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Decal printed dial

deadpan

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1/6/19
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Over the horizon
What I meant was which endlink code/reference? 580s? I've only seen the correct 6538 58 and 80 end links from VN sellers. Been looking for a cheaper alternative that still fits well, but I've seen nothing about how any of the 3 digit end links fit.

On yes, I have 580 end links on it now, they do fit well, but are not correct for this model.

Mine are 455b end links. Probably incorrect for this ref.? But fit to my liking on the Silix case.
 
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Briteling

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28/1/19
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5508 build finished...

Silver depth, completely redrawn design, sulphuric salt aged hands. Tried to make it look like a 'survivor' though...

IMG-20200601-174415.jpg
 

manodeoro

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Looks pretty! Is it orange or is that just the pic?

It's definitely orange as a SUB 300 T should be ... unless it's black with white printings of course ...


Next one could be a "SUB 300" only ... no "T" but a slightly different Aqualung picto ...
Making the tiny yelllow circle (about 6mm) behind that picto will be sort of "acrobatic" ... but I'm a daredevil so I like funny challenges ...

06-SUB-300-NO-T.jpg
 
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Briteling

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You could just print all the colors and slap it on to a stainless steel dial blank, including the yellow details.
 
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manodeoro

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You could just print all the colors and slap it on to a stainless steel dial blank, including the yellow details.

It'll probably easier to :
- prepare a "blank" dial colored with orange and yellow
- print the black dial design apart from the aqualung picto ... positionned with center hole and date window
- print the black aqualung picto separately ... juste have to center with the yellow circle
 

manodeoro

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Yes may be. Or make two decal designs and stack them, first yellow and orange, then black...

I have already tried only orange but the laser ink is not opaque enough ... so orange and yellow will be solvant spray paint
 

Briteling

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Then you either have a poor printer, wrong settings, both or don't know exactly how to trick it in to doing that. The settings, and chosen colors are mixed in the printer by just a few base colors, this means that it isn't always the result you want. By layering thoigh, you can make a dial very opaque. You should know I make only maybe 10% rep dials, the rest is not and I have made a lot of very colorful dials and it took me some experimenting, but the result at this point is pretty breathtaking. In the light of this forum being a rep forum I would not like to post any pictures of my other projects here.
 
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Briteling

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I can imagine if you start with a full yellow, then make what you want orange in red, then as final layer use only black... That is probably gonna get you a very deeeeeeep orange.
 
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manodeoro

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I can imagine if you start with a full yellow, then make what you want orange in red, then as final layer use only black... That is probably gonna get you a very deeeeeeep orange.
In fact I prefer to have the dial painted first then the decal applied as it gives a little more sharpness to the black parts ...
Not that it gives a real 3D effect but the difference is noticeable IMHO ...
Next step should be pad-printing I suppose so it sounds good to me to get used to the multiple steps method ...firstly orange / secondly yellow / thirdly black ...
 
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Briteling

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The limitation there though is that many paints can't handle heat very well, and decal is by far smoother, sharper and stronger when it is baked on.