ARF Blue Two Tone Submariner

[2001025]

You have to cut them out individually. Easiest way for me is using curved manicureing scissors. Its a little tedious and painstaking but WELL worth the effort IMO. I am hyper intolerant of scratches and you can't really polish them out on a "gold" rep. I just finished doing another one a couple nights ago. You can't even tell it's on there unless you know it and look closely for it. I only do the clasp and two links either side.

You can buy ready made kits to do this, pre-cut pieces for all PCL surfaces. They are a little pricey for a rep, ~$125 I think. I would definitely do that on a gen if I had one.

Bro, you are right! DIY is not easy. Spent around 30 mins to cut the protective screen.

The result is not as good as I thought. But spending $5 for 6 screens from China. I think the value is okay. I did the same, only did it for the clasp and the two links either side.

For the other members wanted to do this, pay attention when you order your protective screen online, a lot of the screens nowadays are not just plastic, they are glass (a layer of glass and a layer of plastic). When you cut it, it Shredded. I had to carefully remove the glass layer before I can cut the screen. Not easy, I got all my finger screen all around. Good thing is I ordered 6 IPhone X glass screen from china for $5. So now my wife and my iPhone have glass protective screen plus my Bluesy has some protection on the clasp. For $5, I cannot really complain lol

I will practice more and try again!

So much fun....too much fun lol





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[2001025]

I redid the clasp, I think it is a little better.


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[KJ2020]

I redid the clasp, I think it is a little better.


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This stuff is the bomb. Easy to cut and easier to apply (the painstaking part is getting the shapes correct and angle cutting the corners so they don't catch on your sweater sleeve, etc) But it doesn't separate from the back til you wet it and slice it apart with a razor.

https://www.bestskinsever.com/

 

[jnkay]

Anyone notice that the 2824s have a different rehaut shape than the 3135s? Wokkier.

 

[fradic]

Looking like a straight up virgin with those plastic films. lol. Guess theres more pu55y over for the rest of us. LOL

 

[ziggycharly]

Looking like a straight up virgin with those plastic films. lol. Guess theres more pu55y over for the rest of us. LOL

I mean you're the one too awkward to type the word pussy

 

[Itto]

Anyone notice that the 2824s have a different rehaut shape than the 3135s? Wokkier.

Can't say i've noticed that - got some side-by-side pics?
All i​​​​​ have is my approved qc to look at (2824) and i don't see a difference tbh.

 

[stevier88]

ARF V3 and gen DJ 36.

 

[modrichh]

ARF V3 and gen DJ 36.

The Gold from ARF is darker right?

 

[stevier88]

The Gold from ARF is darker right?

The gold is pretty spot on. I was torn between the arf and vrf but vrf gold had more of an orange tinge. Main issues are dial and bezel.

 

[stevier88]

The Gold from ARF is darker right?

The gold is pretty spot on. I was torn between the arf and vrf but vrf gold had more of an orange tinge to it. Main issues for me anyway are the dial and bezel.

 

[stevier88]

Couple of gen pics.

 

[JDM180]

Gold still a touch darker on ARF , Noob nailed it imo but didnt wrap the sel sides.

 

[stevier88]

Gold still a touch darker on ARF , Noob nailed it imo but didnt wrap the sel sides.

Have you got the noob mate? What’s your thoughts on the dial compared to arf?

 

[JDM180]

Have you got the noob mate? What’s your thoughts on the dial compared to arf?

Yeah got or had them all lol , BP,ARF,JF,NOOB,VRF,Gen.

Noob dial is really nice, but I think ARF is better. Colour is pretty much identical they still have a tinge of purple under a very certain light, Print colour is nicer on noob but ARF has it raised where noob is more flat. I've seen gens with flat print too though so maybe not a big deal, nothing in it really.

 

[modrichh]

The gold is pretty spot on. I was torn between the arf and vrf but vrf gold had more of an orange tinge to it. Main issues for me anyway are the dial and bezel.

yeah, vrf gold is too orange. somebody say "piss yellow"
a second version of the VRF wrapped would be nice, maybe they improve the dial and bezel...

 

[stevier88]

Yeah got or had them all lol , BP,ARF,JF,NOOB,VRF,Gen.

Noob dial is really nice, but I think ARF is better. Colour is pretty much identical they still have a tinge of purple under a very certain light, Print colour is nicer on noob but ARF has it raised where noob is more flat. I've seen gens with flat print too though so maybe not a big deal, nothing in it really.

Haha thanks mate. There was a post half way through this thread and the noob dial looked as if it gave off that pale blue from the sunburst especially in sunlight. The arf looks to have that deeper darker blue. I was toying with trying to source a noob dial if it would fit.

arf on left gen on right. Not a million miles away.

 

[ziggycharly]

Stock v3 crystal is pretty impressive

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[CK_223]

This is my first post and I wanted to use it to bring some update into this bluesy-thread and show some new pictures. Especially now as VSF is going to release a bluesy as well in near future (as far as I have read here).

I already own a 116710LN from ARF with the SH3186 CHS movement which was the absolute king when I ordered it at the end of 2019. Nowadays it is not the first choice but mine is still running smoothly (fingers crossed). But as I like the ARF build quality I decided to go with ARF for the Submariner as well. I know that the gold is only plated and will surely not be everlasting but I wanted to give it a try and see how long it is going to last. So I ordered the V3 ARF version with the SH3135 movement.




Some things that I was observing after receiving the watcg

• I was talking with TD before purchase to make sure I get one with plated SEL-sides. Mine has the plated SEL-sides but if you do not specifically look at it you do not see it. So I think I could live with unplated SEL-sides as well.
• My dialh as an error at the SUBMARINER writing at the "E" - I saw it on the QC pictures but approved it as I thought it would not be noticeable on the wrist. And thankfully I am right - no way to see it without some magnification. TD rejected the first watch by themself as the DW had a flaw but the dial writing was better on that. So it seems that this is not a batch thing but only an error of mine.
• I was expecting the gold color to be a little brighter in real life, but it is for sure some matter of lighting that makes some differences. To me it is not too yellowish (but shouldn't be more).
• SELs have almost no gaps - this looks good to my eyes.
• The 166710 bracelet feels a lot more solid than the 116613 bracelet. I know that ARF bracelets are usually very good and I cannot judge if this is normal as I never had a gen submariner in my hand. The clasp is super solid and the glide-lock is amazing.

So overall I am satisfied with the only "drawback" of the bracelet where I do not know if it is normal. Hope this helps some people make their choice. Interested how you guys see it.

 

[Tobel]

This is my first post and I wanted to use it to bring some update into this bluesy-thread and show some new pictures. Especially now as VSF is going to release a bluesy as well in near future (as far as I have read here).

I already own a 116710LN from ARF with the SH3186 CHS movement which was the absolute king when I ordered it at the end of 2019. Nowadays it is not the first choice but mine is still running smoothly (fingers crossed). But as I like the ARF build quality I decided to go with ARF for the Submariner as well. I know that the gold is only plated and will surely not be everlasting but I wanted to give it a try and see how long it is going to last. So I ordered the V3 ARF version with the SH3135 movement.


Some things that I was observing after receiving the watcg

• I was talking with TD before purchase to make sure I get one with plated SEL-sides. Mine has the plated SEL-sides but if you do not specifically look at it you do not see it. So I think I could live with unplated SEL-sides as well.
• My dialh as an error at the SUBMARINER writing at the "E" - I saw it on the QC pictures but approved it as I thought it would not be noticeable on the wrist. And thankfully I am right - no way to see it without some magnification. TD rejected the first watch by themself as the DW had a flaw but the dial writing was better on that. So it seems that this is not a batch thing but only an error of mine.
• I was expecting the gold color to be a little brighter in real life, but it is for sure some matter of lighting that makes some differences. To me it is not too yellowish (but shouldn't be more).
• SELs have almost no gaps - this looks good to my eyes.
• The 166710 bracelet feels a lot more solid than the 116613 bracelet. I know that ARF bracelets are usually very good and I cannot judge if this is normal as I never had a gen submariner in my hand. The clasp is super solid and the glide-lock is amazing.

So overall I am satisfied with the only "drawback" of the bracelet where I do not know if it is normal. Hope this helps some people make their choice. Interested how you guys see it.

Hell of a 1st post mate, thank you. I see that you joined a while ago but that's your 1st message here and it's well informed. Great example for new members of someone doing their homework and taking the time to learn.

Belated welcome to the forum