I don't see how an ARF is better than Noob besides the 904L. Just got my Noob v2 in and it's spectacular! Rose gold and Ceramic white. I'll buy more if Noob upgrades to 904L but I don't see any reason for going ARF to get thicker watch with non-working chrono. Unless they get 4130 I don't see the point?
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ARF just launched the 116500 V2, a day after Noob launched their V2 of it, what are your opinions?
- Thread starter ywg
- Start date
- 15/3/06
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And you still call this guy a friend?! That’s wrong as well..
- 25/3/17
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Dear Alvin how are you, Master?
You are the number 1!!!
Noob dials (SS version 500 and 520) are completely wrong, or not?
- 3/7/17
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More so an acquaintance, he cleaned and lubed my OP's SH3132 for free. I respect him for that, judging on how friendly he is I hope he was joking.
The dial is not perfect but for a $600 rep with WORKIG chronograph like gen you cannot ask for more. I’ve seen plenty of gen watches (some over a couple hundred thousand) in my circle of friends but there is NO WAY you could tell without holding the watch and a loupe. On the wrist it is next to impossible.
- 30/9/06
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yes, agree.
great answer, no teason to compare macro shots next to eachother. If you are so anal, buy gen for $20 k
Sent from iX
lcsrep11
Active Member
- 19/8/17
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guruTheSociety
Which noob in particular are you talking about because only the 116520 white face I would say fits into that category (even then the narrow bezel font will give it away). But most of all you don't need a loup to spot those horrendous fat subdials a mile off on all the other noob models.
To anyone who knows a daytona it looks off from a distance the sub dials change the whole look of the watch. These reps are good and getting better by the day but don't kid yourself there are still tells that can be seen with the eye to anyone who's into daytona's.
Which noob in particular are you talking about because only the 116520 white face I would say fits into that category (even then the narrow bezel font will give it away). But most of all you don't need a loup to spot those horrendous fat subdials a mile off on all the other noob models.
To anyone who knows a daytona it looks off from a distance the sub dials change the whole look of the watch. These reps are good and getting better by the day but don't kid yourself there are still tells that can be seen with the eye to anyone who's into daytona's.
If you'd rather have a wrong thickness ARF with horrible asian 7750 that doesn't work be my guest. I'm simply saying that these watches are insanely amazing at $600. My gawd the rep crowd has gone bonkers. If you think it's so bad just spend $20k for a gen and stop looking at these "horrendous" noob reps. In the mean time I've saved $50k by wearing these amazing pieces instead of throwing 35k out the window for a rose gold or $20k for a ceramic daytona.
100000% the expectations some of these people have are worse than gen owners. I've seen gens with misaliged rehaut / bezels etc. It's more of a headache discussing these things with some forum members.
lcsrep11
Active Member
- 19/8/17
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Calm down mate i'm not saying that one is better than the other nor did I even mention ARF Daytona. Im just telling you that you can tell on the wrist there is no getting away from it. Especially to anyone who knows daytona's which is pretty much anyone who is going to notice your watch or show interest in it.
On that note though, the fat subdials are definitely more noticeable on the face off the watch than 0.6mm extra thickness that the ARF has. That can be lost in pressure against a person skin. When i see someone with a daytona im immediately drawn to subdials. Guess it just depends if you trying to pull to it off as a real watch, it sounds like you are.
I don't need to spend $20k on a daytona I have one that i purchased for £6k back in 2011 and im very happy with it. As for throwing money out the window, really silly statement....hardly unless you lost the gen un insured your always going to get back what you paid for it, keep it long enough you will make money as have I.
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who cares what you paid 7 years ago. Now a 116520 is at least $13K USD and it wouldn't be a mint condition one. So that's a mute point. And if you're happy with GEN then of course, stick with GEN. Nothing is better than GEN.
I have a real gold 18k 6263 with valjoux 72 converted to rolex 727 that I built for $20k USD - it's as close to gen as you could get (save for buying a $180k USD gen). I love it and wouldn't trade it for anything. But if you're talking about 116500 Daytona for $18k vs a noob for $600 then I will taker the noob and save $17,400 lol.
If you can find me a 116520 for 6k euros I'll buy it immediately, but you cannot. So your point doesnt even make sense in this discussion.
lcsrep11
Active Member
- 19/8/17
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TheSociety
Your word's....."if you think it's so bad just spend $20k for a gen and stop looking at these "horrendous" noob reps."
My response was simply explaining why i won't be or need to spend $20k on a gen daytona. Nothing more. I never mentioned todays value or what they are priced at now. Nor did i say 6k euros for a 116520. I said £6 POUNDS and that was 2011 not todays price.
Maybe you should read posts before you blurt out your reply. I never asked about your $20k real gold fake watch, so this comment of yours is totally irrelevant. Like you say "who cares" spending $20k dollars on a replica watch when you could have a couple of gens is to me very bad investment and a crazy thing to do. But hey ho what every makes you happy dude im not here to judge.
Ill repeat again and my whole post was in response to this statement of yours.... "there is NO WAY you could tell without holding the watch and a loupe" This is wrong you tell by eye.
Your word's....."if you think it's so bad just spend $20k for a gen and stop looking at these "horrendous" noob reps."
My response was simply explaining why i won't be or need to spend $20k on a gen daytona. Nothing more. I never mentioned todays value or what they are priced at now. Nor did i say 6k euros for a 116520. I said £6 POUNDS and that was 2011 not todays price.
Maybe you should read posts before you blurt out your reply. I never asked about your $20k real gold fake watch, so this comment of yours is totally irrelevant. Like you say "who cares" spending $20k dollars on a replica watch when you could have a couple of gens is to me very bad investment and a crazy thing to do. But hey ho what every makes you happy dude im not here to judge.
Ill repeat again and my whole post was in response to this statement of yours.... "there is NO WAY you could tell without holding the watch and a loupe" This is wrong you tell by eye.
IMHO, as i said before and some user and owner of ARF and Noob I'm with me in this these are my personal conclusions about the "battle" Noob and ARF.
We assume that I own both and I can note with pleasure these differences:
Bracelet: the Noob bracelet is sharp (you have read it correctly) in the central part if you pass the fingers from the central polished mesh to the external ones you will feel like a "burr" as if it cuts. Mine has undergone a washing and lubrication treatment and he has improved because at the beginning it looked like a can this bracelet, a real shit. For years I had not seen a bracelet with such a poor existence. You can handle an ARF Datejust bracelet, or that of a current Sub Noob, you will find an abysmal difference. The closure is poor, many times badly finished and by hand. This bracelet absolutely needs a cleaning and a lubrication treatment because in normal conditions he sucks.
SEL: the SEL on the Noob are poor as hell. them are solid, but on one side, they have a play of 0.5mm or more. You can not find this on an ARF watches. And as the previous Noob version the SEL can be a bit outside of the profile of the lugs.
Bezel: the ring has the correct profile, like gen, but it is about 0.35 higher than gen and ARF. That ARF measures as gen 2.5, but has an incorrect profile compared to noob and respect to gen (a person must know what I'm talking about to notice, otherwise this will be difficult)
ARF has more fat numbers, with deeper incisions.
Between the two things I prefer? I personally prefer that ARF, because it has a more gen like font.
Crystal: glass is good on both, but the Noob has a matte white seal, and not with a shiny profile like gen. You can solve this problem by mounting a GEN seal and in this way you will give a better height to the glass.
Case: personally I find better the ARF case, which is less thick than the Noob and with the curvature of the lugs more gen like. The Noob case has a "straight" side profile and NOT curved, not as gen. This is totally wrong IMHO because this thing has always characterized the daytona in general.
rehaut: the rehaut is slightly higher on Noob, this too is a real shame. This effect can be partially solved by changing the seal to the glass
Dial: The Noob dial (all) is literally disgusting IMHO and I can not understand how some people say they are beautiful. The only one I think is a little more acceptable is the white version of 116520, but it is still wrong because it has a font with "fatty" subdial, just like all other color versions of the dials. All the other factories are far better equipped with those currently noob provides in these versions with SA4130.
The best dial 116520 that you can take? ARF, BP, Noob 7750, JF 7750. Personally I would aim at BP for black for example
Best dial version for 116500? ARF. Currently with the V2 white dial they have updated the printing of the 5 lines and subdial fonts.
But the version V2 noob 116500 white dial? It sucks anyway, the print has improved slightly, but far from being Gen like. Subdials are too fat.
So the Noob SA4130 summary is a clock that has focused everything on the costs of realization and development of the movement, leaving all the rest of the watch and hyper-economic levels, especially in the finishing and in the QC.
I personally was going to take a black chromalight dial 116520 which subsequently bought another user here of the forum. 800 euros including shipping. I had the opportunity to take another dial at about 900 euro, which I just saw that he took another user of the forum (bostyboy), but later I stopped a moment and I thought "what the hell?, Almost 1000 euro for a fucking dial on a Chinese watch ??)
So I started doing research, comparisons, and I started a cheap build, the first here on the forum on this watch that will include:
-116520 "V2" (or you can call as you like)
- gen crystal gasket
- BP 116520 dial Black CL
- ARF bezel (little shaved)
I've all parts in my hand except the dial that I've received QC pics today
Stay tuned for the result of this cheap project!
We assume that I own both and I can note with pleasure these differences:
Bracelet: the Noob bracelet is sharp (you have read it correctly) in the central part if you pass the fingers from the central polished mesh to the external ones you will feel like a "burr" as if it cuts. Mine has undergone a washing and lubrication treatment and he has improved because at the beginning it looked like a can this bracelet, a real shit. For years I had not seen a bracelet with such a poor existence. You can handle an ARF Datejust bracelet, or that of a current Sub Noob, you will find an abysmal difference. The closure is poor, many times badly finished and by hand. This bracelet absolutely needs a cleaning and a lubrication treatment because in normal conditions he sucks.
SEL: the SEL on the Noob are poor as hell. them are solid, but on one side, they have a play of 0.5mm or more. You can not find this on an ARF watches. And as the previous Noob version the SEL can be a bit outside of the profile of the lugs.
Bezel: the ring has the correct profile, like gen, but it is about 0.35 higher than gen and ARF. That ARF measures as gen 2.5, but has an incorrect profile compared to noob and respect to gen (a person must know what I'm talking about to notice, otherwise this will be difficult)
ARF has more fat numbers, with deeper incisions.
Between the two things I prefer? I personally prefer that ARF, because it has a more gen like font.
Crystal: glass is good on both, but the Noob has a matte white seal, and not with a shiny profile like gen. You can solve this problem by mounting a GEN seal and in this way you will give a better height to the glass.
Case: personally I find better the ARF case, which is less thick than the Noob and with the curvature of the lugs more gen like. The Noob case has a "straight" side profile and NOT curved, not as gen. This is totally wrong IMHO because this thing has always characterized the daytona in general.
rehaut: the rehaut is slightly higher on Noob, this too is a real shame. This effect can be partially solved by changing the seal to the glass
Dial: The Noob dial (all) is literally disgusting IMHO and I can not understand how some people say they are beautiful. The only one I think is a little more acceptable is the white version of 116520, but it is still wrong because it has a font with "fatty" subdial, just like all other color versions of the dials. All the other factories are far better equipped with those currently noob provides in these versions with SA4130.
The best dial 116520 that you can take? ARF, BP, Noob 7750, JF 7750. Personally I would aim at BP for black for example
Best dial version for 116500? ARF. Currently with the V2 white dial they have updated the printing of the 5 lines and subdial fonts.
But the version V2 noob 116500 white dial? It sucks anyway, the print has improved slightly, but far from being Gen like. Subdials are too fat.
So the Noob SA4130 summary is a clock that has focused everything on the costs of realization and development of the movement, leaving all the rest of the watch and hyper-economic levels, especially in the finishing and in the QC.
I personally was going to take a black chromalight dial 116520 which subsequently bought another user here of the forum. 800 euros including shipping. I had the opportunity to take another dial at about 900 euro, which I just saw that he took another user of the forum (bostyboy), but later I stopped a moment and I thought "what the hell?, Almost 1000 euro for a fucking dial on a Chinese watch ??)
So I started doing research, comparisons, and I started a cheap build, the first here on the forum on this watch that will include:
-116520 "V2" (or you can call as you like)
- gen crystal gasket
- BP 116520 dial Black CL
- ARF bezel (little shaved)
I've all parts in my hand except the dial that I've received QC pics today
Stay tuned for the result of this cheap project!
What? Did you even READ my reply? SMH... I said your comparison is dumb - and we are talking about 116500 here - still 18-20k on the market for a new one. So yes who cares if you spent 6000 GBP 7 YEARS ago? That doesn't have any relevance today. 1 You can't buy one for that price today and 2. it's not a 116500.
I still stand by my words: if you walk out into the city and see a 116500 on someones wrist, you cannot tell if it's a noob or a gen unless you happen to have a gen to compare it to. If you can tell, then good for you and you must be a watch God.
smh...
- 21/7/14
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IMHO, as i said before and some user and owner of ARF and Noob I'm with me in this these are my personal conclusions about the "battle" Noob and ARF.
We assume that I own both and I can note with pleasure these differences:
Bracelet: the Noob bracelet is sharp (you have read it correctly) in the central part if you pass the fingers from the central polished mesh to the external ones you will feel like a "burr" as if it cuts. Mine has undergone a washing and lubrication treatment and he has improved because at the beginning it looked like a can this bracelet, a real shit. For years I had not seen a bracelet with such a poor existence. You can handle an ARF Datejust bracelet, or that of a current Sub Noob, you will find an abysmal difference. The closure is poor, many times badly finished and by hand. This bracelet absolutely needs a cleaning and a lubrication treatment because in normal conditions he sucks.
SEL: the SEL on the Noob are poor as hell. them are solid, but on one side, they have a play of 0.5mm or more. You can not find this on an ARF watches. And as the previous Noob version the SEL can be a bit outside of the profile of the lugs.
Bezel: the ring has the correct profile, like gen, but it is about 0.35 higher than gen and ARF. That ARF measures as gen 2.5, but has an incorrect profile compared to noob and respect to gen (a person must know what I'm talking about to notice, otherwise this will be difficult)
ARF has more fat numbers, with deeper incisions.
Between the two things I prefer? I personally prefer that ARF, because it has a more gen like font.
Crystal: glass is good on both, but the Noob has a matte white seal, and not with a shiny profile like gen. You can solve this problem by mounting a GEN seal and in this way you will give a better height to the glass.
Case: personally I find better the ARF case, which is less thick than the Noob and with the curvature of the lugs more gen like. The Noob case has a "straight" side profile and NOT curved, not as gen. This is totally wrong IMHO because this thing has always characterized the daytona in general.
rehaut: the rehaut is slightly higher on Noob, this too is a real shame. This effect can be partially solved by changing the seal to the glass
Dial: The Noob dial (all) is literally disgusting IMHO and I can not understand how some people say they are beautiful. The only one I think is a little more acceptable is the white version of 116520, but it is still wrong because it has a font with "fatty" subdial, just like all other color versions of the dials. All the other factories are far better equipped with those currently noob provides in these versions with SA4130.
The best dial 116520 that you can take? ARF, BP, Noob 7750, JF 7750. Personally I would aim at BP for black for example
Best dial version for 116500? ARF. Currently with the V2 white dial they have updated the printing of the 5 lines and subdial fonts.
But the version V2 noob 116500 white dial? It sucks anyway, the print has improved slightly, but far from being Gen like. Subdials are too fat.
So the Noob SA4130 summary is a clock that has focused everything on the costs of realization and development of the movement, leaving all the rest of the watch and hyper-economic levels, especially in the finishing and in the QC.
I personally was going to take a black chromalight dial 116520 which subsequently bought another user here of the forum. 800 euros including shipping. I had the opportunity to take another dial at about 900 euro, which I just saw that he took another user of the forum (bostyboy), but later I stopped a moment and I thought "what the hell?, Almost 1000 euro for a fucking dial on a Chinese watch ??)
So I started doing research, comparisons, and I started a cheap build, the first here on the forum on this watch that will include:
-116520 "V2" (or you can call as you like)
- gen crystal gasket
- BP 116520 dial Black CL
- ARF bezel (little shaved)
I've all parts in my hand except the dial that I've received QC pics today
Stay tuned for the result of this cheap project!
Looking forward to the results. Did you order the BP dial seperatly or did you order the watch and remove the dial?
vcappp
I'm Pretty Popular
- 20/6/18
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How can he avoid to be prosecuted? What If someone buys a Rolex watch from his store, then at some point the customer brings the watch to Rolex service center to service the watch then the service center tells the customer that the watch dial is not genuine?
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- 30/9/06
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Now here is my latest noob, it is a great watch out of the box.
No problems with the bracelet, it feels the same as the ARF I had.
Don‘t tell me the subdials suck. Not on this. SEL is ok, not 100 % but 90 % and could be corrected with better spring bars.I already have a franken of this but I got another one for my wife. She wanted to spend the $700 for something else, not for another gen dial. I agree, the bezel could be improved. I also agree, the subdials on the black versions could be better. But for 600 you get a really good watch with a great movement and you could always franken it, not so with the ARF...
and here another one
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No problems with the bracelet, it feels the same as the ARF I had.
Don‘t tell me the subdials suck. Not on this. SEL is ok, not 100 % but 90 % and could be corrected with better spring bars.I already have a franken of this but I got another one for my wife. She wanted to spend the $700 for something else, not for another gen dial. I agree, the bezel could be improved. I also agree, the subdials on the black versions could be better. But for 600 you get a really good watch with a great movement and you could always franken it, not so with the ARF...
and here another one
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- 30/9/06
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Now let us see if our other TD‘s will anounce this noob and ARF V2. I believe it is just Angus with his marketing campagne. But I could be wrong as always.
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Sent from my iPad with Tapatalk