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I just did this on a TC using a very nice VR 3135 DW, but the process would be identical using a gen DW. On a 2824 you most likely will have to grind off the teeth from the DW, they get in the way of the movement calendar parts and the minute wheel cover plate screw and extension arm. On a 2836 there should be room to leave the teeth intact. Painter's tape works perfectly to protect the DW while grinding the teeth away, it comes off cleanly.
Height tolerances are close, but sanding down the existing DW and/or DWO to start with a bare metal base should work in most cases. Use 30 min slow cure epoxy, you will need a lot of time to get the DWO oriented perfectly. I always use the actual dial when doing this kind of work, there is no better substitute. The dial has to go on, check all dates, dial comes off, adjust DWO, dial goes on, repeat as necessary. It might take 12 - 15 iterations. Check your fingers (or glove/finger cot) after every adjustment to make sure you didn't pick up glue on them that then would get transferred back to the DW.
It's worth the effort.
Height tolerances are close, but sanding down the existing DW and/or DWO to start with a bare metal base should work in most cases. Use 30 min slow cure epoxy, you will need a lot of time to get the DWO oriented perfectly. I always use the actual dial when doing this kind of work, there is no better substitute. The dial has to go on, check all dates, dial comes off, adjust DWO, dial goes on, repeat as necessary. It might take 12 - 15 iterations. Check your fingers (or glove/finger cot) after every adjustment to make sure you didn't pick up glue on them that then would get transferred back to the DW.
It's worth the effort.
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