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DIY Build Your Own Movement Analyzer (Timing Machine) For Under $30!

intheshadows

Active Member
30/8/12
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Finally got around to finishing up following this tutorial. Initially I finished the setup but screwed up bigtime as I didnt check to see if my laptop had a mic input (it didnt, lol). I had to order a cheapie USB audio device with a mic input ($8).

My costs for all the parts were a little higher (I guess due to my location), and I spent a bit more because I couldnt track down an old computer mic to get that mono cable and ended up just getting a $6 one from radio shack. The piezo buzzer I bought was the same part number as the OP, but it was WAY more difficult to get out because of the way it was glued in there (I suppose its a newer design to prevent the piezo element from bending). It did come out though!

Here is my setup
cem8.jpg


Anyway, this thing is awesome as far as sensitivity! It can read my watch just by sitting the fully cased watch on the piezo element right on my desk next to me in a semi-noisy office. No way any regular mic can do that.

I'm still trying to figure out all the tweaks in that eTimer program, as the program has evolved slightly since this original post. There is also a lift angle setting next to the vph which is set at 52 degrees by default. If I change the lift angle to what matches my movement, the reading is way off as far as s/d, so I've been leaving it at 52.

This project was simple, fun, and is going to prove quite useful for anybody that cares about their watch telling the correct time!
 

tracy

Getting To Know The Place
15/9/12
36
0
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loved the write up and I'm giving it a go but I have a question on the amp and plugs. I have a headphone mini amp which will really kick the volume up, but it uses 3.5 mm plugs and a 3.5 mm plug into the computer. I suspect this is stereo. Your write up specified mono- is stereo a non-starter?
 

intheshadows

Active Member
30/8/12
456
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0
loved the write up and I'm giving it a go but I have a question on the amp and plugs. I have a headphone mini amp which will really kick the volume up, but it uses 3.5 mm plugs and a 3.5 mm plug into the computer. I suspect this is stereo. Your write up specified mono- is stereo a non-starter?

The input into the PC is stereo, but the piezo element needs a mono cable with connector from what I can understand.
 

tracy

Getting To Know The Place
15/9/12
36
0
6
thanks- If I discover different, I'll put a note here but for now I'll source the smaller mono plug.
 

tracy

Getting To Know The Place
15/9/12
36
0
6
a Tip of the Cap to the Author

I was quite enthused to read about this build and ultimately, followed the directions faithfully. As Winston Churchill famously said "Americans will always do the right thing, after they've tried everything else". That holds true for me too. I tried to used a headphone amp to power up the sound from my watch- no good. Hustled down to Radio Shack for the $15.00 part. Then I tried to use a stereo cable to connect it all together- no good at all. I defaulted back to the specific instructions and used an old microphone I had on hand and was rewarded with the ticking sound I was looking for.
I've got my hands full using the movement analyzer software now- I'd love to see the NSA give this software a go. I believe they would finally throw in the towel and determine it's too complex to them to decipher. However, I'm still in the discovery stage and maybe this too will finally be revealed once the scales fall from my eyes, as Bertie Wooster would say. Tested a cheapo Tag and next on the docket- a nice Planet Ocean from Hont Watch.
 

intheshadows

Active Member
30/8/12
456
0
0
Hey tracy good job man at least you got to that point!

I remember using a stereo cable for a mono application in the past and what happened was the signal was low low low to the point it wasnt useful. If you amped it, it was too much noise, but you could still get the waveform was there. I think the same thing is happening here so hence the mono cable.

Also, you may need to play around with the positioning of the movement on the piezo element or play with the software based amplifiers on your sound card for the mic. You want the peaks of the signal to almost touch the tops an bottoms of the graph on audacity with as low background noise as possible. It took me a whole night of frustration before I figured out my signal wasnt good enough until I moved the piezo around. After that, I was able to get nice clear readings from the software.

After pulling my hair out and wasting hours on the eTimer program, I wanted to find a real time solution without having to keep doing the recording over and over. Dont get me wrong, I still do the recording to confirm at the end, but I found another piece of software that is more helpful if you are adjusting the timing.

The software is called Biburo, and I cant find the stupid link now! Anyway, it will let you visualize in real-time like a timegrapher. If two distinct lines show up on the graph, then you have a beat error problem. If the line is sloping upwards, its moving too fast. Sloping downwards, too slow, etc. After I get the movement looking reasonably flat on this graph, I'll record it and throw it back into the eTimer program to confirm the results. Biburo also tells you beat error and s/d error.

Hope that helps!
 

Nanook65

I'm Pretty Popular
3/12/16
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I am definitely going to make myself one of these. Genius idea!