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Best 14060 available ?
- Thread starter johnlogan
- Start date
From what I have read, all of the replica 14060 shares the same case as the 16610 (which isn't correct - the gen 14060 has slightly different dimensions to the gen 16610)
Considering that the 14060 and 16610 looks so similar, rep factories have focused their attention entirely on the 16610 case. For the occasional 14060 demand, rep factories would simply slap a 14060 no-date dial onto a 16610 case and sell it as a 14060
I always thought the 14060 was so damn cool... especially the later 14060m COSC series: a modern Rolex watch with rehaut engravings AND lug holes with hollow end links... that was truly an unique piece.
I guess an accurate 14060 replica is unobtainable - the best way would be to go gen or go for a 5513/5512
Considering that the 14060 and 16610 looks so similar, rep factories have focused their attention entirely on the 16610 case. For the occasional 14060 demand, rep factories would simply slap a 14060 no-date dial onto a 16610 case and sell it as a 14060
I always thought the 14060 was so damn cool... especially the later 14060m COSC series: a modern Rolex watch with rehaut engravings AND lug holes with hollow end links... that was truly an unique piece.
I guess an accurate 14060 replica is unobtainable - the best way would be to go gen or go for a 5513/5512
I never understood why there isn't a good rep of this watch as it should be repped relatively easier (compared to the 6 digit ones or other more complicated Rollies).
Some would say that bc it won't sell as much but I am not buying it. Factories have been making reps of some brands that most average buyers haven't even heard of and a good no date will definitely sell way more than a not widely known JLC or Franck M rep
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Some would say that bc it won't sell as much but I am not buying it. Factories have been making reps of some brands that most average buyers haven't even heard of and a good no date will definitely sell way more than a not widely known JLC or Franck M rep
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- 18/12/15
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LF are also known for their 16610.. and apparently they aren't great.
The link you have provided says:
"Crystal: Dome Plexi Plastic Crystal" --------> RED FLAGS EVERYWHERE
The watch itself has major flaws that would annoy me.. I won't pay $238 for it:
1. Rehaut is ultra wokky (like those original noobmariners 16610 from nearly a decade ago) and the rehaut wokky-ness is worse than the JF 16610 LV
2. Dome plastic crystal on a 14060m?!?!?!? WTF it's like they aren't even trying to replicate the 14060 faithfully (gen has sapphire crystal.. this mistake is absolutely unforgivable)
3. The dial font is really bad
Bro I rather you buy a BP Miyota 16610 for a bit more cash.. seriously the BP one is miles ahead from that 14060
http://chazingtime.co/product/submariner-bp-maker-16610-black-dial-ss-bracelet-a3135/
I love how clean and simple the earlier 14060 dial is.. No COSC label and stuff.. just like the 5513 but with a modern appeal
I wouldn't mind owning a gen one day, but I am peoccupied with the 16610/16613 for now
You guys dodged a bullet, that rehaut and dome plexi crystal would be an instant tell lollll
Godkiller, have any thoughts on this one:
http://www.ttw-138.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=601
I get a feeling that the rehaut looks wokky already?
I don't feel that this watch worth $328.. totally not worth it... to give you an idea of how expensive this watch is for inferior rep quality.. $368 can buy you the uber super-rep 114300 Oyster Perpetual by JF (and it has a SH3132 movement that is nearly 1:1 like gen)
For price/quality comparison (to show you how relatively inferior and expensive this 14060 is)...
- BP 16610 with Miyota 9015 movement = $298 http://chazingtime.co/product/submariner-bp-maker-16610-black-dial-ss-bracelet-a3135/... but the bezel assembly is not gen-spec for modding https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/best-non-tc-16610.315113/page-2
- BP 16610 with SA3135 movement = $308 http://chazingtime.co/product/subma...on-black-dial-black-bezel-ss-bracelet-sa3135/.. the bezel asembly for this may also not be gen spec for modding.. I haven't seen one of these being dissected yet
- JF 114300 with SH3132 $368 http://chazingtime.co/product/oyste...11-best-edition-gray-dial-ss-bracelet-sa3132/ (i personally, and so as many others here, find that this is the best Replica Rolex ever made. It even surpasses TC in terms of having a near 1:1 movement)
- JF 16610 LV with SH3135 $408 (features the yuki 3135 movement, but has wokky rehaut and non-gen crystal retaining bezel.. but other than that it is extremely good) http://chazingtime.co/product/subma...1-best-edition-black-dial-ss-bracelet-sh3135/
The BP 16610 with Miyota 9015 have good reviews here and they are better in terms of quality than that $328 14060. Therefore I find that 14060 for $328 is overpriced. But the only disadvantage of the BP 16610 with Miyota is that it doesn't have a gen-spec bezel assembly so upgrading options are limited without significant mods.
Another thing to be aware is that this 14060 is from an unknown factory because it is not stated. Therefore quality can vary significantly from the usual big makers
- 13/10/16
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All the 14060 reps I have seen on TDs sites are way too much expensive for such innacurate Reps.
An option is to start from an old 16610 case, two 16610 dials (damaged dials is better cause you will throw the dial plates to the bin), a 16610 handset and a 21J movement :
1 - rework the case to a more "14060-like" shape and drill the lugs
2 - pull the indexes off the dials, keep those you need, get the lume off and relume with a nice faded cream color (relume the hands and the pearl at the same time)
3 - build a dial from a sanded blank no-date dial (or a handmade copper dial plate) ... black print on a white decal paper + 4 thin coats of varnish
4 - glue the indexes on the finished dial ... just avoid coffee before that, some Islay would be better for steady hands
5 - put all the parts together
6 - put a nice vintage leather strap on
7 - enjoy
Apart from sourcing the cheap parts (if you dont already have those in your drawers) it will ask just a few hours of your time.
That watch will be full of flaws but very cool and possibly more "genlike" than all the "already bad built" 14060s you can buy at the moment.
Plus it will be looowwww budget, which will be decent for such an innacurate Rep.
FIY ... I've just created a WTB to get the indexes I need to build mine :hehehe:
And for those who could have some big doubts about the dial build using white decal paper (and a good printer) here are some pics of my 16800 Comex build (white decal dial).
That was my first build since I joined the RepWorld and RWI last october (I still have to create a thread about that) and it still keeps good time on the wrist of the owner (I'll let you decide if he's or not a "happy one").
All the 14060 reps I have seen on TDs sites are way too much expensive for such innacurate Reps.
An option is to start from an old 16610 case, two 16610 dials (damaged dials is better cause you will throw the dial plates to the bin), a 16610 handset and a 21J movement :
1 - rework the case to a more "14060-like" shape and drill the lugs
2 - pull the indexes off the dials, keep those you need, get the lume off and relume with a nice faded cream color (relume the hands and the pearl at the same time)
3 - build a dial from a sanded blank no-date dial (or a handmade copper dial plate) ... black print on a white decal paper + 4 thin coats of varnish
4 - glue the indexes on the finished dial ... just avoid coffee before that, some Islay would be better for steady hands
5 - put all the parts together
6 - put a nice vintage leather strap on
7 - enjoy
Apart from sourcing the cheap parts (if you dont already have those in your drawers) it will ask just a few hours of your time.
That watch will be full of flaws but very cool and possibly more "genlike" than all the "already bad built" 14060s you can buy at the moment.
Plus it will be looowwww budget, which will be decent for such an innacurate Rep.
FIY ... I've just created a WTB to get the indexes I need to build mine :hehehe:
And for those who could have some big doubts about the dial build using white decal paper (and a good printer) here are some pics of my 16800 Comex build (white decal dial).
That was my first build since I joined the RepWorld and RWI last october (I still have to create a thread about that) and it still keeps good time on the wrist of the owner (I'll let you decide if he's or not a "happy one").
haha building a 14060 dial from scratch would be really badass!
dial printing is very tricky
i have thought about printing dials on decal paper but the DPI of my printer isn't good enough, and I worry about using the wrong lacquer/varnish spray - might be bad for the movement if the lacquer isn't good enough and starts to flake
by the way, what hands did you use for your 16610 build?
i love how you bought a cheapie 16610 and converted it into something that is so nice like that
- 13/10/16
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haha building a 14060 dial from scratch would be really badass!
dial printing is very tricky
i have thought about printing dials on decal paper but the DPI of my printer isn't good enough, and I worry about using the wrong lacquer/varnish spray - might be bad for the movement if the lacquer isn't good enough and starts to flake
by the way, what hands did you use for your 16610 build?
i love how you bought a cheapie 16610 and converted it into something that is so nice like that
Base watch is a stock BP I got cheap for 135 $ ... the only parts I've added are a 93150 bracelet + 580 endlinks (sold the 93250 ...stupid me) and 2mm bars ... all in all about 200 $.
I drilled the lugs from scratch and thinned them a little, reworked the CGs and chamfered the lugs.
The hands are stock.
I pull off the indexes (that are very nice on the BPs IMHO), sanded the dial, etc ... same mod that I'll do for the 14060.
I'll give same more details in a specific thread.
The fun thing is that I had never modded a watch before (I started just 4 months after joining here) so I learned at the same time that I did the work.
There has been harsh moments, like when I discovered how shitty is the BP bezel construction just while I popped it off [emoji33], and very nice moments when printed my first dial and discovered how good was my "SWISS - T<25" (stock dial "SWIIS MADE").
All in all it took me about 100 hours but I could redo it muck quicker now.
BTW ... I still love low budget projects but I'm slowly changing.
I've just began a Tudor 7928 project that will get a DIY Gen specs gilt dial (I love building those shinny dials) and possibly a C390 Tudor movement.
At least the case will be reworked so that it can take a gen movement the day I find "the good one".
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- 13/10/16
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WOW !!! I like that one :clap_1:
@innocenti ... I dont know if you have the tools and skills to do what I'll ask there but I really hope so
Would you please :
1 - open that beauty
2 - get the movement off
3 - take off the the bezel (complete I mean : bezel ring/washer/retaining ring)
4 - take off the crystal
5 - measure all the dimensions needed to rep that case and bezel
If you're OK to do that I can send you some drawings so that you'll only have to note the dimensions on it.
BTW ... I KNOW I'm crazy asking that but I ask nevertheless:hehehe:
This will likely be my first gen Rolex. I've been hunting a 1998/99 A or U series or preferably a fairly priced 1989 5513 L series but they're thin on the ground.
innocenti
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