Factory identification: New to Rolex reps

[KJ2020]

JHF also used that clasp code, and did a lot of collaboration with OMF. In fact you can still find some listings written JH/OMF

JH fat boy Daytonas are in the exact same league as OMF, I have one of them as well.

https://trustytimewatch.io/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6&products_id=18052

Scroll to 1:30 in the video, and freeze it there for a clear view of the clasp code.

TWF is also a good factory for these entry level Daytonas, if that's what it ends up being. There is really not a lot of difference in any of these three.

If you find yourself liking the Daytona experience, Clean Factory is releasing some new models with the slim fully functional SA4130 in just a few days. There is enormous interest in them, the dials look very good.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/rolex-tudor-replicas/10345079-clean-4130-daytonas/page14

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...-factory-new-4130-daytona-dial-pictures-leaks

 

[Slanglican]

KJ2020 The EWF also has the 5NF too.. as 904L and my watch had 904L stickers.. they coulda been just that… stickers but who knows…

 

[KJ2020]

KJ2020 The EWF also has the 5NF too.. as 904L and my watch had 904L stickers.. they coulda been just that… stickers but who knows…

Can you post a side view pic?

 

[Slanglican]

this is 15mm

 

[Slanglican]

KJ2020 i talked to Li and he said they “say” it’s 904L but he just doesn’t really think it is based on the price point..

all I care about really is that the chronograph is aligned, works/resets the way it’s supposed to…

 

[jg3456]

bit off-topic, fwiw puretime just released "special" JF blue dial daytona (no chrono)...presumably new-old stock

 

[KJ2020]

this is 15mm

Yep definitely a fat boy bro. If your chrono arrives aligned perfectly it's not recommended to use it. Few people can resist running them at least once though. Look where my 9 subdial hours counter is in 3 of my 4 pics of my Noob blue dial. That's what can happen from "trying out" the chronos on a Daytona modded A7750. Lucky for me the flaw that manifested is a minor one, not affecting the normal time keeping of the watch, which some flaws can do. After resetting the chrono hands, that hours counter hand "creeps" to a little after 3 hours and then stops. It's an easy fix, I just need to repress that subdial hand to 12. Subsequent chrono resets would then presumably reset that subdial hand to a little before 9 and then it should creep back to 12. When I get around to fixing it I don't plan on testing that though. I'll just leave well enough alone, as I've done on other fat boys I have. I don't even use the chronos on the 4130s I have except maybe once upon initial acquisition. I had intended to swap that blue dial into a 4130 Noob so I haven't been in a rush to fix the minor flaw. I now have so many projects going and my Daytona dial and bezel swapping is a huge matrix of switcheroos that I haven't gotten to any of it yet. Ah, the thrill of it all...

 

[Slanglican]

Yep definitely a fat boy bro. If your chrono arrives aligned perfectly it's not recommended to use it. Few people can resist running them at least once though. Look where my 9 subdial hours counter is in 3 of my 4 pics of my Noob blue dial. That's what can happen from "trying out" the chronos on a Daytona modded A7750. Lucky for me the flaw that manifested is a minor one, not affecting the normal time keeping of the watch, which some flaws can do. After resetting the chrono hands, that hours counter hand "creeps" to a little after 3 hours and then stops. It's an easy fix, I just need to repress that subdial hand to 12. Subsequent chrono resets would then presumably reset that subdial hand to a little before 9 and then it should creep back to 12. When I get around to fixing it I don't plan on testing that though. I'll just leave well enough alone, as I've done on other fat boys I have. I don't even use the chronos on the 4130s I have except maybe once upon initial acquisition. I had intended to swap that blue dial into a 4130 Noob so I haven't been in a rush to fix the minor flaw. I now have so many projects going and my Daytona dial and bezel swapping is a huge matrix of switcheroos that I haven't gotten to any of it yet. Ah, the thrill of it all...

Yea, I have had a few A7750/3 where the hour counter runs constantly…

to be totally honest, basically every two I’ve had has been A7750 and out of the 15 or so I’ve had, I think I’ve only had a couple have serious problems. One, the minute counter never worked from when it arrived. Only other issue I’ve had is just not resetting back to 12am.. and only on one of those was it not an easy fixable thing.
ive messed up a lot of A7750’s but it was user error and not the fault of the movement really.

Man, 5 or 6 of them that I’ve had were freaking chronograph workhorses and run perfectly. BP, JF especially. “Unknown factory” on a navitimer.. The GF was okay, but a bit more hit and Miss than the JF or BP..

Biggest issues I’ve had with 7750’s isn’t the chronograph, but the winding mechanism.. I’ve had a handful of them break down…

I guess my overall point is that I think the 7750 chrono issue is, well, for the most part from my experience/evidence, a non-issue and they usually work just fine…

Crossing my fingers the Daytona is the same, Bc one thing I can say for sure is that the chronograph will be used often.. (not 12 hours straight or anything)

 

[BlueLineFarmer]

Yep definitely a fat boy bro. If your chrono arrives aligned perfectly it's not recommended to use it. Few people can resist running them at least once though. Look where my 9 subdial hours counter is in 3 of my 4 pics of my Noob blue dial. That's what can happen from "trying out" the chronos on a Daytona modded A7750. Lucky for me the flaw that manifested is a minor one, not affecting the normal time keeping of the watch, which some flaws can do. After resetting the chrono hands, that hours counter hand "creeps" to a little after 3 hours and then stops. It's an easy fix, I just need to repress that subdial hand to 12. Subsequent chrono resets would then presumably reset that subdial hand to a little before 9 and then it should creep back to 12. When I get around to fixing it I don't plan on testing that though. I'll just leave well enough alone, as I've done on other fat boys I have. I don't even use the chronos on the 4130s I have except maybe once upon initial acquisition. I had intended to swap that blue dial into a 4130 Noob so I haven't been in a rush to fix the minor flaw. I now have so many projects going and my Daytona dial and bezel swapping is a huge matrix of switcheroos that I haven't gotten to any of it yet. Ah, the thrill of it all...

KJ2020 you are the resident RWI rep Rolex expert and modder.

I am looking for a "fat" rep Rolex case for a franken Daytona 16500 project with chrono seconds at sub dial 9.

In order for a Swiss ETA movement with chrono seconds at 9 I need a "fat" case that is at least 14 mm thick for the movement to fit in as the 166500 rep cases are too "thin" for the Swiss movement to work. Would this "fat boy" case work for my franken 16500 project.

I currently have a WTB for a rep Rolex 16500 which was well known for the movement blowing up.

 

[p0pperini]

Crossing my fingers the Daytona is the same, Bc one thing I can say for sure is that the chronograph will be used often.. (not 12 hours straight or anything)

I’m curious… can I ask why you feel the need to risk it, when the fragility of mechanical watch chronos is so widely reported?

It seems like an unnecessary risk, when you’ve almost certainly got a precision digital timing device in your pocket (unless you really are old school and refuse to carry a smartphone!).

 

[KJ2020]

KJ2020 you are the resident RWI rep Rolex expert and modder.

I am looking for a "fat" rep Rolex case for a franken Daytona 16500 project with chrono seconds at sub dial 9.

In order for a Swiss ETA movement with chrono seconds at 9 I need a "fat" case that is at least 14 mm thick for the movement to fit in as the 166500 rep cases are too "thin" for the Swiss movement to work. Would this "fat boy" case work for my franken 16500 project.

I currently have a WTB for a rep Rolex 16500 which was well known for the movement blowing up.

Well that's an interesting project. I've never tried to put a gen ETA 7750/3 movement in a rep case but I think it could work. You could find out easily enough - some of these fat boy reps are available under $300 now. Or pick one up M2M maybe a dead one. If you bought a new one it could be flipped at little cost when done with it. Take the rep movement out and try the gen for fit. The rehaut opening is also something you need to check vs your dial size, as there can be issues there. And will the subdial holes on your dial line up with the ETA pinions.

 

[BlueLineFarmer]

Well that's an interesting project. I've never tried to put a gen ETA 7750/3 movement in a rep case but I think it could work. You could find out easily enough - some of these fat boy reps are available under $300 now. Or pick one up M2M maybe a dead one. Ic you bought a new one it could be flipped at little cost when done with it. Take the rep movement out and try the gen for fit. The rehaut opening is also something you need to check vs your dial size, as there can be issues there. And will the subdial holes on your dial line up with the ETA pinions.

I have 2 franken 16500 Daytona's with Swiss ETA movement with chrono seconds at 9 with gen dials and both required "fat boy" rep Rolex daytona cases. Working on the third and that is why I have WTB posted for a 16500 rep Daytona which was well known for the bomb movement. Found one on RWI for about $100 in July 2021 which is being used for a current project.