that the stock JF crystal and gasket wouldn’t work because it’s too thin as you’ve stated, but I have a new blistered 295-CAR crystal with gasket (wasn’t cheap!!) which should hopefully solve that issue. It isn’t period correct, but damn will it look good.

My base watch is currently making its way to tripdog so that he can rework the lugs and recess the tube so CG’s are longer. He is also giving the case and bracelet a rebrush. So far, I’m really enjoying the journey of learning how this works and procuring the parts!

 

[BreatheNBeat92]

Hello all, im looking to assemble and 16610 kermit. I want to add a eta movement. I see on TT they have a BP / JF kermit but it says A 3135 movement.

Which factory shall i go for so i can add an eta? And i believe it would be 2836. Is it the same thing if i use 2836 or 2824? I have a bp case but im missing a dial for 2824/2836.

What would be my best and convenient to do bet?