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Can you help me narrow in on a PAM Luminor

Justin123

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2/8/22
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I came to the Panerai section because I really love the look of the Panerai watches and naively thought I can identify the model I want.

But now after trying to read and absorb all of the excellent reviews, I am more confused than enlightened. There are so many varieties! I thought the "Reference PAM REVIEW-GUIDE" would help but part III section B, where watches are grouped by type, does not load the images.

BUT... I can describe what I want:


I love the classic black dial with no seconds hand inset or complications.
I love the crisp cut out sandwich dials with very yellow looking numbers and indicators and hands.
I like the dials with four numbers and the rest indicators
I like the stainless steel cases
I like the cases that have curved off or rounded off corners
I like big 44 mm dials.
I like the really classic locking mechanism over the winder
I like models that have logos/names under the 12-o clock with nothing down the bottom near the 6.

Essentially I think I am seeking some sort of retro looking base Luminor.

There are clearly many PAM experts here. I would appreciate it if an expert could suggest some model numbers to me, that I could go and investigate further.

(I haven't even started on factories or straps yet ---- It's always fun to find a new hobby!)
 
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Justin123

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It could be the PAM372 and PAM557. Am I getting close. Are there others?
 

superspark69

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these depend on how big you want, you previously said you liked the 44mm but these are the larger 47mm.

If you are starting out with panerai maybe a 44mm 112 or 176 . these are the perfect starting points in my opinion and meet the criteria you put previously, the 176 is titanium though but certainly should not be overlooked.
 
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kramerica72

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The zero is a classic model as well, and ticks most boxes, aside from the logo above 6... and sandwich (sorry--I guess almost all boxes).
 
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Justin123

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Thanks for those suggestions.

Can I ask, why do some dials have an aged yellow looking lume, and others have a more modern looking whitish slightly yellow lume?

Is it a matter of how old the watch is? Or do some use a different lume?

I prefer the aged yellow look.
 

Justin123

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OMG I think I just saw the fiddy... so it has a small seconds hand, but I love the domed shape!
 
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KOT1917

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Hello.

Given everything you've listed, plus current availability, check out HWF's PAM914. It's not perfect, but it's a good place to start. Then you will begin to understand what you like and don’t like about design, what flaws bother you and what don’t. This is not a bad budget travel start.
 
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Justin123

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Hello.

Given everything you've listed, plus current availability, check out HWF's PAM914. It's not perfect, but it's a good place to start. Then you will begin to understand what you like and don’t like about design, what flaws bother you and what don’t. This is not a bad budget travel start.
That's a top suggestion KOT1917. Because I had been pulling my hair out researching this and had independently come to the same conclusion. The problem was, the watch that fits my description is only available in a 47mm. But the PAM 914 is very close at 44 mm. My next move was to check out the factories to see if there was a good rep. I assume HWF is a maker so I will start there.

Thanks
 

KOT1917

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I'm glad I was able to get to the point. Honestly, the equation isn't that hard when you want a 44mm base with a patinated sandwich.
To simplify things, HWFs are the only ones that made this model.

There are a number of flaws, in the engraving of the caseback, in the thickness of the cutouts of the sandwich, but as I mentioned, this is just my suggestion of where to start.
 

Justin123

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Looked at jtime that has the 914 listed. Looks like a nice watch. I'm not sure how worried I am about the minor flaws... or maybe I'm just still a noob... so I will check out the most highly recommended reps first.
 

papabear244

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17/11/20
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I suggest you take your time. I went thru that phase too (Probably every Pam fan) and you’d be surprised how quickly your preference can change.
 
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Justin123

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I suggest you take your time. I went thru that phase too (Probably every Pam fan) and you’d be surprised how quickly your preference can change.
But isn't there something special about the unadorned, uncomplicated base luminor design?
 

papabear244

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Yes there is. But have you seen the 390? It’s like the 112 but with rose gold hands and dark brown dial.
 

papabear244

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At first I wasn't a fan of brown dials, but there is a subtle elegance. And a nod to history.