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Clone 2892-A2 Game over

Hec

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I bought a cheap set on Ali.
at first this was just to mod my Vostok. maybe I will upgrade in the future

for dial protection, you don't really need a special thing. just a small plastic bag is enough

you can see on this video. it is even better as it also protects the hands
Also, use a presto tool to remove the hands.

finally, buy a metal movement holder

don't use those crap plastic adjustable ones
Thanks for all like always!

This week I will practice with my old Hublot and other Watches!
 
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HootschiGootschi

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According measurements are different 25,6 - 3,6 cm 2892-a2 and PT5000 25,6 and 4,6 cm.

Is my doubt
This is correct.
even while both are 11.5 ligne movements, they are different in height (3,6 vs 4.6mm) and stem height (1,5 vs 1,8mm)

I would suggest to stick with 2892 as replacement.

Note:
i would recommend to try a movement replacement at a watch that you may drop into the waste bin, before you do it here.
 
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Hec

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This is correct.
even while both are 11.5 ligne movements, they are different in height (3,6 vs 4.6mm) and stem height (1,5 vs 1,8mm)

I would suggest to stick with 2892 as replacement.

Note:
i would recommend to try a movement replacement at a watch that you may drop into the waste bin, before you do it here.
Yes of course!
I will do it that way. I have two replicas from the years 2009-2010 of low quality, both working...

I will try to do the whole process, remove the stem, separate the movement dial, clean the dial and glass... and then assemble everything, I need practice.
 

Hec

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Nobody said it was easy, I'm practising with an old Fake gmt, and when I take the stem out there's no way to put it back in. I think it's such a bad copy that it has a spring in it that makes it impossible to put the stem back on.

Any ideas? The dial seems to be welded to the movement so I won't be able to detach-attach the dial...

2nd pic is Stem’s place…

Cheers!

 

Hec

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do you know the movement?
Any idea..

There is also no mark or signature... removing the stem was easy, I try to put it back and there is like a stop, I press the same place I had pressed to remove it and nothing... it's strange.
 

Hec

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I was able to, it seems that it has a retained spring....

The bad thing is that I won't be able to separate the dial to practice, and that part worries me when I have to change the movement in the IWC.

 

Karbon74

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depending on the movement, there are sometimes little hooks that lock the dial in place.

unscrew the rotor. this will allow a better view of the movement
 
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Hec

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depending on the movement, there are sometimes little hooks that lock the dial in place.

unscrew the rotor. this will allow a better view of the movement
I have tried to unscrew the rotor but I can barely make contact with the screw (it's kind of sunk in), any advice?
 

Hec

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Finally following your advice.. this is the movement without rotor
 

HootschiGootschi

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Is that the movement you wanted to use to „learn“ at, before trying with the 2892?
Then do it & take the risk to break things.
(or do you expect to get a step by step walk through guide?)

the movement on that pics might be another kind of Asian eta clone, but I’m not sure based on what I can see.
Maybe the dial feet clamps on the Mainplate are not directly visible as the are covered by bridges.
You may search for them

HPoIat.jpeg

HPooJF.jpeg


If you don’t find something there then best of luck
 

Hec

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I just want to practice, I've never done this before and I want to learn. This watch is an old fake 13-14 years old, I don't care if it breaks.

At the moment I just want to try to remove stem, put, put and remove hands, basically what I have to do to change the watch to the ETA 2892...

I found the problem with the stem, it's very hard to fit it every time you remove it or it doesn't fit at all. I will have to practice with another old watch the stem part.
 

Karbon74

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I got that problem when i messed the keyless works. your movement is probably very dry.

practicing the hands setting is the right thing to do. Did you also follow the instructions for having the date flip at the right time?
 

Hec

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I got that problem when i messed the keyless works. your movement is probably very dry.

practicing the hands setting is the right thing to do. Did you also follow the instructions for having the date flip at the right time?
I followed the video you posted (YouTube Lume Shot). I removed the stem, took out the movement, set the hands to 12:00, removed them. Remind me about the date flip, thanks.
 
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Slugger

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for dial protection, you don't really need a special thing. just a small plastic bag is enough

Plastic bag ripped open so it’s only a single thickness. That’s what I use but it’s also easy to make on just like the Bergeon one. Cut a notch in a think piece of plastic and voila!
you can see on this video. it is even better as it also protects the hands

Excellent point!


Personally, I’m not a fan of the cheap Presto removers. They tend to not be so precise and, when I’ve used them, things get bent and broken. I‘ve never had a problem with hand levers. The flat edge (no notch) ones are what works best for me. If you get a cheap pair of levers, you may find the tips are too thick and/or unpolished. Thick hands are easily rectified but don’t forget to polish them smooth.


Hell yes! A movement holder is like a pair of shoes. If you have cheap ones that don’t fit you won’t get far before you regret it.
 
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Karbon74

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Is that the movement you wanted to use to „learn“ at, before trying with the 2892?
Then do it & take the risk to break things.
(or do you expect to get a step by step walk through guide?)

the movement on that pics might be another kind of Asian eta clone, but I’m not sure based on what I can see.
Maybe the dial feet clamps on the Mainplate are not directly visible as the are covered by bridges.
You may search for them

HPoIat.jpeg

HPooJF.jpeg


If you don’t find something there then best of luck
The pic OP made of his movement stumped me to. it sort of looks like an ETA clone but the regulating lever instead of the screw is weird.

It also looks like a bastardized clone of a Miyota
 
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Hec

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Plastic bag ripped open so it’s only a single thickness. That’s what I use but it’s also easy to make on just like the Bergeon one. Cut a notch in a think piece of plastic and voila!


Excellent point!



Personally, I’m not a fan of the cheap Presto removers. They tend to not be so precise and, when I’ve used them, things get bent and broken. I‘ve never had a problem with hand levers. The flat edge (no notch) ones are what works best for me. If you get a cheap pair of levers, you may find the tips are too thick and/or unpolished. Thick hands are easily rectified but don’t forget to polish them smooth.



Hell yes! A movement holder is like a pair of shoes. If you have cheap ones that don’t fit you won’t get far before you regret it.
What hand levers do you use? Today I have used Presto and not good sensations.

What do you think about these:
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Thanks!