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How do I de-case my PAM425?

Norrie

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I bought a PAM425 P3000 super clone a while back and the seller claimed it was sapphire but I have a feeling it's not.
A) how do I test if it's sapphire or not? and
B) how do I remove the stem to get the movement out to clean the inside of the crystal? It has a haze to it.
Thanks!
 

mysterio

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Norrie
1. Get a diamond tester. It's the best test for sapphire and it's dirt cheap.
2. There is a screw on the movement near the stem (please see red circle).
upEZe.png

Put the crown on the winding position, and then unscrew this screw (do not remove) in half-turn increments, each time trying to see if the stem will pull out (should not take more than 1 1/2 turns). Also re-tighten this screw once the stem is out as the loss of the screw would be catastrophic and may mess up the keyless.

By the way, information was provided by Rolexman who did the teardown of the P.3000 movement when it first came out so hats off to him. :)
 

Norrie

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Norrie
1. Get a diamond tester. It's the best test for sapphire and it's dirt cheap.
2. There is a screw on the movement near the stem (please see red circle).

Put the crown on the winding position, and then unscrew this screw (do not remove) in half-turn increments, each time trying to see if the stem will pull out (should not take more than 1 1/2 turns). Also re-tighten this screw once the stem is out as the loss of the screw would be catastrophic and may mess up the keyless.

By the way, information was provided by Rolexman who did the teardown of the P.3000 movement when it first came out so hats off to him. :)

Thanks Mysterio. It seems to be a front loading movement. Any idea how I get at the crystal on the inside? I read Chris' pull down but it didn't mention that part.
 

mysterio

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Thanks Mysterio. It seems to be a front loading movement. Any idea how I get at the crystal on the inside? I read Chris' pull down but it didn't mention that part.

Hmm, the factory might have decided to do the installation differently on your PAM (although I am currently unclear as from which watch the P.3000 Rolexman came from). If it's like the typical bezel installation, then the bezel might be force fitted on the mid case. Can you see a notch anywhere on the underside of the bezel?
 

Norrie

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Hmm, the factory might have decided to do the installation differently on your PAM (although I am currently unclear as from which watch the P.3000 Rolexman came from). If it's like the typical bezel installation, then the bezel might be force fitted on the mid case. Can you see a notch anywhere on the underside of the bezel?

The movement sits under some tabs. See in the far-left of the pic you posted. No notch unfortunately. Doesn't seem to unscrew like a 348 either.
 

mysterio

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The movement sits under some tabs. See in the far-left of the pic you posted. No notch unfortunately. Doesn't seem to unscrew like a 348 either.

So you didn't remove the tabs first? That's the function of the tabs right, to keep the movement in place?
 

Norrie

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So you didn't remove the tabs first? That's the function of the tabs right, to keep the movement in place?

That makes sense but I read that the movement was front loaded so I've been concentrating on the bezel and crystal. I assumed the tabs were secured to the case. I'm busy but will report back what I get a chance to have another crack at it. Thanks Mysterio.
 

mysterio

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That makes sense but I read that the movement was front loaded so I've been concentrating on the bezel and crystal. I assumed the tabs were secured to the case. I'm busy but will report back what I get a chance to have another crack at it. Thanks Mysterio.

Hmm, looking into the matter further, I traced back Rolexman's thread and it shows that the P.3000 came from a PAM372, so maybe it was rear-loaded from a Luminor case.
https://rwg.cc/topic/166048-update-u...0-super-clone/
31539C39-D2D8-4CF0-A158-2737F546E538_zpsytikegrb.jpg


Then for a PAM425, which is a Radiomir case, same as the PAM425, it's front loaded, based on chris3007's thread. Maybe chris3007 can comment.
https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...-hell-and-back

I also found this article over on HF regarding the stem removal for a P.3000, same as your question :lol: ).
http://www.homageforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=40231

It shows the notch on the bezel, which looks to be on the 10 o'clock location, same as the bezel removal notch on Luminors. I'm pasting the images and the description of what was done here so you don't have to jump to the article if you don't need to. :)

What I did to get mine off was I used a razor blade. If you look very closely at the bezel, you will find a notch, squeeze the blade as flush as possible under that notch and apply soft downward pressure on the blade, which will put upward pressure on the the bezel. As the bezel starts to lift start moving the blade to other areas so that you loosen it equally all around.
aa72ae244ae89150e8eec7c463a32a30.jpg

31b70e9f0027a258498142d0abbf9716.jpg
.
b48719cc75db8f17eae6a2c0e35e85db.jpg

I hope that helps. :)
 

Norrie

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I don't see any notch on my bezel. I removed the movement tabs and nothing happened except now I have three movement screws and tabs I can't seem to get back in. So yes, it's front loaded but I still can't seem to get at it. I'll keep trying and hope I don't ruin my case. Thanks!
 

mysterio

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I don't see any notch on my bezel. I removed the movement tabs and nothing happened except now I have three movement screws and tabs I can't seem to get back in. So yes, it's front loaded but I still can't seem to get at it. I'll keep trying and hope I don't ruin my case. Thanks!

Well the notch isn't really just meant to be in the 10 o'clock position, there isn't any groove on the case nor the bezel to force it to be there. Maybe it was attached in another orientation.
 

Norrie

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Well the notch isn't really just meant to be in the 10 o'clock position, there isn't any groove on the case nor the bezel to force it to be there. Maybe it was attached in another orientation.

Thanks for all your help here Mysterio. You're a champ.
I couldn't see any notch but where there's a will, there's a way. I managed to get a thinner blade under it, get the bezel off, clean under the crystal and get it back on. But do you think I can get these bloody movement clips and screws back in? I might have to take it to a watchsmith just for them to do that. I can get the clips lined up but I can't seem to line up the screws with my tweezers. Is there a trick of the trade that makes it easier?
 

Vesire

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You can always check saphire with a drop of water, if the drop stays complete is saphire, if it splashesh its mineral
Must be like this when you shake a bit the watch, drop stays and slides as 1.


droptestbenarus.jpg
 

Norrie

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You can always check saphire with a drop of water, if the drop stays complete is saphire, if it splashesh its mineral
Must be like this when you shake a bit the watch, drop stays and slides as 1.

Yes, I did this and while it was sold to me as sapphire, it's not unfortunately.
 

capice

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Really interested if this was a frontloader?
 

Vesire

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if you remove the 2 tabs and the movement don't get out .. u have front loader.
I have this "problem" with a pilot, non rep, with unitas 6497.. had a dust inside, tried to remove movement but no.. did not came out after tabs removed, so i left it like this
i also could not open the front
was like this

s-l400.jpg
 

Norrie

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Yes, when I removed the tabs, the movement wouldn't come out from the back. I didn't try to take it out the front once I got the crystal off. I just needed to clean the inside of the crystal/plexi.
 

mysterio

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Thanks for all your help here Mysterio. You're a champ.
I couldn't see any notch but where there's a will, there's a way. I managed to get a thinner blade under it, get the bezel off, clean under the crystal and get it back on. But do you think I can get these bloody movement clips and screws back in? I might have to take it to a watchsmith just for them to do that. I can get the clips lined up but I can't seem to line up the screws with my tweezers. Is there a trick of the trade that makes it easier?

That's great! Too bad you couldn't take any photos of the removal (or did you? :) ). Sorry I can't be of much help on the return of the movement tabs. Maybe there's a specific order of the tabs that's just right for the screws to align.
 

Norrie

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That's great! Too bad you couldn't take any photos of the removal (or did you? :) ). Sorry I can't be of much help on the return of the movement tabs. Maybe there's a specific order of the tabs that's just right for the screws to align.

Photos wouldn't add anything to what you already linked to and to be honest, I went at it really quickly because I was supposed to be working. So I wasn't thinking of photos, sorry. I've been using a lupe so I'm guessing it's probably easier to get the screws in with a standard magnifying glass.
 

mysterio

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Photos wouldn't add anything to what you already linked to and to be honest, I went at it really quickly because I was supposed to be working. So I wasn't thinking of photos, sorry. I've been using a lupe so I'm guessing it's probably easier to get the screws in with a standard magnifying glass.

Well that's a good reason not to be taking pictures. :lol: As for the loupe, can't comment. Have been meaning to buy one, but never got to. :D
 

pancorjackhammer

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Waking this thread up - I did something stupid with this movement and unscrewed that damn screw to take the stem out.. now not able to put it back in .. sometimes it goes into winding mode sometimes time setting and the screw is just loose .. tried every angle and every depth of stem insertion to catch the screw but nothing... anyone can help me with this?